THE ART AND MYSTERY OF CURING, PRESERVING, AND POTTING ALL KINDS OF MEATS, GAME, AND FISH TEXT

throw them into a tubful of salt and water and brush them _thoroughly_, then wash in pure water and put them into boiling water to be cooked; then take them up and lay them to get cold; pull off the claws and put the large shells into a slow oven after having run off any water that may have collected in them, and when no more steam arises from the slow drying, set them also to get cold. Take all the meat out of the claws, pick out very carefully all the little skins and strings, cut it into dice and pound it in a mortar with clarified butter until of a nice plastic mass, which cover up in a cloth. Now attack the body shells, pick out all the solid meat, and, setting the coral aside, throw out all the skins and refuse you can find, and beat up this also with best Durham mustard, as for the table, some cayenne, chillie vinegar, and table salt. Place some of this at the bottom of each pot, and having ready this seasoning, mix what is requisite with the meat from the claws: Mace 1 oz. Cloves 1½ oz. Nutmeg 1 oz. Bay leaf 1 oz. Table salt 6 oz. White pepper 2 oz. Work this well into the mass, and having put a portion of the hard coral into each pot, fill up with the seasoned claw meat. Set the pots in a slow oven to evaporate what moisture you can, then set aside and when cold pour clarified butter plentifully over, which, when cold, must again be covered with writing paper. If your ingredients were genuine, your butter sweet, and well managed, and the fish of prime quality, you will have a choice or rare preparation of these generally admired fish. SIDE OF VENISON COLLARED. As this sort of animal food can only be got at one season of the year, I recommend any person who is fond of good eating at a moderate cost, to get the two sides or flitches of a prime fat buck, and cure them in the two different ways herein described, with full assurance that the result will be perfectly satisfactory. Take a side and hang it up in a free current of air as long as ever you can trust it, wiping it daily with a coarse cloth, and dusting it over, particularly the fat parts, with ground black pepper, to prevent the flies settling on it. With a sharp knife take off the outer skin, and, removing all sinews, bone it nicely; divide it next into pieces fit for collars, that is, so that when rolled up the ends may be level and firm. Rub vinegar well over the meat and leave it packed closely in a deep dish and covered up till the next day. Make ready a mixture of Mace, in fine powder 1 oz. Cloves, in fine powder 2 oz. Nutmeg, in fine powder 1 oz. White pepper, in fine powder 2 oz. Bay salt ¾ lb. Common or rock salt ½ lb. Bay leaves, shred 3 oz. and with this rub the meat, which should have been dried with cloths well, and pack them down to lie forty-eight hours. Then take them up, and cutting slices of hard fat bacon, half an inch wide and six or eight inches long, insert them in channels cut in the venison and about two and a half inches apart; this should be done with consummate nicety. Now roll up the meat into collars and bind tightly with broad tape, and sew strong unbleached calico all round the length. Lay paper shavings in the bottom of a deep straight-sided jar, and upon them six or eight laurel leaves and twice as many bay leaves, and place the collars lightly upon them, then pouring in half a pint of water, tie doubled paper over the jar and bake slowly for three hours at least, or until nicely cooked; then while warm pour off the gravy into a basin to get cold, and taking out the collars set them to drain all night. Next day, after wiping them dry, place the rolls of meat in a jar that will just hold them without squeezing, and pour clarified mutton suet with sweet lard in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of the latter to twelve ounces of the former, and when cold covering the meat to the thickness of two inches. Tie wet bladder over and put away in a cold airy room. This should not be broached under two months, and then by placing the jar in a pan of boiling water for twenty minutes you can take out a collar and put away the jar, taking care that the meat is totally covered by the suet and made safe from the air. Pop the collar into a saucepan of boiling water and salt for fifteen minutes, then take it out, wipe it dry, and when nearly cold take off the envelopes and set it by till next day. Serve it garnished with fresh parsley and slices of lemon or pickled red beetroot, which two latter may be eaten with it, and then I think you will confess that this “common part of venison” is very first-rate eating. THE OTHER SIDE SMOKED. Proceed as with the former side, and having rubbed it well with vinegar, make a mixture of Allspice, ground 3 oz. Black pepper, ground 2 oz. Eschalots, minced 2½ oz. Garlic, minced 1½ oz. Bay salt ¾ lb. Coarse sugar ¾ lb. Bay leaves 2 oz. and rub all parts thoroughly, and let them lie placed down in a deep pan for forty-eight hours; then take them up, wipe dry and lard them well with shreds of the best sweet fat bacon and roll up tightly into collars, which bind with tape and envelope in calico or thin canvas, and stow them away in a deep jar that will hold them conveniently till the next day. Boil up the used spices, herbs, and salts with as much porter as you think will cover the meat, well skimming it till no more scum arises, and pour it hot over the meat; so let it remain covered with leather for a week. Then hang up the collars in a draught of air, minding to turn them every morning regularly, or the neglect is certain to be detected when brought to table. Next suspend them in your chimney, and smoke them for a fortnight with Oak lops or sawdust 2 parts Beech chips 2 parts Fern 1 part Peat 1 part When cold you can coat them with gelatine composition and keep them in malt cooms. Slices cut off these collars and broiled will be excellent in three months, or, if you choose to boil them and eat cold, take care they are put on the fire in ready boiling water, as we do not want venison broth. (See Note, No. 10.) YOUNG PIG COLLARED. Your porkman having supplied you with a short, round pig, say about ten to twelve weeks old, the neck taken off close up to the shoulders and split down the back, you will proceed to take out the bones and gristles and wash it five minutes in salt and water, then wipe dry and rub the following mixture―― Mace, beaten finely ½ oz. Cloves, beaten finely 1 oz. Nutmeg, beaten finely 1 oz. Pepper, beaten finely 1 oz. Salt, beaten finely 1½ lbs. ――in all parts well, and let them lie pressed closely for twenty-four hours, then take them up, wipe dry, roll the one half up into a collar, with tape and new linen, and boil it in a pickle made by boiling up the former used spices――adding thereto Six laurel leaves, green Twelve bay leaves Vinegar 1 pint Ginger, beaten coarsely 1 oz. Bay salt ¾ oz. ――until tender. Examine the collars when nearly cold, and tighten the binding if requisite. Cut them through, in the middle, straight across, put each roll into a jar just capable of holding it; boil up the pickle again, adding vinegar and porter, if not enough to cover your meat completely; tie bladder over and keep a month, when it will be very rich, yet delicate. The pickle must have been well skimned and all fat removed from it. The other half may be thus treated, making an agreeable change, though this latter will be much higher flavoured: Proceed as with the last, until having rolled it up in a nice tight collar, you will make this pickle: Sage leaves, shred ½ handful Capsicums, mixed ½ oz. Juniper berries, bruised 1 oz. Six laurel leaves, shred Garlic, shred ½ oz. Porter or ale 1 quart Salt ½ lb. Boil these twenty minutes, skim well and pour over the meat, placed in a deep jar that will just hold it, and tying leather over let it remain three weeks. Then take it up, wipe dry, hang it in a current of dry air for a week, turning it daily, and smoke it with Oak lops or sawdust 2 parts Fern 2 parts Beech or birch chips 2 parts for three weeks. When cold you can coat it with gelatine, or if packed with hams, tongues, &c. &c., in malt cooms, will be a high, much esteemed article, after being kept a month or two to become mellow. Care must be taken in the broiling, as the meat will be extremely rich and tender. POTTED HARE. A large one is generally chosen for this purpose, although you run the risk of its not being tender; but since flavour is the essential here, we must guard against the toughness by hanging it with the skin on, and not opened for a fortnight if it came to hand quite fresh killed. A stuffing should be made of Best salt butter ½ lb. Grated bread. 1 lb. Thyme, in powder ½ oz. Marjorum, in powder ½ oz. Lemon thyme, in powder ¾ oz. and the hare stuffed and basted as if for the parlour or dining-room. Here, before the meat is cold, it should be separated from the bones and well picked over, then, with clarified butter at hand, it must be pounded well till of a nice stiff paste, and then seasoned with Mace, in powder ½ oz. Cloves, in powder ¾ oz. Nutmegs, in powder ¾ oz. Red currant jelly, liquefied 1 teacupful Port wine 1 teacupful When these are well blended with the mass, you may fill pots and jars, and proceed as usual with clarified butter to cover, and writing paper over the pots. POTTED MOOR GAME. It is absolutely necessary that the greatest nicety prevails in the picking and dressing of these species of game, and we shall leave that to the poulterer and the cook, and only offer our advice as to the different ingredients most acceptable as seasonings. Moor game will bear hanging longer, and must not be overdone with fire, as they possess a flavour well worth keeping. Season your birds with Cloves 1 oz. Mace ½ oz. Cayenne ¾ oz. Table salt 6 oz. Bay leaves 2 oz. and roast them a nice brown. Their heads, which in general are made to be seen protruding, should be glazed, and the pots just nicely adapted to contain one bird each. Clarified butter must wholly cover the body and half an inch above. Writing paper, pasted on, covers all. POTTED SNIPES AND WOODCOCKS. We see so many of these delicious birds now-a-days, particularly at our seaports opposite to the Continent, that we are reminded of the great gratifications of former days, when such things were not purchaseable, as to induce us to embrace the opportunity of preserving some. The trails must not be drawn, but the picking and dressing must be done effectually. Affix the bills to the thighs by skewers, the feet being brought on to the breasts, season inside rather highly with Cayenne pepper ½ oz. Table salt 6 oz. Mace 1 oz. Bay leaves 2 oz. Place your birds in a straight-sided jar, with the best salt butter well washed, and bake slowly until done enough. Then pour off the butter, put the birds singly into pots, and next day clarify the used butter, adding more. Cover well and finish with writing paper pasted over. POTTED TROUT. Where the natural flavour of this delicious fish can be retained it is worth while potting them, and _vice versâ_. (See Note, No. 9.) From half a pound to one and a half pounds weight each fish, will be the best size for this preparation. Their freshness is insisted upon, or better to let them alone. Scale your fish, cut off the heads, tails, and fins, open them at the belly and wipe out clean, scatter good moist sugar over the inside of the fish, and bring the sides of them together again, pack them the backs downwards side by side, and let them lie till the next day. Then take Bay leaves, in fine powder 1 oz. Laurel leaves, shred 1 oz. Mace, in fine powder ½ oz. Nutmeg, in fine powder 1 oz. White pepper, in fine powder 2 oz. Table salt, in fine powder 6 oz. Mix these well together and season the fish plentifully inside and out with it, lay them flat in a dish, cover with a coarse meal crust and bake them in a slow oven. Pour off the gravy while warm and let the fish remain till next day. Then cut your trout into pieces adapted to your pots, fill them, and pour clarified butter over to cover well, and if for long keeping at least an half inch thick above the fish. Next day, if all seem firm and safe, paste writing paper over and put away in a cool airy room. POTTED EELS. Provided the fish are fresh we shall not refuse any size for this purpose, from nine ounces to a pound each. They must be divested of their skins, heads, tails, and fins, and opened at the belly from the head down to the tail end. Clear all rubbish away, and at once wash them a minute or two in salt and water, and dry with cloths. Dust best flour over them and put them away, while you prepare a pickle of Bay leaves, shred 1½ oz. Laurel leaves 1½ oz. Marjorum 2 oz. Thyme 1 oz. For ten pounds of eels: Bay salt or rock 1½ lb. Coarse sugar ½ lb. Porter ½ pint Beer ½ pint Lay your fish in a deep dish, previously cut into pieces three inches long, or less, according to shape of your pots; with alternate layers of seasoning, cover all close down and let lie twenty-four hours, and if thick somewhat longer. When all are pickled, wash them through salt and water, dry with cloths, and dusting them with flour, fry them in boiling olive oil a nice brown colour, and put them as done to drain and get cold. Next day lay a pinch of crushed or shred chillies inside each piece of fish, and lay them into white pots, cover well with best butter clarified, and all over the tops thickly. Replenish next day if any has been absorbed, and make all safe with bladder. These will be much liked with wine. POTTED SHRIMPS. Whether you are about to pot a large or a small quantity of shrimps, and wish them to be “got up” in good style, and calculated to keep well, I must desire you to boil your own fish at home. This done, get them picked quickly as possible, then examine well that no skins or filaments remain, spread them out in clean dishes, and evaporate the moisture by a cool oven and attention, and will be only just accomplished when no two fish are found sticking together. Season them according to your own taste with this mixture: Mace, in finest powder ½ oz. Cloves, in finest powder 1 oz. Table salt, in finest powder 1 lb. Sifted loaf sugar 6 oz. White pepper 2 oz. All these must have been well dried, mixed, and sifted finely. Your pots must be particularly clean and dry, and the sooner they are filled with the fish the better. Press down the fish in the pots and dry them in a cool oven, but not to brown them. Set them aside to get cold, _not damp_, and cover well with best butter nicely clarified, and paste writing paper over the tops of the pots. POTTED BEEF, AS HARE. Get half a dozen pounds of fine beef skirts, hang them up in dry air for a week, or in hard weather for ten days, then beat them well with a paste pin, take off the skin and lay them down in a deep earthen pot, without cutting, and rub them well on both sides with Jamaica pepper 1 oz. Eschalots, minced ½ oz. Thyme, in powder 1 oz. Marjorum, in powder 1 oz. Coarse sugar 1 lb. Bay salt 1 lb. and let them lie six days, being turned every day. Then take them up, wipe dry, and cut into pieces; lay them in a deep straight-sided jar, with a pound of the best salt butter dispersed in little lumps here and there between them, subject this to the action of a water bath until the meat is tender. You can raise the heat of the boiling water which surrounds the jar, by adding plenty of salt to it, by eight deg. Fahr. Then while hot pour off the gravy and set the meat in a dish to go cold. Next day take off the butter and fat from the gravy, cut your meat into dice, take out the films and strings, and with the butter and pounding bring the meat into a nice plastic consistence. If your hare is to be very highly flavoured you may add more thyme and cayenne. Now fill your pots and cover well with clarified butter, and again with wetted bladder. POTTED NEATS’ TONGUES. Unless the tongues were cured according to your own receipts, you cannot tell how to treat them for potting. I shall therefore consider that you have been under the necessity of purchasing some out of the pickle tub of the butcher, which, generally speaking, are not remarkable for excellence as regards flavour, and please observe that neats’ tongues have no piquant flavour of their own, it is always created by the curer. Take two tongues of seven or eight pounds each, boil them as usual, and rather underdone; take off the peel and extra root, gullet, and two and a half inches of the extreme tip, cut them into slices one inch thick, and lay them down in a jar, with Molasses 1 lb. Jamaica pepper 1 oz. Garlic, minced ½ oz. Shalots, minced 1 oz. Bay leaves, in powder 1 oz. Four laurel leaves Bay salt ½ lb. Porter, or old ale ½ pint These must be simmered half an hour and put into the jar hot, then cover close with paper and let remain in a week; then take up and wash the meat quickly with water half a pint, and vinegar half a pint, cut