HINTS ON CHEESE-MAKING TEXT

hydrometer with a scale graded at 100 for milk at 60° Farenheit, ought to sink to 96 in water. The variation in the density of milk will be shown by an experiment given by CHARLES L. FLINT, in his "Milch Cows and Dairy Farming." He says: "For the purpose of showing the difference in the specific gravity of different specimens of pure milk, taken from the cows in the morning, and allowed to cool down to about 60°, I used an instrument graduated with the pure milk mark at 100, with the following results: The first pint drawn from a native cow stood at 101. The last pint of the same milking, being the strippings of the same cow, stood at 86. The mixture of the two pints stood at about 93½. The milk of a pure bred Jersey stood at 95, that of an Ayrshire at 100, that of a Hereford at 106, that of a Devon at 111, while a thin cream stood at 66. All these specimens of milk were pure, and milked at the same time in the morning, carefully labeled in separate vessels, and set upon the same shelf to cool off; and yet the variations of specific gravity amounted to 25, or, taking the average quality of the native cow's milk at 93½, the variations amounted to 17½." It will be seen, by these experiments, that the richer the milk in butter, the less the specific gravity, thin cream being 30° below the water mark. The richer the milk in caseine, or cheese, the greater the specific gravity, the milk of the Devon indicating 15° above the water mark. Watering milk will of course reduce the specific gravity of milk rich in cheese, and by this means it can be made to indicate the average density of pure milk. In the same way, milk rich in butter may have its specific gravity increased until it nearly reaches that of water, but no amount of watering can make it indicate over 96°, which is the figure given for pure water. A little salt, or other ingredient, may be added to bring the density up to the pure milk mark. So the blueness of milk, produced by either skimming or watering, may be removed by the use of burnt sugar, which will give it a rich color. Or annotto may be used for the same purpose. Many expedients have been resorted to, from time to time, by the dishonest, for the purpose of disguising the impoverishment of milk by skimming and watering. "But," says some one, "why tell dishonest men how they can skim and adulterate their milk?" We have not done so. We have told honest men some of the practices of the dishonest, with the view of enabling them to detect the fraud. True, the hydrometer is not an accurate or legal test; but it shows the exact density of the milk tried, and this is a very important point. When you have decided this, by the use of the cream-gauges, you can determine the amount of cream; and if you let the milk stand until it coagulates, and the cheese separates from the whey, you can tell the relative proportion of water and cheese. This may be a somewhat slow and clumsy process, but it is nevertheless decisive, and often repays the trouble. Foreign substances, so far as not held in solution by the water, or not entangled in the cheese or cream, will settle at the bottom of the glasses. Besides, with these evidences to start on, the ways of a suspected person can be watched, and he often be caught in the very act of violating the law, which we quote below: § 1. Whoever shall knowingly sell, supply, or bring to be manufactured to any cheese manufactory in this State, any milk diluted with water, or in any way adulterated, or milk from which any cream has been taken, or milk commonly known as skimmed milk; or whoever shall keep back any part of the milk known as "strippings;" or whoever shall knowingly bring or supply milk to any cheese manufactory that is tainted or partly sour from want of proper care in keeping pails, strainers, or any vessel in which said milk is kept, clean and sweet, after being notified of such taint or carelessness; or any cheese manufacturer who shall knowingly use, or direct any of his employes to use, for his or their individual benefit, any cream from the milk brought to said cheese manufacturer, without the consent of all the owners thereof, shall, for each and every offense, forfeit and pay a sum not less than twenty-five dollars, nor more than one hundred dollars, with costs of suit, to be sued for in any court of competent jurisdiction, for the benefit of the person or persons, firm or association or corporation, or their assigns, upon whom such fraud be committed. CHAPTER IV. TAINTS AND ODORS. Whatever be the grade of cows and the quality of milk, much depends upon its management. A good deal of care and attention are requisite for the attainment of the best possible results with such milk as we may have to work up. But before we come to the process of milking, let us look a moment at the effect of food in regard to taints and the flavor of milk. It is now universally conceded, that the flavor as well as the quality of the milk depends very materially upon the food of the cow. Coarse swamp-grasses and weeds do not produce as rich or sweet milk as clover, timothy and red-top, grown on dry upland soil; while swamp-water gives a ranker flavor than the sweet spring and brook-water of hilly regions. Leeks are not the only weeds which taint the milk before it is taken from the cow. All rank vegetable growths lend a similar influence to injure flavor. Indeed, that which the cow eats is what she makes the milk of, and if these offensive things are taken into her system, she cannot be expected to turn out milk that will not partake of their qualities, any more than a man can be expected to make sweet cider of sour apples by running them through the mill and press. Even the atmosphere which the cows breathe affects the flavor of the milk. Carrion in the lot where the cows feed has been known to impart its odor to the milk of the dairy. Dirty stables and barnyards, the odor of which is breathed by the cows, makes the milk "taste of the barnyard," as the common expression goes. It becomes of the greatest importance, therefore, that cows should have clean, sweet pastures to feed in, and clear spring or brook-water to drink; also, that they should have clean, well-ventilated stables to stand in, and be milked in clean yards or stables, as free from all taints and bad odors as possible. The cows should not be heated by hurried driving with a dog, or by a man or boy on horseback, as this fevers the milk, giving it an unwholesome quality, leading to rapid decay as well as producing bad flavor. And, if quantity as well as quality is to be attained, pastures must contain plenty of feed, so that the cow can soon fill her stomach and then lie down or stand in the shade and ruminate at ease, instead of working constantly from morning to night to gather food enough to satisfy her. She must have water handy, instead of away back in some retired corner of a large pasture, as she naturally wants to drink a few swallows quite often, in warm weather, but will go until she gets excessively dry and feverish before she will travel a long distance to get water. When thus very dry, she drinks an inordinate quantity, which makes her feel heavy and uncomfortable--and whatever annoys a cow lessens the flow and reduces the quality of the milk. A little reflection must make these things apparent to every reasoning mind. Cows must have plenty of clean, wholesome food and pure water, and must be every way made comfortable and contented, if the largest flow and best quality of milk is expected. The cow is sure to show, not only her own naturally good or bad qualities, but her keep and care, in the milk pail. There is no cheating her. She will make a corresponding discount or dividend on every iota of ill or good treatment she receives. In this, she is an exact accountant, and she will insist upon keeping the account square. Milk requires not only favorable conditions for its production, as above indicated, but needs great care and cleanliness after it is drawn from the cows. A foul yard or stable will impart its odors to the milk. Uncleanliness in milking not only gets filth into the milk, but taints and injures its flavor. Some, for this reason, recommend washing the cow's bag before milking. But if this washing is done with cold water by the milker, it is quite likely to consume time, cool the bag and cause the cow to hold up a portion of the mess. Experience shows that the quicker the milk can be drawn, after the operation is commenced, the better the yield. If washing is done, it should be with warm or tepid water, and be the work of one person, who should go through the whole dairy in advance of the milkers. But, in our opinion, where the stable or yard is kept clean, a careful brushing of the bag with the hands before beginning, and care in holding the pail a little toward you from under the teats, will obviate all the evils of uncleanliness from milking; and, certain it is, where all the surroundings are dirty, no amount of washing the cow's bag will get rid of the bad effects of the odors arising from the filth. Clean quarters for milking are indispensable to the furnishing of sweet, nice-flavored milk. Cleanliness in all the pails, cans, strainers, and whatever comes in contact with the milk, is equally necessary. Thorough washing, not omitting the use of soap, scalding and airing, are the only things that will keep them sweet and free from taint. All implements and utensils should be as free from sharp corners as possible, as these are difficult to clean, and taints are apt to be left in them to come in contact with the new milk and infect it, as a small quantity of yeast leavens a batch of bread. The milk will, therefore, soon begin to ferment, producing one of the worst conditions which the cheese-maker has to contend with, and rendering it impossible for him to make firm, clean-flavored cheese of the milk. In no case should wooden vessels be used for milk. The wood will absorb the milk, and no amount of washing and scalding will get it entirely out. What remains will get frowy and impart its infection to the warm milk and cause it to rapidly taint. Tin vessels are the best of anything yet devised, and are recommended universally by the best dairymen and by the American Dairymen's Association. Those with pressed or round bottoms, having no inside angles for ferments to collect in, are preferable. These can be obtained for a trifle if any more money than common tin pails cost, and should receive the preference of dairymen when purchasing. In short, the greatest care should be taken to have all things strictly clean--not only those that come in contact with the milk, but those surrounding it. The milkers should be as clean, careful and expeditious as possible, avoiding all unnecessary or unusual motions, and everything calculated to alarm or excite the cows. Then, if the cows have had proper food, drink, care and treatment, there is little reason to apprehend anything objectionable in either the quantity or quality of the milk. CHAPTER V. COOLING MILK. The management of milk, when once obtained, is the great practical consideration with the farmer and cheese-maker. But the first handling and care devolve upon the farmer; the cheese-maker's duties begin with the delivery of the milk at the factory. Much, very much, depends upon the treatment of the milk after milking, and the consequent condition in which it is delivered. We will therefore begin at the stable or yard and follow the milk through all its stages, until it is run into the weighing-can. Previous suggestions as to cleanliness, etc., being adopted, we find the hot milk in the pails ready to be strained into the can standing on the platform or in the wagon. We say "strained," because this is necessary to absolute cleanliness, which affects the flavor, though at some factories the patrons are directed not to strain the milk, for the reason that poor care is so often taken of the strainer, and the keeping of the strainer drawn tight over the top of the can prevents cooling and hastens taint. For this reason, we would recommend the use of strainer-pails, unless the cloth strainer can be stretched above the can so as to allow the heat to escape and the cool air to come in. These precautions should be observed, most certainly, if no means is adopted for cooling the milk before starting for the factory. The subject of cooling and airing milk has long been earnestly discussed, and the importance of cooling, at least, we believe is universally conceded. But how is this end to be attained, with the thermometer indicating an average temperature of 80°, and perhaps higher? The first and simplest suggestion is to set the can in a tub of cold water--cold spring or well-water, or iced water--and to give the milk frequent agitation with a dipper or other convenient article, care being taken to stir it from the bottom, as the cold milk naturally settles, and of course the hot milk lies on the top. Gentle agitation secures the advantage, also, of preventing the cream from rising. This makes trouble, and consumes a little time, but we believe the result will well repay both. The milk-can should, by all means, be kept out of the sun's rays, and in a clean airy place. As to the importance of airing milk, there is a difference of opinion. Some assert that the airing is beneficial only so far as it assists in cooling, and that if we can succeed in cooling the milk down to 60°, or thereabouts, immediately after milking, we shall attain all the good results apparent from exposure to the air. All the "animal odors," they say, disappear. Be that as it may, it is scarcely possible to cool milk without more or less exposure to the atmosphere, and we have never heard it claimed that any bad consequences follow this exposure. It is possible, however, that it may more rapidly absorb oxygen, and thus sooner sour. The probability is, that any process which will secure the proper cooling will also afford the necessary exposure for the escape of all animal or other odors likely to pass off in the form of gas. Therefore, practically, it is of very little importance whether we consider the question of airing milk, in any of the stages of its management. So we will first look after the processes which secure known advantages. Several inventions for the purpose of cooling milk have made their appearance within the past year or two. Some for the use of factories, which seem to work quite satisfactorily, and others for the use of farmers, none of which, we believe, have yet been received with much favor. They are mostly too complicated, if not too expensive, and too difficult to keep clean, to ever become generally adopted. Yet, enough has already been developed to convince us that the desideratum, of a satisfactory apparatus for cooling milk as fast as, or soon after, it is taken from the cow, can be realized. The great trouble is, to make farmers use it faithfully, if at all. The cooling of milk as fast as milked, or very soon afterward, is the great question now presented to farmers and cheese-makers. It is of quite as much and more consequence, than keeping it cool at the factory--for milk is often so far advanced in decomposition, if not actually sour or tainted, when received, that it is impossible to work it up satisfactorily. Some Yankee must give us a simple and cheap apparatus that will effect the desired result. Such an invention will greatly improve the quality and increase the consumption and price of American cheese. But, in the absence of anything better, the can set in a tub of water and the milk frequently stirred, would be a great improvement on starting for the factory with hot milk. If the water can be made to constantly run into the tub, fresh and cool, as the warm water runs out, so much the better. Another improvement would be some kind of wagon-cover, permitting the air to pass under it, to keep off the sun in clear weather and keep out the rain in wet weather. The hot rays of the sun, pouring on a can of milk for the distance of two or three miles, perhaps--especially if the milk is not cooled before starting--cannot fail to do it serious injury. Milk thus exposed often has a very offensive smell when it reaches the factory-door. This shows that it is already tainted and in a condition to injure the good milk in the vat into which it is run, and cause a porous or "huffy" curd. The question as to the effect of suddenly cooling milk has been somewhat discussed; also as to how low a temperature is beneficial. Experiments are necessary to definitely and satisfactorily settle these questions. Our impression is that, if ice is not used, there is no danger of cooling milk too suddenly or of getting it too cool. But where ice is used, especially if permitted to come in contact with the milk, or even to be separated from it only by a thickness of tin, there is danger of chilling the particles of milk in immediate contact with the cold surface, and causing them to prematurely decay. This would, of course, injure the keeping qualities of the rest of the batch. So far as the suddenness of the operation is concerned, we doubt if it would have any material effect, one way or the other. But where any portion of the milk is chilled, whether the whole batch of milk be slowly or suddenly reduced in temperature, we should expect it to injure the flavor and keeping qualities of the cheese. Some experiments, like the one made and related by Mr. FARRINGTON, of Canada, at the last Convention of the American Dairymen's Association, would seem to favor the conclusion, that suddenly reducing the milk to a low temperature is unfavorable to the production of the best quality of cheese. More experiments, as we have previously suggested, are necessary to finally settle these questions. But of the importance of cooling milk down to as low a temperature as 60° to 65°, there can be no doubt; and there need be no fear of milk being cooled rapidly enough to injure it where only water is used in the process of cooling. CHAPTER VI. DELIVERING MILK. Very little attention is usually paid to carrying milk to the factory. Too many pour the hot milk into a can standing on a wagon or platform, in the broiling sun, put on the cover, which fits almost air-tight, as soon as through, and then haul it in this condition, without any shelter or protection from the sun's rays, to the factory. It is sometimes drawn two or three miles in this way. Or, as is often the case, it is left standing on the platform, covered air-tight, until the milk-wagon comes along. Whether taken on the wagon at the beginning of the route, or left standing on the platform at the last end of the route, it broils in the sun an hour or two, with the animal heat all in it. If drawn a long distance, it is pretty well churned, in addition, and thus a separation of the butter takes place which no ingenuity of the cheese-maker can remedy; but when the result is seen in the cream rising on the whey-vat, anathemas are heaped on his head. Where the milk stands quiet on the platform, the cream rises and forms an air-tight covering over the top of the milk, which soon taints next to the cream. And whether standing still or riding in a tight can, exposed to the sun's rays, without the animal heat having been expelled, it is scarcely possible to avoid taint. In this way, the manufacturer is furnished with perhaps fifty or seventy-five messes of milk, all more or less tainted, or at least progressed in decomposition, whether any offensive odor is perceptible or not. He has these to cool off and keep over night--often with poor facilities for cooling--for proprietors of factories are too often ignorant of the importance of providing ample means for cooling, or are