THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
TEXT
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e, the pride of the Kitchen Garden. Blanching.—The grave question of white _versus_ green Asparagus we cannot entertain, except so far as concerns the cultivator only. On the point of
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ed seeds of certain Dwarf and Climbing Beans, notably those which are white. Almost any variety, however, may be used as _Haricots_, but the most popular are those which produce self-co
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is most acceptable. Dressed with vinegar and white pepper, it is at once appetising, nutritive, and digestible. Served as fritters, it is by some people preferr
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number by means of a given stock of frames. Sprouting Broccoli, both white and purple, are invaluable to supply a large bulk of a most acceptable vegetable in winter and early spring.
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or the general crop a second sowing may be made of the finest Red and White varieties, also on a mild hot-bed, in the second week of March, and have treatment similar to the first, but
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g until quite tender; they may then be pared, sliced, and served with white sauce, or left uncut to be sliced up for salads when cold. CHICORY Cichorium Intybus A valuable addition t
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-fruited kinds being especially serviceable for the table. The common white, which is best known, is fairly good when cooked young, though less rich in flavour than the purple. The cult
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ble to grow them in trenches, prepared as for Celery. The largest and whitest should not be left to battle with storms, but those left in the seed-bed will take no harm from winter weat
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rowth which at a hasty glance resembles mildew. It really consists of white gossamer-like films, which increase in number and distinctness as they develop, until they push their way tow
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ing gained by mixing them. The proper sort for salading is the common White Mustard, but Brown Mustard may be used for the purpose. Rape is employed for market work, but should be shunn
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on breaks down. Pickling Onions may be obtained by sowing any of the white or straw-coloured varieties that are grown for keeping, but the large sorts are quite unfit; the best are the
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nary way are of little use; the best are lines, to which at intervals white feathers, or strips of white paper, or pieces of bright tin are attached. In the seedling stage the plants ma
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ge on the east side of a row will suffice to tide through an ordinary white frost. Mats or reed hurdles laid on a few stout pegs will also answer admirably, but care must be taken that
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lemon juice or vinegar. They are boiled until tender, and served with white sauce. To prepare them as the ‘Vegetable Oyster’ the roots are first boiled and allowed to get cold, then cut
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ental borders, but it is not so suitable for culinary purposes as the white variety. The leaves only are eaten. STACHYS TUBERIFERA This vegetable is commonly known as the Chinese Arti
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d for early Radishes, and it may be well to add, that in an emergency white Turnip Radishes may be made to take the place of Turnips, both to flavour soups and to appear as a dish in th
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of immature Cabbages make a more delicate dish than the most complete white hearts; but when grown for market, or to meet a large demand, there must be bulk and substance. Cabbages are
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of the red-leaved kinds, for though less delicate than the green and white, they will be useful in the event of a scorching summer. Lettuces require a deep free soil with plenty of man
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Turnip to be sown for succession. It is well now to keep to the small white early sorts. Vegetable Marrow.—In cottage gardens luxuriant vines may every year be seen trailing over the s
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ip may be sown in the early part of the month. The best sorts now are White Gem, or Snowball. All the Year Round will please those who like a yellow Turnip. SEPTEMBER Weeds will be t
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ry bedders. We have had great and glorious sheets of Candytufts, snow-white, rich crimson, and bright carmine; and when they began to wane they were removed, and the ground planted with
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Gypsophila elegans_; Linaria; _Nemesia Suttoni_; Nicotiana, Miniature White and _N. affinis_; Phlox, Purity, one of the most lovely pot plants for the conservatory and of especial value
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arly effective show when grown in conjunction with Yellow Alyssum and White Arabis. Aubrietias are easily grown from seed sown in May and June. The plants are best raised in pans of lig
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he most delicate shades of pink, mauve, and blue, in addition to pure white. Seed may be sown from April to July. When the seedlings are large enough transplant them where required for
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have been added to it. The distinctive feature of the flowers is the white centre, which greatly enhances the vividness of the colouring of the petals. For the Intermediate section the
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wall is an admirable background for deep-coloured varieties, and the white or yellow flowers are displayed to advantage against a dark building. Dahlias may be used either alone or in
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ant too, the Nicotiana is exceedingly useful, the large sweet-scented white, soft pink, and rich red coloured flowers being very attractive. A group of plants placed in the porch will,
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the most valuable of all the varieties for blooming indoors. The pure white flowers, which are sweetly scented, may be produced at almost any period of the year. They are, perhaps, more
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aordinary combinations of colours which range from the palest sulphur-white to orange, scarlet, and purple-violet, all being more or less pencilled and veined with some strong contrasti
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side, and from its midrib scapes of elegant violet-blue flowers with white throat are thrown up to a height of eighteen inches. The seeds should be sown in a warm greenhouse early in t
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Nemophila insignis_, well known for its lovely blue blossoms, and the white variety, _alba_, of the same; _Saponaria calabrica,_ exquisite rosy pink; Silene, rose, dwarf rose, and dwarf
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ed in them should be of a suitable size. For quite small jardinières, white and purple Crocuses, Scillas, Snowdrops, and Grape Hyacinths are available, also the smaller varieties of Nar
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k; (3) bright pink and pale blue; (4) bright red, rich blue, and pure white; (5) rose-pink and rich blue; (6) pale yellow and rich blue; (7) deep mauve and pale mauve; (8) cream and pal
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wn with great care under glass, are really as hardy as the old common white Lily, and may be grown with it in the same border. To grow Lilies well requires a deep, moist, rich loam. A s
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their appearance. For the earliest display select the Roman and Paper White, which are naturally early-blooming varieties. After a few days in a cool pit, transfer to the greenhouse, an
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ave perished. ZEPHYRANTHES CANDIDA Flower of the West Wind A dwarf white Crocus-like flower, with foliage resembling the common Rush on a small scale. Plant in clumps from November t
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rden; and to add to its attractiveness there are now yellow, red, and white varieties, in addition to such forms as dwarf, pyramidal, and spiral. Mignonette can be grown without the lea
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eauty and diversity of its foliage alone. The flowers range from pure white through all shades of tender rose up to a deep, rich crimson. After years of earnest effort, two beautiful bl
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a; Gypsophila elegans; Linaria; Nemesia Suttoni; Nicotiana, Miniature White and N. affinis; Phlox, Purity; Salpiglossis; and Swan River Daisy. Asters for indoor decoration should now b
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k such as are intended to flower late. The Double Roman and the Paper White naturally come into bloom in advance of other sorts, and these should be selected for the earliest display. G
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here will be plenty of foliage to set off the long spikes of charming white bells. When planted in the open ground a shaded spot should be chosen, which must be freely enriched with lea
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hod of employing it. There should be enough put on to make the plants white, and they will be none the worse for the whitening. Dustings of fine ashes or soot are scarcely less effectiv
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t be considered. A fat bloater split down and well rubbed with common white arsenic will kill a score of Rats, provided only that they will eat it. Cut it into four parts, and place the
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the most destructive character. It covers Lettuce leaves with a fine white bloom, which decomposes the leaves, and makes them adhere together in one putrescent mass. It should be looke
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ts, notably the Mallows of our hedgesides. We have seen plants of the white variety of the Musk Mallow (_Malva moschata_) totally destroyed by this parasite. The home of the Hollyhock f
Spraying Potato plants twice or thrice with Bordeaux mixture has proved
effective in warding off the attack of _Phytophthora infestans_, and
the practice is now freely adopted, especially in humid districts. The
first application should be given towards the end of June or early in
July, immediately the haulm is sufficiently developed. The Bordeaux
mixture is made in the proportion of four pounds of pure copper
sulphate and two pounds of quicklime to forty gallons of water. The
foregoing quantities will give what is known as the _one per cent._
mixture. For the _two per cent._ mixture the quantities of copper
sulphate and quicklime must be doubled, but the amount of water should
remain at forty gallons. In its effect on the fungus, however, little
difference is to be found between the two solutions. The copper
sulphate is stirred into a few gallons of hot water placed in a wooden
tub or earthenware vessel. When quite dissolved, add twenty or thirty
gallons of cold water. The lime, which must be freshly burnt quicklime,
is then slaked in another vessel and thoroughly stirred with two or
three gallons of water until it is of the consistency of thin cream. As
soon as the liquid is quite cold, filter it through coarse sacking into
the copper sulphate solution and add water to make a total of forty
gallons. To be effective, Bordeaux mixture must be applied in the form
of a fine spray, and not with a coarse-holed syringe.
The Burgundy mixture, the use of which is preferred by some, acts in a
very similar manner to the Bordeaux mixture, and is made in the same
way as the latter, except that washing soda (five pounds) is
substituted for quicklime.
Those who leave Potatoes to rot in the ground because the crop is not
worth digging, or who bury diseased haulm and tubers in a shallow
trench, under the impression that it is a safe way of getting rid of
worthless vegetation, are simply storing _Phytophthora_ for another
attack in the event of Potatoes being planted in the same land again.
If buried at all, it must be at a considerable depth, but the effectual
method is to destroy all Potato refuse by fire.
Wart Disease (Black Scab) of Potatoes (_Synchytrium endobioticum_,
Percival).—This extremely infectious and destructive disease of the
Potato has been given a variety of names in different parts of the
country, but it is now generally known as the Wart or Cauliflower
Disease, the latter term being attributable to the Cauliflower-like
appearance of the outgrowth of the fungus. This outgrowth first shows
in the eyes of the young Potato in the form of small wrinkled warts.
These multiply and combine, thus creating a dark spongy scab which
eventually decomposes. Where the disease is very rife it attacks haulm
as well as tubers, and a yellowish-green mass may sometimes be found
just above or just below the surface of the soil. As a rule, however,
no outward indication of its existence is to be seen in the crop during
the early stages of growth, but towards the end of the season the haulm
of badly diseased plants often retains a fresh green appearance when
the foliage of others, which are healthy or only slightly attacked, is
dying off.
Infection is perhaps most commonly spread by the planting of diseased
tubers. Another frequent means of dissemination is caused by consigning
infected haulm to the waste heap instead of to the fire. The spores may
also be introduced in manure from animals fed on diseased Potatoes in a
raw state, and they may even be carried from one plot to another on
garden implements or the boots of those who walk across infected
ground. Immediately any sign of the disease is observed it should be
dealt with promptly and in no uncertain manner. Every particle of the
infected material must be carefully collected and burned. Dig out the
soil around all diseased plants and burn this also. On infected land it
is important that some crop other than Potatoes be taken in the season
following the outbreak, and, if possible, such land should not be used
for Potatoes for at least five or six years. But where garden space is
limited, a contaminated plot may have to be requisitioned for Potatoes
within two or three years. In such cases it is an excellent plan to
dust the sets freely with sulphur at the time of planting and to repeat
the application before earthing up.
Although for some years the unremitting labour of experts has been
devoted to the investigation of Wart Disease, and innumerable
experiments have been undertaken, no effectual remedy has yet been
discovered. It has been found, however, that certain Potatoes are
resistant to the disease, and by order of the Ministry of Agriculture
and Fisheries none but ‘immune’ varieties may be planted in districts
scheduled as infected areas. A notification of the existence of Wart
Disease must be made to the Ministry immediately it is observed.
Leaf Spot of Celery.—This disease, which is caused by a minute fungus
(_Septoria apii_, Chester), is capable of inflicting serious damage to
the Celery crop unless prompt measures are taken to exterminate it. The
first sign of its appearance is to be found in the leaves in the form
of small brown patches. These are, however, quite distinct from the
spots deficient of leaf-green due to the attack of the Celery Fly
larvæ, and on close examination may be recognised by the presence of a
number of very small black points. From the leaves the fungus quickly
spreads over the leaf-stalks and finally to the heart of the plant,
ending in its total collapse. So rapid is the multiplication of the
spores, especially in moist weather, that a few diseased plants are
capable of infecting a large plot within two or three weeks.
Immediately discoloration of a leaf is noticed the affected portion of
the plant should be picked off. If the stage of the disease is so far
advanced that the outer leaf-stalks have become decayed, the entire
plant should be removed and destroyed. It is of the utmost importance
that every particle of diseased material be consigned to the fire and
not to the waste heap. Spraying three or four times with Bordeaux
mixture at intervals of two or three weeks may be helpful in the case
of a light attack, but the safest course always is to remove and
destroy any plant on which the fungus is found. One of the most
frequent means of introducing Leaf Spot of Celery is through the use of
infected seed, and therefore only seed which has been treated for the
destruction of the fungus should be sown.
Lettuce Mildew.—This fungus is named _Bremia lactucæ_, formerly known
as _Peronospora ganglioniformis_, and is sometimes of the most
destructive character. It covers Lettuce leaves with a fine white
bloom, which decomposes the leaves, and makes them adhere together in
one putrescent mass. It should be looked for in its earliest stages,
and be hand-picked and burned. Old Lettuce stumps should likewise be
pulled and burned, otherwise they may harbour the disease.
Onion Mildew is caused by the fungus _Peronospora Schleideni_, which is
occasionally disastrous in its effects, more especially in cold, wet
seasons. It occurs at uncertain intervals of time with extraordinary
virulence, and then utterly destroys the crops. Autumn sowing is
considered a good preventive by many growers, as the disease is
frequently fatal to spring seedlings. In its early stages the mildew
may be successfully dealt with by freely dusting the plants with
flowers of sulphur when wet with dew, or by the application of sulphide
of potassium in the proportion of one ounce to a gallon of water.
Otherwise all diseased material should be removed and burned.
Pea Disease.—Although garden Peas often suffer badly from the attacks
of _Peronospora viciæ_, which is the cause of Pea Mould, yet the most
deadly foe to Peas, especially late Peas, is a fungus of a totally
different character. To such an extent does the Pea Blight sometimes
devastate the later Peas, particularly in dry summers, that the whole
crop is in some gardens completely annihilated. The name of the fungus
of the Pea Blight or Mildew is _Erysiphe Martii_. Its attack is often
made suddenly; the leaves then lose their natural green colour, and
become yellowish and densely coated with a fine white bloom; this bloom
becomes at length dusted over with innumerable minute black bodies,
which look, under a lens, like tiny spiders’-eggs in the web. These
little black bodies are filled with extremely small transparent
vessels, and each vessel contains from four to eight spores or seeds.
Our illustration shows this _Erysiphe_ enlarged one hundred diameters,
with two of the vessels containing the spores removed from the globular
spots and further enlarged. The only safe way of dealing with infested
Pea plants is to burn them. Many other species of fungi belonging to
the same genus attack fruit trees, vegetables, and garden flowers. It
is, however, unnecessary to illustrate them, as they more or less
resemble the fungus of Pea Blight. They all arise from an _Oïdium_
condition, similar to the _Oïdium_ or Mildew of the Vine, and it is in
this condition alone, as in the case of the Vine, that they can be
reached by any fungicide.
[Illustration: Fungus of Pea] FUNGUS OF PEA MILDEW
_Erysiphe Martii_
Tomato Diseases.—The Tomato, like its near relative, the Potato, is
subject to a number of destructive diseases which spread rapidly if
allowed to become established. The most serious of these epidemics are
found among crops cultivated under glass, where the forcing treatment
which they often receive, and the soil and atmospheric conditions,
render the plants abnormally susceptible to the attacks of fungi and
insect pests. Perhaps the most virulent forms of disease with which the
Tomato-grower is troubled arise from the attacks of parasitic fungi and
bacteria, among which the following are most frequently met with:—
SLEEPY DISEASE, or TOMATO WILT.—In its outward symptoms and effects
this disease somewhat resembles an attack of Root-knot Eelworm, but the
swellings are absent from the root. The plants for a time appear quite
vigorous and healthy, but when full-grown they suddenly wilt and die
within a few days. The malady is caused by the fungus _Fusarium
lycopersici_, which first invades the roots and ultimately eats its way
through the substance of the collar or stem near the surface of the
soil, in consequence of which the supply of water taken up by the roots
is cut off from the leaves above ground and the plant collapses. There
is no remedy for the Sleepy Disease of Tomato, and plants which bear
evidence of infection should be carefully dug up and burned.
TOMATO ‘STRIPE.’—This disease of the Tomato is comparatively common,
and although the attacks are sometimes slight its ravages may be
disastrous when conditions are favourable for its development. The
presence of Tomato Stripe is usually first noticed about the time fruit
is forming. The stems of the diseased plants then exhibit dark spots
and elongated sunken stripes of a brown tint, and yellow patches, which
turn brown later, appear on the leaves. Brown pits or depressions
develop on the fruits and spoil their appearance. The disease has been
traced to the action of a bacterium which closely resembles, or is
identical with, that causing Stripe among Sweet Peas. This organism
probably resides in the soil, and the signs of its attack are often
visible in young plants. In severe cases the soil of the house should
be removed and replaced with fresh loam. But when only slight traces of
the disease are apparent, partial sterilisation of the soil by means of
carbolic acid, as recommended for Root-knot Eelworm on page 425, may be
adopted. One of the surest means of guarding against losses by Stripe
disease, is to promote robust healthy growth, and to avoid extreme
forcing conditions, particularly by the excessive use of nitrogenous
manures. Where, however, forcing manures may have been employed in too
large a quantity, an application of potash (in the form of kainit or
sulphate of potash) and phosphatic fertilisers should be given to
counteract the effect of the nitrogen. Immediately any trace of the
disease is found, remove the affected part of the plant, if it is
possible to do so without serious injury, but otherwise the entire
plant should be uprooted and destroyed by fire. It should be remembered
that the organism can be carried on the fingers and on tools, and
therefore knives with which affected plants have been trimmed should be
sterilised with lysol or some other antiseptic solution before being
used on healthy plants.
TOMATO-LEAF RUST.—The leaves of the plant attacked by this disease
rapidly become covered with a dull brownish velvety mould, or fungus,
known as _Cladosporium fulvum_. From the mouldy spots and patches
thousands of spores are readily carried by a slight current of air to
the surrounding healthy crop, and unless prompt measures are taken to
check the pest the whole house is rapidly involved. Excessive
atmospheric moisture encourages the mould, and it is spread extensively
if diseased plants are sprayed with water in the presence of healthy
ones. Judicious management in air-giving, which is one of the
fundamental principles of successful Tomato culture, will do much to
prevent the attack of _Cladosporium fulvum_. Under regular examination
the presence of the disease will be revealed before considerable damage
can be inflicted, and when only a few leaves are affected, carefully
remove and consign them to the fire. Spraying with the Bordeaux mixture
at half the usual strength is recommended when the disease is first
noticed. When the plants are bearing flowers or fruit, fungicides
containing copper must not be used, but a solution of liver of sulphur,
one ounce dissolved in six gallons of water, employed instead.
ROOT-KNOT EELWORM.—A dangerous insect pest which frequently attacks the
Tomato, in common with the Cucumber and Melon, is the Root-knot Eelworm
(_Heterodera radicicola_). The root on which the swollen pea-like knots
develop do not carry on their ordinary functions, and the leaves droop,
the stem becomes limp, and the whole plant soon collapses and dies if
the trouble is severe. The treatment suggested on page 425 should be
adopted.
Sometimes the outdoor Tomato crop is attacked by _Phytophthora
infestans_, the fungus responsible for the Potato Disease: Bordeaux
mixture should be used to check it.
Directions for preparing the Bordeaux mixture are given on page 440.
Another useful preparation which checks many fungus diseases may be
made by dissolving one ounce of potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur)
in three or four gallons of water, to which should be added an ounce or
two of soft soap. The last named greatly assists in the complete and
uniform wetting of all parts of the foliage.
THE FUNGUS PESTS OF CERTAIN FLOWERS
Cineraria and Senecio Disease.—_Senecio pulcher_, soon after its
introduction into England, was attacked, and in some gardens completely
destroyed, by a fungus named _Puccinia glomerata_, or rather the
_Uredo_ stage of this fungus with simple, not compound, spores. The
fungus is well known, being closely allied to that which causes the
rust or mildew of corn crops. It is very common on the wild species of
Groundsel in England, being especially frequent and virulent on the
Ragwort Groundsel, _Senecio Jacobea_, from August to October. The
leaves of infected plants are covered with rust-coloured dusty
pustules, the _Uredo_ condition of the fungus, and known in this stage
as _Uredo senecionis_, sometimes termed _Trichobasis senecionis_. The
fungus has a _Puccinia_ stage of growth very similar to that of the
Hollyhock fungus, _Puccinia malvacearum_.
[Illustration: Fungus of Senecio Disease] FUNGUS OF SENECIO DISEASE
_Uredo senecionis_
At A is illustrated a fragment of a leaf of _Senecio pulcher_, natural
size, and covered with the orange-coloured fungus; at B a small part of
a _Uredo_ pustule as seen bursting through the cuticle of the Senecio
leaf.
No remedial measures for the extirpation of this fungus are known, but
as garden Senecios and Cinerarias are infected by diseased plants of
Wild Groundsel, it is desirable that plants of the latter (especially
when diseased) should be destroyed. Weeds in and about gardens are a
common cause of disease in cultivated plants. It often happens that a
weed, being sturdy, is only slightly inconvenienced when attacked,
whilst a cultivated plant will speedily succumb if attacked by the same
fungus. This is the case in the _Sempervivum_ disease. In this country
the common House Leek is the nurse-plant, and is seldom much injured;
but if the disease _Endophyllum sempervivi_ gets among greenhouse
species, every plant may be utterly destroyed.
[Illustration: Fungi of Gladioli, Lilies, etc.] FUNGI OF GLADIOLI,
LILIES, ETC.
_Urocystis gladioli_ and _Ovularia elliptica_
Gladiolus, Crocus, Narcissus, and Lily Diseases.—In certain soils and
situations where the ground is heavy and the atmosphere inclined to be
humid the Gladiolus is very subject to a destructive fungoid disease.
This is especially the case during unusually wet summers. The disease
attacks the corm, and corrodes and decomposes the tissues, so that on
cutting open a corm the whole interior, or such parts as are diseased,
will be found permeated with a deep, foxy colour. It is believed by
some persons that one stage of this disease is identical with the
disease named ‘Tacon’ by the French, and in this country known as
‘Copper Web,’ _Rhizoctonia crocorum_. This _Rhizoctonia_ is a mere
spawn or mycelium, a mass of rusty-brown material like a thick coating
of spider’s web of a red tint. This parasite attacks the Crocus
(especially _C. sativus_), the Narcissus, Asparagus, Potato, and other
plants. Immersed in the softer and damper portions of the red substance
of the corm may frequently be found great numbers of large compound
spores, as illustrated at A (enlarged two hundred and fifty diameters).
These bodies belong to the fungus named _Urocystis gladioli_; but
whether they really belong to the spawn named _Rhizoctonia_ there is no
conclusive evidence, as the spores have never been seen on the threads
or upon any spawn. The spores are very ornamental objects, consisting
of from three to six compacted inner brown bodies, surrounded by an
indefinite number of transparent cells. At maturity these spores break
up as at B, and are the means of reproducing the fungus.
The Colchicum is attacked by a closely allied but different species of
_Urocystis_—viz. _U. colchici_. The Ranunculaceæ are attacked by
another ally in _U. pompholygodes_ and Rye is attacked by a third in
_U. occulta_. No method of cure has yet been published for this pest;
it is, however, desirable that only sound and good corms should be
planted, for if infected corms are placed in the ground it is one
certain means of propagating the disease. The bars shown across the
illustration of this disease are magnificent crystals, very common in
Gladiolus corms.
Lilies are very subject to a disease in early summer: the leaves get
spotted and damp, and rot off; the flower buds speedily follow, and
leave the bare stalk. The disease of Lilies is caused by a fungus
closely allied to the fungus of the Potato disease, and named _Ovularia
elliptica_, known also as _Botrytis elliptica_ (see illustration C).
The spores are large, and produce zoospores, or spores with hair-like
tails (cilia), capable of swimming about in water or upon moist places.
This pest attacks a large number of species of _Lilium_, both before
and after flowering. _Hyacinthus candicans_ and some Tulips suffer from
a very similar, if not the same, organism. This fungus has been
described as a true _Peronospora_. Bulbs are subject to many fungus
growths as _Volutella hyacinthorum_, _Didymium Sowerbei_, &c.; many
fungi follow the decay of the bulb, others undoubtedly produce or
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