THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
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e white sample in the beds, and the green by removal of the roots to frames. Forcing in beds may be accomplished by means of trenches filled with fermenting material or by hot-water p
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, Beans may be started in pots in the greenhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in precisely the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is convenient in cases w
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he rich crimson hue it imparts to any article of food requiring it. Frame Culture.—Where the demand for Beet exists the whole year through, early sowings in heat are indispensable. F
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me growers take them up with good balls of earth and plant them in a frame, or even pack them neatly in a cellar, and the heads finish fairly well, but not so well as undisturbed plan
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Red Intermediate answers admirably. Forcing.—Carrots are forced in frames on very gentle hot-beds. They cannot be well grown in houses, and they must be grown slowly to be palatable
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d as beyond the range of practice of any ordinary well-kept garden. Frame Cucumbers are the most in demand, and the easiest to grow. The very first point for the cultivator is to det
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portant point is to employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame ready for use, and when empt
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xurious table there should be added Basil, Chives, Pot and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel, Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens general
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temperature until mid-March, when they may be transferred to a cold frame to undergo progressive hardening in readiness for planting out at a favourable opportunity in April. There
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therefore we shall say nothing about growing Melons in winter. The Frame Culture may with advantage begin about the middle of March by the preparation of a good hot-bed. It is best
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ery layer, about three or four inches from the inside edge. A wooden frame will be requisite on the top to carry the glass lights. This structure makes a useful cool pit and a Mushroo
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ep the boxes near the glass. Towards the end of March remove to cold frames, keeping the lights rather close for a few days, but gradually giving more air until the lights can be take
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tre of each strip of turf, and cover with fine earth. By keeping the frame closed a more regular sprouting of the seed will be insured; but as soon as the plants rise, air must be giv
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some sample the ground must not only be good, but finely broken up. Frame Culture.—For the earliest crops it is advisable to make a semi-hot-bed, by removing a portion of the surface
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sual to grow them on a heap of discarded potting soil, where they can ramble without restraint. The growth is rapid, and there must be no stint of water in dry weather. In five or six
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n of sand, and the compost must be well firmed into the pots with the ramming stick. The best place to keep the plants is an open airy situation, easily accessible, where the pots ca
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s only forces a rank growth of foliage at the expense of the fruit. Frame culture is of some importance, because early Marrows are highly valued at good tables. For this business the
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Round Spinach, Cabbage, and Carrot. All these crops may be grown in frames with greater safety, and in many exposed places the warm border is almost an impossibility. Reed hurdles an
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pect of what remains undone, spare the necessity of reminders here. Frame Ground should be kept scrupulously clean and orderly. Many things will require watering now, but water must
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inches of mellow loam over the entire surface, upon which place the frames. To insure drainage, it is an excellent plan to lay common flake hurdles on the top of the heap before addi
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o become coarse. Broccoli to be sown for succession. Plant out from frames and forward seed-beds at every opportunity. About the middle of the month sow for cutting in May and June o
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asses may be made from mid-July to mid-September, the dwarfs in cold frames and the climbers on narrow borders in any house that can be spared for the purpose. Broccoli to be planted
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uce.—Continue to plant as before advised, and make a final sowing in frames not later than the middle of the month. Parsnips may be dug all the winter as wanted. Although a slight fr
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res have the opposite effect to the nitrogenous fertilisers, checking rampant growth and encouraging the early formation of flowers, fruit, and seeds. They are comparatively inexpensi
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ortion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame
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be sown during August or September in pots or pans placed in a cool frame, the seedlings being pricked off into other pots as soon as they have attained a suitable size. As colder we
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el the top, and cover with four or five inches of rich soil. Place a frame upon it with the light a trifle open. When the thermometer indicates 60°, draw drills at six inches apart; s
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to the roots as a skilful hand can make them carry. Place them in a frame, or in the sheltered part of a greenhouse, quite free from dripping water. Always give air on suitable days,
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are not to cover the hearts of the plants. Place the pots in a close frame; attend to shading, and sprinkle with soft water both morning and evening until well established. In the sec
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lia is a tender plant, it is easily managed in a greenhouse, or in a frame resting on a hot-bed. The seed may be sown as early as January, but unless sufficient space is at command to
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ee in each 48-pot and when established grow on during winter in cold frames, giving air daily except in frosty weather, when the frames must remain closed and can be protected with wh
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n. Lobelias make elegant pot plants, yet, with the exception of the _ramosa_ varieties which are excellent for the purpose, they cannot be grown satisfactorily in pots. The difficult
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odating in their growth, and may be trained into various forms. The pyramid and fan-shape are most common, and the least objectionable. We confess, however, to a feeling of antipathy
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render the mixture porous. For two or three days keep the boxes in a frame, which must remain closed and be shaded from sunshine until the seedlings are established, but remove the sh
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o commence the preparation of the ground in autumn. Trenching is of paramount importance, for the roots of the Sweet Pea require a considerable depth of good soil in which to ramify f
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e inch in height can be potted off separately. Place them in a close frame, shade from sunshine, and when well established, gradually give air and harden off. It will not be safe to t
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aken to fill the glasses as lightly as possible with the compost; if crammed in tightly the root growth is liable to lift the bulbs out of position. ACHIMENES Showy stove bulbs rema
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ly there is no Cape bulb which can be grown with greater ease in the frame or cool greenhouse. One characteristic is very marked, and it is the disproportion between the small bulb an
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h. In October remove the covering, and transfer the pots to a pit or frame, or they may be placed under the greenhouse stage for a time, provided they will not be in the way of drippi
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e for naturalising in clumps or masses in the border. OXALIS These frame plants are suitable for the cool greenhouse or for forcing, and they are adapted also for the open border in
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e will answer for them, and some gardeners produce fair specimens in frames over hot-beds. The bulbs will lie dormant for a considerable time, so that it is easy to have a succession
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der of the work of growing Anemones. Aquilegia sown this month in a frame will produce plants which may flower later in the year, provided the season is favourable; but they will cer
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them, and place in a cool frame until established. Plenty of space, no more water than is absolutely essential, and progressive ventilation,
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ere is, however, no danger at all in sowing in pans placed in a cool frame. The plants should be potted immediately they are large enough to handle. The flowering from this sowing wil
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heap of ashes. But, as a rule, it will be necessary to store them in frames until spring; and they may be finer in the second than in the first season. Cineraria.—To insure a success
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and place them in a sheltered part of the greenhouse or in a shaded frame, allowing free access of air on the leeward side. If aphis has to be dealt with—and it is very partial to Ca
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les. When the tops begin to grow, remove the pots to a greenhouse or frame, and subdue the light for a brief period until the natural colour is gained. Thence transfer to the forcing-
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this flower is to pot the bulbs now or in December, and keep them in frames until April, when they may be transferred to the open ground. A dry soil and a sunny spot should be found f
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aught, and they may be completely eradicated by perseverance. When a frame or pit is infested, they can be destroyed wholesale by pouring boiling water down next the brickwork or the
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of autumn is caused by the brown _Puccinia violæ_, allied to the _P. graminis_ of Corn and to the _P. malvacearum_ of Hollyhocks and various malvaceous plants. The _Puccinia_ of Viole
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—spraying, 440 —Wart Disease of, 440 Pot Marigold, 67, 278 —Marjoram, 67 Pots, cleaning, 357 —sizes of, 357 Potting soil, 355 Primrose, 289, 370, 394 —Cape, 302 —Chinese, 2
and the Potatoes, because these are the most exhaustive crops we grow.
In a ton of Potatoes there are about twelve pounds of potash, four
pounds of sulphuric acid, four pounds of phosphoric acid, and one pound
of magnesia. We may replace these substances by abundant manuring, and
we are bound to say that the best rotation will not obviate the
necessity for manuring; but even then it is well to crop the plot with
Peas, Spinach, Lettuce, and other plants that occupy it for a
comparatively brief space of time, and necessitate much digging and
stirring; for these mechanical agencies combine with the manure in
preparing the plot to grow Potatoes again much better than if the land
were kept to this crop only from year to year. If we could mark out a
plot of ground into four parts, we should devote one plot to permanent
crops—such as Asparagus, Sea Kale, and Rhubarb—and on the other three
keep the crops revolving in some such order as this: No. 1, Potatoes,
Celery, Leek, Carrot, Parsnip, Beet, &c. No. 2, Peas, Beans, Onions,
Summer Spinach, &c., followed by Turnips for winter use, Cabbage for
spring use, and Winter Spinach. No. 3, Brassicas, including Broccoli,
Brussels Sprouts, Kale, &c. In the following year the original No. 1
would be cropped as No. 2, and No. 2 as No. 3. In the third season
corresponding changes would be made, constituting a three-course
system. The cultivator must use discretion in cropping vacant ground.
As an example it will be obvious that land cleared of Early Potatoes
will be very suitable for planting Strawberries. Another point is worth
attention: Peas sown on the lines where Celery has been grown will
thrive without any preparation beyond levelling the ground and drawing
the necessary drills. This is a West of England custom, and it answers
exceedingly well.
THE CHEMISTRY OF GARDEN CROPS
A Consideration of the chemistry of the crops that engage attention in
this country will afford an explanation of one great difference between
farming and gardening. And this difference should be kept in mind by
all classes of cultivators as the basis of operations in tillage,
cropping, and the order and character of rotations. The first thing to
discover in the cropping of a farm is the kind of vegetation for which
the land is best adapted to insure, in a run of seasons, fairly
profitable results. If the soil is unfit for cereals, then it is sheer
folly to sow any more corn than may be needful for convenience, as, for
example, to supply straw for thatching and litter, and oats for horses,
to save cost of carriage, &c. On large farms that are far removed from
markets it is often necessary to risk a few crops that the land is ill
fitted for, in order to satisfy the requirements of the homestead, and
to save the outlay of money and the inconvenience of hauling from
distant markets. But everywhere the cropping must be adapted to the
soil and the climate as nearly as possible, both to simplify operations
and enlarge to the utmost the chances of success. In the cropping of a
garden this plain procedure cannot be followed. We are compelled
certainly to consider what the soil and climate will especially favour
amongst garden crops, but, notwithstanding this, the gardener must grow
whatever the household requires. He may have to grow Peas on a hot
shallow sand; and Potatoes and Carrots on a cold clay; and Asparagus on
a shallow bed of pebbles and potsherds. To the gardener the chemistry
of crops is a matter of great importance, because he cannot restrict
his operations to such crops as the land is particularly adapted for,
but must endeavour to make the land capable of carrying more or less of
all the vegetables and fruits that find a place in the catalogue of
domestic wants. That he must fail at certain points is inevitable;
nevertheless his aim will be, and must be, of a somewhat universal
kind, and a clear idea of the relations of plants to the soil in which
they grow will be of constant and incalculable value to him.
We are bound to say at the outset that a complete essay on the
chemistry of vegetation is not our purpose. We are anxious to convey
some useful information, and to kindle sufficient interest to induce
those who have hitherto given but slight attention to this question to
inquire further, with a view to get far beyond the point at which we
shall have to quit the subject.
Plants consist of two classes of constituents—the Inorganic, which may
be called the foundation; and the Organic, which may be considered the
superstructure. With the former of these we are principally concerned
here. A plant must derive from the soil certain proportions of silica,
lime, sulphur, phosphates, alkalies, and other mineral constituents, or
it cannot exist at all; but, given these, the manufacture of fibre,
starch, gum, sugar, and other organic products depends on the action of
light, heat, atmospheric air, and moisture, for the organic products
have to be created by chemical (or vital) action within the structure,
or, as we sometimes say, the tissues of the plant itself. To a very
great extent the agencies that conduce to the elaboration of organic
products are beyond our control (though not entirely so), whereas we
can directly, and to a considerable degree, provide the plant with the
minerals it more particularly requires; first, by choosing the ground
for it, and next by tilling and manuring in a suitable manner. A clay
soil, in which, in addition to the predominating alumina, there is a
fair proportion of lime, may be regarded as the most fertile for all
purposes; but we have few such in Britain, our clays being mostly of an
obdurate texture, retentive of moisture, and requiring much
cultivation, and containing, moreover, salts of iron in proportions and
forms almost poisonous to plants. But there are profound resources in
most clays, so that if it is difficult to tame them, it is also
difficult to exhaust them. Hence a clay that has been well cultivated
through several generations will generally produce a fair return for
whatever crop may be put upon it. Limestone soils are usually very
porous and deficient of clay, and therefore have no sustaining power.
Many of our great tracts of mountain limestone are mere sheep-walks,
and would be comparatively worthless except for the lime that may be
obtained by burning. On the other hand, chalk, which is a more recent
form of carbonate of lime, is often highly productive, more especially
where, through long cultivation, it has been much broken up, and has
become loamy through accumulation of humus. Between the oldest
limestone and the latest chalk there are many intermediate kinds of
calcareous soils, and they are mostly good, owing to their richness in
phosphates, the products of the marine organisms of which these rocks
in great part, and in some cases wholly, consist. For the growth of
cereals these calcareous soils need a certain proportion of silica, and
where they have this we see some of the finest crops of Wheat,
Trifolium, Peas and Beans in these islands. If we could mix some of our
obdurate clays with our barren limestones, the two comparatively
worthless staples would probably prove remarkably fertile. Although
this is impossible, a consideration of the chemistry of the imaginary
mixture may be useful, more especially to the gardener, who can in a
small way accomplish many things that are impracticable on a great
scale. Sandy soils are characterised by excess of silica, and
deficiency of alumina, phosphates and potash. Here the mechanical
texture is as serious a matter as it is in the case of clay. The sand
is too loose as the clay is too pasty, and it may be that we have to
prevent the estate from being blown away. It is especially worthy of
observation, however, that sandy soils are the most readily amenable of
any to the operation of tillage. If we cannot take much out of them, we
can put any amount into them, and it is always necessary to calculate
where the process of enrichment is to stop. It is not less worthy of
observation that sandy soils can be rendered capable of producing
almost every kind of crop, save cereals and pulse, and even these can
be secured where there is some basis of peat or loam or clay with the
sand. The parks and gardens of Paris, Versailles, and Haarlem are on
deep sands that drift before the wind when left exposed for any length
of time with no crop upon them; and not only do we see the finest of
Potatoes and the most nutritious of herbage produced on these soils,
but good Cauliflowers, Peas, Beans, Onions, fruits, and big trees of
sound timber.
Garden soils usually consist of loam of some kind, the consequence of
long cultivation. Natural loams are the result of the decay and
admixture of various earths, and they are mostly of a mellow texture,
easily worked and highly productive. They are, as a rule, the best of
all soils, and their goodness is in part due to the fact that they
contain a little of everything, with no great predominance of any one
particular earth. Cultivation also produces loam. On a clay land we
find a top crust of clayey loam, and on a lime or chalk land a top
crust of calcareous loam. Where cultivation has been long pursued the
staple is broken and manures are put on, and the roots of plants assist
in disintegration and decomposition. Thus there is accumulation of
humus and a decomposition of the rock proceeding together, and a loam
of some sort is the result. Hence the necessity of caution in respect
of deep trenching, for if we bury the top soil and put in its place a
crude material that has not before seen daylight, we may lose ten years
in profitable cropping, because we must now begin to tame a savage soil
that we have been at great pains to bring up, to cover a stratum of a
good material prepared for us by the combined operations of Nature and
Art during, perhaps, several centuries. But deep and good garden soils
may be safely trenched and freely knocked about, because not only does
the process favour the deep rooting of the plants, but it favours also
that disintegration which is one of the causes of fertility. Every
pebble is capable of imparting to the soil a solution—infinitesimal,
perhaps, but not the less real—of silica, or lime, or potash, or
phosphates, or perhaps of all these; but it must be exposed to light
and air and moisture to enable it to part with a portion of its
substance, and thus it is that mechanical tillage is of the first
importance in all agricultural and horticultural operations.
The principal inorganic or mineral constituents of plants are potash,
soda, lime, iron, phosphorus, sulphur, chlorine, and silica. Clays and
loams are generally rich in potash, sulphur, and phosphates, but
deficient in soluble silica and lime. Limestone and chalk are usually
rich in lime and phosphates, but deficient in humus, silica, sulphur,
and alkalies. Sandy soils are rich in silica, but are generally poor in
respect of phosphates and alkalies. Therefore, on a clay or loam,
farmyard manure is invaluable, because it contains ingredients that all
crops appreciate, and also because it is helpful in breaking up the
texture of the soil. The occasional application of lime also is
important for its almost magical effect on garden soil that has been
liberally manured and heavily cropped for a long term of years.
Calcareous soils are greatly benefited by a free application to them of
manure from the stable and cow-byre; but as a rule it would be like
carrying coals to Newcastle to dress these soils with lime. Clay may be
put on with advantage; and nothing benefits a hot chalky soil more than
a good dose of mud from ponds and ditches, which supplies at once
humus, alumina, and silicates, and gives ‘staple’ to the soil, while
preventing it also from ‘burning.’ In the manuring of sandy soils great
care is requisite, because of their absorbing power. In the
bulb-growing districts of Holland, manure from cowsheds is worth an
enormous price for digging into loose sand for a crop of Potatoes, to
be followed by bulbs. Sandy soils are generally deficient in phosphates
and alkalies; hence it will on such soils be frequently found that
kainit (a crude form of potash) and superphosphate of lime will
conjointly produce the best results, more especially in raising
Potatoes, Onions, and Carrots, which are particularly well adapted for
sandy soils. Probably one of the best fertilisers is genuine farmyard
manure from stall-fed cattle, for it contains phosphates, alkalies, and
silicates in available forms. For similar reasons Peruvian Guano is
often useful on such soils. Artificial manure should be selected with a
view to correct the deficiencies of the soil, and to satisfy the
requirements of the crops to be grown on it.
While we have thus dealt principally with the Inorganic or mineral
constituents of plants, and the way in which the deficiencies of the
soil in respect of any of them may be supplied by artificial
applications, we must not ignore the other class of constituents, the
Organic. These are supplied almost entirely from the atmosphere itself,
though, to a limited extent, the presence in the soil of humus or
vegetable matter contributes also. Yet this latter, as seen in the case
of land heavily dressed with farmyard or stable manure, vegetable
refuse, &c., exercises important functions in other directions. Not
only are mineral constituents, in forms available for assimilation,
supplied, but soils so treated derive peculiar advantages as regards
their mechanical state and improved physical conditions, chiefly in
respect of retention of moisture, warmth, &c. Thus, sandy soils, which
are very apt, through poverty in humus, to lose their moisture readily
and to ‘burn,’ are rendered more retentive of moisture and fertilising
constituents by the use of farmyard manure, &c., and have more ‘staple’
or substance given to them, while heavy, tenacious clays are opened
out, lightened, and rendered more amenable to the influences of
drainage, aeration, &c., and so become less cold and inactive.
For the present purpose the principal garden crops may be grouped in
two classes, in accordance with their main characteristics and the
predominance of certain of their mineral elements. The figures given on
the following page show the average percentage proportions of the
several minerals in the ashes of the different plants.
In Class I. Phosphates and Potash predominate. This class consists of
the less succulent plants, and includes the following: The Pea:
containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, thirty-six; potash,
forty. Bean: phosphates, thirty; potash, forty-four. Potato (tubers
only): phosphates, nineteen; potash, fifty-nine; soda, two; lime, two;
sulphuric acid, six. Parsnip: phosphates, eighteen; potash, thirty-six;
lime, eleven; salt, five. Carrot: phosphates, twelve; potash,
thirty-six; soda, thirteen; sulphuric acid, six. Jerusalem Artichoke:
phosphates, sixteen; potash, sixty-five.
In Class II. Sulphur, Lime and Soda Salts are predominant. This class
consists of the more succulent plants, and includes the following:
Cabbage: containing, in 100 parts of the ashes, phosphates, sixteen;
potash, forty-eight; soda, four; lime, fifteen; sulphuric acid, eight.
Turnip: phosphates, thirteen; potash, thirty-nine; soda, five; lime,
ten; sulphuric acid, fourteen. Beet: phosphates, fourteen; potash,
forty-nine; soda, nineteen; lime, six; sulphuric acid, five.
As a matter of course, Lentils and other kinds of pulse agree more or
less with Peas and Beans in the predominance of phosphates and potash.
So, again, all the Brassicas, whether Kales, Cauliflower, or whatever
else, agree nearly with the Cabbage in the prominent presence of lime
and sulphur; ingredients which fully account for the offensive odour of
these vegetables when in a state of decay. Fruits as a rule are highly
charged with alkalies, and are rarely deficient in phosphates;
moreover, stone-fruits require lime, for they have to make bone as well
as flesh when they produce a crop. As regards the alkalies, plants
appear capable of substituting soda for potash under some
circumstances, but it would not be prudent for the cultivator to assume
that the cheaper alkali might take the place of the more costly one as
a mineral agent, for Nature is stern and constant in her ways, and it
can hardly be supposed that a plant in which potash normally
predominates can attain to perfection in a soil deficient in potash,
however well supplied it may be with soda. The cheaper alkali in
combination as salt (chloride of sodium) may, however, be usually
employed in aid of quick-growing green crops; and more or less with
tap-roots and Brassicas. Salt, too, is very useful in a dry season by
reason of its power of attracting and retaining moisture. As regards
Potatoes, it is worthy of observation that they contain but a trace of
silica, and yet they generally thrive on sand, and in many instances
crops grown on sand are free from disease and of high quality, although
the weight may not be great. The mechanical texture of the soil has
much to do with this; and when that is aided by a supply of potash and
phosphates, whether from farmyard manure or artificials, sandy soils
become highly productive of Potatoes of the very finest quality. On the
other hand, Potatoes also grow well on limestone and chalk, and yet
there is but little lime in them. Here, again, mechanical texture
explains the case in part, and it is further explained by the
sufficiency of potash and phosphates, as also of magnesia, which enters
in a special manner into the mineral constitution of this root.
Thus far we have not even mentioned nitrogen, or its common form of
salts of ammonia; nor have we mentioned carbon, or its very familiar
form of carbonic acid. These are important elements of plant growth;
and they account for the efficacy of manures derived directly from the
animal kingdom, as, for example, the droppings of animals, including
guano, which consisted originally of the droppings of sea-birds. Some
of the nitrogen in these substances, however, is of an evanescent
character, and rapidly flies away in the form of carbonate of ammonia;
hence, a heap of farmyard manure, left for several years, loses much of
its value as manure, and guano should be kept in bulk as long as
possible, and protected from the atmosphere, or its ammonia will
largely disappear. One difficulty experienced by chemists and others in
preparing artificial manures is that of ‘fixing’ the needful ammonia,
so that it may be kept from being dissipated in the atmosphere, and at
the same time be always in a state in which it can be appropriated by
the plant. In all good manures, however, there is a certain proportion
of it in combination, and in many instances the percentage of nitrogen
is made the test of the value of a manure.
The importance of humus—the black earthy substance resulting from the
decay of vegetation—in a soil is that it contains in an assimilable
form many of the ingredients essential to plant life. Humus when it
decomposes gives off carbonic acid, which breaks up the mineral
substances in the soil and renders them available as plant food. When
vegetable refuse is burned, the nitrogen—one of the costliest
constituents—is dissipated and lost. But by burying the refuse the soil
gets back a proportion of the organic nitrogen it surrendered and
something over in the way of soluble phosphatic and potassic salts; and
as this organic nitrogen assumes ultimately the form of nitric acid, it
can be assimilated by the growing plant, to the great benefit of
whatever crop may occupy the ground.
The practical conclusion is, that in the treatment of the soil a
skilful gardener will endeavour to promote its fertility by affording
the natural influences of rain, frost and sun full opportunity of
liberating the constituents that are locked up in the staple; by
restoring in the form of refuse as much as possible of what the soil
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