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for processing in different factories. Some packers process as low as
170 degrees F., it is said, while others use a temperature very close to
the boiling point. In some plants pint bottles receive only a 30–minute
process, while in others they get over an hour.
The proper time to use depends upon the temperature that can be
maintained at the filling machine, and the rapidity with which the
processing can be done after the filling. If the packer can hold his
catsup around 180 degrees at the filler, and is so equipped, either with
continuous pasteurizers or stationary tanks, that he can process
immediately, an hour is ample time for pints, and 45 minutes is
sufficient for half-pints; other sizes accordingly. If, however, the
temperature of the catsup at the filler often falls to 170 degrees or
below, and the catsup is filled faster than it can be processed, so that
at times much of it must stand for an hour before it can get in the
process tanks, 15 minutes additional for each size bottle had better be
added to the above.
This may seem to some packers like a long time. All one has to do to
convince himself that it is not too long is to take one of those
thermometers which are made especially for determining temperatures at
the center of the bottle, and put it in a bottle of catsup while it is
being processed, watch the mercury rise, and note the time it takes to
bring the center of the bottle to the temperature of the water
surrounding it. You will find that if the water surrounding a pint
bottle is 200 degrees, and the temperature at the center of the bottle
is 160 degrees, it will take just about an hour to bring the catsup at
the center of the bottle up to 200 degrees.
As to the proper temperature, I do not see why as high a temperature as
is possible without breaking the bottles should not be used. Why some
packers process at 170 degrees or 180 degrees I do not know. They
certainly have not carefully investigated the effect of their
processing. The temperature I prefer is six degrees below boiling. At
sea level this would be 206 degrees. This temperature will not break the
bottles, but the steam pipes entering the tank should be so arranged and
perforated that there will be as even a distribution of steam as
possible. If these pipes are not properly arranged, there is apt to be
as much as 6 degrees variation in the temperature at different parts of
the tank.
Several years ago I made a large number of tests to determine the number
of micro-organisms that remained alive in bottled catsup after
processing at 206 degrees F., as compared with the number which remained
alive in catsup bottled from the same batch and processed at 200 degrees
F. for the same length of time. The difference was surprising. I
expected some difference, but not nearly as great as was shown by the
tests. That which was processed at 200 degrees for an hour contained
quite a few living molds, yeasts, and bacteria per cubic centimeter.
This was shown by plating out samples bacteriologically on culture
media—the media used being dextrose agar and wart agar. The catsup from
the same batch processed one hour at 206 degrees contained scarcely any
living micro-organisms at all per cubic centimeter. This test was
repeated a number of times with the same result each time. These
micro-organisms may have been in the form of spores in the catsup, but
developed into the vegetative forms of molds, yeasts, and bacteria when
placed in the culture media.
Temperature Controlling and Recording Devices
The process tanks should all be equipped with temperature controllers
and recording thermometers. The controller holds the steam at the right
point, not allowing the temperature to vary more than 2 degrees, if it
is a good make. Several years ago it was impossible to find a
temperature controller which operated without compressed air that would
hold the temperature closer than a variation of 10 degrees, which is too
wide a variation for catsup pasteurization. The compressed air
controllers worked very well but required an air compressor where the
pressure must be held within certain limits, and air pipes to connect
with all the controllers. Some plants did not have the air equipment,
and in cases where it was put in the pipes gave more or less trouble due
to the collection of moisture in them and to occasional grains of dust
or rust from the air tank which lodged in the controller and threw it
off. It is now possible, however, to obtain controllers which will
operate with almost no variation from the temperature desired, and which
require no compressed air for their proper functioning. Under these
conditions there is hardly an excuse for a manufacturer to operate his
plant on the old system of hand control of the steam valves, with the
resulting losses in manufactured goods due to pure reliance on human
efficiency.
The recording thermometer makes a pen and ink record on a chart showing
the temperature and length of time each tank of catsup is given, or, if
a continuous pasteurizer is used, it shows up any variations in the
temperature of the water in that pasteurizer during the day. The factory
manager can look at all of these charts in the morning, and know
positively that every bottle of catsup was processed the right length of
time, and at the right temperature. If any mistakes were made the chart
will show it, and it will show at just what time the mistake was made,
and how serious it was. It is a great satisfaction to have such a
record, and the processor invariably takes great pride in making a
perfect chart.
Non-Process Method
When no after-sterilization is given, it is imperative that the catsup
be very hot when filled. Boiling catsup runs about 214 degrees F. in
temperature, and although running it through the finisher and receiving
tank cools it down somewhat, if it is heated in a long jacketed pipe
while being conveyed from receiving tank to filling machine it should
not be below 180 degrees at the very lowest when filled, and if it can
be filled hotter than that, so much the better. As to the pipe above
mentioned, the smaller the pipe, and the larger the steam jacket, and
the higher the steam pressure, the greater will be the heating capacity
of this jacket on the catsup. After a little experimenting these points
can be adjusted to give the proper result. If the jacketed area is
short, of course a higher steam pressure must be used than if this area
is long.
Some packers of non-processed catsup use a jacketed tank or kettle
directly over the filling machine to hold the catsup at a high
temperature while it is awaiting bottling, with a very short line of
enamel pipe going from it to the filling machine. If this is used, a
jacketed pipe is not needed.
Guesswork should be eliminated. Do not assume that you are getting the
right temperature on your catsup when it is filled, and do not be
satisfied with going up to the filler once or twice a day, dropping a
thermometer in the liquid, and waiting for the temperature to record
itself. Put a recording thermometer in that tank just over the filling
tubes, with the dial in a prominent place, so that you can step up to it
at any time and know what the exact temperature of that catsup has been
every minute of the time for the past ten or twelve hours.
If this is done there is no chance of escape on the part of the man who
is supposed to watch this temperature, and if he knows his work is being
recorded every minute on a chart he is going to be mighty careful.
The empty bottles, when placed in the filling machine, should be clean
and practically sterile. After they have passed around the rotary bottle
washer, and had a thorough washing with hot water, they are placed in
the hot air sterilizer neck down, so they can drain. The best kind of
sterilizer is an endless chain carrying trays to hold about a dozen
bottles each, and enclosed and protected by either wood or metal. The
sterilizer should be vertical, so that it will not occupy much floor
space, and inside of the wood or metal covering are steam pipes fitted
with a temperature controller or thermostat so that a temperature of
about 250 degrees F. can be maintained. The speed of the endless chain
is so regulated that it takes about 30 minutes from the time the bottles
enter the sterilizer until they come out.
Needless to say, the filling machine should be kept scrupulously clean,
and before being used in the morning, or for the afternoon run, should
be thoroughly steamed out so that it will be hot and practically sterile
to receive the first batch of catsup.
As to the bottle closures, if they are kept in covered barrels in a
clean place and not allowed to be contaminated by dust, etc., it is not
considered necessary to sterilize them, although they could no doubt be
given a hot air sterilization very easily if it was thought necessary. I
have seen thousands of cases packed without sterilizing the closures,
and the catsup never gave any trouble.
After applying the closure the bottles are rinsed off in a warm water
bath, and are then ready to be labeled and cased.
Which Method Is the Better?
Now comes the question which is of vital importance to every packer—what
am I going to do—give my catsup an after-sterilization or not? I believe
the answer to that question should depend upon the conditions under
which the packer operates. I do not believe either method is to be
recommended universally, but that there are many cases where it is
better not to process, and other cases where processing is advisable.
If a manufacturer makes his product at a large central plant, where he
can count on reliable and fairly intelligent help at all times, and
where he is so equipped that he is not bothered with frequent breakdowns
and delays during the day’s run, he should give the non-processing
method his careful consideration, and I believe he will profit by
adopting it. If, on the other hand, he has many plants scattered all
over the country, many of them dependent to a large extent on an
indifferent class of help, with little experience or intelligence, or he
has a lot of wornout equipment, and has several breakdowns almost every
day in the bottling department, he had better insure his product by
processing.
If I were building a new plant or remodeling an old one, I would most
certainly arrange to eliminate processing if I could count on a fairly
good class of help.
Labeling and Casing
Most bottles are labeled by machine. The machines do the work much
faster than can be done by hand, and also do it neater as a rule.
However, in most cases it is necessary to have someone to adjust the
neck band after the bottle leaves the machine. Sometimes they are
wrapped, and sometimes not. Wrapping in transparent tissue makes a very
attractive package, and it will modify the effect of strong light, which
some manufacturers think has a discoloring tendency if the catsup is
exposed to it a long time.
Both wood and fiber cases are used for catsup, and the fiber cases seem
to do all right where the contents do not weigh over about 40 lbs. If
they weigh more than that it is usually considered advisable to use wood
cases.
Stacking Catsup to Avoid “Black Neck”
In CHAPTER VIII mention was made of the darkening in the neck of the
bottle, called “black neck.” It was stated that this was usually due to
the fact that the closure is not absolutely air tight, and allows the
air to very slowly filter into the space in the neck, which should be a
vacuum if the seal is perfectly tight. This condition can be partly
avoided by printing the cases so that when the case is stacked right
side up the catsup will be neck down in the case. Therefore, the vacuum
space will be at the bottom of the bottle, instead of at the neck, and
there is no chance for air to filter into the neck because the body of
the catsup is right up against the closure. When these cases are shipped
out and stacked in a warehouse, the catsup will always be bottom up as
long as the cases are right side up. In all probability the bottles will
remain in this position until the case is unpacked by the retailer and
the bottles are placed on the shelves.
Packing Gallons and No. 10’s
Packing catsup in gallon glass jars and enamel lined No. 10 cans is very
similar to packing it in bottles. These sizes can either be processed or
not processed, and the same principles apply as in packing the smaller
sizes. If no process is given, the containers should be put through a
hot air sterilizer, just as the small bottles are, and the catsup should
be very hot when filled.
With glass jars the breakage is often very great, and they must be
heated slowly and carefully, and placed on a warm wooden surface when
they are filled. A metal surface beneath the jars will almost always
cause a lot of breakage due to the fact that it chills so easily. For
the closure a cork is usually used, and the process should not exceed
180 degrees, as a higher temperature will cause the corks to pop out. A
process of two hours is sufficient for gallon jars.
If No. 10 catsup is given an after-sterilization, 1½ hours in boiling
water is sufficient. It must be understood that it takes much longer for
the heat to penetrate to the center of a can of catsup than it does with
pulp, as the catsup contains sugar and salt and is heavier in specific
gravity. After-sterilization the cans should be cooled gradually in
water, and allowed to remain in the water until they only have
sufficient heat left to allow the water to evaporate from the surface of
the can and prevent rusting.
CHAPTER XI
THE MANUFACTURE OF CHILI SAUCE AND THE PULPING OF TOMATO TRIMMINGS
Chili sauce is the finest tomato product manufactured. It differs from
catsup in that it is made from whole peeled tomatoes with the seeds and
fiber left in, and in that it usually contains more onion than catsup,
and is usually a little “hotter.”
Grading the Tomatoes
For chili sauce the tomatoes are peeled as they are for canning. As a
rule they are run over a grader and only the large ones are used for
peeling, the small ones being pulped or made into catsup. It does not
pay to peel the small tomatoes, as it requires too much labor, and the
women who do the peeling at so much per bucket try to fight shy of them,
and often mash them up in their buckets to avoid having to peel them.
They will make just as good pulp or catsup as the large tomatoes will,
and much more can be got out of them in this way than if an attempt is
made to get them peeled.
Sometimes the small tomatoes and the peelings of the large tomatoes are
pulped together. If this is done the whole small tomatoes tone up the
flavor of the peelings, and also help to keep the final product within
safe limits as to microscopical count.
Some packers throw away the peelings, either because they are so busy
with the whole tomatoes that they can’t bother with them, or because
they are afraid the pulp which they are worked up into will run high in
micro-organisms, and they don’t want to have such pulp on their hands.
Method of Handling Tomatoes
The usual method of handling the tomatoes is to run them first over a
sorting belt, where they are inspected by several women, then over a
grader, which lets the small tomatoes fall through on to a belt which
conveys them to a washing arrangement, and thence to the “breaking
tanks,” or to the pulp machine, or the crusher, depending upon which
pulping method is used. The small tomatoes may or may not be given a
second sorting.
If the trimmings are to be thrown away, the large tomatoes don’t need to
be sorted, as the peelers will take care of that, and in this case a
good way is to put all the tomatoes through a rotary washer first, then
over a grader, and have the small tomatoes carefully sorted after the
grading is done. The large tomatoes pass from the grader to the scalder,
and thence to the peeling table or “merry-go-round,” where they are
peeled.
The best method to use if the trimmings are to be pulped will be
discussed later in the chapter.
The peeled tomatoes are thrown into a cutting machine which cuts them
into good-sized chunks, and drops them on a bucket conveyor which takes
them to the cooking kettles. The cutter should be so adjusted that it
will not make the tomatoes mushy. A few fair-sized pieces of tomato in a
bottle of chili sauce is nearly always pleasing to the consumer.
It is important that the peeling be thorough. Each bucket should be
inspected before the tomatoes are thrown into the chopper. Pieces of
peeling in chili sauce are very noticeable when the product is used, and
make an unfavorable impression.
Amount of Tomatoes and Onions
It takes just about 72 fourteen-quart buckets of peeled tomatoes of
average firmness to make 100 gallons of finished chili sauce. For this
same amount about 100 lbs. of chopped onions should be used. The onions
should be very carefully peeled, and very finely chopped. If this
chopping is not done fine enough the pieces of onion will stop up the
tubes of the filling machine. It is best to use only large onions for
chili sauce, as it takes a great many women to peel the required amount
if small ones are used, and the waste on the small ones is considerable
when the peeling must be done so thoroughly.
The cooking is carried out the same as in catsup, and the same
ingredients are used, with the possible exception of garlic, which, so
far as I know, is not often used in chili sauce.
Spices
The spicing is very similar to catsup. In some brands about twice as
much cayenne is used as was suggested for catsup, while other brands are
spiced mildly. One of the best liked brands on the market is quite mild,
and another brand which is equally popular is quite hot.
Salt, Sugar and Vinegar
The same amounts of salt and vinegar are used as in catsup, and they are
added in exactly the same manner. About 10 lbs. more of sugar is needed
for a 100–gallon batch than is used in catsup. This is probably
necessitated by the large amount of onions used.
Testing Finishing Point
Testing the point at which the cooking is completed must be done by the
eye. The hydrometer can not be used, as chili sauce is too lumpy. A
hydrometer can only be used when the product is smooth and homogeneous.
By a little experience the cook will soon learn to judge the finishing
point. It is that point at which very little water runs from the lumps
of tomatoes when the chili sauce is hot, and practically no free water
shows when a little of it is cooled in a saucepan. In my opinion the
finishing point of chili sauce is easier to judge by the eye than it is
on catsup.
Filling, Sealing, and Sterilizing
As to filling, sealing, sterilizing or not sterilizing, labeling,
stacking, etc., the same remarks apply to chili sauce as to catsup. The
filling is somewhat more difficult, as the product is lumpy, and a
special filling tube must be used. As to whether an automatic rotary
filler similar to that used for catsup is ever used for chili sauce I do
not know. I have always filled it with one of the old style catsup
fillers, using a special filling tube.
On account of the fact that a wide-mouthed bottle is used, there is even
more danger of air leakage in the neck of the bottle, causing “black
neck,” than there is in catsup. It is a common sight to see chili sauce
with an inch, or even two inches, of blackening at the top of the
bottle. Sometimes the very finest quality of cork is used, and then
paraffin is put over that, but even then we find that this darkening is
not avoided. I recommend the same procedure here as was given when
discussing this subject on catsup.
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