to be chosen, bruised, and in that Condition suffered to remain some
Days to ferment. The Juice is then to be strained off, the Quantity
of Sugar and Brandy added, and the whole put into a Cask and close
stopped. A Lee or Sediment will fall to the Bottom of the Cask, which
Sediment will be of great Use in preserving the Ratafia.
The Proportion of black Cherries must be large in this Ratafia, because
the Colour, which this is greatly valued for, chiefly comes from the
Juice of that Fruit.
The Sugar must not be put in at once, because the Acidness of the
Liquor would cause a considerable Effervescence, but by a little at a
time.
These Instructions being observed, a Ratafia of this Kind may be easily
made: And as the Spirit is not to be mixed with it, till the Ratafia
is called for, a large Quantity of it may be made at a small Expence,
when the Fruits are in Perfection, which cannot be done by the common
Methods.
_Recipe for making mixed Ratafia._
Take of common Cherries, thoroughly ripe, four Hundred and fifty
Pounds; Gooseberries, large and ripe, two Hundred and twenty-five
Pounds; black Cherries ripe and large, fifty Pounds. Bruise these
Fruits, and in that Condition let them continue three or four Days to
ferment. Then press out the Juice, and add one fifth Part of Spirit;
that is, if you have two Hundred and fifty Pints of Juice you must add
to it fifty Pints of Spirit. When your Spirit and Juice are mixed put
them into a Cask, and for every Pint add three Ounces of Sugar. By this
means your Ratafia will be always ready to mix with Spirit.
But as the Proportion of Spirit is but small, it will be necessary to
taste your Ratafia at least every Month, lest it should ferment, and
by that means lose both its Flavour and Colour. As soon therefore as
you perceive the least Alteration in your Ratafia, more Spirit must be
added to stop the Fermentation; and by this Method it may be kept the
whole Year.
If you have any Ratafia remaining at the End of the Year, you must mix
it with that just made, adding a large Proportion of black Cherries;
because the Colour in the old Ratafia will not be equal to that of
the new. Or you may add to your old Ratafia a proper Quantity of the
fresh Juice of black Cherries, which will restore its Colour, and, in
a great Measure its Flavour too: So that if your Ratafia has been well
preserved, it will, when mixed with fresh Juice of black Cherries, be
but little inferior to the new.
4. _Of white Ratafia._
As red Fruits are the Basis of that called red Ratafia, so, on the
contrary, that made from the Juices of white Fruits is denominated
white Ratafia.
There are various Kinds of Ratafia made from various Fruits; but I
shall only give Recipes for making three or four Sorts, which will be
sufficient for all the rest, as the Method is nearly the same in all.
_Recipe for making Ratafia from the Muscat, or white Frontiniac Grape._
The Berries of this Kind of Grape are large, and grow extremely
close upon the Bunches, which are very long, and have commonly two
Shoulders: The Fruit, when ripe, has a rich musky Flavour; but it is
commonly very late in Autumn, before these Grapes are in Perfection;
and the Berries being so very close upon the Bunches, detain the
Moisture in the Centre; so that they often perish: To prevent which
some curious Persons look over their Vines, soon after the Grapes are
formed, and, with a Pair of Scissars, cut out all small ones, so as
to leave the others at a moderate Distance, whereby the Sun and Air
are easily admitted, which dissipates the Moisture, and prevents their
perishing. There is another Kind of this Grape, called by some the
white Frontiniac of _Alexandria_, and by others the _Jerusalem_ Muscat,
which is a very large Grape, and, when ripe, an excellent Fruit; but
is rarely brought to Perfection in _England_. The Berries of the
_Jerusalem_ Muscat, are of an oval Shape, and very large. They grow
very loose on the Bunches, are very fleshy and firm, and, when ripe,
are of greenish white, and a delicate Flavour.
Either of these Kinds of Grapes will make very fine Ratafia; but which
ever of them are chosen, they must be picked from the Stalks, and only
the finest Berries made use of. The Stones must also be picked out; for
if they are bruised with the Berries, the fine Flavour of the Juice
will be greatly diminished.
When you have picked the Grapes from the Stalks, and taken out the
Stones, press out the Juice, and filtrate it through a Flannel Bag.
Then add the Quantity of Sugar and Spirit, and flavour it to your mind
with a Spirit distilled from Spices, in the manner explained below.
The general Proportion of Sugar and Spirit, is, to twenty Pints of the
Juice, five Pounds and a Half of Sugar, ten Pints of Spirit, and what
Quantity you please of the spicy Spirit.
To make the spicy Spirit, take of Mace one Pound, Nutmegs four Ounces,
Spirit three Gallons, and draw off the whole in Balneum Mariæ.
By the same Method you may make red Ratafia from the red Frontiniac;
except that the Grapes, when bruised, must be suffered to ferment three
or four Days, before the Juice is pressed out; because the Colour,
which resides principally in the Skins of the Grapes, will, by that
means, be extracted.
The Berries of the red Muscat, or red Frontiniac, are about the Size of
those of the white; but grow much thinner on the Bunches. This Grape,
when thoroughly ripe, has the richest and highest Flavour of any
yet known; but it must have a dry Soil and a South Aspect, otherwise
it seldom ripens well in _England_. Besides the above Grape, there
is another called by some red Muscat of _Alexandria_, and by others
red _Jerusalem_ Muscat. This is not quite so late in ripening as the
white Muscat of _Alexandria_ above described; and for that reason more
esteemed. The Berries of this Kind are not quite so large as those of
the white, but of the same Form, and equal in Goodness.
5. _Of Ratafia from Peaches._
The Ratafia made from the Peach is the finest and richest Flavour of
any made from stoned Fruits. It is however necessary to gather the
Peach when thoroughly ripe, but, at the same time not to suffer it to
hang too long on the Tree: For as, on the one hand, it will not acquire
its delicious Flavour and Smell till thoroughly ripe, so, on the
other, it will lose both if suffered to hang on the Tree, after it has
attained to a full Maturity. Another necessary Caution is, to gather it
in fine warm Weather, and near the Middle of the Day; because then both
the Flavour and Smell are in the greatest Perfection.
It is also requisite to make Choice of the proper Sorts of Peaches;
for there is a remarkable Difference in the Flavour of these Fruits.
Gardeners reckon above thirty Sorts of Peaches, but not more than half
that number are proper for making Ratafia. I shall therefore give
a short Description of those that are most proper, that the young
Distiller may not be disappointed in making Ratafia from Peaches.
1. The early Purple (called by the _French_ _La Pourprée hâtive_.) This
Tree hath smooth Leaves: The Flowers large, and open: The Fruit is
large, round, and of a fine red Colour: The Flesh is white, but very
red at the Stone; very full of Juice, which has a rich vinous Flavour.
This Peach is ripe about the Middle of _August_.
2. The large, or _French_ Mignon. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth,
and the Flowers large and open. The Fruit is a little oblong, generally
swelling out on one Side, and of a fine Colour. The Juice is very
sweet, and of a high Flavour; the Flesh white, but very red at the
Stone, which is small, and easily separates from the Flesh. This Peach
is ripe in the middle of _August_.
3. The Chevreuse; or, belle Chevreuse. This Tree hath smooth Leaves,
and its Flowers are small and contracted. The Fruit is of a middling
Size, a little oblong, and of an elegant Colour. The Flesh is white,
but very red at the Stone, from which it separates; full of a rich
sugary Juice, and ripens towards the latter End of _August_.
4. The red Magdalen, called by the _French_ about _Paris_, _Magdeleine
de Courson_. The Leaves of this Tree are deeply sawed, and the Flowers
large and open. The Fruit is large, round, and of a fine red Colour.
The Flesh is white, but very red at the Stone, from which it separates.
The Juice is very sugary, and of a rich Flavour. It is ripe the latter
End of _August_.
5. _Smith_’s _Newington_. This Tree hath sawed Leaves, and large open
Flowers. The Fruit is of a middling Size, and of a fine red, next the
Sun. The Flesh is very firm and white, but very red at the Stone, to
which it closely adheres. It has a rich sugary Juice, and is ripe the
latter End of _August_.
6. The Chancellor. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth, and the Flowers
small and contracted. The Fruit is shaped somewhat like the Belle
Chevreuse, but rounder. The Flesh is white and melting, and separates
from the Stone, where it is of a fine red Colour. The Skin is very
thin, and the Juice remarkably rich. It ripens about the End of
_August_.
7. The Bellegarde; or, as the _French_ call it, the _Gallande_. This
Tree hath narrow Leaves, and small contracted Flowers. The Fruit is
very large and round, and of a deep purple Colour, on the Side exposed
to the Sun. The Flesh is white, melting, and separates from the Stone,
where it is of a deep red Colour. The Juice is very rich. This Peach is
ripe about the beginning of _September_.
8. The Bourdine. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth, and the Flowers
small and contracted. The Fruit is large, round, and of a fine red
Colour next the Sun. The Flesh is white, melting, and separates from
the Stone, where it is of a fine red Colour. The Juice is vinous and
rich. It is ripe the beginning of _September_, and greatly esteemed by
the curious.
9. The Lisle; or, as the _French_ call it, _la petite Violette Hâtive_.
This Tree hath smooth Leaves, and small contracted Flowers. The Fruit
is of a middle Size, and next the Sun of a fine violet Colour. The
Flesh is of a pale yellow, melting, full of a rich vinous Juice; but
adheres to the Stone, where it is very red. This Fruit is ripe the
Beginning of _September_.
10. The old _Newington_. The Leaves of this Tree are sawed, and the
Flowers large and open. The Fruit is fair, large, and of a beautiful
red Colour next the Sun. The Flesh is white, melting, and closely
adheres to the Stone, where it is of a deep red Colour. The Juice is
very rich and vinous. It is ripe about the Middle of _September_.
11. The Rambouillet, commonly called the Rambullion. This Tree has
smooth Leaves, and large open Flowers. The Fruit is of a middling Size,
rather round than long, deeply divided by a Furrow in the Middle; of
a fine red Colour next the Sun, but of a light Yellow next the Wall.
The Flesh is melting, of a bright yellow Colour, except near the
Stone, from which it separates, where it is of a deep red. The Juice
is rich and of a vinous Flavour. This Fruit ripens about the Middle of
_September_.
12. The Pourprée; or, as the _French_ generally call it _Pourprée
tardive_, the late Purple. The Leaves of this Tree are very large, and
sawed, the Shoots strong, and the Flowers small and contracted. The
Flesh, except near the Stone, from which it separates, and where it is
red, is white, melting, and of a rich sugary Juice. It is not ripe till
near the End of _September_.
13. The Nevette. The Leaves of this Tree are sawed, and the Flowers
small and contracted. The Fruit is large, somewhat longer than round,
of a bright red Colour next the Sun, and of a pale yellow on the other.
The Flesh is melting, full of a rich Juice, and very red at the Stone,
from which it separates. It ripens about the Middle of _September_, and
is esteemed one of the best Peaches.
14. The Royal. This Tree hath smooth Leaves, and small contracted
Flowers. The Fruit is large, round, and of a deep red on the Side
exposed to the Sun, but of a pale yellow on the other. The Flesh is
white, melting, and full of a rich Juice, of a white Colour, except
near the Stone from which it separates, where it is of a deep red. This
Fruit is ripe about the Middle of _September_.
15. The monstrous Pavy of Pomponne. The Leaves of this Tree are smooth;
the Flowers large and open. The Fruit is very large and round, many
times fourteen Inches in Circumference. The Flesh is white, melting,
and closely adheres to the Stone, where it is of a deep red Colour. The
Side next the Sun is a beautiful red, and the other of a pale flesh
Colour. It ripens about the End of _October_, and when the Autumn is
warm, is an excellent Peach.
The above Description of the different Kinds of Peaches proper for
making Ratafia, will be of use to the young Artist, as the fine Flavour
of this Liquor in a great Measure depends on a proper Choice of the
Fruits used in the Composition; and if the Instructions relating to the
Perfections and Ripeness of these Fruits are observed, an excellent
Cordial may be easily made in the following manner.
Take your Peaches, bruise them, and instantly strain out their Juice
thro’ a Piece of strong Linen. In this Juice, without any Mixture of
Water, dissolve your Sugar. And when the Sugar is melted, add the
Quantity of Spirit. No Spices must be used in this Ratafia, the fine
Flavour of the Peach being far preferable to all Spices in the World.
The Quantity of either the Sugar or Spirit may be augmented or lessened
according to your own Judgment, or in Proportion to the Price of your
Ratafia.
As soon as the Spirit is added to the dulcified Juice of the Peaches,
the whole must be filtrated thro’ a Flannel Bag, put into Bottles
close stopped; for the fine Flavour of the Peach will soon be lost
unless the Bottles are very well corked. Some also cover the Cork with
Sealing-wax, which is not a bad Caution.
If you would have your Ratafia of a bright red Colour, your must let
your bruised Peaches ferment a Day or two; by which means the Colour of
the Skin, and that of the Flesh near the Stone, will be extracted, and
give your Ratafia the Colour desired.
4. _Of Orange-flower Ratafia._
The Orange-flower has been already described, Page 127. I shall
therefore only add, that the Orange-flowers used in making Ratafia
should be large, in their full Perfection, gathered before the Rising
of the Sun, and carefully picked from their Stalks, _&c._ Some blanch
the Orange-flowers, by putting them into a small Quantity of Water,
and boiling them a few Minutes over the Fire. But by this Method the
most volatile Parts of the Flower are evaporated, by which the Ratafia
will lose much of its delicate Flavour.
The best way therefore is to use the Orange-flowers without any
previous Boiling.
_Recipe for making ten Gallons of Orange-flower Ratafia._
Take of Orange-flowers fresh gathered, and clean picked from their
Stalks, _&c._ five Pounds, and infuse them six Days in five Gallons of
clean Proof Spirit. Dissolve fourteen Pounds of Sugar in five Gallons
of Water; and after straining the Spirit from the Flowers, mix it with
the Syrup, and filtrate the whole thro’ a Flannel Bag.
Some instead of common Water use the Orange-flower Water; but it will
be necessary in pursuing that Method to take care that the Water be
fresh made, and very fragrant; for otherwise instead of improving, you
will greatly injure the fine Flavour of your Ratafia.
The foreign Distillers keep two Sorts of Orange-flower Ratafia,
one they call _single_ and the other _double_. The former is made
according to the above Recipe; but in making the latter they use double
the Quantity of Orange-flowers, and considerably augment the Proportion
of Sugar. It will be needless to give a Recipe for making that Sort of
Ratafia, which they call _double_, as the Process is exactly the same.
5. _Ratafia of_ Portugal _Orange_.
Ratafia may be made from any Sort of Orange; but that of the _Portugal_
Orange is reckoned the best.
The Oranges must be chosen fair, large, and ripe; and the outer or
yellow Peel be carefully taken off. The Juice of the Oranges must be
then pressed out, dulcified with Sugar, and mixed with the Spirit:
after which the outer Rinds are to be added, and after a proper
Infusion, the whole filtrated through a Flannel Bag.
_Recipe for making three Gallons of_ Portugal _Orange Ratafia_.
Take of the Juice of _Portugal_ Oranges two Gallons; clean rectified
Spirit one Gallon; four Pounds of Sugar; and the outer Peel of ten
Oranges. Let the whole infuse a Fortnight, and then filter the Liquor
through a Flannel Bag.
Some instead of infusing the Peel as directed in the above Recipe, put
the Peel into the Spirit, and distil it in Balneum Mariæ; after which
they add the Spirit to the dulcified Orange-juice, and filtrate as
before.
The foregoing Recipes for making Ratafia from different Fruits, _&c._
will be sufficient to instruct the young Distiller in the Method
necessary to be pursued for making Cordials of this Kind; for it would
be tedious to give Formula’s for making all the Kinds of Ratafia kept
by different Distillers. The Method in all is nearly the same; and
the Proportion of Sugar and Spirit may be easily discovered by a few
Experiments. I shall therefore conclude this Chapter with giving a
Recipe for making what is called by our _English_ Distillers Ratafia,
tho’ a very bad Composition.
_Recipe for making ten Gallons of common Ratafia._
Take of Nutmegs eight Ounces; bitter Almonds ten Pounds; _Lisbon_ Sugar
eight Pounds; Ambergrise ten Grains: Infuse these Ingredients three
Days in ten Gallons of clean Proof Spirit, and filter thro’ a Flannel
Bag for use.
The Nutmegs and bitter Almonds must be bruised; and the Ambergrise
rubbed with the _Lisbon_ Sugar in a Marble Mortar, before they are
infused in the Spirit.
CHAP. LIII.
_Of Gold Cordial._
This Cordial has its Name from Leaf Gold being formerly used in its
Composition; but as later Experiments have abundantly demonstrated that
Gold can add nothing to its Virtues, it is now generally omitted.
_Recipe for making ten Gallons of Gold Cordial._
Take of the Roots of Angelica, four Pounds; Raisins stoned, two Pounds;
Coriander-seeds, Half a Pound; Caraway-seeds and Cinnamon, of each
Half a Pound; Cloves two Ounces; Figs and Liquorice-root, of each one
Pound; Proof Spirit eleven Gallons; Water two Gallons: The Angelica,
Liquorice, and Figs must be sliced, before they are added. Digest two
Days, and draw off by gentle Heat, till the Faints begin to rise,
hanging in a Piece of Linen fastened to the Mouth of the Worm an
Ounce of _English_ Saffron. Then dissolve eight Pounds of Sugar in
three Quarts of Rose Water, and add it to the distilled Liquor. Some
Distillers instead of Saffron colour their Goods with burnt Sugar, but
by this means the Cordial is greatly impaired in its Virtues.
Or,
Take of the Juice of Alchermes five Ounces; Cloves two Ounces and a
Half; Musk and Ambergrise, of each Half a Dram; Loaf Sugar ten Pounds;
Proof Spirit eleven Gallons; digest the whole a Fortnight in a close
Vessel, and filter thro’ a Flannel Bag for use. Some add thirty Leaves
of Gold; but the Medicine is not at all the better for it.
Either of the above Recipes will produce an excellent Cordial; good in
Tremblings, Faintings, and Lowness of Spirits, _&c_. Also in Nauseas
and Griping Pains of the Stomach and Bowels.
CHAP. LIV.
_Of Cardamum, or All-fours._
This Water has its Name from the four Ingredients in its Composition;
and in some Countries is greatly used by the poorer Sort of People.
_Recipe for making ten Gallons of Cardamum._
Take of Pimento, Caraway and Coriander-seeds, and Lemon-peel, of each
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