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THE MANUFACTURE OF TOMATO PRODUCTS TEXT

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for processing in different factories. Some packers process as low as 19992 characters on this page
for processing in different factories. Some packers process as low as 170 degrees F., it is said, while others use a temperature very close to the boiling point. In some plants pint bottles receive only a 30–minute process, while in others they get over an hour. The proper time to use depends upon the temperature that can be maintained at the filling machine, and the rapidity with which the processing can be done after the filling. If the packer can hold his catsup around 180 degrees at the filler, and is so equipped, either with continuous pasteurizers or stationary tanks, that he can process immediately, an hour is ample time for pints, and 45 minutes is sufficient for half-pints; other sizes accordingly. If, however, the temperature of the catsup at the filler often falls to 170 degrees or below, and the catsup is filled faster than it can be processed, so that at times much of it must stand for an hour before it can get in the process tanks, 15 minutes additional for each size bottle had better be added to the above. This may seem to some packers like a long time. All one has to do to convince himself that it is not too long is to take one of those thermometers which are made especially for determining temperatures at the center of the bottle, and put it in a bottle of catsup while it is being processed, watch the mercury rise, and note the time it takes to bring the center of the bottle to the temperature of the water surrounding it. You will find that if the water surrounding a pint bottle is 200 degrees, and the temperature at the center of the bottle is 160 degrees, it will take just about an hour to bring the catsup at the center of the bottle up to 200 degrees. As to the proper temperature, I do not see why as high a temperature as is possible without breaking the bottles should not be used. Why some packers process at 170 degrees or 180 degrees I do not know. They certainly have not carefully investigated the effect of their processing. The temperature I prefer is six degrees below boiling. At sea level this would be 206 degrees. This temperature will not break the bottles, but the steam pipes entering the tank should be so arranged and perforated that there will be as even a distribution of steam as possible. If these pipes are not properly arranged, there is apt to be as much as 6 degrees variation in the temperature at different parts of the tank. Several years ago I made a large number of tests to determine the number of micro-organisms that remained alive in bottled catsup after processing at 206 degrees F., as compared with the number which remained alive in catsup bottled from the same batch and processed at 200 degrees F. for the same length of time. The difference was surprising. I expected some difference, but not nearly as great as was shown by the tests. That which was processed at 200 degrees for an hour contained quite a few living molds, yeasts, and bacteria per cubic centimeter. This was shown by plating out samples bacteriologically on culture media—the media used being dextrose agar and wart agar. The catsup from the same batch processed one hour at 206 degrees contained scarcely any living micro-organisms at all per cubic centimeter. This test was repeated a number of times with the same result each time. These micro-organisms may have been in the form of spores in the catsup, but developed into the vegetative forms of molds, yeasts, and bacteria when placed in the culture media. Temperature Controlling and Recording Devices The process tanks should all be equipped with temperature controllers and recording thermometers. The controller holds the steam at the right point, not allowing the temperature to vary more than 2 degrees, if it is a good make. Several years ago it was impossible to find a temperature controller which operated without compressed air that would hold the temperature closer than a variation of 10 degrees, which is too wide a variation for catsup pasteurization. The compressed air controllers worked very well but required an air compressor where the pressure must be held within certain limits, and air pipes to connect with all the controllers. Some plants did not have the air equipment, and in cases where it was put in the pipes gave more or less trouble due to the collection of moisture in them and to occasional grains of dust or rust from the air tank which lodged in the controller and threw it off. It is now possible, however, to obtain controllers which will operate with almost no variation from the temperature desired, and which require no compressed air for their proper functioning. Under these conditions there is hardly an excuse for a manufacturer to operate his plant on the old system of hand control of the steam valves, with the resulting losses in manufactured goods due to pure reliance on human efficiency. The recording thermometer makes a pen and ink record on a chart showing the temperature and length of time each tank of catsup is given, or, if a continuous pasteurizer is used, it shows up any variations in the temperature of the water in that pasteurizer during the day. The factory manager can look at all of these charts in the morning, and know positively that every bottle of catsup was processed the right length of time, and at the right temperature. If any mistakes were made the chart will show it, and it will show at just what time the mistake was made, and how serious it was. It is a great satisfaction to have such a record, and the processor invariably takes great pride in making a perfect chart. Non-Process Method When no after-sterilization is given, it is imperative that the catsup be very hot when filled. Boiling catsup runs about 214 degrees F. in temperature, and although running it through the finisher and receiving tank cools it down somewhat, if it is heated in a long jacketed pipe while being conveyed from receiving tank to filling machine it should not be below 180 degrees at the very lowest when filled, and if it can be filled hotter than that, so much the better. As to the pipe above mentioned, the smaller the pipe, and the larger the steam jacket, and the higher the steam pressure, the greater will be the heating capacity of this jacket on the catsup. After a little experimenting these points can be adjusted to give the proper result. If the jacketed area is short, of course a higher steam pressure must be used than if this area is long. Some packers of non-processed catsup use a jacketed tank or kettle directly over the filling machine to hold the catsup at a high temperature while it is awaiting bottling, with a very short line of enamel pipe going from it to the filling machine. If this is used, a jacketed pipe is not needed. Guesswork should be eliminated. Do not assume that you are getting the right temperature on your catsup when it is filled, and do not be satisfied with going up to the filler once or twice a day, dropping a thermometer in the liquid, and waiting for the temperature to record itself. Put a recording thermometer in that tank just over the filling tubes, with the dial in a prominent place, so that you can step up to it at any time and know what the exact temperature of that catsup has been every minute of the time for the past ten or twelve hours. If this is done there is no chance of escape on the part of the man who is supposed to watch this temperature, and if he knows his work is being recorded every minute on a chart he is going to be mighty careful. The empty bottles, when placed in the filling machine, should be clean and practically sterile. After they have passed around the rotary bottle washer, and had a thorough washing with hot water, they are placed in the hot air sterilizer neck down, so they can drain. The best kind of sterilizer is an endless chain carrying trays to hold about a dozen bottles each, and enclosed and protected by either wood or metal. The sterilizer should be vertical, so that it will not occupy much floor space, and inside of the wood or metal covering are steam pipes fitted with a temperature controller or thermostat so that a temperature of about 250 degrees F. can be maintained. The speed of the endless chain is so regulated that it takes about 30 minutes from the time the bottles enter the sterilizer until they come out. Needless to say, the filling machine should be kept scrupulously clean, and before being used in the morning, or for the afternoon run, should be thoroughly steamed out so that it will be hot and practically sterile to receive the first batch of catsup. As to the bottle closures, if they are kept in covered barrels in a clean place and not allowed to be contaminated by dust, etc., it is not considered necessary to sterilize them, although they could no doubt be given a hot air sterilization very easily if it was thought necessary. I have seen thousands of cases packed without sterilizing the closures, and the catsup never gave any trouble. After applying the closure the bottles are rinsed off in a warm water bath, and are then ready to be labeled and cased. Which Method Is the Better? Now comes the question which is of vital importance to every packer—what am I going to do—give my catsup an after-sterilization or not? I believe the answer to that question should depend upon the conditions under which the packer operates. I do not believe either method is to be recommended universally, but that there are many cases where it is better not to process, and other cases where processing is advisable. If a manufacturer makes his product at a large central plant, where he can count on reliable and fairly intelligent help at all times, and where he is so equipped that he is not bothered with frequent breakdowns and delays during the day’s run, he should give the non-processing method his careful consideration, and I believe he will profit by adopting it. If, on the other hand, he has many plants scattered all over the country, many of them dependent to a large extent on an indifferent class of help, with little experience or intelligence, or he has a lot of wornout equipment, and has several breakdowns almost every day in the bottling department, he had better insure his product by processing. If I were building a new plant or remodeling an old one, I would most certainly arrange to eliminate processing if I could count on a fairly good class of help. Labeling and Casing Most bottles are labeled by machine. The machines do the work much faster than can be done by hand, and also do it neater as a rule. However, in most cases it is necessary to have someone to adjust the neck band after the bottle leaves the machine. Sometimes they are wrapped, and sometimes not. Wrapping in transparent tissue makes a very attractive package, and it will modify the effect of strong light, which some manufacturers think has a discoloring tendency if the catsup is exposed to it a long time. Both wood and fiber cases are used for catsup, and the fiber cases seem to do all right where the contents do not weigh over about 40 lbs. If they weigh more than that it is usually considered advisable to use wood cases. Stacking Catsup to Avoid “Black Neck” In CHAPTER VIII mention was made of the darkening in the neck of the bottle, called “black neck.” It was stated that this was usually due to the fact that the closure is not absolutely air tight, and allows the air to very slowly filter into the space in the neck, which should be a vacuum if the seal is perfectly tight. This condition can be partly avoided by printing the cases so that when the case is stacked right side up the catsup will be neck down in the case. Therefore, the vacuum space will be at the bottom of the bottle, instead of at the neck, and there is no chance for air to filter into the neck because the body of the catsup is right up against the closure. When these cases are shipped out and stacked in a warehouse, the catsup will always be bottom up as long as the cases are right side up. In all probability the bottles will remain in this position until the case is unpacked by the retailer and the bottles are placed on the shelves. Packing Gallons and No. 10’s Packing catsup in gallon glass jars and enamel lined No. 10 cans is very similar to packing it in bottles. These sizes can either be processed or not processed, and the same principles apply as in packing the smaller sizes. If no process is given, the containers should be put through a hot air sterilizer, just as the small bottles are, and the catsup should be very hot when filled. With glass jars the breakage is often very great, and they must be heated slowly and carefully, and placed on a warm wooden surface when they are filled. A metal surface beneath the jars will almost always cause a lot of breakage due to the fact that it chills so easily. For the closure a cork is usually used, and the process should not exceed 180 degrees, as a higher temperature will cause the corks to pop out. A process of two hours is sufficient for gallon jars. If No. 10 catsup is given an after-sterilization, 1½ hours in boiling water is sufficient. It must be understood that it takes much longer for the heat to penetrate to the center of a can of catsup than it does with pulp, as the catsup contains sugar and salt and is heavier in specific gravity. After-sterilization the cans should be cooled gradually in water, and allowed to remain in the water until they only have sufficient heat left to allow the water to evaporate from the surface of the can and prevent rusting. CHAPTER XI THE MANUFACTURE OF CHILI SAUCE AND THE PULPING OF TOMATO TRIMMINGS Chili sauce is the finest tomato product manufactured. It differs from catsup in that it is made from whole peeled tomatoes with the seeds and fiber left in, and in that it usually contains more onion than catsup, and is usually a little “hotter.” Grading the Tomatoes For chili sauce the tomatoes are peeled as they are for canning. As a rule they are run over a grader and only the large ones are used for peeling, the small ones being pulped or made into catsup. It does not pay to peel the small tomatoes, as it requires too much labor, and the women who do the peeling at so much per bucket try to fight shy of them, and often mash them up in their buckets to avoid having to peel them. They will make just as good pulp or catsup as the large tomatoes will, and much more can be got out of them in this way than if an attempt is made to get them peeled. Sometimes the small tomatoes and the peelings of the large tomatoes are pulped together. If this is done the whole small tomatoes tone up the flavor of the peelings, and also help to keep the final product within safe limits as to microscopical count. Some packers throw away the peelings, either because they are so busy with the whole tomatoes that they can’t bother with them, or because they are afraid the pulp which they are worked up into will run high in micro-organisms, and they don’t want to have such pulp on their hands. Method of Handling Tomatoes The usual method of handling the tomatoes is to run them first over a sorting belt, where they are inspected by several women, then over a grader, which lets the small tomatoes fall through on to a belt which conveys them to a washing arrangement, and thence to the “breaking tanks,” or to the pulp machine, or the crusher, depending upon which pulping method is used. The small tomatoes may or may not be given a second sorting. If the trimmings are to be thrown away, the large tomatoes don’t need to be sorted, as the peelers will take care of that, and in this case a good way is to put all the tomatoes through a rotary washer first, then over a grader, and have the small tomatoes carefully sorted after the grading is done. The large tomatoes pass from the grader to the scalder, and thence to the peeling table or “merry-go-round,” where they are peeled. The best method to use if the trimmings are to be pulped will be discussed later in the chapter. The peeled tomatoes are thrown into a cutting machine which cuts them into good-sized chunks, and drops them on a bucket conveyor which takes them to the cooking kettles. The cutter should be so adjusted that it will not make the tomatoes mushy. A few fair-sized pieces of tomato in a bottle of chili sauce is nearly always pleasing to the consumer. It is important that the peeling be thorough. Each bucket should be inspected before the tomatoes are thrown into the chopper. Pieces of peeling in chili sauce are very noticeable when the product is used, and make an unfavorable impression. Amount of Tomatoes and Onions It takes just about 72 fourteen-quart buckets of peeled tomatoes of average firmness to make 100 gallons of finished chili sauce. For this same amount about 100 lbs. of chopped onions should be used. The onions should be very carefully peeled, and very finely chopped. If this chopping is not done fine enough the pieces of onion will stop up the tubes of the filling machine. It is best to use only large onions for chili sauce, as it takes a great many women to peel the required amount if small ones are used, and the waste on the small ones is considerable when the peeling must be done so thoroughly. The cooking is carried out the same as in catsup, and the same ingredients are used, with the possible exception of garlic, which, so far as I know, is not often used in chili sauce. Spices The spicing is very similar to catsup. In some brands about twice as much cayenne is used as was suggested for catsup, while other brands are spiced mildly. One of the best liked brands on the market is quite mild, and another brand which is equally popular is quite hot. Salt, Sugar and Vinegar The same amounts of salt and vinegar are used as in catsup, and they are added in exactly the same manner. About 10 lbs. more of sugar is needed for a 100–gallon batch than is used in catsup. This is probably necessitated by the large amount of onions used. Testing Finishing Point Testing the point at which the cooking is completed must be done by the eye. The hydrometer can not be used, as chili sauce is too lumpy. A hydrometer can only be used when the product is smooth and homogeneous. By a little experience the cook will soon learn to judge the finishing point. It is that point at which very little water runs from the lumps of tomatoes when the chili sauce is hot, and practically no free water shows when a little of it is cooled in a saucepan. In my opinion the finishing point of chili sauce is easier to judge by the eye than it is on catsup. Filling, Sealing, and Sterilizing As to filling, sealing, sterilizing or not sterilizing, labeling, stacking, etc., the same remarks apply to chili sauce as to catsup. The filling is somewhat more difficult, as the product is lumpy, and a special filling tube must be used. As to whether an automatic rotary filler similar to that used for catsup is ever used for chili sauce I do not know. I have always filled it with one of the old style catsup fillers, using a special filling tube. On account of the fact that a wide-mouthed bottle is used, there is even more danger of air leakage in the neck of the bottle, causing “black neck,” than there is in catsup. It is a common sight to see chili sauce with an inch, or even two inches, of blackening at the top of the bottle. Sometimes the very finest quality of cork is used, and then paraffin is put over that, but even then we find that this darkening is not avoided. I recommend the same procedure here as was given when discussing this subject on catsup.
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PUBLIC-DOMAIN BOOK The Manufacture of Tomato Products W. G. Hierprimary
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