THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
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r score of the favourite sorts of Peas or Beans grown to-day with the same number of favourites of half or even a quarter of a century since will at once prove that progress in horticu
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lly touch up the sides to make them neat and tidy. It is usual at the same time to dig and manure the alleys, but this practice we object to _in toto_, because it tends directly to the
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enhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in precisely the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is convenient in cases where heavy water-logged ground precludes o
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y where fine specimens of long Beet were rarely obtainable. From this same unkind clay it is possible to secure good crops of long Beets, by making deep holes with a dibber a foot apar
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r and early spring. Sow in April and the plants may be treated in the same way as other hardy winter greens. They should have the most liberal culture possible, for which they will not
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finish the crop. Radishes and other small things can be grown on the same bed. In cold frames seed may be sown in February. Warm Borders.—In March the first sowings on warm borders i
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to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put out in the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but as the season advances the trenches must be less deep.
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regards watering, the important point is to employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame read
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Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April. Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally ob
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with a somewhat nutty tendency, and may be prepared for table in the same manner. Kohl Rabi is cultivated in much the same way as Turnips. Seed may be sown at any time from March to
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than the favourites of years gone by. The Melon is grown in much the same way as the Cucumber, but it differs in requiring a firmer soil, a higher temperature, a much stronger light,
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nd renewing the soil periodically. The details of cultivation are the same within doors as without, but the roof gives valuable protection, and helps to maintain the beds at a suitable
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ns, intended for use in the following summer, may also be sown in the same way as advised for spring sowing. The time of sowing is important, as the plants should be forward enough bef
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it will be found good practice to grow Peas and early Potatoes on the same plot, and to put short sticks to the Peas as soon as they are forward enough. By this management the first to
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e to cover the tops with a few inches of light dry litter in just the same way that a bed of Radishes is protected. There are many other methods of saving the rising shaws. A plank on
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taken up and stored in sand. These Radishes may also be cooked in the same manner as Turnips and they make an excellent dish. RHUBARB Rheum hybridum RHUBARB is so much valued that w
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which will form the crowns for cutting in the following year. At the same time take away any small blanched shoots that may have been left because they were too small or insignificant
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. It is a better plan to make a small plantation annually, and at the same time destroy an old plantation that has served its turn. But we are bound to say that Strawberry plantations,
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ills twelve to fifteen inches apart, three inches deep, and about the same width, and almost fill them with rotten manure, or with a mixture of earth and guano, or wood ashes; cover th
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r the structure may be, the mode of culture remains substantially the same in any case. Now, as to soil, a compost made of mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal parts will be effec
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c.—So far as seed sowing is concerned, Celeriac may be treated in the same way as Celery. Celery.—For the earliest supply, sow on the first of the month a pinch of seed of one or more
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and from the syringe. But the water employed should always be of the same temperature as the bed. This is easily managed by keeping a full can standing with the plants. In large frame
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must be done in a systematic manner, and if practicable always by the same person. It is better to cut all the shoots as fast as they attain a proper size, and sort them for use accord
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demands of the kitchen constant. Crowding, however, is not quite the same thing as overcrowding, and it is only a waste of labour, land and crop to put the plants so close together th
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pose, then, that we grow Cabbage, or Cauliflower, or Broccoli, on the same plot of ground, one crop following the other for a long series of years, and never refresh the soil with manu
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at it may be kept from being dissipated in the atmosphere, and at the same time be always in a state in which it can be appropriated by the plant. In all good manures, however, there i
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soda 5 lb. superphosphate 1 lb. sulphate of potash LEEKS require the same fertilisers as Onions, but will need little or no nitrate if good dung is used. POTATO.—For good yield, high
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final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks,
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have a good chance from the first. Tender Annuals.—These require the same general treatment as advised for half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat than is ne
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ay be stored for their season of rest, allowing them to remain in the same pots. They can be put away in a dry cellar, or on the ground, covered up with sand, in any shed or frame wher
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of which _C. profusa_ (_Clibrani_) is the most popular, that bear the same relation to the Large-flowered Calceolaria as the Star Cineraria does to the Florist’s Cineraria. In point of
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named. Star Cinerarias (_C. stellata_) are grown under precisely the same conditions as the Florists’ or Show Cinerarias, and this type of flower is highly valued for its singular gra
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them; therefore it is advisable to plant Lettuces plentifully at the same time, or previously, on the same ground, and to dust around the Dahlias with lime. Insert at least one stake,
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rainage will do something towards preventing this. Another aid in the same direction is to cover the seed with a layer of sand, and the sand with a thin coating of ordinary potting soi
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from seed in spring. Sow in heat in March and April, and treat in the same manner as Balsams until the time arrives for planting out. A rich sandy loam suits them, and they like full e
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ity of exposure should be lost. In raising Petunias for bedding, the same conditions are applicable; but as it is useless to put them into the open ground until the weather is warm an
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LIAM Dianthus barbatus. Hardy biennial Sweet William belongs to the same genus as the Pink. The finest strains produce superb heads of flowers, some of them intensely rich in colour,
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humblest amateur to employ freely in his borders and beds, and at the same time so effective in its colouring as to be adapted for the most complex and highly finished examples of geom
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, both for its foliage and flowers. It does not resent forcing to the same extent as the Ranunculus; nevertheless, cool treatment is almost essential to do it full justice. The potting
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oo much damp, often causes the loss of the bulb. Besides growing the same plants from year to year, it is always desirable to have a fresh stock coming on, as the old bulbs may deteri
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y in spring. If carefully managed, they may remain two seasons in the same pots. Use the 48-size, and plant four or five bulbs in each. A dry, deep, sandy border under a wall in any of
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when the blossoms begin to open this must be discontinued, and at the same time the heat should be diminished. A succession of Narcissi for indoor decoration can be secured by startin
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hand will seldom err on this point. The water should always be of the same temperature as the house, otherwise the plants will be constantly checked. A tank in the greenhouse meets thi
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e manner advised for Gloxinia, and the two plants may be grown in the same house. Gloxinia.—From two or three sowings, and by a little management, it is easy to have a supply of this
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feet in height. It is a half-hardy annual, and should be grown in the same manner as Nicotiana. Salpiglossis merits its increasing popularity. A sowing at the end of this month or the
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steady progress without a check until they can be planted out. At the same time they must be hardened in readiness for removal to the open ground; and if the work is carried on with ju
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e grown in small groups or alone in beds, the treatment should be the same in either case. With light land there is no difficulty; it is only needful to dig it well, and to incorporate
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trong before cold weather sets in. Chionodoxa can be forced with the same ease as Roman Hyacinths. A 48-sized pot will accommodate several bulbs. Cinerarias are frequently placed in
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a time when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the same class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to ornamental contrivances. Iris.—The tubero
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hat the flowers from very late plantings will be quite so good as the same bulbs would have produced had they been put in at an earlier period. Still there are cases when the delay is
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the pipes should be painted. Be careful not to raise the heat at the same time, for if the pipes are hotter than the hand can bear fumes destructive to vegetation will be given off. M
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, and in the extent of damage they cause, Snails may be placed in the same category as Slugs. During the day the Snail usually remains in hiding, emerging from rockeries and creeper-co
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in a very similar manner to the Bordeaux mixture, and is made in the same way as the latter, except that washing soda (five pounds) is substituted for quicklime. Those who leave Pota
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the branches growing from the stem both before and behind are for the same reason left out. At B a tip of a single branch is shown further enlarged to four hundred diameters. The spore
would like a peculiarly elegant and delicious dish of Spinach, pinch
off a sufficiency of the tops of the advancing shoots, and cook them
Spinach fashion. If properly done, it is one of the finest vegetables
ever eaten. As pinching off the tender tops of the shoots lessens the
fruitfulness of the vines, we only recommend this procedure where there
is a large plantation.
Gourds may be trained to trellises, fences, and walls. In all such
cases, a good bed should be prepared of any light, rich loam, and it
will be none the less effective if made on a mound of fermenting
material.
HERBS
With certain exceptions, the growing of Sweet Herbs from seeds is
altogether advantageous. The plants come perfectly true, and are so
vigorous that it is easier to raise them from seed than to secure a
succession from slips or cuttings. To meet a large and continuous
demand in the kitchen there must be a proportionate plantation in the
border; but in gardens of medium size we do not advocate the culture of
Herbs on an extensive scale, unless there be a special object in view.
A moderate number of Herbs will meet the necessities of most families.
Still it is a fact that the tendency is always in the direction of
increased variety, and gardeners are called on to provide frequent
changes of flavouring Herbs, some of which are quite as highly prized
in salads as they are for culinary purposes.
In the smallest gardens, Mint, Parsley, Sage, and both Common and Lemon
Thyme, must find a place. In gardens which have any pretension to
supply the needs of a luxurious table there should be added Basil,
Chives, Pot and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel,
Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens
generally contain a plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties
which follow.
Several of the most popular Herbs, such as Chives, Mint, Tarragon, and
Lemon Thyme, are not grown from seed—at all events, those who venture
on the pastime might employ their labour to greater advantage. But
others, such as Basil, Borage, Chervil, Fennel, Marjoram, Marigold,
Parsley, Savory, &c., are grown from seed, in some cases of necessity,
and in others because it is the quicker and easier way of securing a
crop.
Angelica and Mint flourish in moist soil, but the majority of aromatic
Herbs succeed on land that is dry, poor, and somewhat sandy, rather
than in the rich borders that usually prevail in the Kitchen Garden.
Happily they are not very particular, but sunshine they must have for
the secretion of their fragrant essences. A narrow border marked off in
drills, and, if possible, sloping to the south, will answer admirably.
Thin the plants in good time, and the thinnings of those wanted in
quantity may, if necessary, be transplanted. The soil must be kept free
from weeds, and every variety be allowed sufficient space for full
development.
Angelica (_A. Archangelica_).—A native biennial which is not easily
raised from seed treated in the ordinary way. Germination is always
capricious, slow and irregular. It may be several months before the
plants begin to appear. The best results are obtained by placing the
seed in sand, kept moist for several weeks before sowing. The leaves
and stalks are sometimes blanched and eaten as Celery, and are also
boiled with meat and fish. Occasionally the tender stems and midribs
are coated with candied sugar as a confection. Angelica was formerly
supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, but its reputation as a
remedy for poison and as a preventive of infectious diseases is not
supported by the disciples of modern chemistry. The seeds are still
used for flavouring liqueurs.
Balm (_Melissa officinalis_).—A perennial herb, which can be propagated
by cuttings or grown as an annual from seed. An essential oil is
distilled from the leaves, but they are chiefly used, when dried, for
making tea for invalids, especially those suffering from fever. The
plant has also been used for making Balm wine. Sow in May.
Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the
same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April.
Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally obtained
from India, and one of the most popular of the flavouring Herbs. Seeds
should be sown in February or March in gentle heat. When large enough
the seedlings must be pricked off into boxes until they are ready for
transferring to a rich border in June, or seed may be sown in the open
ground during April and May. A space of eight inches between the plants
in the rows will suffice, but the rows should be at least a foot apart.
The flower-stems must be cut as they rise, and be tied in bundles for
winter use. This practice will prolong the life of the plant until late
in the season. Many gardeners lift plants in September, pot them, and
so maintain a supply of fresh green leaves until winter is far
advanced.
Borage (_Borago officinalis_).—A native hardy plant, which thrives in
poor, stony soil. The flowers are used for flavouring purposes,
especially for claret-cup. Borage is also a great favourite with
bee-masters. Sow in April or May in good loam, and thin to fifteen or
eighteen inches apart. The rows should be from eighteen to twenty-four
inches asunder, for the plant is tall, and strong in growth.
Chervil, Curled (_Anthriscus Cerefolium_).—Used for salads, garnishing,
and culinary purposes. To secure a regular supply of leaves small
successional sowings are necessary from spring to autumn, and frequent
watering in dry weather will prevent the plants from being spoiled by
throwing up seed-stems. For winter use, sow in boxes kept in a warm
temperature.
Chives (_Allium Schænoprasum_).—A mild substitute for the Onion in
salads and soups. The plant is a native of Britain, and will grow
freely in any ordinary garden soil. Propagation is effected by division
of the roots either in spring or autumn. The clumps should be cut
regularly in succession whether wanted or not, with the object of
maintaining a continuous growth of young and tender shoots. At
intervals of four years it will be necessary to lift, divide, and
replant the roots on fresh ground.
Fennel (_Fæniculum officinale_).—A hardy perennial which has been
naturalised in some parts of this country. It is grown in gardens to
furnish a supply of its elegant feathery foliage for garnishing and for
use in fish sauces. Occasionally the stems are blanched and eaten in
the same way as Celery, and in the natural state they are boiled as a
vegetable. The seeds are also employed for flavouring. Sow in drills in
April and May, and thin the plants to fifteen inches apart.
Finocchio, or Florence Fennel (_Fæniculum dulce_, DC).—A sweet-tasting
herb, very largely grown in the south of Italy, where it is eaten both
in the natural state and when boiled. Sow in the open ground during
spring or early summer, in rows about eighteen inches apart, and thin
or transplant to six or nine inches. When the base begins to swell,
earth up the plants in the same manner as Celery. If transplanted,
pinch off the tips of the roots.
Horehound (_Marrubium vulgare_).—A well-known medicinal herb, from
which an extract is obtained for subduing irritating coughs. Sow in
April or May, and thin the plants until they stand fifteen inches
apart.
Hyssop (_Hyssopus officinalis_).—The leaves and young shoots are used
as a pot-herb, and the leafy tops and flowers, when dried, are employed
for medicinal purposes. Hyssop is also occasionally used as an edging
plant. A dry soil and warm situation suit it. Sow in April, and thin
the plants to a foot apart in the rows.
Lavender (_Lavandula_).—Universally known and valued for its perfume.
Although the plant is generally propagated from cuttings, it can easily
be grown from seed sown in April or May. The plants attain a height of
one or two feet, and the stems should not be cut until the flowers are
expanded.
Marigold, Pot (_Calendula officinalis_).—Employed both in flower and
vegetable gardens: in the former as a bedding annual, and in the latter
that the flowers may be dried and stored for colouring and flavouring
soups; also for distilling. In April or May sow the seed in drills one
foot apart, and thin the plants to the same distance in the rows.
Marjoram, Pot (_Origanum Onites_).—One of the most familiar Herbs in
British gardens. The aromatic leaves are used both green and when dried
for flavouring. Strictly the plant is a perennial, but it is readily
grown as an annual. Sow in February or March in gentle heat, and in the
open ground a month later. The plants should be allowed a space often
inches or a foot each way.
Marjoram, Sweet Knotted (_Origanum Majorana_).—This plant is used for
culinary purposes in the same way as the Pot Marjoram, and it is also
regarded as a tonic and stomachic. The most satisfactory mode of
cultivation is that of a half-hardy annual. Sow in March or April and
allow each plant a square foot of ground.
Mint (_Mentha viridis_).—Known also as Spearmint. It must be grown from
divisions. Between the delicacy of fresh young green leaves and those
which have been dried with the utmost care there is so wide a
difference that the practice of forcing from November to May is fully
justified. This is easily accomplished by packing roots in a box and
keeping them moist in a temperature of 60°. Where this is impossible,
stems must be cut, bunched, and hung in a cool store for use during
winter and spring. Mint grows vigorously in damp soil, and the bed
should have occasional attention, to prevent plants from extending
beyond their proper boundary. To secure young and luxuriant growth a
fresh plantation should be made annually in February or March. If
allowed to occupy the same plot of land year after year the leaves
become small and the stems wiry.
Parsley (_Carum Petroselinum_) will teach those who have eyes exactly
how it should be grown. There will appear here and there in a garden
stray or rogue Parsley plants. No matter how regularly the hoeing and
weeding may be done, a stray Parsley plant will occasionally appear
alone, perhaps in the midst of Lettuces, or Cauliflowers, or Onions.
When these rogues escape destruction they become superb plants, and the
gardener sometimes leaves them to enjoy the conditions they have
selected, and in which they evidently prosper. The lesson for the
cultivator is, that Parsley should have plenty of room from the very
first; and this lesson, we feel bound to say, cannot be too often
enforced upon young gardeners, for they are apt to sow Parsley far more
thickly than is wise, and to be injuriously slow and timid in thinning
the crop when the plants are crowding one another.
Parsley, like many other good things, will grow almost anywhere and
anyhow, but to make a handsome crop a deep, rich, moist soil is
required. It attains to fine quality on a well-tilled clay, but the
kindly loam that suits almost every vegetable is adapted to produce
perfect Parsley, and every good garden should show a handsome sample,
for beauty is the first required qualification. To keep the house
fairly well supplied sowings should be made in February, May, and July.
The first of these will be in gentle heat. When large enough prick out
the plants into boxes, or on to a mild hot-bed, and transfer to the
open ground at the end of April, allowing each plant a space of one
foot each way. In the open, it is best to sow in lines one foot apart,
and thin out first to three inches, and finally to six inches, the
strongest of the seedlings being put out one foot apart. By following
this plan sufficient supplies for a small household may be obtained
from one annual sowing made in April. It should not be overlooked that
Parsley is indispensable to exhibitors of vegetables, especially as a
groundwork for collections, and due allowance for such calls must be
made in fixing the number and extent of the sowings. When the plant
pushes for seed it becomes useless, and had best be got rid of; but by
planting at various times in different places a sufficiency may be
expected to go through a second season without bolting, after which it
will be necessary to root them out and consign them to the
rubbish-heap. Parsley is often grown as an edging, but it is only in
large gardens that this can be done advantageously, and then a very
handsome edging is secured. In small gardens it is best to sow on a bed
in lines one foot apart, and thin out first to three inches, and
finally to six inches, the strongest of the thinnings being planted a
foot apart, to last over as proposed above. When Parsley has stood some
time it becomes coarse, but the young growth may be renewed by cutting
over; this operation being also useful to defer the flowering, which is
surely hastened by leaving the plants alone. For the winter supply a
late plantation made in a sheltered spot will usually suffice, for the
plant is very hardy; but it may be expedient sometimes to put old
frames over a piece worth keeping, or to protect during hard weather
with dry litter. A few plants lifted into five-inch pots and placed in
a cool house will often tide over a difficult period. In gathering,
care should be taken to pick separately the young leaves that are
nearly full grown, and to take only one or two from each plant. It
costs no more time to fill a basket by taking a leaf or two here and
there from a whole row than to strip two or three plants, and the
difference in the end will be considerable as regards the total produce
and quality of the crop.
Pennyroyal (_Mentha Pulegium_) is a native perennial which must be
propagated by divisions, and this can be done either in spring or
autumn. The rows may be twelve or fifteen inches apart, but in the rows
the plants do well at a distance of eight inches. The taste for
Pennyroyal is by no means universal, but some persons like the tender
tops in culinary preparations. The belief in its supposed medicinal
virtues is slowly dying.
Purslane (_Portulaca oleracea_).—This annual plant thrives best in a
sunny position. Seed should be sown from mid-April onwards to insure a
succession of young leaves and shoots which may be cooked as a
vegetable or eaten raw as a salad. Space the rows nine inches apart and
thin the plants to a distance of six inches.
Rampion (_Campanula Rapunculus_).—Both leaves and roots are used in
winter salads; the roots are also boiled. If the seed be sown earlier
than the end of May the plants are liable to bolt. Choose a shady
situation where the soil is rich and light, and do not stint water. The
rows need not exceed six inches apart, and four inches in the rows will
be a sufficient space between plants.
Rosemary (_Rosmarinus officinalis_).—A hardy evergreen shrub easily
grown from seed, the leaves of which are used for making Rosemary tea
for relieving headache. An essential oil is also obtained by
distillation. A dry, warm, sunny border suits the plant. Sow in April
and May.
Rue (_Ruta graveolens_).—A hardy evergreen shrub, chiefly cultivated
for its medicinal qualities. The leaves are acrid, and emit a pungent
odour when handled. The plant is shrubby, and as it attains a height of
two or three feet it occupies a considerable space. Sow in April.
Sage (_Salvia officinalis_).—Although Sage can be raised from seed with
a minimum of trouble, yet this is one of the few instances where it is
an advantage to propagate plants from a good stock. The difference will
be obvious to any gardener who will grow seedlings by the side of
propagated plants. Still, seedlings are often raised, and as annuals
the plants are quite satisfactory. Sow under glass in February and
March, and in open ground during April and May. Prick off the seedlings
into a nursery bed before transferring to final positions, in which
each plant should be allowed a space of fifteen inches.
Savory, Summer (_Satureia hortensis_).—An aromatic seasoning and
flavouring herb, which must be raised annually from seed. Sow early in
April in drills one foot apart, and thin the plants to six or eight
inches in the rows. Cut the stems when in full flower, and tie in
bunches for winter use.
Savory, Winter (_Satureia montana_).—A hardy dwarf evergreen which can
be propagated by cuttings; but it is more economically grown from seed
sown at the same time, and treated in the same manner, as Summer
Savory.
Sorrel (_Rumex scutalus_).—The large-leaved or French Sorrel is not
only served as a separate dish, but is mingled with Spinach, and is
also used as an ingredient in soups, sauces, and salads. Leaves of the
finest quality are obtainable from plants a year old, and when the crop
has been gathered the ground may with advantage be utilised for some
other purpose. Light soil in fairly good heart suits the plant. The
seed should be sown in March or early April, in shallow drills six or
eight inches apart, and the seedlings must be thinned early, leaving
three or four inches between them in the rows. To keep the bed free
from weeds is the only attention necessary, unless an occasional
watering becomes imperative. In September the entire crop may be
transferred to fresh ground, allowing eighteen inches between the
plants, or part may be drawn and the remainder left at that distance.
In the following spring the flower-stems will begin to rise, and if
these are allowed to develop they reduce the size of the leaves and
seriously impair their quality; hence the heads should be pinched out
as fast as they are presented.
Tarragon (_Artemisia Dracunculus_).—This aromatic herb is used for a
variety of purposes, but is most commonly employed for imparting its
powerful flavour to vinegar. The plant is a perennial, and must be
propagated by divisions in March or April, or by cuttings placed in
gentle heat in spring. Later in the year they will succeed under a
hand-glass in the open. Green leaves are preferable to those which have
been dried, and by a little management a succession of plants is easily
arranged. For winter use roots may be lifted in autumn and placed in
heat. Those who have no facilities for maintaining a supply of green
leaves rely on foliage cut in autumn and dried.
Thyme, Common (_Thymus vulgaris_).—An aromatic herb, well known in
every garden, and in constant demand for the house. Seedlings are
easily raised from a sowing in April, or the plant can be grown from
division of the roots in spring. Thyme makes a very effective edging,
and is frequently employed for this purpose on dry, well-kept borders.
Thyme, Lemon (_Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris_).—This plant cannot be grown
from seed; only by division of the roots in March or April. It is an
aromatic herb, generally regarded as indispensable in a well-ordered
garden.
Wormwood (_Artemisia Absinthium_).—An intensely bitter herb, used for
medicinal purposes. The plant is a hardy perennial, and is usually
propagated in spring by taking cuttings or dividing the roots.
HORSE-RADISH
Cochlearia Armoracia
This vegetable is highly prized as a condiment to roast beef, but as a
rule it is badly grown. The common practice is to consign it to some
neglected corner of the garden, where it struggles for existence, and
produces sticks which are almost worthless for the table. In the same
space a plentiful supply of large handsome sticks may be grown with as
little trouble as Carrots or Parsnips. Choose for the crop a piece of
good open ground, and in preparing it place a heavy dressing of rotten
manure quite at the bottom of each trench. Early in the year select
young straight roots from eight to twelve inches long, each having a
single crown, and plant them one foot apart each way. By the following
autumn these will become large, succulent sticks, which will put to
shame the ugly striplings grown under starving conditions. The roots
may be dug as required; but we do not advocate that method. It is
better practice to clear the whole bed at once, and store the produce
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