WOMAN'S INSTITUTE LIBRARY OF COOKERY. VOLUME 5: FRUIT AND FRUIT DESSERTS; CANNING AND DRYING; JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING AND PICKLING; CONFECTIONS; BEVERAGES; THE PLANNING OF MEALS TEXT

other flat surface, but it operates on the same principle as the other. The coffee beans are placed in the chamber at the top, and the ground coffee drops into the drawer _a_ at the bottom. The adjustment of the grinding rolls is regulated by the notched head at the end of the vertical shaft. 24. ADULTERATION OF COFFEE.--As in the case of numerous other foods, attempts are often made to adulterate coffee. Since the Pure Food Laws have been enforced, there is not so much danger of adulteration in a product of this kind; still, every housewife should be familiar with the ways in which this beverage may be reduced in strength or quality, so that she may be able to tell whether she is getting a good or an inferior product for her money. Coffee may be adulterated in a number of ways. Ground coffee is especially easy to adulterate with bread crumbs, bran, and similar materials that have been thoroughly browned. Many of the cheaper coffees are adulterated with chicory, a root that has a flavor similar to that of coffee and gives the beverages with which it is used a reddish-brown color. Chicory is not harmful; in fact, its flavor is sought by some people, particularly the French. The objection to it, as well as to other adulterants, is that it is much cheaper than coffee and the use of it therefore increases the profits of the dealer. The presence of chicory in coffee can be detected by putting a small amount of the ground coffee in a glass of water. If chicory is present, the water will become tinged with red and the chicory will settle to the bottom more quickly than the coffee. PREPARATION OF COFFEE 25. SELECTION OF COFFEE.--Many varieties of coffee are to be had, but Mocha, Java, and Rio are the ones most used. A single variety, however, is seldom sold alone, because a much better flavor can be obtained from _blend coffee_, by which is meant two or more kinds of coffee mixed together. It is usually advisable to buy as good a quality of coffee as can be afforded. The more expensive coffees have better flavor and greater strength than the cheaper grades and consequently need not be used in such great quantity. It is far better to serve this beverage seldom and to have what is served the very best than to serve it so often that a cheap grade must be purchased. For instance, some persons think that they must have coffee for at least two out of three daily meals, but it is usually sufficient if coffee is served once a day, and then for the morning or midday meal rather than for the evening meal. After deciding on the variety of coffee that is desired, it is well to buy unground beans that are packed in air-tight packages. Upon receiving the coffee in the home, it should be poured into a jar or a can and kept tightly covered. 26. NECESSARY UTENSILS.--Very few utensils are required for coffee making, but they should be of the best material that can be afforded in order that good results may be had. A coffee pot, a coffee percolator, and a drip pot, or coffee biggin, are the utensils most frequently used for the preparation of this beverage. [Illustration: FIG. 2] 27. If a COFFEE POT is preferred, it should be one made of material that will withstand the heat of a direct flame. The cheapest coffee pots are made of tin, but they are the least desirable and should be avoided, for the tin, upon coming in contact with the tannic acid contained in coffee, sometimes changes the flavor. Coffee pots made of enamelware are the next highest in price. Then come nickel-plated ones, and, finally, the highest-priced ones, which are made of aluminum. The usual form of plain coffee pot is shown in Fig. 2. [Illustration: FIG. 3] 28. PERCOLATORS are very desirable for the making of coffee, for they produce excellent results and at the same time make the preparation of coffee easy. Those having an electric attachment are especially convenient. One form of percolator is shown in Fig. 3. In this percolator, the ground coffee is put in the filter cup _a_ and the water in the lower part of the pot _b_. The water immediately passes into the chamber _c_, as shown by the arrows. In this chamber, which is small, it heats rapidly and then rises through the vertical tube _d_. At the top _e_, it comes out in the form of a spray, strikes the glass top, and falls back on a perforated metal plate _f_, called the spreader. It then passes through this plate into the filter cup containing the grounds, through which it percolates and drops into the main chamber. The circulation of the water continues as long as sufficient heat is applied, and the rate of circulation depends on the degree of heat. 29. The DRIP POT, or _coffee biggin_, as it is sometimes called, one type of which is shown in Fig. 4, is sometimes preferred for the making of coffee. This utensil is made of metal or earthenware and operates on the same principle as a percolator. The ground coffee is suspended above the liquid in a cloth bag or a perforated receptacle and the water percolates through it. [Illustration: FIG. 4] 30. In case a more complicated utensil than any of those mentioned is used for the making of coffee, the directions that accompany it will have to be followed. But no matter what kind of utensil is selected for the preparation of coffee, it should be thoroughly cleaned each time it is used. To clean it, first empty any coffee it contains and then wash every part carefully and scald and dry it. If the utensil is not clean, the flavor of the coffee made in it will be spoiled. 31. METHODS OF MAKING COFFEE.--Several methods are followed in the making of coffee, the one to select depending on the result desired and the kind of utensil to be used. The most common of these methods are: _boiling_, which produces a decoction; _infusion_, or _filtration_, which consists in pouring boiling water over very finely ground coffee in order to extract its properties; and _percolating_, in which boiling water percolates, or passes through, finely ground coffee and extracts its flavor. For any of these methods, soft water is better than water that contains a great deal of lime. Many times persons cannot understand why coffee that is excellent in one locality is poor in another. In the majority of cases, this variation is due to the difference in the water and not to the coffee. From 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls of coffee to 1 cupful of water is the usual proportion followed in making coffee. 32. BOILED COFFEE.--Without doubt, coffee is more often boiled in its preparation than treated in any other way. Usually, an ordinary coffee pot is all that is required in this method of preparation. The amount of ground coffee used may be varied to obtain the desired strength. BOILED COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve Six) 1 c. cold water 1/2 c. ground coffee 3 c. boiling water After scalding the coffee pot, put 1/2 cupful of the cold water and the ground coffee into it. Stir well and then add the boiling water. Allow it to come to the boiling point and boil for 3 minutes. Pour a little of the coffee into a cup to clear the spout of grounds, add the remaining cupful of cold water, and put back on the stove to reheat, but not to boil. When hot, serve at once. Never allow the liquid to stand on the grounds for any length of time, for the longer it stands the more tannic acid will be drawn out. 33. As coffee made by boiling is usually somewhat cloudy, it may be cleared in one way or another. The last cold water is added for this purpose, for as it is heavier than the warm liquid it sinks to the bottom and carries the grounds with it. Coffee may also be cleared by stirring a small quantity of beaten raw egg, either the white or the yolk, or both, into the grounds before the cold water is added to them. One egg will clear two or three potfuls of coffee if care is exercised in its use. What remains of the egg after the first potful has been cleared should be placed in a small dish and set away for future use. A little cold water poured over it will assist in preserving it. If the egg shells are washed before the egg is broken, they may be crushed and added to the grounds also, for they will help to clear the coffee. The explanation of the use of egg for this purpose is that it coagulates as the coffee heats and carries the particles of coffee down with it as it sinks. 34. Another very satisfactory way in which to make boiled coffee is to tie the ground coffee loosely into a piece of cheesecloth, pour the boiling water over it, and then let it boil for a few minutes longer than in the method just given. Coffee prepared in this manner will be found to be clear and therefore need not be treated in any of the ways mentioned. 35. FILTERED COFFEE.--When it is desired to make coffee by the filtering process, the coffee must be ground into powder. Then it should be made in a drip, or French, coffee pot. If one of these is not available, cheesecloth of several thicknesses may be substituted. The advantage of making coffee by this method is that the coffee grounds may sometimes be used a second time. FILTERED COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve Six) 1/2 c. powdered coffee 1 qt. boiling water Place the coffee in the top of the drip pot, pour the boiling water over it, and allow the water to drip through into the vessel below. When all has run through, remove the water and pour it over the coffee a second time. If cheesecloth is to be used, put the coffee in it, suspend it over the coffee pot or other convenient utensil, and proceed as with the drip pot. 36. PERCOLATED COFFEE.--The coffee used for percolated coffee should be ground finer than for boiled coffee, but not so fine as for filtered coffee. This is perhaps the easiest way in which to prepare coffee and at the same time the surest method of securing good coffee. PERCOLATED COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve Six) 1/2 c. finely ground coffee 1 qt. cold water Place the coffee in the perforated compartment in the top of the percolator and pour the cold water in the lower chamber. As the water heats, it is forced up through the vertical tube against the top. It then falls over the coffee and percolates through into the water below. This process begins before the water boils, but the hotter the water becomes the more rapidly does it percolate through the coffee. The process continues as long as the heat is applied, and the liquid becomes stronger in flavor as it repeatedly passes through the coffee. When the coffee has obtained the desired strength, serve at once. 37. AFTER-DINNER COFFEE.--After a rather elaborate meal, a small cup of very strong, black coffee is often served. To prepare after-dinner coffee, as this kind is called, follow any of the methods already explained, but make it twice as strong as coffee that is to accompany the usual meal. Sugar and cream may be added to after-dinner coffee, but usually this coffee is drunk black and unsweetened. 38. VIENNA COFFEE.--An especially nice way in which to serve coffee is to combine it with boiled milk and whipped cream. It is then known as Vienna coffee. The accompanying directions are for just 1 cup, as this is prepared a cupful at a time. VIENNA COFFEE (Sufficient to Serve One) 1/4 c. boiled milk 3 Tb. whipped cream 1/2 c. hot filtered coffee, or coffee prepared by any method Place the boiled milk in a cup, add the whipped cream, and fill the cup with the hot coffee. 39. ICED COFFEE.--Persons fond of coffee find iced coffee a most delicious hot-weather drink. Iced coffee is usually served in a glass, as shown in Fig. 5, rather than in a cup, and when whipped cream is added an attractive beverage results. To prepare iced coffee, make coffee by any desired method, but if the boiling method is followed be careful to strain the liquid so that it is entirely free from grounds. Cool the liquid and then pour into glasses containing cracked ice. Serve with plain cream and sugar or with a tablespoonful or two of whipped cream. If desired, however, the cream may be omitted and the coffee served with an equal amount of milk, when it is known as _iced café au lait_. 40. LEFT-OVER COFFEE.--The aim of the person who prepares coffee should be to make the exact quantity needed, no more nor no less, and this can usually be done if directions are carefully followed. However, if any coffee remains after all are served, it should not be thrown away, as it can be utilized in several ways. Drain the liquid from the grounds as soon as possible so that the flavor will not be impaired. [Illustration: FIG. 5] If desired, left-over coffee may be added to fresh coffee when it is prepared for the next meal or, in hot weather, it may be used for iced coffee. It may also be used to flavor gelatine, which, when sweetened and served with whipped cream, makes an excellent dessert. Again, left-over coffee is very satisfactory as a flavoring for cake icing, for custards, or for whipped cream that is to be served with desserts. When coffee is desired for flavoring, it should be boiled in order to evaporate some of the water. Very good cake is made by using left-over coffee for the liquid and spices for the flavoring. SERVING COFFEE 41. The serving of coffee may be done in several ways, but, with the exception of iced coffee, this beverage should always be served as hot as possible. As can well be imagined, nothing is more insipid than lukewarm coffee. Therefore, coffee is preferably made immediately before it is to be served. Sugar and cream usually accompany coffee, but they may be omitted if they are not desired. Coffee may be served with the dinner course, with the dessert, or after the dessert. When it is served with the dinner course or the dessert, a coffee cup or a tea cup of ordinary size is used; but when it is served after the dessert, a demi-tasse, or small cup that holds less than half the amount of the other size, is preferable. Usually, after-dinner coffee, or _café noir_, as such black coffee is called, rather than coffee with cream and sugar, is served after the dessert course of a heavy dinner because it is supposed to be stimulating to the digestion. The pouring of coffee may be done at the table or in the kitchen. If it is done at the table, the person serving should ask those to be served whether or not they desire cream and sugar, and then serve accordingly. If it is done before the coffee is brought to the table, the cream and sugar should be passed, so that those served may help themselves to the desired amount. Care should always be taken in the serving of coffee not to fill the cup so full that it will run over or that it will be too full to handle easily when the cream and sugar are added. * * * * * TEA HISTORY AND PRODUCTION 42. TEA consists of the prepared leaves or leaf buds of a plant known as the tea plant and is used as one of the three stimulating beverages. This plant is grown in China, Japan, India, Ceylon, and the East Indies, and to a small extent in South Carolina. There are two distinct varieties of tea, and each one may be used for the preparation of either green or black tea. The leaves of the tea plant, which are what is used for making the beverage, are gathered four times a year from the time the plants are 4 years old until they are 10 or 12 years old. Then the plants are pulled up and new ones planted. Upon being gathered, the leaves are put through a series of processes before they are ready for use. During this treatment, various modifications of flavor are developed and the leaves are changed in color to black or green, depending on the process used. 43. It is surprising to most persons to learn that tea was known in China for many years before people began to make a beverage of it. The first record of its use as a beverage was probably in the 6th century, when an infusion of tea leaves was given to a ruler of the Chinese Empire to cure a headache. A century later, tea had come into common use as a beverage in that country. As civilization advanced and new countries were formed, tea was introduced as a beverage, and today there is scarcely a locality in which it is not commonly used. 44. CLASSIFICATION OF TEA AS TO QUALITY.--The position of the leaf on the tea plant determines the quality of the tea. The farther from the top, the coarser are the leaves and the poorer is the quality. On the other hand, the smaller the leaves and the nearer the top, the better is the quality. In the very best qualities of tea, the buds of the plant are included with the tiny top leaves. 45. Tea that is raised in China is graded in a particular way, and it will be well to understand this grading. The top buds are used entirely for a variety known as _flowery pekoe_, but this is seldom found in our markets. The youngest leaves next to the buds are made into a tea called _orange pekoe_; the next older leaves are used for _pekoe_; the third, for _souchong first_; the fourth, for _souchong second_; the fifth, for _congou_; and if there is another leaf, it is made into a tea known as _bohea_. Sometimes the first three leaves are mixed, and when this is done the tea is called _pekoe_. If they are mixed with the next two, the tea is called _souchong pekoe_. The laws controlling the importation of tea require that each shipment be tested before it passes the custom house, to determine whether or not it contains what the label claims for it. 46. VARIETIES OF TEA.--The teas that are put on the market are of two general varieties, _black tea_ and _green tea_. Any quality of tea or tea raised in any country may be made into these two kinds, for, as has been mentioned, it is the method of preparation that is accountable for the difference. A number of the common brands of tea are blends or mixtures of green and black tea. These, which are often called _mixed teas_, are preferred by many persons to the pure tea of either kind. 47. BLACK TEA is made by fermenting the tea leaves before they are dried. This fermentation turns them black and produces a marked change in their flavor. The process of preparation also renders some of the tannin insoluble; that is, not so much of it can be dissolved when the beverage is made. Some well-known brands of black tea are _China congou_, or _English breakfast_, _Formosa_, _oolong_, and the various _pekoes_. The English are especially fond of black tea, and the people of the United States have followed their custom to the extent that it has become a favorite in this country. 48. GREEN TEA is made by steaming the leaves and then drying them, a process that retains the green color. With tea of this kind, all fermentation of the leaves is carefully avoided. Some familiar kinds of green tea are _hyson_, _Japan_, and _gunpowder_. The best of these are the ones that come from Japan. PREPARATION OF TEA 49. SELECTION OF TEA.--In the course of its preparation, tea is rolled either into long, slender pieces or into little balls. Knowing this, the housewife should be able to detect readily the stems and other foreign material sometimes found in teas, especially the cheaper varieties. Such teas should be avoided, for they are lacking not only in flavor but also in strength. If economy must be practiced, the moderately expensive grades will prove to be the best ones to buy. 50. METHODS OF MAKING TEA.--Upon steeping tea in hot water, a very pleasant beverage results. If this is properly made, a gentle stimulant that can be indulged in occasionally by normal adults without harmful results can be expected. However, the value of tea as a beverage has at all times been much overestimated. When it is served as afternoon tea, as is frequently done, its chief value lies in the pleasant hospitality that is afforded by pouring it. Especially is this the case in England, where the inhabitants have adopted the pretty custom of serving afternoon tea and feel that guests have not received the hospitality of