THE STORY OF MILK TEXT

THE STORY OF MILK ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [Illustration: Well kept creamery with attractive surroundings ] ------------------------------------------------------------------------ THE STORY OF MILK [Illustration] BY JOHAN D. FREDERIKSEN GRADUATE OF THE ROYAL DANISH AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE, AUTHOR OF “CHEESE MAKING IN AMERICA” (IN DANISH), “CREAMING MILK BY CENTRIFUGAL FORCE,” ETC., GENERAL MANAGER OF CHR. HANSEN’S LABORATORY, MANUFACTURERS OF DAIRY AND MILK-FOOD PREPARATIONS, LITTLE FALLS, N.Y. New York THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1919 All rights reserved ------------------------------------------------------------------------ COPYRIGHT, 1919 BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY Set up and electrotyped. Published September, 1919 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TABLE OF CONTENTS HISTORICAL CHAPTER I PAGE PRODUCTION, COMPOSITION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF 1 MILK Milk Ferments 1 —Pasteurization 1 Dairy Cattle 1 —Milk-Breeds 1 —Beef-Cattle 4 —Food and Water 5 —The Barn 9 —Milking 10 —Test the Cows 11 —Healthy Cows 12 Composition of Milk 13 —Butter-fat 13 —Casein and Albumen 14 —Milk-Sugar 14 —Mineral Matters 15 How to Test Milk 15 —The Babcock Test 16 —Sampling 17 —The Lactometer 18 —Acidity Test 19 Ferments 20 Enzymes 21 —Rennet 20 —Pepsin 21 Bacteria 21 —Lactic Acid Bacilli 21 The Control of Bacteria 22 —Cleanliness 22 —Heat 22 —Cooling 22 —Disinfectants 25 Pasteurization 25 Pure Cultures 30 —Starters 32 CHAPTER II MILK SUPPLY AND CREAMERY PRODUCTS 35 Milk Supply 35 —Bovine Tuberculosis 35 —Milk as a Disease Carrier 36 —Bacteria Count 36 —Certified Milk 36 —The Sanitary Code 38 —New York State Milk Grading 38 —City Delivery 39 —Milk Stations 41 —Skim Milk 44 Cream 44 —The Separator 46 —Percentage of Butter-fat 48 —Standardizing Cream 48 —Pasteurized Cream 49 —Whipped Cream 49 —Emulsified Cream 50 Ice Cream 52 —Freezers 52 —Classification of Ice Cream 56 —Ice Cream Recipes 56 Butter 69 —Dairy Butter 70 —Centrifugal Creaming 70 —Co-operative Creameries 70 —Ripening the Cream 71 —Coloring 74 —Churning 75 —Working 78 —Salting 79 —Composition 79 —Overrun 79 —Packing 79 —Sweet Butter 79 —Renovated Butter 80 —Oleomargarine 80 —Coco-Butter 80 Buttermilk 80 —Cooling Essential 81 —Commercial Buttermilk 81 —Ripening 82 —Breaking up the Curd 82 —Thick Milk 82 —Yoghourt 83 Fermented Milk 83 —Koumis 83 —Kefir 85 CHAPTER III CHEESE 86 Cheddar Cheese 89 The Factory System 99 —Ripening the Milk 90 —Coloring and Setting with Rennet 92 —Cutting the Curd 94 —“Cooking” 94 —Matting 95 —Salting 97 —Pressing 97 —Curing 97 —Form, size and packing 98 —Cleaning the vats 101 —Yield 102 —Composition 102 —Qualities 103 Cheese Made from Pasteurized Milk 103 Making Cheddar Cheese on the Farm 104 Other Types of Hard Cheese 111 —Gouda 112 —Edam 112 —Swiss 115 —Roquefort 120 —Parmesan 123 —Caccio Cavallo 124 —Limburger 125 —Brick 125 —Munster 126 Soft Rennet Cheese 126 —Neufchatel 126 —Cream Cheese 127 —Cured Soft Cheese 128 —French Soft Cheese 128 Cottage Cheese 129 —Making Cottage Cheese with Rennet 132 Snappy Cheese 134 Club Cheese 134 Whey Cheese 134 Milk-Sugar 135 Casein 135 Milk Powder 136 —Just-Hatmaker Process 136 —Eckenberg Process 136 —Merrell-Soule Process 136 —Economic Process 136 —Skim-Milk Powder 136 —Whole-Milk Powder 136 Condensed and Evaporated Milk 137 Whey 138 CHAPTER IV MILK AS A FOOD 139 Nutrients 139 —Protein 139 —Fats and Carbohydrates 139 —Mineral Matters 140 —Relation 140 —Nutritive Ratio 140 —Calories 141 —Fallacy of Theoretical Valuation 143 —“Something Unknown” 143 Care of Milk in the House 145 —Keep the Milk Cool 145 —Top-Milk 146 Milk for Infants 148 —Modifying Milk 148 —Recipes for Infant Food 149 Milk for Growing Children 152 CHAPTER V MILK COOKERY 154 Soups 155 —Cream Soups 155 —Cereal Cream Soups 157 —Milk Chowders 158 —Milk Stews 158 Milk Cereals 159 Luncheon and Supper Dishes 159 —Creamed Dishes 160 —Souffles 161 —Cheese Fondu 161 —Milk Toast 162 Cheese Dishes as Meat Substitutes 162 Cheese Salads 166 Cottage Cheese 167 Milk Breads and Biscuits 170 Desserts 172 Junkets 179 Milk Beverages 181 Miscellaneous Suggestions 184 The Thermometer 184 Weights and Measures 185 End Notes 187 Bibliography 188 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ INTRODUCTION The conception of this “Story of Milk” dates many years back. In his life-long study of problems connected with dairy farming and milk industries in two of the world’s greatest dairy countries, Denmark and the United States, the author has felt the need of a concise handbook covering this interesting subject. In his forty years of work in the manufacture and distribution of dairy and milk-food preparations he has been brought constantly into contact with men and women interested in the production of milk and has found a persistent demand for a book that might be consulted by anybody in regard to questions related to these greatest of all foods, which are, or ought to be, a most important part of the daily diet of children and adults alike, at all times, everywhere. There was a time during the war when, frightened by the soaring of the price which had remained remarkably low for many years, much too low in fact compared with the cost of other food, people began to cut down the consumption of milk to an alarming extent. Even the National Food Administration for a short time recommended saving in the wrong place, forgetting that, at the highest figures reached during the temporary shortage, milk was still one of the cheapest of foods and that it was absolutely indispensable for growing children and exceedingly beneficial for men and women who were called upon to exercise their physical and mental powers as never before. But with men like Dean Russell of the Wisconsin Agricultural College in the Department and Dr. Graham Lusk of Cornell University representing the United States on the Inter-Allied Council of Alimentation, the Food Administration could not long maintain this mistaken attitude but quickly joined the College authorities and the representatives of the dairy industry in advocating a liberal use of milk. And the Department of Agriculture sent out over the country a large force of demonstrators to show the people how to use milk in making cottage cheese and many other ways, and Agricultural Colleges, Farm Bureaus and Home Economics Agents worked hand in hand with Washington in disseminating the knowledge of handling and utilizing milk. A genuine interest has been aroused in our country in the economy and conservation of food, and in “The Story of Milk” the author hopes to place at the disposal of the student of Domestic Science a comprehensive book of reference which may open the eyes of many to the fact that there is no more interesting subject than “Milk” in connection with the study of the welfare and physical improvement of humanity, and that milk and its products should be used to a much greater extent than heretofore. It would make a long list of references if the author should mention the sources on which he has drawn for information beyond his own life-long experience in the dairy and related industries. He desires to express his sincere appreciation of the kindness and ready response of institutions and friends to whom he has appealed for photographs and cuts which have enabled him to illustrate the text so liberally. In the back of the book will be found a brief bibliography of standard dairy literature in which students may find material for further information. Many interesting data and several excellent illustrations have been obtained from the bulletins and collections of the Department of Agriculture in Washington and the Dairy Schools at Ithaca, N.Y., Madison, Wis., and Ames, Ia. The Chapter on Milk Cookery was written and classified by the author’s wife, whose practical experience will make it useful alike to housekeepers and students of Domestic Science. J. D. FREDERIKSEN. Little Falls, N.Y., April, 1919. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ HISTORICAL Milk and its products have been known and used from time immemorial. In the Bible milk and milk foods are mentioned in some thirty places. In Gen. 18:8 we read: “... and he (Abraham’s servant) took butter and milk and set it before them ...”; 1 Sam. 17:28: “And Jesse said unto David, his son: ... bring these ten cheeses unto the captain of their thousand and look how thy brethren fare....”; Prov. 30:33: “For the churning of milk bringeth forth butter,” etc. Though in some of these passages butter is mentioned it is hardly probably that this product was really made or used at the time under the climatic conditions in Palestine. More likely it was various kinds of curd and cheese which the translator called butter. At any rate, the Hebrews of that far-off day coveted milk and its products among their most valued foods. From Egyptian, Greek and Roman history it appears that knowledge of cheese goes back to the most ancient times and that it was made from the milk of sheep, goats, cows, asses, mares, in fact from all domestic animals; in the far North, Lapps and Eskimos still make it from the milk of the reindeer, the Arabs use camel’s milk, Llama cheese is famous in the Cordilleras and Zebu cheese in Ceylon and India. Even in ancient times the great food value of dairy products was recognized. Plinius tells of Zoroaster that for twenty years he lived exclusively on cheese, and Plutarch calls cheese one of the most nourishing of foods. As time went by, the cow excelled all other domestic animals in capacity for the production of milk and by constant use through centuries for the one special purpose,—by care in feeding, breeding and selection,—special breeds of cattle were developed which gave milk in extraordinarily large quantities. [Illustration: From Maelkeritidende, Copenhagen ] [Illustration: Thomas R. Segelcke, father of scientific dairying in Denmark ] [Illustration: L. B. Arnold, noted dairy expert and writer, of Herkimer County, N.Y. ] In the cold climate of the northern countries where butter will keep for a long time it has been made for centuries. The illustration above is from a mural painting in an old church in Finland. Evidently at the time when that was built the devil already played havoc with the churn and even up to the days of our grand-fathers his Satanic Majesty was often accused of preventing the butter from “coming.” Not until the middle of the nineteenth century did dairying take its place among the important industries of the world and science begin to be applied in its development. Between 1860 and 1870 Thomas R. Segelcke, the “Father of Scientific Dairying” in Denmark, introduced the thermometer in churning instead of the rule of thumb and started the keeping of records in the manufacture of butter. N. J. Fjord started a series of experiments in the creameries, continued through the next decades, and which became models for similar work throughout the world, covering pasteurization, ice houses and cold storage, comparison between