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compost they are making. One governmental composting operation that
does succeed in selling everything they can produce is Lane County,
Oregon. Their _yard waste compost_ is eagerly paid for by local
gardeners. Lane County compost is made only from autumn leaves,
grass clippings, and other yard wastes. No paper!
Yard waste compost is a product much like a homeowner would produce.
And yard waste compost contains no industrial waste or any material
that might pose health threats. All woody materials are finely
chipped before composting and comprise no more than 20 percent of
the total undecayed mass by weight. Although no nutrient analysis
has been done by the county other than testing for pH (around 7.0)
and, because of the use of weed and feed fertilizers on lawns, for
2-4D (no residual trace ever found present), I estimate that the
overall C/N of the materials going into the windrows at 25:1. I
wouldn't be surprised if the finished compost has a C/N close to
12:1.
Incidentally, Lane County understands that many gardeners don't have
pickup trucks. They reasonably offer to deliver their compost for a
small fee if at least one yard is purchased. Other local governments
also make and deliver yard waste compost.
So what about your own home compost? If you are a flower,
ornamental, or lawn grower, you have nothing to worry about. Just
compost everything you have available and use all you wish to make.
If tilling your compost into soil seems to slow the growth of
plants, then mulch with it and avoid tilling it in, or adjust the
C/N down by adding fertilizers like seed meal when tilling it in.
If you are a vegetable gardener and your compost doesn't seem to
provoke the kind of growth response you hoped for, either shallowly
till in compost in the fall for next year's planting, by which time
it will have become stable humus, or read further. The second half
of this book contains numerous hints about how to make potent
compost and about how to use complete organic fertilizers in
combination with compost to grow the lushest garden imaginable.
CHAPTER FOUR
All About Materials
In most parts of the country, enough organic materials accumulate
around an average home and yard to make all the compost a backyard
garden needs. You probably have weeds, leaves, perhaps your own
human hair (my wife is the family barber), dust from the vacuum
cleaner, kitchen garbage and grass clippings. But, there may not be
enough to simultaneously build the lushest lawn, the healthiest
ornamentals _and _grow the vegetables. If you want to make more
compost than your own land allows, it is not difficult to find very
large quantities of organic materials that are free or cost very
little.
The most obvious material to bring in for composting is animal
manure. Chicken and egg raisers and boarding stables often give
manure away or sell it for a nominal fee. For a few dollars most
small scale animal growers will cheerfully use their scoop loader to
fill your pickup truck till the springs sag.
As useful as animal manure can be in a compost pile, there are other
types of low C/N materials too. Enormous quantities of loose alfalfa
accumulate around hay bale stacks at feed and grain stores. To the
proprietor this dusty chaff is a nuisance gladly given to anyone
that will neatly sweep it up and truck it away. To the home
gardener, alfalfa in any form is rich as gold.
Some years, rainy Oregon weather is still unsettled at haying season
and farmers are stuck with spoiled hay. I'm sure this happens most
places that grass hay is grown on natural rainfall. Though a shrewd
farmer may try to sell moldy hay at a steep discount by representing
it to still have feed value, actually these ruined bales must be
removed from a field before they interfere with working the land. A
hard bargainer can often get spoiled hay in exchange for hauling the
wet bales out of the field
There's one local farmer near me whose entire family tree holds a
well-deserved reputation for hard, self-interested dealing. One
particularly wet, cool unsettled haying season, after starting the
spoiled-hay dicker at 90 cents per bale asked--nothing offered but
hauling the soggy bales out of the field my offer--I finally agreed
to take away about twenty tons at ten cents per bale. This small sum
allowed the greedy b-----to feel he had gotten the better of me. He
needed that feeling far more than I needed to win the argument or to
keep the few dollars Besides, the workings of self-applied justice
that some religious philosophers call karma show that over the long
haul the worst thing one person can do to another is to allow the
other to get away with an evil act.
Any dedicated composter can make contacts yielding cheap or free
organic materials by the ton. Orchards may have badly bruised or
rotting fruit. Small cider mills, wineries, or a local juice bar
restaurant may be glad to get rid of pomace. Carpentry shops have
sawdust. Coffee roasters have dust and chaff. The microbrewery is
becoming very popular these days; mall-scale local brewers and
distillers may have spent hops and mash. Spoiled product or chaff
may be available from cereal mills.
City governments often will deliver autumn leaves by the ton and
will give away or sell the output of their own municipal composting
operations. Supermarkets, produce wholesalers, and restaurants may
be willing to give away boxes of trimmings and spoiled food. Barbers
and poodle groomers throw away hair.
Seafood processors will sell truckloads of fresh crab, fish and
shrimp waste for a small fee. Of course, this material becomes
evil-smelling in very short order but might be relatively
inoffensive if a person had a lot of spoiled hay or sawdust waiting
to mix into it. Market gardeners near the Oregon coast sheet-compost
crab waste, tilling it into the soil before it gets too "high."
Other parts of the country might supply citrus wastes, sugar cane
bagasse, rice hulls, etc.
About Common Materials
_Alfalfa_ is a protein-rich perennial legume mainly grown as animal
feed. On favorable soil it develops a deep root system, sometimes
exceeding ten feet. Alfalfa draws heavily on subsoil minerals so it
will be as rich or poor in nutrients as the subsoil it grew in. Its
average C/N is around 12:1 making alfalfa useful to compensate for
larger quantities of less potent material. Sacked alfalfa meal or
pellets are usually less expensive (and being "stemmy," have a
slightly higher C/N) than leafy, best-quality baled alfalfa hay.
Rain-spoiled bales of alfalfa hay are worthless as animal feed but
far from valueless to the composter.
Pelletized rabbit feed is largely alfalfa fortified with grain.
Naturally, rabbit manure has a C/N very similar to alfalfa and is
nutrient rich, especially if some provision is made to absorb the
urine.
_Apple pomace_ is wet and compact. If not well mixed with stiff,
absorbent material, large clumps of this or other fruit wastes can
become airless regions of anaerobic decomposition. Having a high
water content can be looked upon as an advantage. Dry hay and
sawdust can be hard to moisten thoroughly; these hydrate rapidly
when mixed with fruit pulp. Fermenting fruit pulp attracts yellow
jackets so it is sensible to incorporate it quickly into a pile and
cover well with vegetation or soil.
The watery pulp of fruits is not particularly rich in nutrients but
apple, grape, and pear pulps are generously endowed with soft,
decomposable seeds. Most seeds contain large quantities of
phosphorus, nitrogen, and other plant nutrients. It is generally
true that plants locate much of their entire yearly nutrient
assimilation into their seeds to provide the next generation with
the best possible start. Animals fed on seeds (such as chickens)
produce the richest manures.
Older books about composting warn about metallic pesticide residues
adhering to fruit skins. However, it has been nearly half a century
since arsenic and lead arsenate were used as pesticides and mercury
is no longer used in fungicides.
_Bagasse_ is the voluminous waste product from extracting cane
sugar. Its C/N is extremely high, similar to wheat straw or sawdust,
and it contains very little in the way of plant nutrients. However,
its coarse, strong, fibrous structure helps build lightness into a
pile and improve air flow. Most sugar mills burn bagasse as their
heat source to evaporate water out of the sugary juice squeezed from
the canes. At one time there was far more bagasse produced than the
mills needed to burn and bagasse often became an environmental
pollutant. Then, bagasse was available for nothing or next to
nothing. These days, larger, modern mills generate electricity with
bagasse and sell their surplus to the local power grid. Bagasse is
also used to make construction fiberboard for subwall and
insulation.
_Banana skins _and stalks are soft and lack strong fiber. They are
moderately rich in phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen. Consequently
they rot quickly. Like other kitchen garbage, banana waste should be
put into the core of a compost pile to avoid attracting and breeding
flies. See also: _Garbage._
_Basic slag_ is an industrial waste from smelting iron. Ore is
refined by heating it with limestone and dolomite. The impurities
combine with calcium and magnesium, rise to the surface of the
molten metal, and are skimmed off. Basic slag contains quite a bit
of calcium plus a variety of useful plant nutrients not usually
found in limestone. Its exact composition varies greatly depending
on the type of ore used.
Slag is pulverized and sold in sacks as a substitute for
agricultural lime. The intense biological activity of a compost pile
releases more of slag's other mineral content and converts its
nutrients to organic substances that become rapidly available once
the compost is incorporated into soil. Other forms of powdered
mineralized rock can be similarly added to a compost pile to
accelerate nutrient release.
Rodale Press, publisher of _Organic Gardening_ magazine is located
in Pennsylvania where steel mills abound. Having more experience
with slag, Rodale advises the user to be alert to the fact that some
contain little in the way of useful nutrients and/or may contain
excessive amounts of sulfur. Large quantities of sulfur can acidify
soil. Read the analysis on the label. Agriculturally useful slag has
an average composition of 40 percent calcium and 5 percent
magnesium. It must also be very finely ground to be effective. See
also: _Lime_ and _Rock dust._
_Beet wastes,_ like bagasse, are a residue of extracting sugar. They
have commercial value as livestock feed and are sold as dry pulp in
feed stores located near regions where sugar beets are grown. Their
C/N is in the vicinity of 20:1 and they may contain high levels of
potassium, reaching as much as 4 percent.
_Brewery wastes._ Both spent hops (dried flowers and leaves) and
malt (sprouted barley and often other grains) are potent nutrient
sources with low C/N ratios. Spent malt is especially potent because
brewers extract all the starches and convert them to sugar, but
consider the proteins as waste because proteins in the brew make it
cloudy and opaque. Hops may be easier to get. Malt has uses as
animal feed and may be contracted for by some local feedlot or
farmer. These materials will be wet, heavy and frutily odoriferous
(though not unpleasantly so) and you will want to incorporate them
into your compost pile immediately.
_Buckwheat hulls._ Buckwheat is a grain grown in the northeastern
United States and Canada. Adapted to poor, droughty soils, the crop
is often grown as a green manure. The seeds are enclosed in a
thin-walled, brown to black fibrous hulls that are removed at a
groat mill. Buckwheat hulls are light, springy, and airy. They'll
help fluff up a compost heap. Buckwheat hulls are popular as a mulch
because they adsorb moisture easily, look attractive, and stay in
place. Their C/N is high. Oat and rice hulls are similar products.
_Canola meal._ See: _Cottonseed meal._
_Castor pomace_ is pulp left after castor oil has been squeezed from
castor bean seeds. Like other oil seed residues it is very high in
nitrogen, rich in other plant nutrients, particularly phosphorus,
Castor pomace may be available in the deep South; it makes a fine
substitute for animal manure.
_Citrus wastes_ may be available to gardeners living near industrial
processors of orange, lemon, and grapefruit. In those regions, dried
citrus pulp may also be available in feed stores. Dried orange skins
contain about 3 percent phosphorus and 27 percent potassium. Lemons
are a little higher in phosphorus but lower in potassium. Fruit
culls would have a similar nutrient ratio on a dry weight basis, but
they are largely water. Large quantities of culls could be useful to
hydrate stubbornly dry materials like straw or sawdust.
Like other byproducts of industrial farming, citrus wastes may
contain significant amounts of pesticide residues. The composting
process will break down and eliminate most toxic organic residues,
especially if the pile gets really hot through and through. (See
also: _Leaves) _The effect of such high levels of potassium on the
nutritional qualities of my food would also concern me if the
compost I was making from these wastes were used for vegetable
gardening.
_Coffee grounds_ are nutrient-rich like other seed meals. Even after
brewing they can contain up to 2 percent nitrogen, about 1/2 percent
phosphorus and varying amounts of potassium usually well below 1
percent. Its C/N runs around 12:1. Coffee roasters and packers need
to dispose of coffee chaff, similar in nutrient value to used
grounds and may occasionally have a load of overly roasted beans.
Coffee grounds seem the earthworm's food of choice. In worm bins,
used grounds are more vigorously devoured than any other substance.
If slight odor is a consideration, especially if doing in-the-home
vermicomposting, coffee grounds should be incorporated promptly into
a pile to avoid the souring that results from vinegar-producing
bacteria. Fermenting grounds may also attract harmless fruit flies.
Paper filters used to make drip coffee may be put into the heap or
worm box where they contribute to the bedding. See also: _Paper._
_Corncobs_ are no longer available as an agricultural waste product
because modern harvesting equipment shreds them and spits the
residue right back into the field. However, home gardeners who fancy
sweet corn may produce large quantities of cobs. Whole cobs will
aerate compost heaps but are slow to decompose. If you want your
pile ready within one year, it is better to dry and then grind the
cobs before composting them.
_Cottonseed meal_ is one of this country's major oil seed residues.
The seed is ginned out of the cotton fiber, ground, and then its oil
content is chemically extracted. The residue, sometimes called oil
cake or seed cake, is very high in protein and rich in NPK. Its C/N
runs around 5:1, making it an excellent way to balance a compost
pile containing a lot of carboniferous materials.
Most cottonseed meal is used as animal feed, especially for beef and
dairy cattle. Purchased in garden stores in small containers it is
very expensive; bought by the 50-to 80-pound sack from feed stores
or farm coops, cottonseed meal and other oil seed meals are quite
inexpensive. Though prices of these types of commodities vary from
year to year, oil cakes of all kinds usually cost between $200 to
$400 per ton and only slightly higher purchased sacked in
less-than-ton lots.
The price of any seed meal is strongly influenced by freight costs.
Cottonseed meal is cheapest in the south and the southwest where
cotton is widely grown. Soybean meal may be more available and
priced better in the midwest. Canadian gardeners are discovering
canola meal, a byproduct from producing canola (or rapeseed) oil.
When I took a sabbatical in Fiji, I advised local gardeners to use
coconut meal, an inexpensive "waste" from extracting coconut oil.
And I would not be at all surprised to discover gardeners in South
Dakota using sunflower meal. Sesame seed, safflower seed, peanut and
oil-seed corn meals may also be available in certain localities.
Seed meals make an ideal starting point for compounding complete
organic fertilizer mixes. The average NPK analysis of most seed
meals is around 6-4-2. Considered as a fertilizer, oil cakes are
somewhat lacking in phosphorus and sometimes in trace minerals. By
supplementing them with materials like bone meal, phosphate rock,
kelp meal, sometimes potassium-rich rock dusts and lime or gypsum, a
single, wide-spectrum slow-release trace-mineral-rich organic
fertilizer source can be blended at home having an analysis of about
5-5-5. Cottonseed meal is particularly excellent for this purpose
because it is a dry, flowing, odorless material that stores well. I
suspect that cottonseed meal from the southwest may be better
endowed with trace minerals than that from leached-out southeastern
soils or soy meal from depleted midwestern farms. See the last
section of Chapter Eight.
Some organic certification bureaucracies foolishly prohibit or
discourage the use of cottonseed meal as a fertilizer. The rationale
behind this rigid self-righteousness is that cotton, being a nonfood
crop, is sprayed with heavy applications of pesticides and/or
herbicides that are so hazardous that they not permitted on food
crops. These chemicals are usually dissolved in an emulsified
oil-based carrier and the cotton plant naturally concentrates
pesticide residues and breakdown products into the oily seed.
I believe that this concern is accurate as far as pesticide residues
being translocated into the seed. However, the chemical process used
to extract cottonseed oil is very efficient The ground seeds are
mixed with a volatile solvent similar to ether and heated under
pressure in giant retorts. I reason that when the solvent is
squeezed from the seed, it takes with it all not only the oil, but,
I believe, virtually all of the pesticide residues. Besides, any
remaining organic toxins will be further destroyed by the biological
activity of the soil and especially by the intense heat of a compost
pile.
What I _personally_ worry about is cottonseed oil. I avoid prepared
salad dressings that may contain cottonseed oil, as well as many
types of corn and potato chips, tinned oysters, and other prepared
food products. I also suggest that you peek into the back of your
favorite Oriental and fast food restaurants and see if there aren't
stacks of ten gallon cottonseed oil cans waiting to fill the
deep-fat fryer. I fear this sort of meal as dangerous to my health.
If you still fear that cottonseed meal is also a dangerous product
then you certainly won't want to be eating feedlot beef or drinking
milk or using other dairy products from cattle fed on cottonseed
meal.
_Blood meal_ runs 10-12 percent nitrogen and contains significant
amounts of phosphorus. It is the only organic fertilizer that is
naturally water soluble. Blood meal, like other slaughterhouse
wastes, may be too expensive for use as a compost activator.
Sprinkled atop soil as a side-dressing, dried blood usually provokes
a powerful and immediate growth response. Blood meal is so potent
that it is capable of burning plants; when applied you must avoid
getting it on leaves or stems. Although principally a source of
nitrogen, I reason that there are other nutritional substances like
growth hormones or complex organic "phytamins" in blood meal.
British glasshouse lettuce growers widely agree that lettuce
sidedressed with blood meal about three weeks before harvest has a
better "finish," a much longer shelf-life, and a reduced tendency to
"brown butt" compared to lettuce similarly fertilized with urea or
chemical nitrate sources.
_Feathers_ are the birds' equivalent of hair on animals and have
similar properties. See _Hair_
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