ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS TEXT

16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_, are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages. 17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_. 18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_. 19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_, and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_ being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the _Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_, proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees, and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little. 20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved _Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice, in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_, too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity, macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of _Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the _Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and _Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since _Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter. 21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_ are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring till _June_. 22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters, to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife _Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_. 23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho' otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_, are excellent for the _Scorbute_. Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near _Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots, or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing. 24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho' the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in _Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_. 25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold, profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_. Eschalot. See _Onions_. 26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain; especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_, and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call _Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_. 27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their _Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_, sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange, Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome _Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c. 28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_ and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in _Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler _Roccombo_. _Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_. Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_. 29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in _Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast, and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_. 30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for _Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions. 31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran, Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in _Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy. 32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges. 33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since _Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See _Onion_. 34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_, (to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_. It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals, _Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was) from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great [20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor [21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_. How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_ store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual _Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_; for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of _Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or _Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf, Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest, there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant _Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of. 35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or bitter. See _Orange_. 36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the _Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvæ folium Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_ and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table: The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvæ salubres corpori_, approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_, by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than _Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_, that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_, tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with _Butter_. Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See _Blitum_. 37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho' an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for _Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours. There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with _Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo. Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary _Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are very delicate. 38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the _Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone (as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little _Sugar_. 39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terræ_, by _Porphyry Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_ Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French, Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen, they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Cæsarian Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Brôma theôn], a Dainty fit for the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_ deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annæus Serenus_, and several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of this suspicious Dainty) _Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats _Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution, [Greek: Barê pnigoenta mukêtôn], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenæus_ reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient warning. Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about _London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_, and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl, and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_ purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord _Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or _Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down. But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other _Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr. _Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich, airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce, they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed _Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in _France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other Experiments. 40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of _Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable _Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids