THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
TEXT
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ear the garden presents new features of interest. In considering the general order of work in the Kitchen Garden, the first principle is that its productive powers shall be taxed to the
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wasteful tax on the energy of the plant. For home consumption it will generally suffice if the white portion is about four inches long, and this determines the depth at which the sticks s
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k of failure, especially on hot soils. A strong soil is suitable, and generally speaking a heavy crop of Beans may be taken from a well-managed clay. But any deep cool soil will answer, a
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ed, and two sowings, the first in February and another in March, will generally provide a good supply of roots in advance of the outdoor crops. Sow in drills on a gentle hot-bed and thin
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under. For the compact-growing varieties two feet apart each way will generally suffice. Maintain a good tilth by the frequent use of the hoe during summer, and as autumn approaches regul
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ressing of half-rotten dung may be put in with the bottom spit. But a general manuring as for a surface-rooting crop is not to be thought of, the sure effect being to cause the roots to f
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ter, and each lot will require separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan. Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to make it fit for
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d will be found in the end to depend rather upon care than skill. The general principles are the same as in growing Cucumbers in frames, the task for the cultivator being to carry them ou
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l, Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens generally contain a plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties which follow. Several of the most popular He
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ibition, as the roots must be given a longer season of growth than is generally allowed for ordinary crops. It is usual to sow in pans or boxes of moistened soil, placed in a temperature
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ers around London, many tons are imported from France, although it is generally admitted that they are neither so fine nor so rich in flavour as those produced in this country. If, howeve
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celium; and very small pieces of spawn should be avoided because they generally result in small Mushrooms. Immediately the spawning is completed, a thick and even covering of clean straw
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f for a short time daily. In the south, about the middle of April is generally a suitable time for transplanting to open beds, but in the event of a cold east wind prevailing a brief del
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, and the Peas will give double the crop of a crowded plantation. The general sowings of Peas are made from March to June, but as regards the precise time, seasons and climates must be co
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fertile sandy loam, lying well as regards sunshine and drainage, may generally be considered a first-rate Potato soil, and excellent crops have also been grown on thin soils overlying ch
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s a moderate firming with the back of the spade may be desirable, but generally speaking it is sufficient to cover the seed lightly, and so leave it. To thin the crop early is, however, o
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e place. In gardens near towns, where the land is at all heavy, it is generally useless to sow after August, as the autumnal fogs are likely to destroy a plant that is only just out of th
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ts they should be transferred to pots of the fruiting size. No. 32 is generally used for the purpose. After the pots have been crocked some growers add a layer of half-inch bones, which a
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ust. Ground from which some crop, such as Peas, has just been cleared generally needs little preparation beyond breaking the surface with a hoe, followed by a good raking. Thin the plants
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r work a lean-to, facing south, possesses special advantages. But for general utility, if we had to erect a building on a well-drained soil, it should be dwarf, sunk three feet in the gro
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now in a frame, and transferred to the open at the end of April, will generally produce heads in the following August, September, and October. Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be planted this
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early varieties. In particularly late districts, and, perhaps, pretty generally in the North, the late Broccoli should be sown now, but in the Midlands and the South there is time to spar
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time from the end of March to the beginning of May. Two sowings will generally suffice. Spinach.—Sow the Long-standing variety, which does not run so soon as the ordinary kind. If a pla
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which will be ready for blanching in September. Cucumbers on ridges generally do well without water, but they must not be allowed to suffer from drought. If watering must be resorted to
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cted on our own health when dirt poisons the air and damp hastens the general dissolution. It is therefore above all things necessary to keep the garden clean from end to end. All decayin
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a clay that has been well cultivated through several generations will generally produce a fair return for whatever crop may be put upon it. Limestone soils are usually very porous and def
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ent can only be of use when the others are present in the soil, it is generally advisable to apply one from each class, either separately or mixed, in order to insure that the crop is sup
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ifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable to say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy, Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials.
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a good chance from the first. Tender Annuals.—These require the same general treatment as advised for half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat than is necessary
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t the Show Auriculas take precedence over the Alpine section; but for general usefulness the Alpines hold the first place. They may be fearlessly put into the open border, and especially
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e maintained without it. When growth commences in spring, which will generally be early in March, give each plant its final shift into eight-or ten-inch pots. This must be done before th
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l always insure for it a high position in public favour. It is now so generally raised from seed that no other mode of culture need be alluded to. The plant is rapid in growth, very succu
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, may be flowered in the autumn of the same year. But the method more generally practised is to sow on prepared beds in the open during June or July, and to transfer the seedlings when su
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oil and climate. In the southern counties, and on light land, it will generally be safe to winter Hollyhocks in the open, with merely a shelter of dry fern or litter. But in heavy loam or
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y the sun has not sufficient power to do mischief, so that shading is generally unnecessary. An even temperature and freedom from draughts should insure seedlings strong enough to prick o
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rf compact varieties are also highly prized for effective massing and general usefulness. The latter attain a height seldom exceeding six inches, and are therefore eminently suitable for
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plants form conspicuous ornaments and they should be freely grown for general decorative purposes. On special occasions the pots may be plunged to create a brilliant show of bloom as temp
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urable season, and the flowers are of immense size. The double strain generally reaches six feet in height, and is valuable for its fine show of colour and enduring quality. There is no d
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r, and may be cleared off in time to make way for the plants that are generally employed in the summer display and which are known as ‘bedding plants’ _par excellence_. In the management
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compost. Although the individual flowers produced by this method are generally very fine, and the total effect of the bed is exceedingly beautiful, yet the truth must be confessed that f
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RIA Fritillarias produce bell-shaped flowers, varying in colour, but generally of a purplish tint, and beautifully spotted. They thrive in a good deep loam, but may be grown in almost an
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velopment of the flower-heads is surprisingly rapid, and a large bulb generally produces several clusters of sweetly scented flowers. But if the bulbs are forced too quickly the blossoms
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y more heat than is actually necessary. Deviations from this rule are generally traceable to neglect. If the proper season for sowing seed of some important flower has been allowed to pas
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A. plumosus_ have become indispensable for bouquets, buttonholes, and general decorative purposes. _A. decumbens_ and _A. Sprengeri_ are most graceful plants in hanging-baskets. Seed of t
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ps among dwarf fruit trees. Tigridia, or Ferraria.—Finer flowers are generally obtained from the open border than from pots, and the bulbs should be planted out three or four inches deep
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not be too late to sow in June or July, but the finest specimens are generally produced from May sowings. The best results can always be obtained by raising the required number annually
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ll gardens and conservatories during the summer months. But it is not generally realised that several favourite outdoor annuals are as serviceable for flowering under glass in the short d
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defer the finishing temperature until the latest moment possible. For general decorative purposes, small pots will be found extremely convenient when a brilliant display is wanted in a li
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ext season. Lily of the Valley.—The forcing of this favourite flower generally begins in November, and it is important to secure roots which are thoroughly matured for the purpose. They
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sentations of both. The fly lays six to eight eggs on an Onion plant, generally just above the ground. These eggs hatch in from five to seven days, according to the temperature, and the m
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er that they soon see through our devices, which then fail of effect. Generally speaking, two rules may be prescribed. In the first place it is imprudent to fill up their holes or stop th
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n a variety of names in different parts of the country, but it is now generally known as the Wart or Cauliflower Disease, the latter term being attributable to the Cauliflower-like appear
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SSUED BY SUTTON & SONS. Sutton’s Amateur’s Guide in Horticulture and General Garden Seed Catalogue. Containing Descriptive Lists of the finest strains of Vegetables, and the most beauti
of producing some of the most elegant garden flowers in one season from
seed alone.
The time and the method of sowing flower seeds must in each case be
regulated by considerations as to their nature. Seeds of tender plants
are usually sown in pots or pans and placed on a moderate hot-bed or in
a propagating house early in spring, and in this case the plants have
greenhouse cultivation until the time arrives for hardening them off
preparatory to final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be
treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for
their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks, plants that
differ immensely in habit and constitution, may all be sown in
February, and put side by side in the same warm pit or vinery, or even
in the warmest corner of any greenhouse, and the very same treatment
will suit them equally well. The soil should be principally loam and
sand, with a little old thoroughly well-rotted manure from a hot-bed or
compost heap; and light, air, and moisture must be regulated with a
view to insure a free and vigorous growth from the first, with the
least possible amount of artificial heat. In some cases, however, the
sowing should be deferred to March or April, and the result will be far
more satisfactory than the growth made under the stimulus of artificial
heat earlier in the season. But in every case the plants must have
sufficient time; for although the rapid system has been developed, the
constitution of the plants remains unchanged, and those which have
heretofore been classed as biennials and perennials need a long season
when treated as annuals.
A considerable proportion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed
by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as
an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame and some
packets of seed, and the month of February or March has arrived. The
pans and pots are made ready with sweet sandy compost, and the seeds
are sown and labelled, and the pans and pots are packed together in the
frame on a bed of clean coal ashes, or some slates, or tiles, or bricks
laid on the soil, to promote warmth and cleanliness and to prevent the
intrusion of worms among the seeds. By simple management almost as
quick a growth of seeds can be insured in this frame as with the aid of
a hot-bed, and the secret consists in careful storage of the heat of
the sun. Lay over the seed-pans sheets of glass to prevent evaporation,
and let the sun shine full upon them. Be careful as to moisture: they
must never be wet, never dry, and the water must not be slopped about
carelessly. It is a good rule to immerse the pots or pans in a vessel
containing soft water, slightly tepid. When the seedlings begin to
appear, give a little air and lay sheets of paper tenderly over them
during the hour or two at midday when the sun may be shining brightly.
But keep them from the first as ‘hard’ as possible with plenty of light
and air, always taking care that they are neither roasted, nor blown
away by the cruel east wind, nor nipped at night by a killing frost. A
few old mats or light loppings of trees laid over the frame from
sundown to sunrise will be sufficient protection at those trying times;
and when spring frosts are making havoc with the tender sprouting leaf
and bloom in every part of the garden those little things will be safe
under their glass cover, and slight experience will show that a common
frame may become a miniature hot-house in the hands of one who has
learned to make failure the stepping-stone to success. We must not omit
to mention that the owner of such a garden, or, indeed, of any garden,
will be prudent to take advantage of the first fine weather to sow in
the open ground whatever flower or vegetable seeds should be sown at
that season. The frame garden can be reserved, if needful, for wet
weather, because it is of the utmost importance to sow a good breadth
of seeds in the open ground as early as possible in the month of March.
Turning from this small example to the great garden, it will be obvious
that to those who always have heavy work on hand the advantages of this
transference, of labour from the old system to the new are immense.
Both to employers and gardeners the advantages are of importance; the
propagation of bedders by cuttings, and of florists’ flowers by suckers
and divisions and layers and pipings, will not, of course, be
completely abolished; but for all ordinary purposes the ends in view
may be accomplished more simply, more expeditiously, and more cheaply
than heretofore. The pits hitherto appropriated to bedders, and the
like, may to a great extent be liberated, and there will be no
difficulty in finding for them more profitable occupants. While
Mushrooms and early Potatoes and winter salads are in request, it will
be a gain to many a garden to have reduced the summer display of
flowers to a simple system of seed-sowing, at an expense that may be
described as merely nominal.
Before dealing specifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable
to say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy,
Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials.
Annuals.—Although the most popular kinds of annuals are largely
employed in the embellishment of flower gardens, they are adapted for
many uses to which they may with advantage be more frequently applied.
A few misconceptions prevail as to the relative merits of this class of
plants. By some they are regarded as ‘weedy’ and ‘short-lived.’ Their
very cheapness, and the relatively small amount of skill required in
their cultivation, tend in some degree to detract from their value in
public estimation. We will not be so rash as to say that a more
extended use of annuals would render unnecessary the cultivation of
what are especially known as ‘bedding plants’; but there is something
to be said on behalf of annuals that may be worth the consideration of
all who are interested in the development of freshness, variety, and
richness of colour in the flower garden. In the first place, these
plants come into flower within a comparatively short period of time
from the sowing of the seed, and it is a matter of considerable
importance that a large proportion of the best continue beautiful until
the very close of the season. Sometimes in the autumn Geraniums become
literally washed out, while Tom Thumb Nasturtiums may be ablaze with
colour, and continue so when the Geraniums are housed for the winter. A
large number of showy and long-lasting annuals are adapted for
employment in bedding, and by a little management those that do not
last the season out may be replaced by others for succession; thus
affording the advantage of increased variety, and making no demand for
glass and fuel to keep them through the winter as do the ordinary
bedders. We have had great and glorious sheets of Candytufts,
snow-white, rich crimson, and bright carmine; and when they began to
wane they were removed, and the ground planted with Asters, and very
soon there was another display, so fresh and bright and various that no
greenhouse bedders could surpass them. Great hungry banks, that would
have swallowed many pounds’ worth of greenhouse plants to cover them,
have been made delightfully gay at a very trifling cost by sowing upon
them Tropæolums, Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, _Bartonia aurea_, the dwarf
varieties of _Lupinus_, Virginian Stock, _Collinsia bicolor_,
Convolvuluses, Candytufts, Eschscholtzias, Poppies, and Clarkias; and
damp, half-shady borders have been delicately tessellated by means of
Forget-me-nots, Venus’ Looking-glass, Pansies, the Rosy Oxalis,
Nemophilas, Godetias, Silenes, Coreopsis, and Scabious.
For the more important positions in the flower garden we have choice of
many really sumptuous subjects, such as Stocks, Asters, Balsams,
Drummond’s Phlox, Lobelias, the lovely new varieties of Antirrhinums,
Dianthus, Portulacas, Zinnias, tall Stock-flowered Larkspurs, Nemesias,
and many other flowers equally beautiful and lasting. We do not hope by
these brief remarks to change the prevailing fashion—indeed, we have no
particular wish that way—but we feel bound to observe that it is
sufficient for the beauty of the garden that the greenhouse bedders
should be confined to the parterre proper. It is waste of space and
opportunity to place them in the borders everywhere, as is too commonly
done. In sunny borders, annual and perennial herbaceous plants are far
more appropriate.
Some time since, while walking over a large garden, we left the rich
colouring of the geometric beds to discover what should make the
wondrous glow of crimson on a border far away; and to our surprise it
proved to be a clump of the Indian Pink, which had been sown as an
annual with other annuals, and was there shining in the midst of a
constellation of the loveliest flowers of all forms and hues, the
result simply of sowing a few packets of seed. No one can despise the
Wallflower in the spring, and the heavenly-blue flowers of _Nemophila
insignis_ in early summer will tempt many a one to walk in the garden
who would care little for sheets of scarlet and yellow that in full
sunshine make the eyes ache to look upon them. It must be remembered,
too, that among annuals are found many most richly-scented flowers;
others, like the everlastings and the grasses, are valuable to dry for
winter use for employment in bouquets, and garlands in Christmas
decorations; and the Sweet Peas, and _Tropæolum canariense,_ and
climbing Convolvulus may be employed to cover arbours and trellises
with the best effect possible, and may even be allowed to hang in
festoons about the sunny parts of rockeries, or trail over the ground
to make genuine bedding effects. Another important matter must have
mention here, and we commend it to the consideration of gardeners who
are severely taxed to secure extensive displays of flowers during the
summer season. It is that a number of plants of highly ornamental
character, usually treated as perennials, are really more effective,
besides occasioning less labour to produce them, when cultivated as
annuals. The Dianthus and its several splendid varieties do better as
annuals than biennials. For all the ordinary purposes of display,
Lobelias may be as well grown from seed as from cuttings, and in every
garden will be found proof of the small amount of care they require;
for we find stray, self-sown plants in pots of Geraniums and other
places, and these, if left alone, become perfect bushes, and are a mass
of flowers all the summer. Many annuals commonly reputed to be tender
and usually raised in heat do very well indeed on a more rough and
ready method. In proof of this, sow _Perilla nankinensis_ in the first
week of May where it is required, and in the month of July you will
probably be convinced that Perilla does not always need careful nursing
in heated houses through the spring. Even the really tender Castor-oil
Plant will thrive if sown in the open ground the first week in May.
Having no check, as plants put out from pots must have, the growth will
be regular and sturdy, and attain magnificent dimensions.
Perhaps the most effective way of growing annuals is to arrange them in
harmonious blendings or contrasts of colour. The wide choice of
varieties available admits of an almost endless number of combinations,
and the following tables, classified according to colour, will no doubt
afford some serviceable suggestions, although these by no means exhaust
the list. The height is indicated in feet and Climbers as ‘Cl.’
WHITE, AND CREAM SHADES.
TALL.
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Princess May 3
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Double white 3
Cornflower, White 3
Helichrysum, Silver Globe 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, White 3
Lavatera alba splendens 3
Poppy, Giant Double, White 3
Poppy Giant Single, White 3
Scabious, Snowball 3
Chrysanthemum carinatum album 2-1/2
Chrysanthemum Dunnetti, Double white 2-1/2
Nasturtium, Tall, Pearl Cl.
MEDIUM.
Clarkia elegans, Snowball 2
Lupinus Hartwegii, White 2
Malope, White 2
Poppy, White Swan 2
Shirley, Double White 2
Calendula pluvialis 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum
Clarkia, Double White 1-1/2
Gilia nivalis 1-1/2
Gypsophila elegans 1-1/2
Hawkweed, White 1-1/2
Hawkweed Silver 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, White 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant White 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Dwarf double white 1-1/4
DWARF.
Acroclinium, Single White 1
Candytuft, Improved White Spiral 1
Clarkia, Dwarf white 1
Clarkia Double dwarf white 1
Convolvulus minor, White 1
Eschscholtzia crocea alba 1
Godetia, Duchess of Albany 1
Layia elegans alba 1
Linaria, Snow-white 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Pearl 1
Platystemon californicus 1
Viscaria, Pure White 1
Alyssum, Sweet 3/4
Chrysanthemum inodorum plenis-simum,
Bridal Robe 3/4
Collinsia candidissima 3/4
Godetia, Dwarf White 3/4
Swan River Daisy, White 3/4
Swan River Daisy Star White 3/4
Venus’ Looking-glass, White 3/4
Venus’ Navel-wort 3/4
Virginian Stock, White 3/4
Candytuft, Little Prince 1/2
Nemophila insignis alba 1/2
Alyssum minimum 1/3
Silene, Dwarf White 1/3
YELLOW AND ORANGE SHADES
TALL.
Sunflower, Giant Yellow 10
Sunflower Primrose Perfection 6
Sunflower Miniature 4
Sunflower Stella 4
Sunflower Primrose Stella 4
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Chrysanthemum Double yellow 3
Chrysanthemum, Golden Queen 3
Coreopsis tinctoria 3
Helichrysum, Golden Globe 3
Sunflower, Dwarf Double 3
Sunflower Single Dwarf 3
Chrysanthemum Dunnettii,
Chrysanthemum Double Golden 2-1/2
Marigold, African 2-1/2
Nasturtium, Ivy-leaved Golden Gem Cl.
Nasturtium, Tall, Yellow Cl.
MEDIUM.
Hibiscus africanus major 2
Bartonia aurea 1-1/2
Chrysanthemum, Star varieties 1-1/2
Coreopsis Drummondii 1-1/2
Coreopsis coronata 1-1/2
Erysimum, Orange Gem 1-1/2
Hawkweed, Yellow 1-1/2
Leptosyne Stillmani 1-1/2
Lupinus Menziesii 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Yellow 1-1/2
DWARF.
Calendula, Orange King 1
Calendula Lemon Queen 1
Cheiranthus Allionii 1
Chrysanthemum coronarium,
Chrysanthemum coronarium, Dwarf double yellow 1
Dimorphotheca aurantiaca 1
Eschscholtzia californica 1
Escholtzia, crocea 1
Escholtzia, crocea fl. pl. 1
Eschscholtzia, Mikado 3/4
Layia elegans 1
Lupinus, Dwarf yellow 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Cloth of Gold 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Yellow 1
Tagetes signata pumila 1
Tagetes Mandarin 3/4
Linaria, Golden Gem 3/4
Marigold, Miniature orange 3/4
Marigold Miniature orange 3/4
Eschscholtzia, Miniature Primrose 1/2
Limnanthes Douglasii 1/2
Sanvitalia procumbens, Single 1/2
Sanvitalia Double 1/2
Leptosiphon aureus 1/4
BLUE, MAUVE, AND PURPLE SHADES.
TALL.
Cornflower, Blue 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Blue 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Pale Mauve 3
Lupinus, Tall dark blue 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Mauve 3
Scabious, Mauve 3
MEDIUM.
Godetia, Double Mauve 2
Lupinus Hartwegii, Azure Blue 2
Poppy, Mauve Queen 2
Sweet Sultan, Purple 2
Xeranthemum superbissimum 2
Xeranthemum imperiale 2
Anchusa, Annual Blue 1-1/2
Gilia capitata 1-1/2
Gilia tricolour 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, Purple 1-1/2
Nigella, Miss Jekyll 1-1/2
Phacelia tanacetifolia 1-1/2
Salvia, Blue Beard 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant Delicate Mauve 1-1/2
Sweet Sultan, Giant Mauve 1-1/2
DWARF.
Asperula azurea setosa 1
Candytuft, Lilac 1
Convolvulus minor, Dark blue 1
Convolvulus Sky-blue 1
Cornflower, King of Blue Bottles 1
Eutoca viscida 1
Linaria, Mauve 1
Lupinus, Dwarf rich blue 1
Mathiola bicornis 1
Phacelia congesta 1
Viscaria, Bright Blue 1
Whitlavia gloxinioides 1
Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf blue 3/4
Leptosiphon androsaceus 3/4
Nigella, Double dwarf 3/4
Phacelia campanularia 3/4
Swan River Daisy, Blue 3/4
Swan River Daisy, Star Blue 3/4
Campanula attica 1/2
Nemophila insignis 1/2
PINK AND ROSE SHADES
TALL.
Cornflower, Pink 3
Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Rosy Scarlet 3
Lavatera rosea splendens 3
Lupinus mutabilis, Cream and Pink 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Chamois-rose 3
Scabious, Pink 3
Nasturtium, Salmon Queen Cl.
Nasturtium, Rosy Queen Cl.
MEDIUM.
Clarkia elegans, Double Salmon 2
Clarkia elegans, Double Delicate Pink 2
Godetia, Double Rose 2
Jacobea, Single, Bright Rose 2
Poppy, Pink Gem 2
Poppy, Cardinal, Salmon-pink 2
Poppy, Shirley, Single Rose-pink 2
Poppy, Shirley, Double Pink 2
Saponaria Vaccaria, Pink 2
Clarkia, Double Rose 1-1/2
Hawkweed, Pink 1-1/2
Jacobea, Double, Rose 1-1/2
Silene Armeria, Rose 1-1/2
Statice Suworowi 1-1/4
DWARF.
Acroclinium, Double rose 1
Acrolinium, Single rose 1
Convolvulus minor, Pink 1
Eschscholtzia, Frilled Pink 1
Escholtzia, Rosy Queen 1
Escholtzia, Rose cardinal 1
Gypsophila elegans, Delicate pink 1
Lupinus, Dwarf delicate pink 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Salmon Pink 1
Nasturtium, Dwarf, cæruleum roseum 1
Silene, Double Salmon Pink 1
Silene, Double Delicate Pink 1
Silene, Bonetti 1
Silene, Pseudo-Atocion 1
Statice spicata 1
Viscaria, Delicate Pink 1
Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf rose 3/4
Godetia, Dwarf Pink 3/4
Godetia, Satin-rose 3/4
Abronia umbellata 1/2
Candytuft, Dwarf Pink 1/2
Saponaria calabrica 1/2
Silene, Double Dwarf Delicate Pink 1/3
Silene, Double Dwarf Brilliant Rose 1/3
Silene, Bonetti, Dwarf Pink 1/3
Leptosiphon roseus 1/4
CRIMSON AND SCARLET SHADES,
including Carmine and Ruby.
TALL.
Coreopsis atrosanguinea 3
Helichrysum, Fireball 3
Poppy, Giant Double, Scarlet 3
Polygonum, Ruby Gem 2-1/2
Malope, Red 2
Nasturtium, Tall, Improved Lucifer Cl.
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