ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS TEXT

Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw _Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In _Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter. _Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_. 41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other Herbs. 42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of _Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold _Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and _Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of _Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man, with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in [37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the _Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_ among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them. Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so highly magnify them. 43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in Pottage. See _Blitum_. 44. Orange, _Arantiæ_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling, and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_ being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute, cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best _succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and _Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon. 45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the _Turnep_. 46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_, enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_. 47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our _Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only. _Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the _Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable in our _Sallet_. Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar _Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thing in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_, dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do _Myrtle-berries_. 48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry, opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_ in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than _Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_, we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_. 49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis pass'd into a Proverb: _L'Insalata non è buon, ne bella_ _Ove non è la Pimpinella_. But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine Element. 50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, for Nourishment. The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during winter, if it prove not too severe. _Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much eaten. 51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the [39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent, eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus ex auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed (besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho' otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_ differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more _Nourishing_. There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_, of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable _Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take _Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_ has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the _Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides. 52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing. 53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with _Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_. Roccombo. See _Onions_. 54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_, _Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of _Wine_. See _Flowers_. 55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_, _Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the assiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but principally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to domineer. Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_. 56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about _Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_, almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in _France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_, it has nothing like it. 57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepæ_; The _French_ call them _Appetites_, which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c. 58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_, prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_. 59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family) was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_. The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short, first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and _Prætors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the green in _Fennil_. Shallots. See _Onion_. 60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the _Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor _Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute. This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd, roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects! 61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_ of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is an _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_, and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide _Wood-Sorrel_. 62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._ Ambassador and his Retinue. 63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist; _Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing more nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size. 64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a _Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most excellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis _Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and in all places. Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_. 65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only; and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_. 66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_, _Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes. 67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness of the Ventricle, _&c._ 68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariæ_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle, disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_, being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the _Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both Nourishing and Restorative. 69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist, grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender, dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_. 70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_ is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_ speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common _Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud. And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best of _Wheat_. Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread. Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with _Sugar_ and _Butter_. 71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_, which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_. 72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho' Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_, _Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with _Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing. 73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of other _Sorrels_. To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_, since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest _Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to