THE FIELD AND GARDEN VEGETABLES OF AMERICA TEXT

first; becomes paler as it grows older, until it fades into a rich cream-yellow. Dr. Badham says, "Independent of the excellent flavor of this little mushroom, two circumstances make it valuable in a domestic point of view,--the facility with which it is dried, and its extensive dissemination." It may be kept for years without losing any of its aroma or goodness. * * * * * BOLETUS. _Fries._ Of this, two species are considered eatable,--the _B. edulis_ and the _B. scaber_; the former resembling the Common Mushroom in taste, and the latter of good quality while in a young, fresh state, but of little value when dried, as it loses much of its odor, and becomes insipid, and unfit for use. * * * * * CLAVARIA. All the species are edible, and many of them indigenous to our woods; being usually found in damp, shady places. * * * * * THE MOREL. _M'Int._ Morchella esculenta. [Illustration: The Morel.] In its natural state, the Morel is found growing in orchards, damp woods, and in moist pastures. Its height is about four inches. It is distinguished by its white, cylindrical, hollow, or solid, smooth stem; its cap is of a pale-brown or gray color, nearly spherical, hollow, adheres to the stem by its base, and is deeply pitted over its entire surface. It is in perfection early in the season; but should not be gathered soon after rain, or while wet with dew. If gathered when dry, it may be preserved for several months. _Use._--The Morels are used, like the Truffle, as an ingredient to heighten the flavor of ragouts, gravies, and other rich dishes. They are used either fresh or in a dried state. _Cultivation._--Its cultivation, if ever attempted, has been carried on to a very limited extent. Of its capability of submitting to culture, there can be little doubt. If the spawn were collected from its natural habitats in June, and planted in beds differently formed, but approximating as nearly as possible to its natural conditions, a proper mode of cultivation would assuredly be in time arrived at. Persoon remarks that "it prefers a chalky or argillaceous soil to one of a sandy nature; and that it not unfrequently springs up where charcoal has been burned, or where cinders have been thrown." "The great value of the Morel--which is one of the most expensive luxuries furnished by the Italian warehouses, and which is by no means met with in the same abundance as some others of the Fungi--deserves to be better known than it is at present." The genus comprises a very few species, and they are all edible. * * * * * COMMON TRUFFLE. Tuber cibarium. [Illustration: The Truffle.] On the authority of our most distinguished mycologists, the Common Truffle has not yet been discovered within the limits of the United States. It is said to be found abundantly in some parts of Great Britain, particularly in Wiltshire, Kent, and Hampshire. It is collected in large quantities in some portions of France, and is indigenous to other countries of Europe. The following description by Mascall, in connection with the engraving, will give an accurate idea of its size, form, color, and general character: "The size rarely much exceeds that of a large walnut. Its form is rounded, sometimes kidney-shaped, and rough with protuberances. The surface, when the truffle is young, is whitish; but, in those that are full grown, it is either blackish or a deep-black. The color of the inside is whitish, with dark-blue and white, gray, reddish, light-brown or dark-brown veins, of the thickness of a horse-hair, which are usually variously entangled, and which form a kind of network, or mat. Between the veins are numerous cavities, filled with mucilage, and small, solid grains. These scarcely visible glands were formerly said to be the seeds, or germs, of the young truffles. The less the inside of the Truffle is colored with dark veins, the more tender and delicious is its flesh. "The blackish, external rind is hard, and very rough, by means of fine fissures, grains, and protuberances; and forms, with its small facets (which are almost hexagonal), an appearance by which it somewhat resembles the fir-apples of the larch. Whilst the truffle is young, its smell resembles that of putrid plants, or of moist, vegetable earth. When it has nearly attained its full growth, it diffuses an agreeable smell, which is peculiar to it, resembling that of musk, which lasts only a few days: it then becomes stronger; and the nearer the fungus is to its dissolution, which speedily ensues, so much the more unpleasant is its odor, till at last it is quite disagreeable and putrid. Whilst young, the flesh is watery, and the taste insipid: when fully formed, its firm flesh, which is like the kernel of the almond, has an extremely aromatic and delicious taste; but as soon as the fungus begins to decay, and worms and putrescence to attack it, its taste is bitter and disagreeable." Many attempts have been made in Great Britain, as well as in other parts of Europe, to propagate the Truffle by artificial means; but all experiments thus far, if they have not totally failed, have been attended by very unsatisfactory results. _Use._--Like the Common Mushroom, it is used principally in stuffings, gravies, and sauces, and in other very highly seasoned culinary preparations. It has long been held in high esteem by epicures and the opulent; but, from its extreme rarity, has always commanded a price which has effectually prohibited its general use. It has been truthfully remarked, "that few know how to raise it, and fewer still possess the proper knowledge to prepare it for the table." PIEDMONTESE TRUFFLE. _Thomp._ Tuber magnatum. This species is the most celebrated of all the truffles, and always commands an enormous price. It occurs abundantly in the mountains of Piedmont, and probably nowhere else. TUBER MELANOSPORUM. _Thomp._ This is the Truffle of the Paris markets. It is richly scented, and also greatly superior in flavor to the common sorts. Other genera and species of Fungi are considered harmless, and are occasionally used for food. Some of the edible kinds, however, in size, form, color, and organization, so closely approach certain poisonous or deleterious species, as to confuse even the most experienced student. None of the family (not excepting even the common cultivated Mushroom) should therefore be gathered for use, except by those who may possess a thorough knowledge of the various species and their properties. CHAPTER XII. MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES. Alkekengi, or Ground Cherry. Corn. Egg-plant. Martynia. Oil Radish. Okra, or Gumbo. Pepper. Rhubarb, or Pie-plant. Sunflower. Tobacco. Tomato. * * * * * ALKEKENGI. Strawberry Tomato. Winter Cherry. Ground Cherry. Barbadoes Gooseberry. Physalis edulis. A hardy annual plant from Central or Tropical America. Stem angular, very much branched, but not erect,--in good soils, attaining a length or height of more than three feet; leaves large, triangular; flowers solitary, yellow, spotted or marked with purple, and about half an inch in diameter; fruit rounded or obtuse-heart-shaped, half an inch in diameter, yellow, and semi-transparent at maturity, enclosed in a peculiar thin, membranous, inflated, angular calyx, or covering, which is of a pale-green color while the fruit is forming, but at maturity changes to a dusky-white or reddish-drab. The pedicel, or fruit-stem, is weak and slender; and most of the berries fall spontaneously to the ground at the time of ripening. The seeds are small, yellow, lens-shaped, and retain their germinative properties three years. The plants are exceedingly prolific, and will thrive in almost any description of soil. Sow at the same time, and thin or transplant to the same distance, as practised in the cultivation of the Tomato. On land where it has been grown, it springs up spontaneously in great abundance, and often becomes troublesome in the garden. _Use._--The fruit has a juicy pulp, and, when first tasted, a pleasant, strawberry-like flavor, with a certain degree of sweetness and acidity intermixed. The after-taste is, however, much less agreeable, and is similar to that of the Common Tomato. By many the fruit is much esteemed, and is served in its natural state at the table as a dessert. With the addition of lemon-juice, it is sometimes preserved in the manner of the plum, as well as stewed and served like cranberries. If kept from the action of frost, the fruit retains its natural freshness till March or April. PURPLE ALKEKENGI. Purple Ground Cherry. Purple Strawberry Tomato. Purple Winter Cherry. Physalis sp. This species grows naturally and abundantly in some of the Western States. The fruit is roundish, somewhat depressed, about an inch in diameter, of a deep purple color, and enclosed in the membranous covering peculiar to the genus. Compared with the preceding species, the fruit is more acid, less perfumed, and not so palatable in its crude state, but by many considered superior for preserving. The plant is less pubescent, but has much the same habit, and is cultivated in the same manner. TALL ALKEKENGI. Tall Ground Cherry. Tall Strawberry Tomato. Physalis pubescens. Stem about four feet high, erect and branching; leaves oval, somewhat triangular, soft and velvety; flowers yellow, spotted with deep purple; fruit yellow, of the size of the Common Yellow Alkekengi, enclosed in an angular, inflated calyx, and scarcely distinguishable from the last named. It is grown from seeds, which are sown like those of the Tomato. It is later, and much less prolific, than the species first described. * * * * * CORN. Zea mays. _Garden and Table Varieties._-- ADAMS'S EARLY WHITE. A distinct and well-marked table variety. Ears seven to eight inches in length, two inches in diameter, twelve or fourteen rowed, and rather abruptly contracted at the tips; kernel white, rounded, somewhat deeper than broad, and indented at the exterior end, which is whiter and less transparent than the interior or opposite extremity. The depth and solidity of the kernel give great comparative weight to the ear; and, as the cob is of small size, the proportion of product is unusually large. In its general appearance, the ear is not unlike some descriptions of Southern or Western field-corn; from which, aside from its smaller dimensions, it would hardly be distinguishable. In quality, it cannot be considered equal to some of the shrivelled-kernelled, sweet descriptions, but will prove acceptable to those to whom the peculiar, sugary character of these may be objectionable. Though later than the Jefferson or Darlings, it is comparatively early, and may be classed as a good garden variety. Much grown for early use and the market in the Middle States, but less generally known or cultivated in New England. BLACK SWEET. Slate Sweet. Plant, in height and general habit, similar to Darling's Early; ears six to eight inches in length, uniformly eight-rowed; kernels roundish, flattened, deep slate-color, much shrivelled at maturity. Early. The variety is sweet, tender, and well flavored; remains a long period in condition for use; and, aside from its peculiar color (which by some is considered objectionable), is well worthy of cultivation. BURR'S IMPROVED. Burr's Sweet. An improved variety of the Twelve-rowed Sweet. The ears are from twelve to sixteen rowed, rarely eighteen, and, in good soils and seasons, often measure eight or ten inches in length, nearly three inches in diameter, and weigh, when in condition for the table, from eighteen to twenty-two ounces; cob white; kernel rounded, flattened, pure white at first, or while suitable for use,--becoming wrinkled, and changing to dull, yellowish, semi-transparent white, when ripe. The variety is hardy and productive; and, though not early, usually perfects its crop. For use in its green state, plantings may be made to the 20th of June. The kernel is tender, remarkably sugary, hardens slowly, is thin-skinned, and generally considered much superior to the Common Twelve-rowed. It is always dried or ripened for seed with much difficulty; often moulding or decaying before the glazing or hardening of the kernel takes place. If the crop is sufficiently advanced as not to be injured by freezing, it will ripen and dry off best upon the stalks in the open ground; but if in the milk, or still soft and tender at the approach of freezing weather, it should be gathered and suspended, after being husked, in a dry and airy room or building, taking care to keep the ears entirely separate from each other. DARLING'S EARLY. Darling's Early Sweet. Stalk about five feet in height, and comparatively slender; the ears are from six to eight inches in length, an inch and a half in diameter, and, when the variety is unmixed, uniformly eight-rowed; the kernels are roundish, flattened, pure white when suitable for boiling,--much shrivelled or wrinkled, and of a dull, semi-transparent yellow, when ripe; the cob is white. The variety is early, very tender and sugary, yields well, produces little fodder, ears near the ground, and is one of the best sorts for planting for early use, as it seldom, if ever, fails to perfect its crop. In the Middle States, and in the milder sections of New England, it may be planted for boiling until near the beginning of July. The hills are made three feet apart in one direction by two feet and a half in the opposite; or the seeds may be planted in drills three feet apart, dropping them in groups of three together every eighteen inches. EARLY JEFFERSON. Stalk five to six feet high, producing one or two ears, which are of small size, eight-rowed, and measure six or eight inches in length, and about an inch and a half in diameter at the largest part; cob white; kernel white, roundish, flattened,--the surface of a portion of the ear, especially near its tip, often tinged with a delicate shade of rose-red. The kernel retains its color, and never shrivels or wrinkles, in ripening. The variety is hardy and productive, but is principally cultivated on account of its early maturity; though, in this respect, it is little, if at all, in advance of Darling's. The quality is tender and good, but much less sugary than the common shrivelled varieties; on which account, however, it is preferred by some palates. It remains but a short time tender and in good condition for boiling; soon becoming hard, glazed, and unfit for use. GOLDEN SWEET. Golden Sugar. Stalk and general habit similar to Darling's Early; ears six to eight inches long, an inch and a half or an inch and three-fourths in diameter, regularly eight-rowed; the kernel, when ripe, is semi-transparent yellow. The variety is apparently a hybrid between the Common Yellow or Canada Corn and Darling's Early. In flavor, as well as appearance, both of these varieties are recognized. It does not run excessively to stalk and foliage, yields well, is hardy, and seldom fails to ripen perfectly in all sections of New England. For boiling in its green state, plantings may be made until the last week of June or first of July. In respect to quality, it is quite tender, sweet, and well flavored, but less sugary than most of the other sugar or sweet varieties. OLD COLONY. _Hov. Mag._ This variety was originated by the late Rev. A. R. Pope, of Somerville, Mass. At the time of its production, he was a resident of Kingston, Plymouth County, Mass.; and, in consequence of the locality of its origin, it received the name above given. In a communication at the close of the sixteenth volume of the "Magazine of Horticulture," Mr. Pope describes it as follows:-- "It is a hybrid, as any one can readily perceive by inspection, between the Southern White and the Common Sweet Corn of New England; and exhibits certain characteristics of the two varieties, combining the size of the ear and kernel and productiveness of the Southern with the sweetness and tenderness of the Northern parent. "The stalks are from ten to twelve feet in height, and of corresponding circumference. They are also furnished with brace-roots (seldom found upon the common varieties of Sweet Corn); and the pistils are invariably green, and not pink, as in the Southern White." The ears are from five to seven inches in length, and the number of rows varies from twelve to twenty; the kernels are very long or deep; and the cob, which is always white, is quite small compared with the size of the ear. When ripe, the kernels are of a dull, semi-transparent, yellowish white, and much shrivelled. The ears are produced on the stalk, four or five feet from the ground. It is very productive, but late; and though it will rarely fail in the coldest seasons to yield abundant supplies in the green state for the table, yet it requires a long and warm season for its complete maturity. For cultivation in the Southern States and tropical climates, it has been found to be peculiarly adapted; as it not only possesses there the sweetness and excellence that distinguish the Sweet Corn of the temperate and cooler sections, but does not deteriorate by long cultivation, as other sweet varieties almost invariably are found to do. PARCHING CORN (WHITE KERNEL). Pop-corn. Stalk six feet high, usually producing two ears, which are from six to eight inches long, quite slender, and uniformly eight-rowed; cob white; kernel roundish, flattened, glossy, flinty, or rice-like, and of a dull, semi-transparent, white color. When parched, it is of pure snowy whiteness, very brittle, tender, and well flavored, and generally considered the best of all the sorts used for this purpose. In some parts of Massachusetts, as also in New Hampshire, the variety is somewhat extensively cultivated for commercial purposes. Its peculiar properties seem to be most perfectly developed in dry, gravelly, or silicious soils, and under the influence of short and warm seasons. In field culture, it is either planted in hills three feet apart, or in drills three feet apart, and eighteen inches apart in the drills. The product per acre is usually about the same number of bushels of ears that the same land would yield of shelled-corn of the ordinary field varieties. Increase of size is a sure indication of deterioration. The cultivator should aim to keep the variety as pure as possible by selecting slender and small-sized but well-filled ears for seed, and in no case to plant such as may have yellow or any foreign sort intermixed. The value of a crop will be diminished nearly in a relative proportion to the increase of the size of the ears. PARCHING CORN (YELLOW). A yellow variety of the preceding. It retains its color to some extent after being parched; and this is considered an objection. It is tender, but not so mild flavored as the white, and is little cultivated. The size and form of the ears are the same, and it is equally productive. RED-COB SWEET. Ears about eight inches in length by a diameter of two inches,--usually twelve but sometimes fourteen rowed; kernels roundish, flattened, white when suitable for boiling, shrivelled, and of a dull, semi-transparent white when ripe; the cob is red, which may be called its distinguishing characteristic. Quality good; the kernel being tender and sweet. It remains long in good condition for the table, and is recommended for general cultivation. Season intermediate. A sub-variety occurs with eight rows; the form and size of the ear and kernel resembling Darling's Early. RICE (RED KERNEL). This is a variety of the White Rice, with deep purplish-red or blood-red kernels. The ears are of the same size and form. Its quality, though inferior to the white, is much superior to the yellow. Productiveness, and season of maturity, the same. RICE (WHITE KERNEL).