THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
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r score of the favourite sorts of Peas or Beans grown to-day with the same number of favourites of half or even a quarter of a century since will at once prove that progress in horticu
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lly touch up the sides to make them neat and tidy. It is usual at the same time to dig and manure the alleys, but this practice we object to _in toto_, because it tends directly to the
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enhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in precisely the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is convenient in cases where heavy water-logged ground precludes o
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y where fine specimens of long Beet were rarely obtainable. From this same unkind clay it is possible to secure good crops of long Beets, by making deep holes with a dibber a foot apar
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r and early spring. Sow in April and the plants may be treated in the same way as other hardy winter greens. They should have the most liberal culture possible, for which they will not
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finish the crop. Radishes and other small things can be grown on the same bed. In cold frames seed may be sown in February. Warm Borders.—In March the first sowings on warm borders i
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to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put out in the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but as the season advances the trenches must be less deep.
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regards watering, the important point is to employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame read
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Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April. Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally ob
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with a somewhat nutty tendency, and may be prepared for table in the same manner. Kohl Rabi is cultivated in much the same way as Turnips. Seed may be sown at any time from March to
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than the favourites of years gone by. The Melon is grown in much the same way as the Cucumber, but it differs in requiring a firmer soil, a higher temperature, a much stronger light,
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nd renewing the soil periodically. The details of cultivation are the same within doors as without, but the roof gives valuable protection, and helps to maintain the beds at a suitable
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ns, intended for use in the following summer, may also be sown in the same way as advised for spring sowing. The time of sowing is important, as the plants should be forward enough bef
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it will be found good practice to grow Peas and early Potatoes on the same plot, and to put short sticks to the Peas as soon as they are forward enough. By this management the first to
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e to cover the tops with a few inches of light dry litter in just the same way that a bed of Radishes is protected. There are many other methods of saving the rising shaws. A plank on
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taken up and stored in sand. These Radishes may also be cooked in the same manner as Turnips and they make an excellent dish. RHUBARB Rheum hybridum RHUBARB is so much valued that w
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which will form the crowns for cutting in the following year. At the same time take away any small blanched shoots that may have been left because they were too small or insignificant
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. It is a better plan to make a small plantation annually, and at the same time destroy an old plantation that has served its turn. But we are bound to say that Strawberry plantations,
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ills twelve to fifteen inches apart, three inches deep, and about the same width, and almost fill them with rotten manure, or with a mixture of earth and guano, or wood ashes; cover th
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r the structure may be, the mode of culture remains substantially the same in any case. Now, as to soil, a compost made of mellow turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal parts will be effec
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c.—So far as seed sowing is concerned, Celeriac may be treated in the same way as Celery. Celery.—For the earliest supply, sow on the first of the month a pinch of seed of one or more
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and from the syringe. But the water employed should always be of the same temperature as the bed. This is easily managed by keeping a full can standing with the plants. In large frame
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must be done in a systematic manner, and if practicable always by the same person. It is better to cut all the shoots as fast as they attain a proper size, and sort them for use accord
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demands of the kitchen constant. Crowding, however, is not quite the same thing as overcrowding, and it is only a waste of labour, land and crop to put the plants so close together th
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pose, then, that we grow Cabbage, or Cauliflower, or Broccoli, on the same plot of ground, one crop following the other for a long series of years, and never refresh the soil with manu
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at it may be kept from being dissipated in the atmosphere, and at the same time be always in a state in which it can be appropriated by the plant. In all good manures, however, there i
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soda 5 lb. superphosphate 1 lb. sulphate of potash LEEKS require the same fertilisers as Onions, but will need little or no nitrate if good dung is used. POTATO.—For good yield, high
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final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks,
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have a good chance from the first. Tender Annuals.—These require the same general treatment as advised for half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat than is ne
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ay be stored for their season of rest, allowing them to remain in the same pots. They can be put away in a dry cellar, or on the ground, covered up with sand, in any shed or frame wher
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of which _C. profusa_ (_Clibrani_) is the most popular, that bear the same relation to the Large-flowered Calceolaria as the Star Cineraria does to the Florist’s Cineraria. In point of
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named. Star Cinerarias (_C. stellata_) are grown under precisely the same conditions as the Florists’ or Show Cinerarias, and this type of flower is highly valued for its singular gra
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them; therefore it is advisable to plant Lettuces plentifully at the same time, or previously, on the same ground, and to dust around the Dahlias with lime. Insert at least one stake,
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rainage will do something towards preventing this. Another aid in the same direction is to cover the seed with a layer of sand, and the sand with a thin coating of ordinary potting soi
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from seed in spring. Sow in heat in March and April, and treat in the same manner as Balsams until the time arrives for planting out. A rich sandy loam suits them, and they like full e
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ity of exposure should be lost. In raising Petunias for bedding, the same conditions are applicable; but as it is useless to put them into the open ground until the weather is warm an
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LIAM Dianthus barbatus. Hardy biennial Sweet William belongs to the same genus as the Pink. The finest strains produce superb heads of flowers, some of them intensely rich in colour,
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humblest amateur to employ freely in his borders and beds, and at the same time so effective in its colouring as to be adapted for the most complex and highly finished examples of geom
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, both for its foliage and flowers. It does not resent forcing to the same extent as the Ranunculus; nevertheless, cool treatment is almost essential to do it full justice. The potting
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oo much damp, often causes the loss of the bulb. Besides growing the same plants from year to year, it is always desirable to have a fresh stock coming on, as the old bulbs may deteri
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y in spring. If carefully managed, they may remain two seasons in the same pots. Use the 48-size, and plant four or five bulbs in each. A dry, deep, sandy border under a wall in any of
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when the blossoms begin to open this must be discontinued, and at the same time the heat should be diminished. A succession of Narcissi for indoor decoration can be secured by startin
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hand will seldom err on this point. The water should always be of the same temperature as the house, otherwise the plants will be constantly checked. A tank in the greenhouse meets thi
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e manner advised for Gloxinia, and the two plants may be grown in the same house. Gloxinia.—From two or three sowings, and by a little management, it is easy to have a supply of this
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feet in height. It is a half-hardy annual, and should be grown in the same manner as Nicotiana. Salpiglossis merits its increasing popularity. A sowing at the end of this month or the
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steady progress without a check until they can be planted out. At the same time they must be hardened in readiness for removal to the open ground; and if the work is carried on with ju
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e grown in small groups or alone in beds, the treatment should be the same in either case. With light land there is no difficulty; it is only needful to dig it well, and to incorporate
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trong before cold weather sets in. Chionodoxa can be forced with the same ease as Roman Hyacinths. A 48-sized pot will accommodate several bulbs. Cinerarias are frequently placed in
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a time when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the same class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to ornamental contrivances. Iris.—The tubero
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hat the flowers from very late plantings will be quite so good as the same bulbs would have produced had they been put in at an earlier period. Still there are cases when the delay is
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the pipes should be painted. Be careful not to raise the heat at the same time, for if the pipes are hotter than the hand can bear fumes destructive to vegetation will be given off. M
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, and in the extent of damage they cause, Snails may be placed in the same category as Slugs. During the day the Snail usually remains in hiding, emerging from rockeries and creeper-co
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in a very similar manner to the Bordeaux mixture, and is made in the same way as the latter, except that washing soda (five pounds) is substituted for quicklime. Those who leave Pota
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the branches growing from the stem both before and behind are for the same reason left out. At B a tip of a single branch is shown further enlarged to four hundred diameters. The spore
Spraying Potato plants twice or thrice with Bordeaux mixture has proved
effective in warding off the attack of _Phytophthora infestans_, and
the practice is now freely adopted, especially in humid districts. The
first application should be given towards the end of June or early in
July, immediately the haulm is sufficiently developed. The Bordeaux
mixture is made in the proportion of four pounds of pure copper
sulphate and two pounds of quicklime to forty gallons of water. The
foregoing quantities will give what is known as the _one per cent._
mixture. For the _two per cent._ mixture the quantities of copper
sulphate and quicklime must be doubled, but the amount of water should
remain at forty gallons. In its effect on the fungus, however, little
difference is to be found between the two solutions. The copper
sulphate is stirred into a few gallons of hot water placed in a wooden
tub or earthenware vessel. When quite dissolved, add twenty or thirty
gallons of cold water. The lime, which must be freshly burnt quicklime,
is then slaked in another vessel and thoroughly stirred with two or
three gallons of water until it is of the consistency of thin cream. As
soon as the liquid is quite cold, filter it through coarse sacking into
the copper sulphate solution and add water to make a total of forty
gallons. To be effective, Bordeaux mixture must be applied in the form
of a fine spray, and not with a coarse-holed syringe.
The Burgundy mixture, the use of which is preferred by some, acts in a
very similar manner to the Bordeaux mixture, and is made in the same
way as the latter, except that washing soda (five pounds) is
substituted for quicklime.
Those who leave Potatoes to rot in the ground because the crop is not
worth digging, or who bury diseased haulm and tubers in a shallow
trench, under the impression that it is a safe way of getting rid of
worthless vegetation, are simply storing _Phytophthora_ for another
attack in the event of Potatoes being planted in the same land again.
If buried at all, it must be at a considerable depth, but the effectual
method is to destroy all Potato refuse by fire.
Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes (_Synchytrium endobioticum_,
Percival).—This extremely infectious and destructive disease of the
Potato has been given a variety of names in different parts of the
country, but it is now generally known as the Wart or Cauliflower
Disease, the latter term being attributable to the Cauliflower-like
appearance of the outgrowth of the fungus. This outgrowth first shows
in the eyes of the young Potato in the form of small wrinkled warts.
These multiply and combine, thus creating a dark spongy scab which
eventually decomposes. Where the disease is very rife it attacks haulm
as well as tubers, and a yellowish-green mass may sometimes be found
just above or just below the surface of the soil. As a rule, however,
no outward indication of its existence is to be seen in the crop during
the early stages of growth, but towards the end of the season the haulm
of badly diseased plants often retains a fresh green appearance when
the foliage of others, which are healthy or only slightly attacked, is
dying off.
Infection is perhaps most commonly spread by the planting of diseased
tubers. Another frequent means of dissemination is caused by consigning
infected haulm to the waste heap instead of to the fire. The spores may
also be introduced in manure from animals fed on diseased Potatoes in a
raw state, and they may even be carried from one plot to another on
garden implements or the boots of those who walk across infected
ground. Immediately any sign of the disease is observed it should be
dealt with promptly and in no uncertain manner. Every particle of the
infected material must be carefully collected and burned. Dig out the
soil around all diseased plants and burn this also. On infected land it
is important that some crop other than Potatoes be taken in the season
following the outbreak, and, if possible, such land should not be used
for Potatoes for at least five or six years. But where garden space is
limited, a contaminated plot may have to be requisitioned for Potatoes
within two or three years. In such cases it is an excellent plan to
dust the sets freely with sulphur at the time of planting and to repeat
the application before earthing up.
Although for some years the unremitting labour of experts has been
devoted to the investigation of Wart Disease, and innumerable
experiments have been undertaken, no effectual remedy has yet been
discovered. It has been found, however, that certain Potatoes are
resistant to the disease, and by order of the Ministry of Agriculture
and Fisheries none but ‘immune’ varieties may be planted in districts
scheduled as infected areas. A notification of the existence of Wart
Disease must be made to the Ministry immediately it is observed.
Leaf Spot of Celery.—This disease, which is caused by a minute fungus
(_Septoria apii_, Chester), is capable of inflicting serious damage to
the Celery crop unless prompt measures are taken to exterminate it. The
first sign of its appearance is to be found in the leaves in the form
of small brown patches. These are, however, quite distinct from the
spots deficient of leaf-green due to the attack of the Celery Fly
larvæ, and on close examination may be recognised by the presence of a
number of very small black points. From the leaves the fungus quickly
spreads over the leaf-stalks and finally to the heart of the plant,
ending in its total collapse. So rapid is the multiplication of the
spores, especially in moist weather, that a few diseased plants are
capable of infecting a large plot within two or three weeks.
Immediately discoloration of a leaf is noticed the affected portion of
the plant should be picked off. If the stage of the disease is so far
advanced that the outer leaf-stalks have become decayed, the entire
plant should be removed and destroyed. It is of the utmost importance
that every particle of diseased material be consigned to the fire and
not to the waste heap. Spraying three or four times with Bordeaux
mixture at intervals of two or three weeks may be helpful in the case
of a light attack, but the safest course always is to remove and
destroy any plant on which the fungus is found. One of the most
frequent means of introducing Leaf Spot of Celery is through the use of
infected seed, and therefore only seed which has been treated for the
destruction of the fungus should be sown.
Lettuce Mildew.—This fungus is named _Bremia lactucæ_, formerly known
as _Peronospora ganglioniformis_, and is sometimes of the most
destructive character. It covers Lettuce leaves with a fine white
bloom, which decomposes the leaves, and makes them adhere together in
one putrescent mass. It should be looked for in its earliest stages,
and be hand-picked and burned. Old Lettuce stumps should likewise be
pulled and burned, otherwise they may harbour the disease.
Onion Mildew is caused by the fungus _Peronospora Schleideni_, which is
occasionally disastrous in its effects, more especially in cold, wet
seasons. It occurs at uncertain intervals of time with extraordinary
virulence, and then utterly destroys the crops. Autumn sowing is
considered a good preventive by many growers, as the disease is
frequently fatal to spring seedlings. In its early stages the mildew
may be successfully dealt with by freely dusting the plants with
flowers of sulphur when wet with dew, or by the application of sulphide
of potassium in the proportion of one ounce to a gallon of water.
Otherwise all diseased material should be removed and burned.
Pea Disease.—Although garden Peas often suffer badly from the attacks
of _Peronospora viciæ_, which is the cause of Pea Mould, yet the most
deadly foe to Peas, especially late Peas, is a fungus of a totally
different character. To such an extent does the Pea Blight sometimes
devastate the later Peas, particularly in dry summers, that the whole
crop is in some gardens completely annihilated. The name of the fungus
of the Pea Blight or Mildew is _Erysiphe Martii_. Its attack is often
made suddenly; the leaves then lose their natural green colour, and
become yellowish and densely coated with a fine white bloom; this bloom
becomes at length dusted over with innumerable minute black bodies,
which look, under a lens, like tiny spiders’-eggs in the web. These
little black bodies are filled with extremely small transparent
vessels, and each vessel contains from four to eight spores or seeds.
Our illustration shows this _Erysiphe_ enlarged one hundred diameters,
with two of the vessels containing the spores removed from the globular
spots and further enlarged. The only safe way of dealing with infested
Pea plants is to burn them. Many other species of fungi belonging to
the same genus attack fruit trees, vegetables, and garden flowers. It
is, however, unnecessary to illustrate them, as they more or less
resemble the fungus of Pea Blight. They all arise from an _Oïdium_
condition, similar to the _Oïdium_ or Mildew of the Vine, and it is in
this condition alone, as in the case of the Vine, that they can be
reached by any fungicide.
[Illustration: Fungus of Pea] FUNGUS OF PEA MILDEW
_Erysiphe Martii_
Tomato Diseases.—The Tomato, like its near relative, the Potato, is
subject to a number of destructive diseases which spread rapidly if
allowed to become established. The most serious of these epidemics are
found among crops cultivated under glass, where the forcing treatment
which they often receive, and the soil and atmospheric conditions,
render the plants abnormally susceptible to the attacks of fungi and
insect pests. Perhaps the most virulent forms of disease with which the
Tomato-grower is troubled arise from the attacks of parasitic fungi and
bacteria, among which the following are most frequently met with:—
SLEEPY DISEASE, or TOMATO WILT.—In its outward symptoms and effects
this disease somewhat resembles an attack of Root-knot Eelworm, but the
swellings are absent from the root. The plants for a time appear quite
vigorous and healthy, but when full-grown they suddenly wilt and die
within a few days. The malady is caused by the fungus _Fusarium
lycopersici_, which first invades the roots and ultimately eats its way
through the substance of the collar or stem near the surface of the
soil, in consequence of which the supply of water taken up by the roots
is cut off from the leaves above ground and the plant collapses. There
is no remedy for the Sleepy Disease of Tomato, and plants which bear
evidence of infection should be carefully dug up and burned.
TOMATO ‘STRIPE.’—This disease of the Tomato is comparatively common,
and although the attacks are sometimes slight its ravages may be
disastrous when conditions are favourable for its development. The
presence of Tomato Stripe is usually first noticed about the time fruit
is forming. The stems of the diseased plants then exhibit dark spots
and elongated sunken stripes of a brown tint, and yellow patches, which
turn brown later, appear on the leaves. Brown pits or depressions
develop on the fruits and spoil their appearance. The disease has been
traced to the action of a bacterium which closely resembles, or is
identical with, that causing Stripe among Sweet Peas. This organism
probably resides in the soil, and the signs of its attack are often
visible in young plants. In severe cases the soil of the house should
be removed and replaced with fresh loam. But when only slight traces of
the disease are apparent, partial sterilisation of the soil by means of
carbolic acid, as recommended for Root-knot Eelworm on page 425, may be
adopted. One of the surest means of guarding against losses by Stripe
disease, is to promote robust healthy growth, and to avoid extreme
forcing conditions, particularly by the excessive use of nitrogenous
manures. Where, however, forcing manures may have been employed in too
large a quantity, an application of potash (in the form of kainit or
sulphate of potash) and phosphatic fertilisers should be given to
counteract the effect of the nitrogen. Immediately any trace of the
disease is found, remove the affected part of the plant, if it is
possible to do so without serious injury, but otherwise the entire
plant should be uprooted and destroyed by fire. It should be remembered
that the organism can be carried on the fingers and on tools, and
therefore knives with which affected plants have been trimmed should be
sterilised with lysol or some other antiseptic solution before being
used on healthy plants.
TOMATO-LEAF RUST.—The leaves of the plant attacked by this disease
rapidly become covered with a dull brownish velvety mould, or fungus,
known as _Cladosporium fulvum_. From the mouldy spots and patches
thousands of spores are readily carried by a slight current of air to
the surrounding healthy crop, and unless prompt measures are taken to
check the pest the whole house is rapidly involved. Excessive
atmospheric moisture encourages the mould, and it is spread extensively
if diseased plants are sprayed with water in the presence of healthy
ones. Judicious management in air-giving, which is one of the
fundamental principles of successful Tomato culture, will do much to
prevent the attack of _Cladosporium fulvum_. Under regular examination
the presence of the disease will be revealed before considerable damage
can be inflicted, and when only a few leaves are affected, carefully
remove and consign them to the fire. Spraying with the Bordeaux mixture
at half the usual strength is recommended when the disease is first
noticed. When the plants are bearing flowers or fruit, fungicides
containing copper must not be used, but a solution of liver of sulphur,
one ounce dissolved in six gallons of water, employed instead.
ROOT-KNOT EELWORM.—A dangerous insect pest which frequently attacks the
Tomato, in common with the Cucumber and Melon, is the Root-knot Eelworm
(_Heterodera radicicola_). The root on which the swollen pea-like knots
develop do not carry on their ordinary functions, and the leaves droop,
the stem becomes limp, and the whole plant soon collapses and dies if
the trouble is severe. The treatment suggested on page 425 should be
adopted.
Sometimes the outdoor Tomato crop is attacked by _Phytophthora
infestans_, the fungus responsible for the Potato Disease: Bordeaux
mixture should be used to check it.
Directions for preparing the Bordeaux mixture are given on page 440.
Another useful preparation which checks many fungus diseases may be
made by dissolving one ounce of potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur)
in three or four gallons of water, to which should be added an ounce or
two of soft soap. The last named greatly assists in the complete and
uniform wetting of all parts of the foliage.
THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN FLOWERS
Cineraria and Senecio Disease.—_Senecio pulcher_, soon after its
introduction into England, was attacked, and in some gardens completely
destroyed, by a fungus named _Puccinia glomerata_, or rather the
_Uredo_ stage of this fungus with simple, not compound, spores. The
fungus is well known, being closely allied to that which causes the
rust or mildew of corn crops. It is very common on the wild species of
Groundsel in England, being especially frequent and virulent on the
Ragwort Groundsel, _Senecio Jacobea_, from August to October. The
leaves of infected plants are covered with rust-coloured dusty
pustules, the _Uredo_ condition of the fungus, and known in this stage
as _Uredo senecionis_, sometimes termed _Trichobasis senecionis_. The
fungus has a _Puccinia_ stage of growth very similar to that of the
Hollyhock fungus, _Puccinia malvacearum_.
[Illustration: Fungus of Senecio Disease] FUNGUS OF SENECIO DISEASE
_Uredo senecionis_
At A is illustrated a fragment of a leaf of _Senecio pulcher_, natural
size, and covered with the orange-coloured fungus; at B a small part of
a _Uredo_ pustule as seen bursting through the cuticle of the Senecio
leaf.
No remedial measures for the extirpation of this fungus are known, but
as garden Senecios and Cinerarias are infected by diseased plants of
Wild Groundsel, it is desirable that plants of the latter (especially
when diseased) should be destroyed. Weeds in and about gardens are a
common cause of disease in cultivated plants. It often happens that a
weed, being sturdy, is only slightly inconvenienced when attacked,
whilst a cultivated plant will speedily succumb if attacked by the same
fungus. This is the case in the _Sempervivum_ disease. In this country
the common House Leek is the nurse-plant, and is seldom much injured;
but if the disease _Endophyllum sempervivi_ gets among greenhouse
species, every plant may be utterly destroyed.
[Illustration: Fungi of Gladioli, Lilies, etc.] FUNGI OF GLADIOLI,
LILIES, ETC.
_Urocystis gladioli_ and _Ovularia elliptica_
Gladiolus, Crocus, Narcissus, and Lily Diseases.—In certain soils and
situations where the ground is heavy and the atmosphere inclined to be
humid the Gladiolus is very subject to a destructive fungoid disease.
This is especially the case during unusually wet summers. The disease
attacks the corm, and corrodes and decomposes the tissues, so that on
cutting open a corm the whole interior, or such parts as are diseased,
will be found permeated with a deep, foxy colour. It is believed by
some persons that one stage of this disease is identical with the
disease named ‘Tacon’ by the French, and in this country known as
‘Copper Web,’ _Rhizoctonia crocorum_. This _Rhizoctonia_ is a mere
spawn or mycelium, a mass of rusty-brown material like a thick coating
of spider’s web of a red tint. This parasite attacks the Crocus
(especially _C. sativus_), the Narcissus, Asparagus, Potato, and other
plants. Immersed in the softer and damper portions of the red substance
of the corm may frequently be found great numbers of large compound
spores, as illustrated at A (enlarged two hundred and fifty diameters).
These bodies belong to the fungus named _Urocystis gladioli_; but
whether they really belong to the spawn named _Rhizoctonia_ there is no
conclusive evidence, as the spores have never been seen on the threads
or upon any spawn. The spores are very ornamental objects, consisting
of from three to six compacted inner brown bodies, surrounded by an
indefinite number of transparent cells. At maturity these spores break
up as at B, and are the means of reproducing the fungus.
The Colchicum is attacked by a closely allied but different species of
_Urocystis_—viz. _U. colchici_. The Ranunculaceæ are attacked by
another ally in _U. pompholygodes_ and Rye is attacked by a third in
_U. occulta_. No method of cure has yet been published for this pest;
it is, however, desirable that only sound and good corms should be
planted, for if infected corms are placed in the ground it is one
certain means of propagating the disease. The bars shown across the
illustration of this disease are magnificent crystals, very common in
Gladiolus corms.
Lilies are very subject to a disease in early summer: the leaves get
spotted and damp, and rot off; the flower buds speedily follow, and
leave the bare stalk. The disease of Lilies is caused by a fungus
closely allied to the fungus of the Potato disease, and named _Ovularia
elliptica_, known also as _Botrytis elliptica_ (see illustration C).
The spores are large, and produce zoospores, or spores with hair-like
tails (cilia), capable of swimming about in water or upon moist places.
This pest attacks a large number of species of _Lilium_, both before
and after flowering. _Hyacinthus candicans_ and some Tulips suffer from
a very similar, if not the same, organism. This fungus has been
described as a true _Peronospora_. Bulbs are subject to many fungus
growths as _Volutella hyacinthorum_, _Didymium Sowerbei_, &c.; many
fungi follow the decay of the bulb, others undoubtedly produce or
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