THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
TEXT
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ear the garden presents new features of interest. In considering the general order of work in the Kitchen Garden, the first principle is that its productive powers shall be taxed to the
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wasteful tax on the energy of the plant. For home consumption it will generally suffice if the white portion is about four inches long, and this determines the depth at which the sticks s
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k of failure, especially on hot soils. A strong soil is suitable, and generally speaking a heavy crop of Beans may be taken from a well-managed clay. But any deep cool soil will answer, a
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ed, and two sowings, the first in February and another in March, will generally provide a good supply of roots in advance of the outdoor crops. Sow in drills on a gentle hot-bed and thin
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under. For the compact-growing varieties two feet apart each way will generally suffice. Maintain a good tilth by the frequent use of the hoe during summer, and as autumn approaches regul
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ressing of half-rotten dung may be put in with the bottom spit. But a general manuring as for a surface-rooting crop is not to be thought of, the sure effect being to cause the roots to f
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ter, and each lot will require separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan. Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to make it fit for
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d will be found in the end to depend rather upon care than skill. The general principles are the same as in growing Cucumbers in frames, the task for the cultivator being to carry them ou
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l, Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens generally contain a plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties which follow. Several of the most popular He
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ibition, as the roots must be given a longer season of growth than is generally allowed for ordinary crops. It is usual to sow in pans or boxes of moistened soil, placed in a temperature
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ers around London, many tons are imported from France, although it is generally admitted that they are neither so fine nor so rich in flavour as those produced in this country. If, howeve
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celium; and very small pieces of spawn should be avoided because they generally result in small Mushrooms. Immediately the spawning is completed, a thick and even covering of clean straw
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f for a short time daily. In the south, about the middle of April is generally a suitable time for transplanting to open beds, but in the event of a cold east wind prevailing a brief del
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, and the Peas will give double the crop of a crowded plantation. The general sowings of Peas are made from March to June, but as regards the precise time, seasons and climates must be co
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fertile sandy loam, lying well as regards sunshine and drainage, may generally be considered a first-rate Potato soil, and excellent crops have also been grown on thin soils overlying ch
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s a moderate firming with the back of the spade may be desirable, but generally speaking it is sufficient to cover the seed lightly, and so leave it. To thin the crop early is, however, o
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e place. In gardens near towns, where the land is at all heavy, it is generally useless to sow after August, as the autumnal fogs are likely to destroy a plant that is only just out of th
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ts they should be transferred to pots of the fruiting size. No. 32 is generally used for the purpose. After the pots have been crocked some growers add a layer of half-inch bones, which a
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ust. Ground from which some crop, such as Peas, has just been cleared generally needs little preparation beyond breaking the surface with a hoe, followed by a good raking. Thin the plants
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r work a lean-to, facing south, possesses special advantages. But for general utility, if we had to erect a building on a well-drained soil, it should be dwarf, sunk three feet in the gro
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now in a frame, and transferred to the open at the end of April, will generally produce heads in the following August, September, and October. Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be planted this
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early varieties. In particularly late districts, and, perhaps, pretty generally in the North, the late Broccoli should be sown now, but in the Midlands and the South there is time to spar
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time from the end of March to the beginning of May. Two sowings will generally suffice. Spinach.—Sow the Long-standing variety, which does not run so soon as the ordinary kind. If a pla
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which will be ready for blanching in September. Cucumbers on ridges generally do well without water, but they must not be allowed to suffer from drought. If watering must be resorted to
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cted on our own health when dirt poisons the air and damp hastens the general dissolution. It is therefore above all things necessary to keep the garden clean from end to end. All decayin
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a clay that has been well cultivated through several generations will generally produce a fair return for whatever crop may be put upon it. Limestone soils are usually very porous and def
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ent can only be of use when the others are present in the soil, it is generally advisable to apply one from each class, either separately or mixed, in order to insure that the crop is sup
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ifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable to say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy, Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials.
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a good chance from the first. Tender Annuals.—These require the same general treatment as advised for half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat than is necessary
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t the Show Auriculas take precedence over the Alpine section; but for general usefulness the Alpines hold the first place. They may be fearlessly put into the open border, and especially
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e maintained without it. When growth commences in spring, which will generally be early in March, give each plant its final shift into eight-or ten-inch pots. This must be done before th
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l always insure for it a high position in public favour. It is now so generally raised from seed that no other mode of culture need be alluded to. The plant is rapid in growth, very succu
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, may be flowered in the autumn of the same year. But the method more generally practised is to sow on prepared beds in the open during June or July, and to transfer the seedlings when su
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oil and climate. In the southern counties, and on light land, it will generally be safe to winter Hollyhocks in the open, with merely a shelter of dry fern or litter. But in heavy loam or
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y the sun has not sufficient power to do mischief, so that shading is generally unnecessary. An even temperature and freedom from draughts should insure seedlings strong enough to prick o
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rf compact varieties are also highly prized for effective massing and general usefulness. The latter attain a height seldom exceeding six inches, and are therefore eminently suitable for
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plants form conspicuous ornaments and they should be freely grown for general decorative purposes. On special occasions the pots may be plunged to create a brilliant show of bloom as temp
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urable season, and the flowers are of immense size. The double strain generally reaches six feet in height, and is valuable for its fine show of colour and enduring quality. There is no d
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r, and may be cleared off in time to make way for the plants that are generally employed in the summer display and which are known as ‘bedding plants’ _par excellence_. In the management
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compost. Although the individual flowers produced by this method are generally very fine, and the total effect of the bed is exceedingly beautiful, yet the truth must be confessed that f
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RIA Fritillarias produce bell-shaped flowers, varying in colour, but generally of a purplish tint, and beautifully spotted. They thrive in a good deep loam, but may be grown in almost an
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velopment of the flower-heads is surprisingly rapid, and a large bulb generally produces several clusters of sweetly scented flowers. But if the bulbs are forced too quickly the blossoms
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y more heat than is actually necessary. Deviations from this rule are generally traceable to neglect. If the proper season for sowing seed of some important flower has been allowed to pas
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A. plumosus_ have become indispensable for bouquets, buttonholes, and general decorative purposes. _A. decumbens_ and _A. Sprengeri_ are most graceful plants in hanging-baskets. Seed of t
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ps among dwarf fruit trees. Tigridia, or Ferraria.—Finer flowers are generally obtained from the open border than from pots, and the bulbs should be planted out three or four inches deep
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not be too late to sow in June or July, but the finest specimens are generally produced from May sowings. The best results can always be obtained by raising the required number annually
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ll gardens and conservatories during the summer months. But it is not generally realised that several favourite outdoor annuals are as serviceable for flowering under glass in the short d
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defer the finishing temperature until the latest moment possible. For general decorative purposes, small pots will be found extremely convenient when a brilliant display is wanted in a li
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ext season. Lily of the Valley.—The forcing of this favourite flower generally begins in November, and it is important to secure roots which are thoroughly matured for the purpose. They
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sentations of both. The fly lays six to eight eggs on an Onion plant, generally just above the ground. These eggs hatch in from five to seven days, according to the temperature, and the m
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er that they soon see through our devices, which then fail of effect. Generally speaking, two rules may be prescribed. In the first place it is imprudent to fill up their holes or stop th
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n a variety of names in different parts of the country, but it is now generally known as the Wart or Cauliflower Disease, the latter term being attributable to the Cauliflower-like appear
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SSUED BY SUTTON & SONS. Sutton’s Amateur’s Guide in Horticulture and General Garden Seed Catalogue. Containing Descriptive Lists of the finest strains of Vegetables, and the most beauti
and the Potatoes, because these are the most exhaustive crops we grow.
In a ton of Potatoes there are about twelve pounds of potash, four
pounds of sulphuric acid, four pounds of phosphoric acid, and one pound
of magnesia. We may replace these substances by abundant manuring, and
we are bound to say that the best rotation will not obviate the
necessity for manuring; but even then it is well to crop the plot with
Peas, Spinach, Lettuce, and other plants that occupy it for a
comparatively brief space of time, and necessitate much digging and
stirring; for these mechanical agencies combine with the manure in
preparing the plot to grow Potatoes again much better than if the land
were kept to this crop only from year to year. If we could mark out a
plot of ground into four parts, we should devote one plot to permanent
crops—such as Asparagus, Sea Kale, and Rhubarb—and on the other three
keep the crops revolving in some such order as this: No. 1, Potatoes,
Celery, Leek, Carrot, Parsnip, Beet, &c. No. 2, Peas, Beans, Onions,
Summer Spinach, &c., followed by Turnips for winter use, Cabbage for
spring use, and Winter Spinach. No. 3, Brassicas, including Broccoli,
Brussels Sprouts, Kale, &c. In the following year the original No. 1
would be cropped as No. 2, and No. 2 as No. 3. In the third season
corresponding changes would be made, constituting a three-course
system. The cultivator must use discretion in cropping vacant ground.
As an example it will be obvious that land cleared of Early Potatoes
will be very suitable for planting Strawberries. Another point is worth
attention: Peas sown on the lines where Celery has been grown will
thrive without any preparation beyond levelling the ground and drawing
the necessary drills. This is a West of England custom, and it answers
exceedingly well.
THE CHEMISTRY OF GARDEN CROPS
A Consideration of the chemistry of the crops that engage attention in
this country will afford an explanation of one great difference between
farming and gardening. And this difference should be kept in mind by
all classes of cultivators as the basis of operations in tillage,
cropping, and the order and character of rotations. The first thing to
discover in the cropping of a farm is the kind of vegetation for which
the land is best adapted to insure, in a run of seasons, fairly
profitable results. If the soil is unfit for cereals, then it is sheer
folly to sow any more corn than may be needful for convenience, as, for
example, to supply straw for thatching and litter, and oats for horses,
to save cost of carriage, &c. On large farms that are far removed from
markets it is often necessary to risk a few crops that the land is ill
fitted for, in order to satisfy the requirements of the homestead, and
to save the outlay of money and the inconvenience of hauling from
distant markets. But everywhere the cropping must be adapted to the
soil and the climate as nearly as possible, both to simplify operations
and enlarge to the utmost the chances of success. In the cropping of a
garden this plain procedure cannot be followed. We are compelled
certainly to consider what the soil and climate will especially favour
amongst garden crops, but, notwithstanding this, the gardener must grow
whatever the household requires. He may have to grow Peas on a hot
shallow sand; and Potatoes and Carrots on a cold clay; and Asparagus on
a shallow bed of pebbles and potsherds. To the gardener the chemistry
of crops is a matter of great importance, because he cannot restrict
his operations to such crops as the land is particularly adapted for,
but must endeavour to make the land capable of carrying more or less of
all the vegetables and fruits that find a place in the catalogue of
domestic wants. That he must fail at certain points is inevitable;
nevertheless his aim will be, and must be, of a somewhat universal
kind, and a clear idea of the relations of plants to the soil in which
they grow will be of constant and incalculable value to him.
We are bound to say at the outset that a complete essay on the
chemistry of vegetation is not our purpose. We are anxious to convey
some useful information, and to kindle sufficient interest to induce
those who have hitherto given but slight attention to this question to
inquire further, with a view to get far beyond the point at which we
shall have to quit the subject.
Plants consist of two classes of constituents—the Inorganic, which may
be called the foundation; and the Organic, which may be considered the
superstructure. With the former of these we are principally concerned
here. A plant must derive from the soil certain proportions of silica,
lime, sulphur, phosphates, alkalies, and other mineral constituents, or
it cannot exist at all; but, given these, the manufacture of fibre,
starch, gum, sugar, and other organic products depends on the action of
light, heat, atmospheric air, and moisture, for the organic products
have to be created by chemical (or vital) action within the structure,
or, as we sometimes say, the tissues of the plant itself. To a very
great extent the agencies that conduce to the elaboration of organic
products are beyond our control (though not entirely so), whereas we
can directly, and to a considerable degree, provide the plant with the
minerals it more particularly requires; first, by choosing the ground
for it, and next by tilling and manuring in a suitable manner. A clay
soil, in which, in addition to the predominating alumina, there is a
fair proportion of lime, may be regarded as the most fertile for all
purposes; but we have few such in Britain, our clays being mostly of an
obdurate texture, retentive of moisture, and requiring much
cultivation, and containing, moreover, salts of iron in proportions and
forms almost poisonous to plants. But there are profound resources in
most clays, so that if it is difficult to tame them, it is also
difficult to exhaust them. Hence a clay that has been well cultivated
through several generations will generally produce a fair return for
whatever crop may be put upon it. Limestone soils are usually very
porous and deficient of clay, and therefore have no sustaining power.
Many of our great tracts of mountain limestone are mere sheep-walks,
and would be comparatively worthless except for the lime that may be
obtained by burning. On the other hand, chalk, which is a more recent
form of carbonate of lime, is often highly productive, more especially
where, through long cultivation, it has been much broken up, and has
become loamy through accumulation of humus. Between the oldest
limestone and the latest chalk there are many intermediate kinds of
calcareous soils, and they are mostly good, owing to their richness in
phosphates, the products of the marine organisms of which these rocks
in great part, and in some cases wholly, consist. For the growth of
cereals these calcareous soils need a certain proportion of silica, and
where they have this we see some of the finest crops of Wheat,
Trifolium, Peas and Beans in these islands. If we could mix some of our
obdurate clays with our barren limestones, the two comparatively
worthless staples would probably prove remarkably fertile. Although
this is impossible, a consideration of the chemistry of the imaginary
mixture may be useful, more especially to the gardener, who can in a
small way accomplish many things that are impracticable on a great
scale. Sandy soils are characterised by excess of silica, and
deficiency of alumina, phosphates and potash. Here the mechanical
texture is as serious a matter as it is in the case of clay. The sand
is too loose as the clay is too pasty, and it may be that we have to
prevent the estate from being blown away. It is especially worthy of
observation, however, that sandy soils are the most readily amenable of
any to the operation of tillage. If we cannot take much out of them, we
can put any amount into them, and it is always necessary to calculate
where the process of enrichment is to stop. It is not less worthy of
observation that sandy soils can be rendered capable of producing
almost every kind of crop, save cereals and pulse, and even these can
be secured where there is some basis of peat or loam or clay with the
sand. The parks and gardens of Paris, Versailles, and Haarlem are on
deep sands that drift before the wind when left exposed for any length
of time with no crop upon them; and not only do we see the finest of
Potatoes and the most nutritious of herbage produced on these soils,
but good Cauliflowers, Peas, Beans, Onions, fruits, and big trees of
sound timber.
Garden soils usually consist of loam of some kind, the consequence of
long cultivation. Natural loams are the result of the decay and
admixture of various earths, and they are mostly of a mellow texture,
easily worked and highly productive. They are, as a rule, the best of
all soils, and their goodness is in part due to the fact that they
contain a little of everything, with no great predominance of any one
particular earth. Cultivation also produces loam. On a clay land we
find a top crust of clayey loam, and on a lime or chalk land a top
crust of calcareous loam. Where cultivation has been long pursued the
staple is broken and manures are put on, and the roots of plants assist
in disintegration and decomposition. Thus there is accumulation of
humus and a decomposition of the rock proceeding together, and a loam
of some sort is the result. Hence the necessity of caution in respect
of deep trenching, for if we bury the top soil and put in its place a
crude material that has not before seen daylight, we may lose ten years
in profitable cropping, because we must now begin to tame a savage soil
that we have been at great pains to bring up, to cover a stratum of a
good material prepared for us by the combined operations of Nature and
Art during, perhaps, several centuries. But deep and good garden soils
may be safely trenched and freely knocked about, because not only does
the process favour the deep rooting of the plants, but it favours also
that disintegration which is one of the causes of fertility. Every
pebble is capable of imparting to the soil a solution—infinitesimal,
perhaps, but not the less real—of silica, or lime, or potash, or
phosphates, or perhaps of all these; but it must be exposed to light
and air and moisture to enable it to part with a portion of its
substance, and thus it is that mechanical tillage is of the first
importance in all agricultural and horticultural operations.
The principal inorganic or mineral constituents of plants are potash,
soda, lime, iron, phosphorus, sulphur, chlorine, and silica. Clays and
loams are generally rich in potash, sulphur, and phosphates, but
deficient in soluble silica and lime. Limestone and chalk are usually
rich in lime and phosphates, but deficient in humus, silica, sulphur,
and alkalies. Sandy soils are rich in silica, but are generally poor in
respect of phosphates and alkalies. Therefore, on a clay or loam,
farmyard manure is invaluable, because it contains ingredients that all
crops appreciate, and also because it is helpful in breaking up the
texture of the soil. The occasional application of lime also is
important for its almost magical effect on garden soil that has been
liberally manured and heavily cropped for a long term of years.
Calcareous soils are greatly benefited by a free application to them of
manure from the stable and cow-byre; but as a rule it would be like
carrying coals to Newcastle to dress these soils with lime. Clay may be
put on with advantage; and nothing benefits a hot chalky soil more than
a good dose of mud from ponds and ditches, which supplies at once
humus, alumina, and silicates, and gives ‘staple’ to the soil, while
preventing it also from ‘burning.’ In the manuring of sandy soils great
care is requisite, because of their absorbing power. In the
bulb-growing districts of Holland, manure from cowsheds is worth an
enormous price for digging into loose sand for a crop of Potatoes, to
be followed by bulbs. Sandy soils are generally deficient in phosphates
and alkalies; hence it will on such soils be frequently found that
kainit (a crude form of potash) and superphosphate of lime will
conjointly produce the best results, more especially in raising
Potatoes, Onions, and Carrots, which are particularly well adapted for
sandy soils. Probably one of the best fertilisers is genuine farmyard
manure from stall-fed cattle, for it contains phosphates, alkalies, and
silicates in available forms. For similar reasons Peruvian Guano is
often useful on such soils. Artificial manure should be selected with a
view to correct the deficiencies of the soil, and to satisfy the
requirements of the crops to be grown on it.
While we have thus dealt principally with the Inorganic or mineral
constituents of plants, and the way in which the deficiencies of the
soil in respect of any of them may be supplied by artificial
applications, we must not ignore the other class of constituents, the
Organic. These are supplied almost entirely from the atmosphere itself,
though, to a limited extent, the presence in the soil of humus or
vegetable matter contributes also. Yet this latter, as seen in the case
of land heavily dressed with farmyard or stable manure, vegetable
refuse, &c., exercises important functions in other directions. Not
only are mineral constituents, in forms available for assimilation,
supplied, but soils so treated derive peculiar advantages as regards
their mechanical state and improved physical conditions, chiefly in
respect of retention of moisture, warmth, &c. Thus, sandy soils, which
are very apt, through poverty in humus, to lose their moisture readily
and to ‘burn,’ are rendered more retentive of moisture and fertilising
constituents by the use of farmyard manure, &c., and have more ‘staple’
or substance given to them, while heavy, tenacious clays are opened
out, lightened, and rendered more amenable to the influences of
drainage, aeration, &c., and so become less cold and inactive.
For the present purpose the principal garden crops may be grouped in
two classes, in accordance with their main characteristics and the
predominance of certain of their mineral elements. The figures given on
the following page show the average percentage proportions of the
several minerals in the ashes of the different plants.
In Class I. Phosphates and Potash predominate. This class consists of
the less succulent plants, and includes the following: The Pea:
containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, thirty-six; potash,
forty. Bean: phosphates, thirty; potash, forty-four. Potato (tubers
only): phosphates, nineteen; potash, fifty-nine; soda, two; lime, two;
sulphuric acid, six. Parsnip: phosphates, eighteen; potash, thirty-six;
lime, eleven; salt, five. Carrot: phosphates, twelve; potash,
thirty-six; soda, thirteen; sulphuric acid, six. Jerusalem Artichoke:
phosphates, sixteen; potash, sixty-five.
In Class II. Sulphur, Lime and Soda Salts are predominant. This class
consists of the more succulent plants, and includes the following:
Cabbage: containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, sixteen;
potash, forty-eight; soda, four; lime, fifteen; sulphuric acid, eight.
Turnip: phosphates, thirteen; potash, thirty-nine; soda, five; lime,
ten; sulphuric acid, fourteen. Beet: phosphates, fourteen; potash,
forty-nine; soda, nineteen; lime, six; sulphuric acid, five.
As a matter of course, Lentils and other kinds of pulse agree more or
less with Peas and Beans in the predominance of phosphates and potash.
So, again, all the Brassicas, whether Kales, Cauliflower, or whatever
else, agree nearly with the Cabbage in the prominent presence of lime
and sulphur; ingredients which fully account for the offensive odour of
these vegetables when in a state of decay. Fruits as a rule are highly
charged with alkalies, and are rarely deficient in phosphates;
moreover, stone-fruits require lime, for they have to make bone as well
as flesh when they produce a crop. As regards the alkalies, plants
appear capable of substituting soda for potash under some
circumstances, but it would not be prudent for the cultivator to assume
that the cheaper alkali might take the place of the more costly one as
a mineral agent, for Nature is stern and constant in her ways, and it
can hardly be supposed that a plant in which potash normally
predominates can attain to perfection in a soil deficient in potash,
however well supplied it may be with soda. The cheaper alkali in
combination as salt (chloride of sodium) may, however, be usually
employed in aid of quick-growing green crops; and more or less with
tap-roots and Brassicas. Salt, too, is very useful in a dry season by
reason of its power of attracting and retaining moisture. As regards
Potatoes, it is worthy of observation that they contain but a trace of
silica, and yet they generally thrive on sand, and in many instances
crops grown on sand are free from disease and of high quality, although
the weight may not be great. The mechanical texture of the soil has
much to do with this; and when that is aided by a supply of potash and
phosphates, whether from farmyard manure or artificials, sandy soils
become highly productive of Potatoes of the very finest quality. On the
other hand, Potatoes also grow well on limestone and chalk, and yet
there is but little lime in them. Here, again, mechanical texture
explains the case in part, and it is further explained by the
sufficiency of potash and phosphates, as also of magnesia, which enters
in a special manner into the mineral constitution of this root.
Thus far we have not even mentioned nitrogen, or its common form of
salts of ammonia; nor have we mentioned carbon, or its very familiar
form of carbonic acid. These are important elements of plant growth;
and they account for the efficacy of manures derived directly from the
animal kingdom, as, for example, the droppings of animals, including
guano, which consisted originally of the droppings of sea-birds. Some
of the nitrogen in these substances, however, is of an evanescent
character, and rapidly flies away in the form of carbonate of ammonia;
hence, a heap of farmyard manure, left for several years, loses much of
its value as manure, and guano should be kept in bulk as long as
possible, and protected from the atmosphere, or its ammonia will
largely disappear. One difficulty experienced by chemists and others in
preparing artificial manures is that of ‘fixing’ the needful ammonia,
so that it may be kept from being dissipated in the atmosphere, and at
the same time be always in a state in which it can be appropriated by
the plant. In all good manures, however, there is a certain proportion
of it in combination, and in many instances the percentage of nitrogen
is made the test of the value of a manure.
The importance of humus—the black earthy substance resulting from the
decay of vegetation—in a soil is that it contains in an assimilable
form many of the ingredients essential to plant life. Humus when it
decomposes gives off carbonic acid, which breaks up the mineral
substances in the soil and renders them available as plant food. When
vegetable refuse is burned, the nitrogen—one of the costliest
constituents—is dissipated and lost. But by burying the refuse the soil
gets back a proportion of the organic nitrogen it surrendered and
something over in the way of soluble phosphatic and potassic salts; and
as this organic nitrogen assumes ultimately the form of nitric acid, it
can be assimilated by the growing plant, to the great benefit of
whatever crop may occupy the ground.
The practical conclusion is, that in the treatment of the soil a
skilful gardener will endeavour to promote its fertility by affording
the natural influences of rain, frost and sun full opportunity of
liberating the constituents that are locked up in the staple; by
restoring in the form of refuse as much as possible of what the soil
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