FARM MECHANICS: MACHINERY AND ITS USE TO SAVE HAND LABOR ON THE FARM
TEXT
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skill is required to properly connect the building and elevating
machinery so that the two will work smoothly together. There are certain
features about the building that must conform to the requirements and
peculiarities of the elevating machinery. The grain and ear corn are
both carried up to a point from which they will travel by gravity to any
part of the building. The building requires great structural strength in
some places, but the material may be very light in others. Hence, the
necessity of understanding both building and machinery in order to meet
all of the necessary technical requirements.
CHAPTER V
WORKING THE SOIL
IMPORTANCE OF PLOWING
[Illustration: Figure 132.--Heavy Disk Plow. A strong four-horse disk
implement for breaking stumpy ground or to tear tough sod into bits
before turning under with a moldboard.]
Plowing is a mechanical operation that deals with physics, chemistry,
bacteriology and entomology. The soil is the farmer's laboratory; his
soil working implements are his mechanical laboratory appliances. A high
order of intelligence is required to merge one operation into the next
to take full advantage of the assistance offered by nature. The object
of plowing and cultivation is to improve the mechanical condition of the
soil, to retain moisture, to kill insects and to provide a suitable home
for the different kinds of soil bacteria.
There are aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, also nitrogen-gathering
bacteria and nitrifying bacteria which are often loosely referred to as
azotobacter species. Few of us are on intimate terms with any of them,
but some of us have had formal introductions through experiments and
observation.
[Illustration: Figure 133.--Sulky Plow. This is a popular type of riding
plow. It is fitted with a rolling coulter.]
THE MECHANICS OF PLOWING
_Walking Plow._--The draft of a walking plow may be increased or
diminished by the manner of hitch. It is necessary to find the direct
line of draft between the work performed and the propelling force. The
clevis in the two-horse doubletree, or the three-horse evener and the
adjusting clevis in the end of the plow-beam with the connecting link
will permit a limited adjustment. The exact direction that this line
takes will prove out in question. The walking plow should not have a
tendency to run either in or out, neither too deep nor too shallow. For
the proper adjustment as to width and depth of furrow, the plow should
follow the line of draft in strict obedience to the pull so that it
will keep to the furrow on level ground a distance of several feet
without guidance from the handles. In making the adjustment it is first
necessary to see that the plow itself is in good working order. All
cutting edges such as share, coulter or jointer must be reasonably sharp
and the land slip in condition as the makers intended.
[Illustration: Figure 134.--Disk Plow. Less power is required to plow
with a disk, but it is a sort of cut and cover process. The disk digs
trenches narrow at the bottom. There are ridges between the little
trenches that are not worked.]
[Illustration: Figure 135.--Three-Horse and Four-Horse Eveners. This
kind of evener hitches the horses closer to the load than some others
and they are easier to handle than the spread out kinds. The four-horse
rig requires the best horses in the middle.]
All plows should have a leather pocket on the side of the beam to carry
a file. A 12-inch bastard file with a good handle is the most
satisfactory implement for sharpening the cutting edges of a plow in the
fields. A good deal depends on the character of the soil and its
condition of dryness, but generally speaking, it pays to do a little
filing after plowing a half mile of furrow. If the horses are doing
their duty, a little rest at the end of the half mile is well earned.
The plowman can put in the time to advantage with the file and the next
half mile will go along merrily in consequence. No farmer would continue
to chop wood all day without whetting his axe, but, unfortunately,
plowmen often work from morning till night without any attempt to keep
the cutting edges of their plows in good working order.
_Riding Plow._--The riding plow in lifting and turning the furrow slice
depends a good deal on the wheels. The action of the plow is that of a
wedge with the power pushing the point, the share and the moldboard
between the furrow slices and the land side and the furrow bottom. There
is the same friction between the moldboard and the furrow slice as in
the case of the walking plow, but the wheels are intended to materially
reduce the pressure on the furrow bottom and against the land side. Plow
wheels are intended to relieve the draft in this respect because wheels
roll much easier than the plow bottom can slide with the weight of the
work on top. The track made in the bottom of the furrow with the walking
plow shows plainly the heavy pressure of the furrow slice on the
moldboard by the mark of the slip. To appreciate the weight the slip
carries, an interesting experiment may be performed by loading the
walking plow with weights sufficient to make the same kind of a mark
when the plow is not turning a furrow.
One advantage in riding plows in addition to the relief of such a load
is less packing of the furrow bottom. On certain soils when the moisture
is just sufficient to make the subsoil sticky, a certain portion of the
furrow bottom is cemented by plow pressure so that it becomes impervious
to the passage of moisture either up or down. The track of a plow wheel
is less injurious.
[Illustration: Figure 136.--Three-Section, Spike-Tooth Harrow. The
harrow is made straight, but the hitch is placed over to one side to
give each tooth a separate line of travel.]
[Illustration: Figure 137.--Harrow Sled Long Enough to Hold a
Four-Section Harrow.]
Plow wheels should stand at the proper angle to the pressure with
especial reference to the work performed. Wheels should be adjusted with
an eye single to the conditions existing in the furrow. Some wheel plows
apparently are especially built to run light like a wagon above ground
regardless of the underground work required of them.
[Illustration: Figure 138.--Corn Cultivator. A one-row, riding-disk
cultivator. The ridges are smoothed by the spring scrapers to leave an
even surface to prevent evaporation.]
Axles should hang at right angles to the line of lift so accurately as
to cause the wheels to wear but lightly on the ends of the hubs.
Mistakes in adjustment show in the necessity of keeping a supply of
washers on hand to replace the ones that quickly wear thin.
In this respect a good deal depends on the sand-bands at the ends of the
hubs. Plow wheels are constantly lifting gritty earth and dropping it on
the hubs. There is only one successful way to keep sand out of the
journals and that is by having the hubs, or hub ferrules, extend well
beyond the bearings. Plow wheel hub extensions should reach two inches
beyond the journal both at the large end of the hub and at the nut or
linchpin end. Some plow wheels cut so badly that farmers consider oil a
damage and they are permitted to run dry. This is not only very wasteful
of expensive iron but the wheels soon wabble to such an extent that they
no longer guide the plow, in which case the draft may be increased
enormously.
[Illustration: Figure 139.--A Combination Riding and Walking Cultivator,
showing fenders attached to protect young plants the first time through.
The two bull tongues shown are for use in heavy soils or when deeper
digging is necessary.]
_Scotch Plows._--When the long, narrow Scotch sod plows are exhibited at
American agricultural fairs they attract a good deal of attention and no
small amount of ridicule from American farmers because of the six or
seven inch furrows they are intended to turn. In this country we are in
too much of a hurry to spend all day plowing three-fourths of an acre of
ground. Intensive farming is not so much of an object with us as the
quantity of land put under cultivation.
Those old-fashioned Scotch plows turn a furrow about two-thirds of the
way over, laying the sod surface at an angle of about 45 deg. to the bottom
of the furrow. The sharp comb cut by the coulter and share stands
upright so that a sod field when plowed is marked in sharp ridges six or
seven inches apart, according to the width of the furrow. Edges of sod
show in the bottoms of the corrugations between these little furrow
ridges.
When the rains come the water is held in these grooves and it finds its
way down the whole depth of the furrow slice carrying air with it and
moistening every particle of trash clear to the bottom of the furrow.
Such conditions are ideal for the work of the different forms of
bacteria to break down plant fibre contained in the roots and trash and
work it into humus, which is in turn manipulated by other forms of soil
bacteria to produce soil water which is the only food of growing plants.
_Jointer Plows._--American plow makers also have recognized the
necessity of mixing humus with soil in the act of plowing. To facilitate
the process and at the same time turn a wide furrow, the jointer does
fairly good work when soil conditions are suitable. The jointer is a
little plow which takes the place of the coulter and is attached to the
plow-beam in the same manner. The jointer turns a little furrow one inch
or two inches deep and the large plow following after turns a
twelve-inch or fourteen-inch furrow slice flat over, throwing the little
jointer furrow in the middle of the furrow bottom in such a way that the
big furrow breaks over the smaller furrow.
If the work is well done, cracks as wide as a man's hand and from three
to five inches deep are left all over the field. These cracks lead air
and moisture to rot the trash below. This is a much quicker way of
doing a fairly good job of plowing. Such plows loosen the soil and
furnish the conditions required by nature; and they may be operated with
much less skill than the old-fashioned narrow-furrowed Scotch plows.
Good plowing requires first that the soil be in proper condition to
plow, neither too dry nor too wet, but no man can do good plowing
without the proper kind of plow to fit the soil he is working with.
PLOWING BY TRACTOR
Under present conditions farm tractors are not intended to replace horse
power entirely but to precede horses to smooth the rough places that
horses may follow with the lighter machines to add the finishing
touches. Light tractors are being made, and they are growing in
popularity, but the real business of the farm tractor is to do the heavy
lugging--the work that kills horses and delays seeding until the growing
season has passed. The actual power best suited to the individual farm
can only be determined by the nature of the land and the kind of
farming.
In the Middle West where diversified farming is practiced, the 8-16 and
the 10-20 sizes seem to be the most satisfactory, and this is without
regard to the size of the farm. The preponderance of heavy work will
naturally dictate the buying of a tractor heavier than a 10-20. The
amount of stationary work is a factor. In certain communities heavy farm
tractors are made to earn dividends by running threshing machines after
harvest, silo fillers in the fall and limestone crushers in the winter.
Here is a classified list of jobs the medium size farm tractor is good
for:
Clearing the Land--pulling up bushes by the roots, tearing out hedges,
pulling stumps, grubbing, pulling stones.
Preparing Seed Bed and Seeding--plowing, disking, crushing clods,
pulling a land plane, rolling, packing, drilling, harrowing.
Harvesting--mowing, pulling grain binders, pulling potato digger.
Belt Work--hay baling, corn shelling, heavy pumping for irrigation,
grinding feed, threshing, clover hulling, husking and shredding, silo
filling, stone crushing.
Road Work--grading, dragging, leveling, ditching, hauling crops.
Miscellaneous--running portable sawmill, stretching wire fencing, ditch
digging, manure spreading.
Generally speaking, however, the most important farm tractor work is
preparing the seed-bed thoroughly and quickly while the soil and weather
conditions are the best. And the tractor's ability to work all day and
all night at such times is one of its best qualifications.
To plow one square mile, or 640 acres, with a walking plow turning a
twelve-inch furrow, a man and team must walk 5,280 miles. The gang-plow
has always been considered a horse killer, and, when farmers discovered
that they could use oil power to save their horses, many were quick to
make the change.
It requires approximately 10 horsepower hours to turn an acre of land
with horses. At a speed of two miles, a team with one plow in ten hours
will turn two acres. To deliver the two horsepower required to do this
work, they must travel 176 feet per minute and exert a continuous pull
of 375 pounds or 187.5 pounds per horse.
One horsepower equals a pull of 33,000 pounds, moved one foot per
minute. Two-mile speed equals two times 5,280 or 10,560 feet per hour,
or 176 feet per minute. Sixty-six thousand divided by 176 equals 375
foot pounds pull per minute. One horsepower is absorbed in 88 feet of
furrow.
Horse labor costs, according to Government figures, 12-1/2 cents per
hour per horse. On this basis ten hours' work will be $1.25, which is
the average daily cost of each horse. An average Illinois diversified
farm of 160 acres would be approximately as follows: Fifty acres of
corn, 30 acres of oats and wheat, 20 acres of hay, 60 acres of rough
land, pasture, orchard, building and feed lots.
This average farm supports six work horses or mules and one colt.
According to figures taken from farm work reports submitted by many
different corn belt farmers, the amount of horse-work necessary to do
this cropping would figure out as follows:
Fifty acres of corn land for plowing, disking, harrowing, planting,
cultivating and harvesting would amount to a total of 1,450 horsepower
hours. Thirty acres of wheat would require a total of 330 horsepower
hours. Twenty acres of hay would require 110 horsepower hours. In round
figures, 1,900 horsepower hours at 12-1/2 cents would amount to $237.50.
Elaborate figures have been worked out theoretically to show that this
work can be done by an 8-16 farm tractor in 27-3/4 days at a cost for
kerosene fuel and lubricating oil of $1.89 per day. Adding interest,
repairs and depreciation, brings this figure up to about $4.00 per day,
or a total of $111.00 for the job. No account is kept of man power in
caring for either the horses or the tractor. The actual man labor on the
job, however, figures 12-1/3 days less for the tractor than for horses.
We should remember that actual farm figures are used for the cost of
horse work. Such figures are not available for tractor work.
The cost of plowing with a traction engine depends upon so many factors
that it is difficult to make any definite statement. It depends upon the
condition of the ground, size of the tractor, the number of plows
pulled, and the amount of fuel used. An 8-16 horsepower tractor, for
instance, burning from 15 to 20 gallons of low grade kerosene per ten
hour day and using one gallon of lubricating oil, costs about $1.90 per
ten hours work. Pulling two 14-inch plows and traveling 20 miles per
day, the tractor will plow 5.6 acres at a fuel and an oil cost of about
30 cents per acre. Pulling three 14-inch plows, it will turn 8.4 acres
at a cost for fuel and oil of about 20 cents an acre.
The kind and condition of soil is an important factor in determining the
tractor cost of plowing. Comparison between the average horse cost and
the average tractor cost suggests very interesting possibilities in
favor of tractor plowing under good management.
Aside from the actual cost in dollars we should also remember that no
horse gang can possibly do the quality of work that can be accomplished
by an engine gang. Anxiety to spare the team has cut a big slice off the
profits of many a farmer. He has often plowed late on account of hard
ground, and he has many times allowed a field to remain unplowed on
account of worn-out teams. Under normal conditions, late plowing never
produces as good results as early plowing. Many a farmer has fed and
harnessed by the light of the lantern, gone to the field and worked his
team hard to take advantage of the cool of the morning. With the
approach of the hot hours of midday, the vicious flies sapping the
vitality from his faithful team, he has eased up on the work or quit the
job.
In using the tractor for plowing, there are none of these distressing
conditions to be taken into consideration, nothing to think of but the
quality of work done. It is possible to plow deep without thought of the
added burden. Deep plowing may or may not be advisable. But where the
soil will stand it, deep plowing at the proper time of year, and when
done with judgment, holds moisture better and provides more plant food.
The pull power required to plow different soils varies from about three
pounds per square inch of furrow for light sand up to twenty pounds per
square inch of furrow for gumbo. The draft of a plow is generally
figured from clover sod, which averages about seven pounds per square
inch. Suppose a plow rig has two 14-inch bottoms, and the depth to be
plowed is six inches. A cross section of each plow is therefore 14 by 6
inches, or 84 square inches. Twice this for two bottoms is 168 square
inches. Since, in sandy soil, the pressure per square inch is three
pounds, therefore 168 times 3 pounds equals 504 pounds, the draft in
sandy soil. 168 times 7 pounds equals 1,176 pounds, the draft in clover
sod. 168 times 8 pounds equals 1,344 pounds, the draft in clay sod.
The success of crop growing depends upon the way the seed-bed is
prepared. The final preparation of the seed-bed can never be thoroughly
well done unless the ground is properly plowed to begin with. It is not
sufficient to root the ground over or to crowd it to one side but the
plow must really turn the furrow slice in a uniform, systematic manner
and lay it bottom side uppermost to receive the beneficial action of
the air, rain and sunshine.
The moldboard of a plow must be smooth in order to properly shed the
earth freely to make an easy turn-over. The shape of the shear and the
forward part of the moldboard is primarily that of a wedge, but the roll
or upper curve of the moldboard changes according to soil texture and
the width and depth of furrow to be turned. Moldboards also differ in
size and shape, according to the kind of furrow to be turned. Sometimes
in certain soils a narrow solid furrow with a comb on the upper edge is
preferable. In other soils a cracked or broken furrow slice works the
best. When working our lighter soils a wide furrow turned flat over on
top of a jointer furrow breaks the ground into fragments with wide
cracks or openings reaching several inches down. Between these extremes
there are many modifications made for the particular type or texture of
the soil to be plowed. We can observe the effect that a rough, or badly
scratched, or poorly shaped moldboard has on any kind of soil,
especially when passing from gravelly soils to clay. In soil that
contains the right amount of moisture, when a plow scours all the time,
the top of the furrow slice always has a glazed or shiny appearance.
This shows that the soil is slipping off the moldboard easily. In places
where the plow does not scour the ground is pushed to one side and
packed or puddled on the underside instead of being lifted and turned as
it should be. A field plowed with a defective moldboard will be full of
these places. Such ground cannot have the life to bring about a
satisfactory bacteria condition necessary to promote the rapid plant
growth that proper plowing gives it.
Cultivated sandy soils are becoming more acid year after year. We are
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