THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
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r score of the favourite sorts of Peas or Beans grown to-day with the same number of favourites of half or even a quarter of a century since will at once prove that progress in horticu
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lly touch up the sides to make them neat and tidy. It is usual at the same time to dig and manure the alleys, but this practice we object to _in toto_, because it tends directly to the
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enhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in precisely the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is convenient in cases where heavy water-logged ground precludes o
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y where fine specimens of long Beet were rarely obtainable. From this same unkind clay it is possible to secure good crops of long Beets, by making deep holes with a dibber a foot apar
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r and early spring. Sow in April and the plants may be treated in the same way as other hardy winter greens. They should have the most liberal culture possible, for which they will not
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finish the crop. Radishes and other small things can be grown on the same bed. In cold frames seed may be sown in February. Warm Borders.—In March the first sowings on warm borders i
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to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put out in the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but as the season advances the trenches must be less deep.
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regards watering, the important point is to employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame read
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Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April. Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally ob
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with a somewhat nutty tendency, and may be prepared for table in the same manner. Kohl Rabi is cultivated in much the same way as Turnips. Seed may be sown at any time from March to
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than the favourites of years gone by. The Melon is grown in much the same way as the Cucumber, but it differs in requiring a firmer soil, a higher temperature, a much stronger light,
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nd renewing the soil periodically. The details of cultivation are the same within doors as without, but the roof gives valuable protection, and helps to maintain the beds at a suitable
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ns, intended for use in the following summer, may also be sown in the same way as advised for spring sowing. The time of sowing is important, as the plants should be forward enough bef
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it will be found good practice to grow Peas and early Potatoes on the same plot, and to put short sticks to the Peas as soon as they are forward enough. By this management the first to
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e to cover the tops with a few inches of light dry litter in just the same way that a bed of Radishes is protected. There are many other methods of saving the rising shaws. A plank on
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taken up and stored in sand. These Radishes may also be cooked in the same manner as Turnips and they make an excellent dish. RHUBARB Rheum hybridum RHUBARB is so much valued that w
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which will form the crowns for cutting in the following year. At the same time take away any small blanched shoots that may have been left because they were too small or insignificant
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. It is a better plan to make a small plantation annually, and at the same time destroy an old plantation that has served its turn. But we are bound to say that Strawberry plantations,
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ills twelve to fifteen inches apart, three inches deep, and about the same width, and almost fill them with rotten manure, or with a mixture of earth and guano, or wood ashes; cover th
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r the structure may be, the mode of culture remains substantially the same in any case. Now, as to soil, a compost made of mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal parts will be effec
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c.—So far as seed sowing is concerned, Celeriac may be treated in the same way as Celery. Celery.—For the earliest supply, sow on the first of the month a pinch of seed of one or more
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and from the syringe. But the water employed should always be of the same temperature as the bed. This is easily managed by keeping a full can standing with the plants. In large frame
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must be done in a systematic manner, and if practicable always by the same person. It is better to cut all the shoots as fast as they attain a proper size, and sort them for use accord
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demands of the kitchen constant. Crowding, however, is not quite the same thing as overcrowding, and it is only a waste of labour, land and crop to put the plants so close together th
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pose, then, that we grow Cabbage, or Cauliflower, or Broccoli, on the same plot of ground, one crop following the other for a long series of years, and never refresh the soil with manu
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at it may be kept from being dissipated in the atmosphere, and at the same time be always in a state in which it can be appropriated by the plant. In all good manures, however, there i
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soda 5 lb. superphosphate 1 lb. sulphate of potash LEEKS require the same fertilisers as Onions, but will need little or no nitrate if good dung is used. POTATO.—For good yield, high
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final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks,
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have a good chance from the first. Tender Annuals.—These require the same general treatment as advised for half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat than is ne
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ay be stored for their season of rest, allowing them to remain in the same pots. They can be put away in a dry cellar, or on the ground, covered up with sand, in any shed or frame wher
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of which _C. profusa_ (_Clibrani_) is the most popular, that bear the same relation to the Large-flowered Calceolaria as the Star Cineraria does to the Florist’s Cineraria. In point of
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named. Star Cinerarias (_C. stellata_) are grown under precisely the same conditions as the Florists’ or Show Cinerarias, and this type of flower is highly valued for its singular gra
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them; therefore it is advisable to plant Lettuces plentifully at the same time, or previously, on the same ground, and to dust around the Dahlias with lime. Insert at least one stake,
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rainage will do something towards preventing this. Another aid in the same direction is to cover the seed with a layer of sand, and the sand with a thin coating of ordinary potting soi
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from seed in spring. Sow in heat in March and April, and treat in the same manner as Balsams until the time arrives for planting out. A rich sandy loam suits them, and they like full e
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ity of exposure should be lost. In raising Petunias for bedding, the same conditions are applicable; but as it is useless to put them into the open ground until the weather is warm an
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LIAM Dianthus barbatus. Hardy biennial Sweet William belongs to the same genus as the Pink. The finest strains produce superb heads of flowers, some of them intensely rich in colour,
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humblest amateur to employ freely in his borders and beds, and at the same time so effective in its colouring as to be adapted for the most complex and highly finished examples of geom
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, both for its foliage and flowers. It does not resent forcing to the same extent as the Ranunculus; nevertheless, cool treatment is almost essential to do it full justice. The potting
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oo much damp, often causes the loss of the bulb. Besides growing the same plants from year to year, it is always desirable to have a fresh stock coming on, as the old bulbs may deteri
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y in spring. If carefully managed, they may remain two seasons in the same pots. Use the 48-size, and plant four or five bulbs in each. A dry, deep, sandy border under a wall in any of
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when the blossoms begin to open this must be discontinued, and at the same time the heat should be diminished. A succession of Narcissi for indoor decoration can be secured by startin
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hand will seldom err on this point. The water should always be of the same temperature as the house, otherwise the plants will be constantly checked. A tank in the greenhouse meets thi
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e manner advised for Gloxinia, and the two plants may be grown in the same house. Gloxinia.—From two or three sowings, and by a little management, it is easy to have a supply of this
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feet in height. It is a half-hardy annual, and should be grown in the same manner as Nicotiana. Salpiglossis merits its increasing popularity. A sowing at the end of this month or the
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steady progress without a check until they can be planted out. At the same time they must be hardened in readiness for removal to the open ground; and if the work is carried on with ju
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e grown in small groups or alone in beds, the treatment should be the same in either case. With light land there is no difficulty; it is only needful to dig it well, and to incorporate
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trong before cold weather sets in. Chionodoxa can be forced with the same ease as Roman Hyacinths. A 48-sized pot will accommodate several bulbs. Cinerarias are frequently placed in
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a time when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the same class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to ornamental contrivances. Iris.—The tubero
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hat the flowers from very late plantings will be quite so good as the same bulbs would have produced had they been put in at an earlier period. Still there are cases when the delay is
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the pipes should be painted. Be careful not to raise the heat at the same time, for if the pipes are hotter than the hand can bear fumes destructive to vegetation will be given off. M
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, and in the extent of damage they cause, Snails may be placed in the same category as Slugs. During the day the Snail usually remains in hiding, emerging from rockeries and creeper-co
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in a very similar manner to the Bordeaux mixture, and is made in the same way as the latter, except that washing soda (five pounds) is substituted for quicklime. Those who leave Pota
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the branches growing from the stem both before and behind are for the same reason left out. At B a tip of a single branch is shown further enlarged to four hundred diameters. The spore
of producing some of the most elegant garden flowers in one season from
seed alone.
The time and the method of sowing flower seeds must in each case be
regulated by considerations as to their nature. Seeds of tender plants
are usually sown in pots or pans and placed on a moderate hot-bed or in
a propagating house early in spring, and in this case the plants have
greenhouse cultivation until the time arrives for hardening them off
preparatory to final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be
treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for
their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks, plants that
differ immensely in habit and constitution, may all be sown in
February, and put side by side in the same warm pit or vinery, or even
in the warmest corner of any greenhouse, and the very same treatment
will suit them equally well. The soil should be principally loam and
sand, with a little old thoroughly well-rotted manure from a hot-bed or
compost heap; and light, air, and moisture must be regulated with a
view to insure a free and vigorous growth from the first, with the
least possible amount of artificial heat. In some cases, however, the
sowing should be deferred to March or April, and the result will be far
more satisfactory than the growth made under the stimulus of artificial
heat earlier in the season. But in every case the plants must have
sufficient time; for although the rapid system has been developed, the
constitution of the plants remains unchanged, and those which have
heretofore been classed as biennials and perennials need a long season
when treated as annuals.
A considerable proportion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed
by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as
an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame and some
packets of seed, and the month of February or March has arrived. The
pans and pots are made ready with sweet sandy compost, and the seeds
are sown and labelled, and the pans and pots are packed together in the
frame on a bed of clean coal ashes, or some slates, or tiles, or bricks
laid on the soil, to promote warmth and cleanliness and to prevent the
intrusion of worms among the seeds. By simple management almost as
quick a growth of seeds can be insured in this frame as with the aid of
a hot-bed, and the secret consists in careful storage of the heat of
the sun. Lay over the seed-pans sheets of glass to prevent evaporation,
and let the sun shine full upon them. Be careful as to moisture: they
must never be wet, never dry, and the water must not be slopped about
carelessly. It is a good rule to immerse the pots or pans in a vessel
containing soft water, slightly tepid. When the seedlings begin to
appear, give a little air and lay sheets of paper tenderly over them
during the hour or two at midday when the sun may be shining brightly.
But keep them from the first as ‘hard’ as possible with plenty of light
and air, always taking care that they are neither roasted, nor blown
away by the cruel east wind, nor nipped at night by a killing frost. A
few old mats or light loppings of trees laid over the frame from
sundown to sunrise will be sufficient protection at those trying times;
and when spring frosts are making havoc with the tender sprouting leaf
and bloom in every part of the garden those little things will be safe
under their glass cover, and slight experience will show that a common
frame may become a miniature hot-house in the hands of one who has
learned to make failure the stepping-stone to success. We must not omit
to mention that the owner of such a garden, or, indeed, of any garden,
will be prudent to take advantage of the first fine weather to sow in
the open ground whatever flower or vegetable seeds should be sown at
that season. The frame garden can be reserved, if needful, for wet
weather, because it is of the utmost importance to sow a good breadth
of seeds in the open ground as early as possible in the month of March.
Turning from this small example to the great garden, it will be obvious
that to those who always have heavy work on hand the advantages of this
transference, of labour from the old system to the new are immense.
Both to employers and gardeners the advantages are of importance; the
propagation of bedders by cuttings, and of florists’ flowers by suckers
and divisions and layers and pipings, will not, of course, be
completely abolished; but for all ordinary purposes the ends in view
may be accomplished more simply, more expeditiously, and more cheaply
than heretofore. The pits hitherto appropriated to bedders, and the
like, may to a great extent be liberated, and there will be no
difficulty in finding for them more profitable occupants. While
Mushrooms and early Potatoes and winter salads are in request, it will
be a gain to many a garden to have reduced the summer display of
flowers to a simple system of seed-sowing, at an expense that may be
described as merely nominal.
Before dealing specifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable
to say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy,
Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials.
Annuals.—Although the most popular kinds of annuals are largely
employed in the embellishment of flower gardens, they are adapted for
many uses to which they may with advantage be more frequently applied.
A few misconceptions prevail as to the relative merits of this class of
plants. By some they are regarded as ‘weedy’ and ‘short-lived.’ Their
very cheapness, and the relatively small amount of skill required in
their cultivation, tend in some degree to detract from their value in
public estimation. We will not be so rash as to say that a more
extended use of annuals would render unnecessary the cultivation of
what are especially known as ‘bedding plants’; but there is something
to be said on behalf of annuals that may be worth the consideration of
all who are interested in the development of freshness, variety, and
richness of colour in the flower garden. In the first place, these
plants come into flower within a comparatively short period of time
from the sowing of the seed, and it is a matter of considerable
importance that a large proportion of the best continue beautiful until
the very close of the season. Sometimes in the autumn Geraniums become
literally washed out, while Tom Thumb Nasturtiums may be ablaze with
colour, and continue so when the Geraniums are housed for the winter. A
large number of showy and long-lasting annuals are adapted for
employment in bedding, and by a little management those that do not
last the season out may be replaced by others for succession; thus
affording the advantage of increased variety, and making no demand for
glass and fuel to keep them through the winter as do the ordinary
bedders. We have had great and glorious sheets of Candytufts,
snow-white, rich crimson, and bright carmine; and when they began to
wane they were removed, and the ground planted with Asters, and very
soon there was another display, so fresh and bright and various that no
greenhouse bedders could surpass them. Great hungry banks, that would
have swallowed many pounds’ worth of greenhouse plants to cover them,
have been made delightfully gay at a very trifling cost by sowing upon
them Tropæolums, Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, _Bartonia aurea_, the dwarf
varieties of _Lupinus_, Virginian Stock, _Collinsia bicolor_,
Convolvuluses, Candytufts, Eschscholtzias, Poppies, and Clarkias; and
damp, half-shady borders have been delicately tessellated by means of
Forget-me-nots, Venus’ Looking-glass, Pansies, the Rosy Oxalis,
Nemophilas, Godetias, Silenes, Coreopsis, and Scabious.
For the more important positions in the flower garden we have choice of
many really sumptuous subjects, such as Stocks, Asters, Balsams,
Drummond’s Phlox, Lobelias, the lovely new varieties of Antirrhinums,
Dianthus, Portulacas, Zinnias, tall Stock-flowered Larkspurs, Nemesias,
and many other flowers equally beautiful and lasting. We do not hope by
these brief remarks to change the prevailing fashion—indeed, we have no
particular wish that way—but we feel bound to observe that it is
sufficient for the beauty of the garden that the greenhouse bedders
should be confined to the parterre proper. It is waste of space and
opportunity to place them in the borders everywhere, as is too commonly
done. In sunny borders, annual and perennial herbaceous plants are far
more appropriate.
Some time since, while walking over a large garden, we left the rich
colouring of the geometric beds to discover what should make the
wondrous glow of crimson on a border far away; and to our surprise it
proved to be a clump of the Indian Pink, which had been sown as an
annual with other annuals, and was there shining in the midst of a
constellation of the loveliest flowers of all forms and hues, the
result simply of sowing a few packets of seed. No one can despise the
Wallflower in the spring, and the heavenly-blue flowers of _Nemophila
insignis_ in early summer will tempt many a one to walk in the garden
who would care little for sheets of scarlet and yellow that in full
sunshine make the eyes ache to look upon them. It must be remembered,
too, that among annuals are found many most richly-scented flowers;
others, like the everlastings and the grasses, are valuable to dry for
winter use for employment in bouquets, and garlands in Christmas
decorations; and the Sweet Peas, and _Tropæolum canariense,_ and
climbing Convolvulus may be employed to cover arbours and trellises
with the best effect possible, and may even be allowed to hang in
festoons about the sunny parts of rockeries, or trail over the ground
to make genuine bedding effects. Another important matter must have
mention here, and we commend it to the consideration of gardeners who
are severely taxed to secure extensive displays of flowers during the
summer season. It is that a number of plants of highly ornamental
character, usually treated as perennials, are really more effective,
besides occasioning less labour to produce them, when cultivated as
annuals. The Dianthus and its several splendid varieties do better as
annuals than biennials. For all the ordinary purposes of display,
Lobelias may be as well grown from seed as from cuttings, and in every
garden will be found proof of the small amount of care they require;
for we find stray, self-sown plants in pots of Geraniums and other
places, and these, if left alone, become perfect bushes, and are a mass
of flowers all the summer. Many annuals commonly reputed to be tender
and usually raised in heat do very well indeed on a more rough and
ready method. In proof of this, sow _Perilla nankinensis_ in the first
week of May where it is required, and in the month of July you will
probably be convinced that Perilla does not always need careful nursing
in heated houses through the spring. Even the really tender Castor-oil
Plant will thrive if sown in the open ground the first week in May.
Having no check, as plants put out from pots must have, the growth will
be regular and sturdy, and attain magnificent dimensions.
Perhaps the most effective way of growing annuals is to arrange them in
harmonious blendings or contrasts of colour. The wide choice of
varieties available admits of an almost endless number of combinations,
and the following tables, classified according to colour, will no doubt
afford some serviceable suggestions, although these by no means exhaust
the list. The height is indicated in feet and Climbers as ‘Cl.’
WHITE, AND CREAM SHADES.
TALL.
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Princess May 3
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Double white 3
Cornflower, White 3
Helichrysum, Silver Globe 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, White 3
Lavatera alba splendens 3
Poppy, Giant Double, White 3
Poppy Giant Single, White 3
Scabious, Snowball 3
Chrysanthemum carinatum album 2-1/2
Chrysanthemum Dunnetti, Double white 2-1/2
Nasturtium, Tall, Pearl Cl.
MEDIUM.
Clarkia elegans, Snowball 2
Lupinus Hartwegii, White 2
Malope, White 2
Poppy, White Swan 2
Shirley, Double White 2
Calendula pluvialis 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum
Clarkia, Double White 1-1/2
Gilia nivalis 1-1/2
Gypsophila elegans 1-1/2
Hawkweed, White 1-1/2
Hawkweed Silver 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, White 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant White 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Dwarf double white 1-1/4
DWARF.
Acroclinium, Single White 1
Candytuft, Improved White Spiral 1
Clarkia, Dwarf white 1
Clarkia Double dwarf white 1
Convolvulus minor, White 1
Eschscholtzia crocea alba 1
Godetia, Duchess of Albany 1
Layia elegans alba 1
Linaria, Snow-white 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Pearl 1
Platystemon californicus 1
Viscaria, Pure White 1
Alyssum, Sweet 3/4
Chrysanthemum inodorum plenis-simum,
Bridal Robe 3/4
Collinsia candidissima 3/4
Godetia, Dwarf White 3/4
Swan River Daisy, White 3/4
Swan River Daisy Star White 3/4
Venus’ Looking-glass, White 3/4
Venus’ Navel-wort 3/4
Virginian Stock, White 3/4
Candytuft, Little Prince 1/2
Nemophila insignis alba 1/2
Alyssum minimum 1/3
Silene, Dwarf White 1/3
YELLOW AND ORANGE SHADES
TALL.
Sunflower, Giant Yellow 10
Sunflower Primrose Perfection 6
Sunflower Miniature 4
Sunflower Stella 4
Sunflower Primrose Stella 4
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Chrysanthemum Double yellow 3
Chrysanthemum, Golden Queen 3
Coreopsis tinctoria 3
Helichrysum, Golden Globe 3
Sunflower, Dwarf Double 3
Sunflower Single Dwarf 3
Chrysanthemum Dunnettii,
Chrysanthemum Double Golden 2-1/2
Marigold, African 2-1/2
Nasturtium, Ivy-leaved Golden Gem Cl.
Nasturtium, Tall, Yellow Cl.
MEDIUM.
Hibiscus africanus major 2
Bartonia aurea 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum, Star varieties 1-1/2
Coreopsis Drummondii 1-1/2
Coreopsis coronata 1-1/2
Erysimum, Orange Gem 1-1/2
Hawkweed, Yellow 1-1/2
Leptosyne Stillmani 1-1/2
Lupinus Menziesii 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Yellow 1-1/2
DWARF.
Calendula, Orange King 1
Calendula Lemon Queen 1
Cheiranthus Allionii 1
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Dwarf double yellow 1
Dimorphotheca aurantiaca 1
Eschscholtzia californica 1
Escholtzia, crocea 1
Escholtzia, crocea fl. pl. 1
Eschscholtzia, Mikado 3/4
Layia elegans 1
Lupinus, Dwarf yellow 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Cloth of Gold 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Yellow 1
Tagetes signata pumila 1
Tagetes Mandarin 3/4
Linaria, Golden Gem 3/4
Marigold, Miniature orange 3/4
Marigold Miniature orange 3/4
Eschscholtzia, Miniature Primrose 1/2
Limnanthes Douglasii 1/2
Sanvitalia procumbens, Single 1/2
Sanvitalia Double 1/2
Leptosiphon aureus 1/4
BLUE, MAUVE, AND PURPLE SHADES.
TALL.
Cornflower, Blue 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Blue 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Pale Mauve 3
Lupinus, Tall dark blue 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Mauve 3
Scabious, Mauve 3
MEDIUM.
Godetia, Double Mauve 2
Lupinus Hartwegii, Azure Blue 2
Poppy, Mauve Queen 2
Sweet Sultan, Purple 2
Xeranthemum superbissimum 2
Xeranthemum imperiale 2
Anchusa, Annual Blue 1-1/2
Gilia capitata 1-1/2
Gilia tricolour 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, Purple 1-1/2
Nigella, Miss Jekyll 1-1/2
Phacelia tanacetifolia 1-1/2
Salvia, Blue Beard 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant Delicate Mauve 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant Mauve 1-1/2
DWARF.
Asperula azurea setosa 1
Candytuft, Lilac 1
Convolvulus minor, Dark blue 1
Convolvulus Sky-blue 1
Cornflower, King of Blue Bottles 1
Eutoca viscida 1
Linaria, Mauve 1
Lupinus, Dwarf rich blue 1
Mathiola bicornis 1
Phacelia congesta 1
Viscaria, Bright Blue 1
Whitlavia gloxinioides 1
Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf blue 3/4
Leptosiphon androsaceus 3/4
Nigella, Double dwarf 3/4
Phacelia campanularia 3/4
Swan River Daisy, Blue 3/4
Swan River Daisy, Star Blue 3/4
Campanula attica 1/2
Nemophila insignis 1/2
PINK AND ROSE SHADES
TALL.
Cornflower, Pink 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Rosy Scarlet 3
Lavatera rosea splendens 3
Lupinus mutabilis, Cream and Pink 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Chamois-rose 3
Scabious, Pink 3
Nasturtium, Salmon Queen Cl.
Nasturtium, Rosy Queen Cl.
MEDIUM.
Clarkia elegans, Double Salmon 2
Clarkia elegans, Double Delicate Pink 2
Godetia, Double Rose 2
Jacobea, Single, Bright Rose 2
Poppy, Pink Gem 2
Poppy, Cardinal, Salmon-pink 2
Poppy, Shirley, Single Rose-pink 2
Poppy, Shirley, Double Pink 2
Saponaria Vaccaria, Pink 2
Clarkia, Double Rose 1-1/2
Hawkweed, Pink 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, Rose 1-1/2
Silene Armeria, Rose 1-1/2
Statice Suworowi 1-1/4
DWARF.
Acroclinium, Double rose 1
Acrolinium, Single rose 1
Convolvulus minor, Pink 1
Eschscholtzia, Frilled Pink 1
Escholtzia, Rosy Queen 1
Escholtzia, Rose cardinal 1
Gypsophila elegans, Delicate pink 1
Lupinus, Dwarf delicate pink 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Salmon Pink 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, cæruleum roseum 1
Silene, Double Salmon Pink 1
Silene, Double Delicate Pink 1
Silene, Bonetti 1
Silene, Pseudo-Atocion 1
Statice spicata 1
Viscaria, Delicate Pink 1
Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf rose 3/4
Godetia, Dwarf Pink 3/4
Godetia, Satin-rose 3/4
Abronia umbellata 1/2
Candytuft, Dwarf Pink 1/2
Saponaria calabrica 1/2
Silene, Double Dwarf Delicate Pink 1/3
Silene, Double Dwarf Brilliant Rose 1/3
Silene, Bonetti, Dwarf Pink 1/3
Leptosiphon roseus 1/4
CRIMSON AND SCARLET SHADES,
including Carmine and Ruby.
TALL.
Coreopsis atrosanguinea 3
Helichrysum, Fireball 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Scarlet 3
Polygonum, Ruby Gem 2-1/2
Malope, Red 2
Nasturtium, Tall, Improved Lucifer Cl.
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