ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS TEXT

eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste. The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days, that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root. The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the _Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_; which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of _Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant _Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonæus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the _Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_, by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our _Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in _Botany_. There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large _Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender, begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_ alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which _Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and _Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time, us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_ frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_ (common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_, and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd, and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in _Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_ it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than _Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted. To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_, formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd, and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius Cæsar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the _Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb: _Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_, whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary; since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._ and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat. But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer _Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar _Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and _Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others, assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their _Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature. And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_ as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold _Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of _Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort, and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together. What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of _Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_ is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because, say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the deadly _Cicutæ_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and _Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_, (_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_; _Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Palustral Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_, offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and _Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is, that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_ [48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_ (a little chang'd) _Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_, _Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_. The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what [50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account, as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_ or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_: Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_ feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill effects. _Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as _Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again, as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek. And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga], and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_, and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter. We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by [51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's need of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_ Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients, so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed) _Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust, Savour, or Vertue. To this end, The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._ The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the _Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_ and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general, that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_ and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of this Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the _Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_) _If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_ _Of Temperance and Innocence,_ _And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_ _Diseases passage find;_ _They must not think here to assail_ _A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_ _They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_ _Before they can prevail;_ _Scarce any Plant is used here,_ _Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_. We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_, every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_ and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_ in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest) striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pôs esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting, as _Athenæus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn. lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this: _What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_ _What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_ _Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_ _Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_. As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for her _Angelical_ Guest. Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the _Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_ Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the _Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_; too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent _Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd _Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes, according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned [56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious. 'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _è contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_, _Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without _Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again _Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek: skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_) of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_, and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_, _Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_, pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands. I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially _Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture: And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_ following. II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_, or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_, and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_, and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd. III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_, _Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant. A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name, or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put into a small Vessel to ferment. IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_, as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of _Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful _Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been