THE ART OF PRESERVING ALL KINDS OF ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES TEXT

summer, a considerable stock of this foreign commodity for syrups, liqueurs and confectionary, as well as all the objects of pharmacy, may dispense with it; for it will be sufficient if they lay in an adequate stock of fruit in the season, and prepare it in the manner pointed out, to be exempt from the necessity of preparing it with sugar, except on an emergency, and in the quantities actually wanted. It will follow that the greater part of all these fruits will be preserved, altogether without, or at least with a small quantity of sugar; that many of them will be prepared with grape syrup, and that the sugar from the cane will be made use of only for indispensable objects, or to comply with the old habits, and gratify the luxury of a few. It will follow, that in a plentiful year, sugar will not be necessary in order to provide against a scanty season; and that, with a slight expence, the same enjoyment will be derived from the preserved produce of two, three, and four years, as from a year of plenty. § LVI. _Chesnuts, Truffles, Mushrooms._ On taking the chesnuts out of the vessel in which they have been preserved, I plunge them in cold water, sprinkle them with a little fine salt, and roast them in a pan over a quick fire. In this manner they are excellent. The moistening them and the putting salt upon them may be dispensed with, but they must always be roasted over a quick fire. I make the same use of preserved truffles and mushrooms, as of those recently gathered. § LVII. _Grape Juice, or Must._ When I made my first experiments of preserving grape juice in its fresh state, I was unacquainted with Mr. Parmentier’s “_Information concerning the means of furnishing a substitute for sugar, in the principal uses made of it in medicine and domestic economy_.”[Q] It is this valuable information which supplied me with the means of availing myself of fresh experiments, and making use of two hundred bottles of grape-juice preserved by me six months before. [Q] “_L’instruction sur les moyens de suppléer le sucre dans les principaux usages qu’on en fait pour la médecine et l’économie domestique_; _par_ M. PARMENTIER.” 1st. I made very good grape syrup, following the process of Mr. Parmentier, which is literally as follows. _Preparation of Grape Syrup._ “You take twenty-four [French] pints of grape juice and put one half of it in a boiler placed on the fire, with the precaution of not suffering it to boil with too much force. You add fresh juice as that in the boiler evaporates; you skim it and stir the surface, to add to the evaporation. When the whole of the juice has been put into the boiler, you skim it, you take the boiler off the fire, and add some lye-ashes tied up in a cloth, or whiting (_blanc d’Espagne_, Spanish, or Troy-white), or chalk reduced to a powder, and first diluted in a little grape juice, until it no longer effervesces, or, as it were, boils in the liquor which was shaken. “By these means, the acid contained in the grape, is separated and neutralized. In order to try the liquor, put blue paper into it, and when it does not turn red, then you may be satisfied that the liquor is no longer acid. Replace the boiler on the fire, after having let it settle an instant, and put in two whites of beaten eggs. Strain the liquor through a woollen cloth, fixed on a wooden frame of twelve or fifteen square inches, so that it occupies little room; then boil again, and continue the evaporation. “In order to know whether the syrup be sufficiently condensed, let some drop from a spoon upon a plate: if the drop falls without spirting or spreading, or if when divided, the halves run into each other again but slowly, then you may infer that it has acquired the proper consistency. “Pour it into an earthen vessel which is not varnished; and when completely cold, transfer it to vessels of a moderate size, neat, dry, and well corked; and placed it in the cellar. A bottle once opened, should not remain long only half filled; and when you make use of it, take care to hold the neck downwards. “It is hardly possible to determine precisely, the quantity of chalk or ashes necessary to be used. Less is required in the South than in the North, but at all events, more than is necessary will do no harm, since it remains upon the straining cloth with the other insoluble salts and the skim. “If in order to preserve these syrups for a longer time, you were to carry on the boiling too long, you would find yourself mistaken; for the syrup would not fail to chrystalize at the bottom of the vessel, while the body would become thin: on the other hand, if the syrup were not sufficiently evaporated, it would soon ferment. A housekeeper who has made these syrups twice, will have learnt the degree of boiling which ought to be given to the syrup, better than can be taught her by rule.” _Syrups and Ratafies._ With this same syrup, I have prepared preserves, confectionary, syrups and beverages, as well as liqueurs and ratafies of all the kinds of fruit I have spoken of. 2d. I made syrup of the same grape juice and by the same process, except that I boiled the latter but slightly, that is, one quarter less than the former; as I wished to satisfy myself whether it would be preserved by the application of heat to the water-bath, in the way before pointed out. Having prepared my syrup, I put it when cold, into three half bottles; one full, and the other a quarter empty. I corked and sealed the bottles, and let them remain in the water-bath only till it boiled, &c. I remarked no difference in the full and half full bottles, and all three were completely preserved. 3d. I took six pints of preserved grape juice, to which I added two pints of good old proof brandy, and also two pounds of grape syrup, which I had prepared. This preparation which I mixed well, I made use of to compose four kinds of liqueur, by means of infusions of apricot-kernels, mint, orange flower, badian, which I had prepared before: these liqueurs having been well strained, were found very good, and sufficiently sweet. 4th. I took two bottles of preserved grape juice, which I poured into two other fit bottles. I corked and tied these bottles, and left them standing upright ten days. During this interval, the liquor caused its cork to burst, like the best Champagne wine, and mantled in the same way. 5th. I repeated this last experiment in the same manner. At the end of twelve or fifteen days, observing no appearance of fermentation in the bottles, I uncorked them in order to let in the air, and I then put into them a table spoonful of preserved raspberry juice. Having re-corked and sealed them, I let them remain eight days longer upright. At the end of that time, both the white and the red juice (_le blanc et le rosé_) caused the cork to spring out. They mantled completely, and were very agreeable to the taste, particularly the red, perfumed with raspberry. After these experiments made of the _Massy_ grape [in the department of _Seine and Oise_], it is more than probable that in the fine vineyards of the South, infinitely more precious results will be drawn from the making use of this method. Grape juice will be preserved there, in order, by congelation, to reduce it at will, to the consistence of syrup, after having taken away its acid for the sweet syrup; or if the juice be condensed over the fire, the quantity of boiling made use of for condensing the syrup, will, by the operation of heat in the water-bath in any preparatory process, be rendered immaterial for the preservation of the syrup for several years.[R] [R] The original is more precise, and refers to an instrument made use of in France for ascertaining the density of liquors, an Aræometer, which, at least in its application to grape syrup, is unknown in this country: the words are, “_les degrés de cuisson de 25, 30, ou 33 à l’aréométre, devient indifférent pour conserver ces sirups_,” _&c. T._ By means of this process, which is easy to be put in practice, and of little expence in the execution, syrups may be obtained clear and white (even when produced from black grapes), and of a pure sweetness, free from a certain flavour of molasses and burnt sugar, from which it has not hitherto been found possible to exempt grape syrup, when boiled in the ordinary mode, sufficient for its preservation. Thus this precious production, preserved in bottles and vessels of every size, may be transported to a great distance and in all seasons, coming from Bergerac, Mèze, and all the manufactories of the South, to improve the produce of our small vineyards, and make all classes of society share in the enjoyment of this useful resource. § LVIII. _General Observations._ From this detail of experiments, it is obvious that this new method of preserving animal and vegetable substance, proceeds from the simple principle of applying heat in a due degree to the several substances, after having deprived them as much as possible of all contact with the external air. It might on the first view of the subject be thought that a substance, either raw or previously acted upon by fire, and afterwards put into bottles, might, if a vacuum were made in those bottles and they were completely corked, be preserved equally well with the application of heat in the water-bath. This would be an error, for all the trials I have made have convinced me that the absolute privation of the contact of external air (the internal air being rendered of no effect by the action of heat), and the application of heat by means of the water-bath, are both indispensable to the complete preservation of alimentary substances. My object is not like that of the Bourdeaux chymists, to disunite the component parts of the animal substance, and obtain the animal jelly in a separate state, as well as the animal fibre, free from its juice, and so made to resemble tanned leather. Neither is it my endeavour to furnish at a great expence, as in the preparation of portable soup, a tenacious paste or glue, better adapted to derange the stomach than to provide it with a salutary nourishment. My problem is, to preserve all nutritive substances with all their peculiar and constituent qualities. My experiments prove that I have resolved this problem.[S] [S] Some persons of enlightened understandings, but who have, perhaps, delivered themselves over to the spirit of system and prejudice, have declared themselves against my method, alleging a pretended impossibility. But is it then difficult on the principles of a sound, natural philosophy, to assign a reason for the preservation of alimentary substance by my process? May we not infer, that the application of _caloric_, or heat, to the water-bath, operates in producing a gentle fusion of the constituent fermenting principles, so as to destroy the predominating agency of fermentation? This agency is an essential condition of fermentation, at least of its taking place with a certain promptitude. Further, there is no fermentation without air; this being also excluded by my method, we have two assignable causes for its success; the theory of which appears to flow naturally from the means practically employed. Indeed, if we refer to any of the methods made use of and any of the experiments and observations of ancient and modern times, upon the preservation of alimentary substances, with which we are acquainted, we shall find that _fire_ is every where the principal agent, either in the natural duration, or in the artificial preservation of vegetable and animal substances. _Fabroni_ has proved that heat applied to grape juice or must, destroys the fermentation of this _vegeto-animal_, which is pre-eminently _leaven_. _Thenard_ has made like experiments on cherries, gooseberries, and other fruits. The experiments of the late _Vilaris_, and of Mr. _Cazalès_, learned chymists at Bourdeaux, who have dried meat by means of stoves, equally prove that the application of heat destroys the agents of putrefaction. Drying, boiling, evaporating, as well as the caustic and savoury substances which are employed in the preservation of alimentary productions, all serve to shew that caloric in its various modes of application, produces the same effects. It is to the solution of this problem that I have devoted my fortune and twenty years of labour and meditation. Happy that I have already been able to render service to my fellow citizens and humanity, I rely on the justice, generosity and intelligence of a wise government, which never fails to encourage useful discoveries. That government will perceive that the inventor of this method of preservation could not obtain from the invention itself an indemnification for his labour and expence. The chief importance of this process lies in its subservience to the wants of civil and military hospitals, and particularly of the Navy. It is in these departments of the public service that my process may be employed in a manner advantageous to the state, and it is from them that I may receive the just reward of my labours. I expect every thing from the beneficent views of the minister, and my expectations will not be disappointed. § LIX. _Practical Remarks._ The bottles and other vessels of every kind fit for the preservation of alimentary substances will occasion but a very slight expence at one time. They may be always used again, if care be taken to rince them as soon as they are empty; good corks, string and wire are not expensive. As soon as the method is known, proper bottles and jars will be met with at the manufacturers, corks of every size and properly prepared for use will be furnished by the cork-cutters, as well as iron-wire fit for use. It will be always adviseable to procure corks before bottles, and in that case no other bottles need be purchased than such as may have necks suited to the size of the corks, for I have been often unable to procure corks of such a size as I could wish. The glass-houses of _la Garre_, _Sèves_, and _des Prémontrés_ near _Courcy-le-Château_, are already accustomed to the manufactory of corks and jars necessary for the preserving process. I am most satisfied with the latter, which has served me for the last four years. Good corking depends only on a little practice. It will suffice to cork a dozen bottles with care and exactness, in order to familiarize a person with the method. Every day, wine and liquors are bottled and transported by land and water to the remotest places. Even glass vessels containing from forty to eighty _litres_ in measure have been sent to a great distance full of oil of vitriol and other liquids. It will be the same with animal and vegetable productions, preserved in glass bottles or jars, when sufficient care and attention shall be given them. This is the principal thing required. How many rich liquors and other substances would be better preserved which are either lost or spoiled for want of being well corked! No one will doubt, after all the experiments I have detailed, that the adoption of this new method, which, as may be seen, unites the greatest economy to a perfection unlooked for till the present time, will secure the following advantages. 1. That of considerably diminishing the consumption of sugar, the produce of the cane, and of giving the greatest extension to the manufactories of grape syrup. 2. That of preserving for use in all countries and all seasons, a number of alimentary and medicinal productions, which being very abundant in some places at certain seasons, are therefore wasted, being considered as of no value; while the same substances, under other circumstances, being much wanted, become of double and even four-fold value; and sometimes cannot be procured at any price, such as butter and eggs. 3. That of procuring for civil and military hospitals, and even for the armies the most valuable assistance, the details of which would be superfluous here. But the great advantage of this method consists principally in its application to the service of the Navy. It will supply fresh and wholesome provisions for his majesty’s vessels on long voyages with a saving of more than fifty per cent. Mariners will in case of illness be furnished with broth, various and cooling beverages, vegetables and fruits; in a word, they will be able to partake of a number of alimentary and medicinal substances, which will alone be sufficient to prevent or cure the diseases contracted at Sea, more especially the worst of them all, the scurvy. These advantages eminently merit the public attention when we reflect that salted provisions, and, above all, their bad qualities, have caused the loss of more lives at Sea than shipwrecks and naval engagements. 4. Medicine will find in this method the means of relieving humanity, by the facility of meeting every where, and in all seasons, animal substances, and all kinds of vegetables, as well as their juices, preserved with all their natural qualities and virtues: by the same means it will obtain resources infinitely precious in the production of distant regions, preserved in their fresh state. 5. From this method will arise a new branch of industry, relative to the productions of France, by their circulation through the interior, and the exportation abroad, of the produce with which nature has blessed the different countries. 6. This method will facilitate the exportation of the wine of many vineyards: wine which can scarcely be kept a year, even when not removed from the spot, may hereafter be preserved many years though sent abroad. Finally, this invention cannot fail to enlarge the domain of Chymistry, and become the common benefit of all countries, which will derive the most precious fruits from it. So many advantages, and an infinity of others which the imagination of the reader will easily conceive, produced by one and the same cause, are a source of astonishment. SOCIETY FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL INDUSTRY. _Paris, 7th April, 1809._ THE SECRETARY OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL INDUSTRY, TO MR. APPERT, PROPRIETOR AT MASSY. _Sir_, _I have the pleasure to transmit to you a copy of the Report made to the_ Société d’Encouragement, _by Messrs. Guyton-Morveau, Parmentier, and Bouriat, on your preserved vegetable and animal substances. Nothing can be added to the judgment passed by the Committee upon your discovery. They announce, that it has not been in their power to make any experiments, either sufficiently exact, or continued for a sufficient length of time, to enable them to verify to what extent the substances prepared by you may be preserved; but what they have themselves observed, suffices to enable them to form an opinion to which they were previously disposed, by the numerous and decisive testimonies which attest your success._ _The Society are of opinion that they are rendering a service to the country and humanity, when they make known so useful a discovery with the eulogies which it merits. Their desire will be accomplished, should their suffrage determine the public to make use of your productions, and so contribute to confer upon you the just rewards of your labours._ _Accept, Sir, the assurance of the perfect respect with which I have the honour to salute you._ _MATH. MONTMORENCY_, _Secretary, &c._ EXTRACT FROM THE PROCÈS-VERBAL OF THE SITTING OF THE COUNCIL OF ADMINISTRATION, WEDNESDAY, 15TH MARCH, 1809. _Report made by Mr. Bouriat, in the name of a Special Committee, on Vegetable and Animal Substances, preserved by_ MR. APPERT. The council referred to a committee, consisting of Messrs. Guyton-Morveau, Parmentier, and myself, the examination of vegetable and animal substances presented by Mr. Appert, and preserved by his process, for more than eight months. These substances were, 1. _Pot-au-feu_ [a standing French dish of boiled meat, fowls, &c.]