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An excellent plan is to make an A-shaped trough of two boards to turn
the rain, on top of which a greater or less amount of straw, leaves or
litter may be piled, if needed.
Mice sometimes do considerable damage to stored celery, but are more
easily controlled in short trenches than in long ones.
Small amounts of celery may be stored in cellars, in boxes a foot wide
and a foot deep, with damp sand in the bottom. No soil is needed
between the plants. The coolest and darkest part of the cellar is best
for storage.
=Diseases.=--Celery diseases are preventable and insect attacks are
few. For blight, kainit is recommended, both in the seed-bed and open
field. For rust, the Bordeaux mixture is advised. Hollow-stemmed or
pithy celery is the result of poor stock or improper soil, and can be
avoided by the use of more manure and more water.
=New Process.=--The method of growing celery in highly enriched soil,
with plants set 6 or 8 inches apart both ways, is quite feasible. The
plants stand so close as to blanch each other to some extent, but the
system has never attracted general favor. A great deal of water is
required. Cultivation is possible only when the plants are small.
=Profits.=--The use of celery is obviously on the increase, but the
demand is for a first-class article. The cash results may be set at
anywhere from $200 to $500 per acre. The actual net profits of
well-conducted operations are considerable.
WATER CRESS.
Water cress, a vegetable closely allied to several other edible
cresses, is used in very large quantities in all city restaurants. It
is a much-esteemed winter relish, and is mostly served with every one
of the thousands of beefsteak orders daily filled in the great eating
houses and lunch rooms. The demand for it seems to be on the increase.
[Illustration: Water Cress.]
Water cress is of the easiest culture. It can be grown in the soil of
a forcing house under glass, and is extensively produced in this way
by market gardeners.
The cheapest method is to grow it in running water, preferably near a
spring head; and many such situations are available to farmers. Flat
beds, made of loam, gravel, or sand, covered with 3 or 4 inches of
warm, spring water, will yield great quantities of water cress in
early spring; and the use of a few sash will keep the cress in growth
during the winter. The cress should be cut frequently, as the young
shoots are most succulent and tender.
For market purposes the water cress is tied in bunches, and retailed at
from 3 to 10 cents per bunch, or packed in pint boxes, leaves uppermost,
and retailed for about 10 cents per box. These are winter and early
spring prices. Water cress culture is profitable in favored locations.
CUCUMBER.
The cucumber market is not easily over-supplied, but the pickling tub
should stand ready to receive all cucumbers not sold in a fresh
condition.
For field culture, good ground must be selected, and marked out with a
plow, 4 x 4 feet; or, a little wider, if the soil is strong. At least
one shovelful of well-rotted manure is dropped in every hill, and
mixed with the soil, and a dozen seeds planted, to be thinned out
finally to three or four plants. It is better to have extra plants, on
account of the attacks of the striped beetle.
The cucumber belongs to a botanic family which is naturally tender,
and the seeds should not be sown until the soil is quite warm. For
farm work, the planting season is the latter part of May and the whole
of June; and even July is a suitable month, if the soil can be
irrigated. It will require two pounds of seed for an acre.
The variety sown should depend on the purpose in view; but in all
commercial operations, well-known and thoroughly tested sorts should
be chosen. Shallow cultivation is recommended.
If an early market is to be supplied with cucumbers, the seeds may be
started under glass, on bits of inverted sod or in small boxes, and
set in the open ground on the arrival of settled warm weather; but the
farmer will usually find it most profitable to sow the seeds where the
plants are to remain.
The most serious enemy of the cucumber vine is the striped beetle,
which attacks the young plant and frequently ruins it. The remedy is
air-slaked lime, or soot, or sifted coal ashes, or wood ashes diluted
with dry road dust. The best preventive is salt or kainit, used in the
hills. The true plan is to have strong, vigorous plants, which, as a
rule, will resist and outgrow the striped beetle, and be not greatly
injured by its attacks. There is a blight which sometimes destroys the
cucumber vine, apparently the result of weakness following a prolonged
drouth.
The vine of the cucumber must be kept in vigorous growth, not only by
cultivation and a sufficient water-supply, but by care in removing all
the fruit as soon as formed, for, if the seeds be permitted to
mature, the vine will quickly perish. It is the purpose of the vine's
existence to produce ripe seeds, and it will make repeated and
long-continued efforts to accomplish this end. In gathering the
cucumbers, it is important to avoid injuring the vine. Some growers
use a knife; others break the stem by a dexterous twist, without
injuring the vine in the least.
[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey Pickle Cucumber.]
It requires 300 cucumbers (more or less) of fair pickling size to make
a bushel, and it is estimated that an acre will produce from 100 to
200 bushels, or even more. When the pickles are pulled while quite
small, the number runs up to 125,000 per acre; and the pickle
factories in some cases make their estimates on a yield of 75,000 per
acre. The price is variable, but often quite profitable.
CUCUMBER.--For planting in the South to ship to Northern markets
use Improved Arlington White Spine. Giant of Pera is a fine table
sort. For pickling, plant Johnson & Stokes' Perfected Jersey
Pickle. For description see our "Garden and Farm Manual."
=Downy Mildew.=--A disease which lately threatened to destroy the
business of growing pickles in New Jersey and elsewhere, the downy
mildew of the cucumber, can be fully overcome by spraying the vines
with Bordeaux mixture. It requires six or seven applications, at
intervals of a week or ten days, to conquer this comparatively new
disease. Downy mildew is a fungous trouble affecting the leaves and
destroying the further usefulness of the vine. A recent New York
experiment showed a yield of $173 worth of pickles per acre under
spraying as against complete failure where the Bordeaux mixture was
not used. The cost of spraying was $9.50 per acre, leaving $163.50 per
acre as the value of the crop saved by the operation.
EGG PLANT.
The advisability of growing egg plants in farm gardening operations is
a question of location. On a suitable soil, near a good market, the
operation will be a profitable one, if rightly managed. The egg plant
is a tender vegetable, botanically allied to both the tomato and the
potato, but less hardy than either, especially when young. For this
reason it is best to delay sowing the seed, even in hot-beds, until
cold weather is past, for the tender seedlings never fully recover
from a chill or set-back. Indeed, for the farm gardener the month of
May is early enough to sow the seed under glass, for this plant grows
with great rapidity in a warm soil, and May-sown seed not infrequently
yields plants that outstrip those sown a full month earlier.
[Illustration: New Jersey Improved Large Purple Smooth Stem Egg Plant.]
The egg plant demands a richer soil than either the potato or tomato.
It also asks for more water. It is a rank feeder. A good stimulant, if
rotted manure cannot be had, is nitrate of soda at the rate of 400
pounds to the acre.
The farm gardener will do well to consider his market before engaging
in the production of the egg plant on an extensive scale, for it is a
perishable product. It bears shipment well, but its use is mainly
limited to consumption while fresh. It may command a very high price
at some seasons of the year and at other times be practically
unsalable at any price, owing to an over-supply.
If egg-plant seed be sown under glass in early May, and carefully
protected against cool weather (especially at night), the young plants
will be ready to transplant before the end of the month and large
enough for the open field in June. They should be set in rows 4 feet
apart, and about 3 feet apart in the row. Set at these distances, an
acre of ground would accommodate about 3,500 plants.
The enemy of the egg plant, in growth, is the potato bug, which must
be hand-picked or poisoned. There is a rot which causes the fruit to
drop from the stem before reaching maturity. This rot is a fungus, and
the Bordeaux mixture is recommended for it. The blight which sometimes
affects the foliage is in part at least caused by cold weather, and
for this there is no remedy, except late planting.
Every healthy plant should produce from two to six or more full-sized
fruits, and it is therefore easy to calculate that an acre's product
under favorable circumstances may be very large.
EGG PLANT.--There is nothing equal to the New Jersey Improved
Large Purple Smooth Stem for the use of farm gardeners. For
description, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."
[Illustration: Johnson & Stokes' Imperial, or Long Standing Kale.]
KALE OR BORECOLE.
Kale, of which there are many varieties, is a headless cabbage,
closely allied to such vegetables as Brussels sprouts, collards, etc.
It is one of the most hardy of vegetables, and in this latitude it
will live over winter in the open ground, with only straw or litter as
a protection. If cut for use when frozen it should be thawed out in
cold water. The kales are among the most delicately flavored cabbages.
Some of them are of such ornamental shape as to be full worthy of
cultivation for decorative purposes. The height varies from 1 to 2
feet, and the colors include both greens, dark purples and
intermediate shades.
Kale demands a rich, deep soil. The seed should be sown in a border or
seed-bed, and transplanted to the open field and set in rows, after the
manner of cabbage. It is largely and profitably grown in the South for
shipment to the great Northern markets. Where farmers are situated near
centres of population where kale is in demand, its culture will be found
profitable, as it requires even less labor than cabbage. It is planted
both in spring and autumn. The former crop is for autumn consumption and
the latter crop is carried over winter after the manner of spinach,
protected by a light covering of some sort of litter.
KALE.--For the South, we recommend Extra Dwarf Green Curled
Scotch; for the North, Johnson & Stokes' New Imperial. See our
"Garden and Farm Manual" for descriptions.
LETTUCE.
In some sections, especially in the South, lettuce can be grown with
profit by farm gardeners. Depending on the latitude, the seed may be
planted from autumn until spring. The plants are usually sheltered and
headed under glass, or under muslin-covered sash, and are sent North
in ventilated barrels.
The lettuce is naturally a cool-weather plant, and its culture is
easy. The seed is cheap and it germinates quickly. Well-grown lettuce
always commands good prices. It is usual to start the seeds in a
border or under a frame, and to prick out the plants into more roomy
quarters as soon as they are large enough to handle. In a few weeks
after transplanting, in good growing weather, they are headed ready
for market. Good soil, abundance of moisture and free ventilation are
essentials in lettuce production.
[Illustration]
In some parts of the North lettuce culture would be found profitable
by farmers in the summer season, for there are varieties well adapted
to high temperature, provided good soil and sufficient water be
furnished. There is not a month in the year when lettuce is not
demanded for use in salads, and this demand is likely to increase.
LETTUCE.--For the South, we especially recommend Reichner's Early
White Butter, Big Boston and New Treasure; for the North, New
Sensation, Mammoth Salamander and Hornberger's Dutch Butter.
Please see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."
MELONS.
Melon culture belongs on the farm rather than in the small market
garden, on account of the large space occupied by the growing vines.
An acre of ground will accommodate only about 450 watermelon hills (at
10 feet each way) or about 1,200 muskmelon or cantaloupe hills (6 feet
each way), and hence the necessity for large areas of ground for the
cultivation of these crops.
The requirements of the various melons are quite similar. Broken sod
ground or any green crop turned down favors their growth, and
well-rotted stable manure in the hill is the best known stimulant. All
the melons are tender, and are suited only to warm-weather growth, and
this fact must be remembered in sowing the seed. Light alluvial soil
near rivers or streams is adapted to melon growth, and many an old
meadow now weedy and unprofitable might be used to advantage for one
of these crops.
[Illustration: New Black-eyed Susan Watermelon.]
=The Watermelon.=--For cash-producing purposes the best watermelon is
a large one, with a hard rind. It must have a dark pink or red centre
and must be a good shipper. It should weigh thirty to forty pounds,
and there should be 900 to 1,000 first-class melons to the acre.
The best melon for family use or for a strictly retail trade is a
medium-sized variety, which has a thin rind, pink or red flesh and
extra sweetness, weighing from twenty to thirty pounds.
The preparation of the ground has already been suggested. Two shovels
of manure should go into each hill. The planting date is May in this
latitude; or as soon as the ground is thoroughly warm. Four pounds of
seed per acre will be required. But one plant per hill is allowed to
grow. The end of the main shoots should be pinched off, to encourage
branching and flowering.
[Illustration]
Cultivation should be thorough. Fungous diseases can be controlled by
means of the Bordeaux mixture, except that it is difficult to reach
the under side of the leaves. To prevent sunburn on melons, some
growers sow buckwheat when the vines are in blossom, and thus secure a
partial shade by the time the fruit is large enough to be injured by
the sun. Generally, no protection is necessary.
At $10 or $15 per hundred, the average wholesale price at Philadelphia,
watermelon culture is profitable. Early prices are higher.
WATER MELONS.--For shipping--Johnson's Dixie, Blue Gem, Duke
Jones, Sweet Heart. For home market--Black-Eyed Susan, Florida
Favorite, Kentucky Wonder, McIver's Wonderful Sugar. For
descriptions, see "Johnson & Stokes' Garden and Farm Manual."
=Citron.=--This small round melon is cultivated in all respects as the
watermelon, but being smaller the hills may be closer. It is used in
making preserves. The name citron is frequently applied to certain of
the cantaloupes.
=Cantaloupes or Muskmelons.=--It is a matter of choice whether the
green-fleshed or red-fleshed sorts are grown; or whether the variety
be large or small. The sorts covered with strongly webbed or netted
markings are in high favor for shipping to distant points, as they
carry well. Flavor is in part at least a matter of temperature and
sunshine. Cantaloupes may be nicely ripened by removing them from the
vines and storing in dry, warm rooms.
The usual planting distance is from 4-1/2 to 6 feet, in hills
containing rotted manure. Compost, made of hen manure, is sometimes
used in the hill, well mixed with the soil. Good cantaloupes are
always in active demand.
MUSK MELONS.--Early sorts for shipping--McCleary's Improved Jenny
Lind, Netted Beauty, The Captain, Champion Market, Improved
Netted Gem, Anne Arundel. Late sorts--The Princess, Johnson &
Stokes' Superb, etc. See "Garden and Farm Manual" for
descriptions.
[Illustration: McCleary's Improved Early Jenny Lind Muskmelon.]
=Enemies.=--In addition to the fungous diseases of the watermelon and
cantaloupe, which are best treated with Bordeaux mixture, all melons
are sometimes badly troubled with an aphis called the melon louse. The
remedy is whale-oil soap--a pound in six gallons of water; or kerosene
emulsion. The latter is made by dissolving half a pound of soft soap
in one gallon of water; then adding two gallons of kerosene, churning
violently; then diluting with ten or twelve gallons of water. This
emulsion is put upon the melon vines in the form of a spray, and is
one of the best insecticides known. It is to be used on all sucking
insects, like lice and squash bugs. Biting insects are easily killed
with Paris green--one pound in 100 pounds of flour or plaster, or in
150 gallons of water.
[Illustration: Improved Early Netted Gem Muskmelon (Rose Gem Strain).]
Where the land is suited to melon culture, in any part of the country,
the farm gardener will find no more satisfactory or remunerative crop.
MUSHROOMS.
Under certain favored circumstances the mushroom may be grown as a farm
gardener's crop. The requisites are horse manure and a dark cellar, cave
or vault. If the manure be available and a suitable apartment at hand,
the growing of mushrooms may be taken up for winter work.
[Illustration: A Bed of Mushrooms from English Milltrack Spawn.]
There are many ways of growing mushrooms, and they can be produced in
any situation where a steady temperature of 60 deg. can be maintained. A
simple method is to prepare a bed consisting of horse manure and loam,
three parts by measure of the former and one of the latter, the manure
having been somewhat fermented and sweetened by allowing it to heat
and turning it several times. A compact bed a foot deep is made. This
bed will first heat and then cool. As it cools, when at 80 deg. or 85 deg. an
inch below the surface, bits of brick spawn the size of a hen's egg
are inserted about 9 inches apart.
The bed must not be immediately covered, or the temperature will rise
sufficiently to kill the spawn. In ten days, more or less, as shown by
a thermometer, this danger will be past, and the bed should receive a
coating of good loam an inch deep. No water is to be applied until
after the bed is in full bearing.
It is assumed that the temperature of the room or cellar has been
uniformly 60 deg., day and night; that the bed has not been made where it
could become water-soaked; that it is sufficiently moist, yet not wet;
and that no draft of air has passed over the surface in a way either
to reduce the temperature of the bed itself or to dry the soil upon
the surface. If these conditions cannot be maintained, either by a
specially favorable place or by means of covering the bed with litter,
it is better to let mushrooms alone.
The crop should appear in six or eight weeks, and should last two
months, the total product being from one-half to one pound per square
foot. The cash price is from 50 to 75 cents per pound in the large
cities; and the crop is sufficiently profitable to warrant the losses
which beginners so commonly experience. These losses are the result of
carelessness or ignorance in the matter of details.
The usual sources of failure are poorly prepared beds, the medium
being either too wet or too dry; frequent changes of temperature;
improper use of water; and, lastly, poor or stale spawn.
Mushrooms are packed in small baskets lined with paper, and carefully
covered to prevent evaporation. A five-pound package is a favorite
shipping size.
ONIONS.
The onion is a national crop; as widely though not quite as
extensively grown as the potato. It is available as a money crop for
the farm gardener.
=Choice of Soil.=--Heavy, stiff clay land is to be avoided. Sand and
gravel dry out too quickly. Stony land renders good culture difficult.
The best soil for onions is a deep, rich, mellow loam. Soils which
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