THE ART OF PRESERVING ALL KINDS OF ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES TEXT

an infinitely finer taste and flavour. I shell them as soon as they are gathered. I separate the large ones, and they are then put in bottles, the bottles being for that purpose placed on the stool before mentioned, in order that as many peas as possible may, by shaking the bottle, be made to go into them; I then cork the bottles, &c. and put them in the water-bath, which is made to boil for an hour and half, if the season be cool and moist; and two hours in a dry and hot season; and I terminate the operation as before. I also put in bottles the larger peas which I had separated from those which were more delicate. These, also, I put into the water-bath, which I let boil according to the season, two hours, or two hours and an half. § XVII. _Asparagus._ (_Asperge._) I clean the asparagus as if for ordinary use, either with the stalk, or the buds only. Before I put them in bottles or jars, I plunge them into boiling water, and afterwards into cold water, in order to take away the peculiar sharpness of this vegetable. The stalks are placed in the jars with great care, the heads being downwards: the buds are put in bottles. After both are well drained, I cork the bottles, &c. and I put them in the water-bath, where they remain only till the water thoroughly boils. § XVIII. _Windsor Beans._ (_Petites fèves de marais._) Neither the _feverole_ (the small dried bean) nor the _julienne_, which resembles it, are fit to be preserved. I make use of the genuine Windsor, or broad bean, which is of the thickness and breadth of the thumb, when ripe. I gather it very small, about the size of the end of the little finger, in order to preserve it with its skin. As the skin becomes brown when in contact with the air, I take the precaution of putting the beans in bottles as soon as shelled. When the bottles are full, the beans having been shaken down gently on the stool, and in that way the vacancies in the bottle having been filled up, I add to each bottle a little bunch of savory; I cork them quickly in order to give them one hour’s boiling in the water-bath. When this vegetable has been quickly gathered, prepared and preserved, it has a white, greenish colour; on the contrary, when the operation has been tardy, it becomes brown and hard. § XIX. _Peeled Windsor Beans._ (_Fèves de marais dérobées._) In order to preserve Windsor beans stripped of their skins, I gather them larger, about half an inch long at the utmost. I take off the skin, bottle them with a small bunch of savory, &c. and I put them in the water-bath, which is made to boil an hour and half. § XX. _French Beans._ (_Haricots verts et blancs._) The bean known by the name of _bayolet_, which resembles the Swiss bean, is the kind fittest to be preserved green, with the pod. It combines uniformity with the best taste. I cause the beans to be gathered as for ordinary use. I string them, and put them in bottles, taking care to shake them on the stool, to fill the vacancies in the bottles. I then cork the bottles and put them in the water-bath, which is to boil an hour and half. When the beans are rather large, I cut them lengthways into two or three pieces: and then they do not require being in the water bath longer than one hour. Of the kinds of haricot, of which the seeds or beans themselves are to be preserved, the _Soissons_ haricot is justly entitled to the preference. For want of that, I take the best of any other species of the _haricot blanc_ that I can meet with. I gather it when the shell begins to turn yellow. I then shell it immediately, and bottle it, &c. I put it in the water-bath, to give it a two hours’ boiling. § XXI. _Artichokes._ (_Artichauts._) To preserve artichokes whole, I gather them of a middling size; after having taken off all the useless leaves and pared them, I plunge them into boiling water, and immediately afterwards into cold water. Having drained them, I put them into jars which are corked, &c. and they receive an hour’s boiling. To preserve cut artichokes (_en quartiers_), I divide them (taking fine specimens) into eight pieces. I take out the choke and leave very few of the leaves. I plunge them into boiling water, and afterwards into fresh water. Having been drained, they are then placed over the fire in a saucepan, with a piece of fresh butter, seasoning, and fine herbs. When half dressed, they are taken from the fire and set by to cool. They then are put in jars, which are corked, tied, luted, &c. and placed in the water-bath, in which they receive half an hour’s boiling. § XXII. _Cauliflowers._ (_Choux-fleurs._) I plunge the cauliflower, like the artichoke, in boiling water, and then in cold water, after having first plucked it. When well drained, I put it in jars, which are corked, &c. I place it in the water-bath, in order to give it half an hour’s boiling, &c. As the seasons vary, and are sometimes dry and sometimes moist, it will be soon obvious, that it is necessary to study and adapt the various degrees of heat required according to the season. Attention to this circumstance must never be disregarded. For instance, in a cool and damp year, vegetables are more tender and consequently more sensible to the action of fire. In this case, the water-bath should be made to boil seven or eight minutes less; and in dry seasons, when vegetables are firmer, and better support the action of fire, seven or eight minutes boiling should be added. § XXIII. _Sorrel._ (_Oseille._) I gather _oseille_ (sorrel), _belle-dame_[N] _noirée_ (beet), _laitue_ (lettice), _cerfeuil_ (chervil), _ciboule_ (green onion), &c. in fit proportions. When they have all been well plucked, washed, drained, and minced, I cause the whole to be stewed together in a copper vessel well tinned. These vegetables ought to be well stewed, as if for daily use, and not dried up and burned as is often done in families, when it is intended to preserve them. This quantity of stewing is the most fit. When my herbs are thus prepared, I set them to cool in earthen or stone vessels. Afterwards I put them in bottles with a wide mouth. I cork them, &c. and I put my sorrel in the water-bath, which is allowed a quarter of an hour’s boiling merely. This time is sufficient for preserving it ten years untouched, and as fresh as if it was just taken from the garden. This mode is, without dispute, the best and most economical for families and hospitals, civil and military. It is, above all, most advantageous to the Navy: for sorrel thus prepared may be brought from the Indies, as fresh and savoury as if dressed the same day. [N] A species of the _Bella-donna_ very generally made use of as an ingredient in French soups. T. § XXIV. _Spinage, Succory, and other Herbs._ (_Epinards et chicorées._) Sorrel and succory are prepared as if for daily use. When fresh gathered, plucked, scalded, cooled, squeezed and minced, I put them in bottles, &c. to give them a quarter of an hour’s boiling in the water-bath, &c. Carrots, cabbages, turnips, parsnips, onions, potatoes, celery, chardoons, (_cardons d’Espagne_), red beet, and, generally, all vegetables, may be preserved alike, either simply scalded, or prepared with soup, in order to be used when taken out of the vessel. In the first case, I cause the vegetables to be scalded and half boiled in water with a little salt. I then take them from the water in order to strain them and let them cool; and afterwards put them into bottles, and into the water-bath. I let the carrots, cabbages, turnips, parsnips, and red beet, remain in the water-bath while it boils one hour: and the onions, potatoes, and celery, &c. half an hour. In the other case I prepare my vegetables with soup, either with or without meat, as for ordinary use. When three-fourths boiled and well prepared and seasoned, I take them from the fire to let them cool. Then I put them in bottles, &c. and give them a good quarter of an hour’s boiling in the water-bath. § XXV. _A Soup called Julienne._ I compose a _Julienne_ of carrots, leeks, turnips, sorrel, French beans, celery, green peas, &c. These I prepare in the ordinary way, which consists in cutting the carrots, turnips, leeks, French beans and celery into small pieces, either round or long. Having well plucked and washed them, I put these vegetables into a saucepan over the fire, with a largish piece of fresh butter. When these are half-done, I add the sorrel and green peas. After the whole has been stewed down, I moisten the vegetables with good gravy, prepared for the purpose, with good meat and poultry. I let the whole boil half an hour. Then I withdraw the fire to let it grow cool; and having put the Julienne into bottles, &c. I let it boil half an hour in the water-bath. Julienne prepared in this way, has been kept by me more than two years. The Julienne _au maigre_ is prepared in the same manner, except that, instead of gravy, I moisten my vegetables, when well dressed, with a clear vegetable soup, either of French beans, lentils, or large green peas, which I have preserved; and I give it in like manner half an hour’s boiling in the water-bath. § XXVI. _Vegetable Soup._ (_Coulis de Racines._) I compose and prepare a vegetable soup in the usual way; I make the soup so rich, that a bottle of the size of a _litre_ can supply a dish for twelve persons, by adding two _litres_ of water to it, before it is made use of. When it has grown cool, I put it in bottles, to give it half an hour’s boiling in the water-bath. § XXVII. _Love-Apples._ (_Tomates, ou Pommes d’Amour._) I gather love-apples very ripe, when they have acquired their beautiful colour. Having washed and drained them, I cut them into pieces, and dissolve them over the fire in a copper vessel well tinned. When they are well dissolved and reduced one third in compass, I strain them through a sieve sufficiently fine to hold the kernels. When the whole has passed through, I replace the decoction on the fire, and I condense it till there remains only one third of the first quantity. Then I let them become cool in stone pans, and put them in bottles, &c., in order to give them one good boiling only, in the water-bath. I have not yet tried any experiments with the flower of the love-apple, but there is no doubt that this new method will furnish means of deriving, at a slight expence, a great value from them also. § XXVIII. _Herbs and Medicinal Plants._ (_Plantes Potagères et Médicinales._) I filled a bottle with mint (_menthe poivrée_) in branches and full of flowers. I stirred it with a stick to make the bottle hold a greater quantity of it. I corked it well, &c. and gave it a slight boiling in the water-bath. It was perfectly preserved. The same may be done with all plants to be preserved in bunches. The operator will calculate the degree of heat which it will be necessary to give to the several subjects of his experiment.[O] [O] The mode of extracting the juice of plants by means of water has more or less inconvenience. All those juices which have a principle that is very volatile and easy to evaporate, lose infinitely, even in warm water; much more so therefore, when the heat of the water is raised to a higher degree, and when the plants have been left for a long time in digestion. Aromatic vegetables are infused, when the object is to preserve the aroma, and not impart to the water the extractive principle which the plant contains. Therefore, tea and coffee are made by infusion. But all the theories ancient and modern, and all the new apparatus employed to seize and hold fast the aroma of the coffee are still very deficient. Ebullition which is often times resorted to in order to extract the aroma of plants by means of distillation, in spite of all the apparatus made use of for keeping the same closed up, most frequently destroys the nature of the productions. Not only are the principles extracted by the water injured by this first operation, but they scarcely retain any strength after the evaporation which it is usual to make them undergo, in order to form essences of them. The extract therefore, exhibits nothing but the appearance of the soluble and nutritive principles of vegetable and animal substances; since fire, which is necessary to form an essence by means of evaporation, destroys the aroma and almost all the properties of the substance which contains it. § XXIX. _The Juices of Herbs._ I have succeeded in preserving very well the juices of such plants as lettuce, chervil, borage (_bourache_), wild succory (_chicorée sauvage_), water-cresses (_cresson de fontaine_), &c. I prepared and purified them by the usual process, I corked them, &c. in order to give them one boiling in the water-bath. § XXX. _Fruits and their Juices._ Fruits and their juices require the utmost celerity in the preparatory process, and particularly in the application of heat to the water-bath. The fruit which is to be preserved either whole or in quarters, ought not to be completely ripe, because it dissolves in the water-bath. In like manner it should not be gathered either at the commencement or the end of the season. The first and the last of the crop have neither the fine flavour, nor the perfume of those which are gathered in the heighth of the season, that is, when the greater part of the crop of each species is ripe at the same period. § XXXI. _White and Red Currants in Bunches._ (_Groseilles rouges et blanches en Grappes._) I gather the white and red currants apart, and not too ripe. I collect the finest, and in the finest bunches; and I bottle them, taking care to shake them down on the stool, in order to fill up the vacancies in the bottle. Then I cork them, &c. in order to put them in the water-bath which I am careful to watch closely; and as soon as I perceive it boils, I withdraw the fire rapidly, and a quarter of an hour afterwards draw off the water from the bath by means of the cock, &c. § XXXII. _White and Red Currants, stripped._ (_Groseilles rouges et blanches égrenées._) I strip the white and red currants apart. They are immediately put into bottles, and I conclude the operation with the same attention as in preserving the currants in bunches. I preserve a greater quantity of currants stripped, than in bunches; as the stalks always give a harshness to the currant juice. § XXXIII. _Cherries, Raspberries, Mulberries._ (_Cerises, Framboises, Mures et Cassis._) I gather these fruits before they are too ripe, that they may be less squeezed in the operation. I put them in separate bottles, and shake the bottles gently on the stool. I cork them, &c. and I complete them in the same manner, and with the same care as the currants. § XXXIV. _Juice of Red Currants._ I gather red currants quite ripe, and squeeze them upon fine sieves. I put into a press the skins which remain upon the sieves, in order to extract all the juice which may be in them, and this I mix with the former juice. I perfume the whole with a little raspberry juice, and I strain this decoction through a sieve finer than those used before. I put the juice in bottles, &c. and expose them to the water-bath, with the same attention as the stripped currants, &c. I proceed in the same manner with the juice of white currants and barberries (_épines-vinettes_), as well as with that of pomegranates, oranges, and lemons. § XXXV. _Strawberries._ (_Fraises._) I made a number of experiments on the strawberry, and in various ways, without being able to obtain its perfume. I was forced to have recourse to sugar: in consequence, I squeezed some strawberries, and strained them through a sieve, as if I were about to make ice. I added half a pound of powder sugar, with the juice of half a lemon, to a pound of strawberries. I mixed the whole together, and put the decoction in bottles which I corked, &c. I exposed it to a water-bath till it began to boil, &c. This mode succeeded very well, in every respect, except the colour, which was considerably faded; but that may be supplied. § XXXVI. _Apricots._ (_Abricots._) For the table, the wild and garden apricot (_l’abricot commun, et l’abricot péche_) both taken from trees standing free in the open air, are the best kinds for preservation: I commonly mingle these two kinds together, because the former supports the latter, which has more sugar in it, and which dissolves more from the action of heat. They may nevertheless be prepared apart, provided the precaution be taken, of letting the garden peach remain a few minutes less in the water-bath than the wild peach. That is, as soon as the water-bath begins to boil, the fire is to be taken away from the garden peach, while the fire may be allowed to remain under the wild peach until the water-bath completely boils. I gather the apricots when they are ripe, but somewhat firm; when, on being squeezed gently between the fingers, the stone is perceived to detach itself from the fruit. As soon as gathered, I cut them in halves, take out the stone, and peel off the skin with a knife as delicately as possible. I put them into bottles, either in halves or quarters, according to the size of the mouth, and shake them on the stool to fill up the vacancies. I add to each bottle from twelve to fifteen almonds; I cork them and put them into the water-bath to receive one boiling only; and I instantly withdraw the fire with the same precaution as made use of in the preparation of the currants, &c. § XXXVII. _Peaches and Nectarines._ (_Pêches, Brugnons._) The _grosse mignonne_ and the _calande_ are the two kinds of peach which unite the most flavour and perfume. For want of these, I take the best I can meet with. I gather the nectarine (_brugnon_) more ripe than the peach, because it supports the heat better: and on the other hand, I leave the skin on it in order to preserve it. Moreover, the same process is observed as in preserving the nectarine, the peach, and the apricot; in every instance watching the water-bath closely, as I do in preserving the bunches of currants. § XXXVIII. _Prunes from Green Gages, and Plumbs._ (_Prunes de Reine-Claude et Mirabelles._) I have made prunes of whole green-gages, including the stone and the stalk, as well as of other great plums; and even of _perdrigons_ and _alberges_, which succeeded very well. But there are these inconveniences in preserving the largest fruits whole, that few of these large plums can be put into even a large jar, since the vacancies cannot be filled up by shaking the fruit, without altogether crushing them; and that when the heat of the water-bath is applied to them, they shrink, and the jars are found half empty. In consequence, I have abandoned this too expensive mode, and am accustomed to preserve all these large plums, cut in halves, after having taken out the stone. This is the easiest and most economical manner, corks of a sufficiently large size for large objects being very dear, and also rare, when the cork is very fine; the vessels too which have a narrow or middling neck are more easy to be well corked, and the operation is in consequence more certain. As to the _mirabelle_ [a small white plum] and all other small plums, I prepare them with the stone in them, after having taken off the stalk; for they are in this way easier to shake close, and they leave but few vacancies in the bottles. In general, I observe, in the preservation of all these prunes, either whole or cut in halves, the same process, care and attention, which I have pointed out under the head of apricots and peaches. § XXXIX. _Pears of every kind._ When the pears are peeled, and cut into quarters, and the pips with their husks are taken out, I put them into bottles, &c. in order to place them in the water-bath. I carefully attend to the degree of heat they have to receive, which, if they are of a kind usually eaten raw,