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THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS TEXT

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Page 2 6 matches e white sample in the beds, and the green by removal of the roots to frames. Forcing in beds may be accomplished by means of trenches filled with fermenting material or by hot-water p Page 3 4 matches , Beans may be started in pots in the greenhouse, or on turf sods in frames for planting out, in precisely the same way as Peas for early crops. This practice is convenient in cases w Page 4 3 matches he rich crimson hue it imparts to any article of food requiring it. Frame Culture.—Where the demand for Beet exists the whole year through, early sowings in heat are indispensable. F Page 5 8 matches me growers take them up with good balls of earth and plant them in a frame, or even pack them neatly in a cellar, and the heads finish fairly well, but not so well as undisturbed plan Page 6 15 matches Red Intermediate answers admirably. Forcing.—Carrots are forced in frames on very gentle hot-beds. They cannot be well grown in houses, and they must be grown slowly to be palatable Page 7 2 matches d as beyond the range of practice of any ordinary well-kept garden. Frame Cucumbers are the most in demand, and the easiest to grow. The very first point for the cultivator is to det Page 8 7 matches portant point is to employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame ready for use, and when empt Page 9 7 matches xurious table there should be added Basil, Chives, Pot and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel, Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens general Page 10 11 matches temperature until mid-March, when they may be transferred to a cold frame to undergo progressive hardening in readiness for planting out at a favourable opportunity in April. There Page 11 9 matches therefore we shall say nothing about growing Melons in winter. The Frame Culture may with advantage begin about the middle of March by the preparation of a good hot-bed. It is best Page 12 2 matches ery layer, about three or four inches from the inside edge. A wooden frame will be requisite on the top to carry the glass lights. This structure makes a useful cool pit and a Mushroo Page 13 4 matches ep the boxes near the glass. Towards the end of March remove to cold frames, keeping the lights rather close for a few days, but gradually giving more air until the lights can be take Page 14 5 matches tre of each strip of turf, and cover with fine earth. By keeping the frame closed a more regular sprouting of the seed will be insured; but as soon as the plants rise, air must be giv Page 16 8 matches some sample the ground must not only be good, but finely broken up. Frame Culture.—For the earliest crops it is advisable to make a semi-hot-bed, by removing a portion of the surface Page 17 2 matches sual to grow them on a heap of discarded potting soil, where they can ramble without restraint. The growth is rapid, and there must be no stint of water in dry weather. In five or six Page 18 5 matches n of sand, and the compost must be well firmed into the pots with the ramming stick. The best place to keep the plants is an open airy situation, easily accessible, where the pots ca Page 19 6 matches s only forces a rank growth of foliage at the expense of the fruit. Frame culture is of some importance, because early Marrows are highly valued at good tables. For this business the Page 20 11 matches Round Spinach, Cabbage, and Carrot. All these crops may be grown in frames with greater safety, and in many exposed places the warm border is almost an impossibility. Reed hurdles an Page 21 20 matches pect of what remains undone, spare the necessity of reminders here. Frame Ground should be kept scrupulously clean and orderly. Many things will require watering now, but water must Page 22 11 matches inches of mellow loam over the entire surface, upon which place the frames. To insure drainage, it is an excellent plan to lay common flake hurdles on the top of the heap before addi Page 23 5 matches o become coarse. Broccoli to be sown for succession. Plant out from frames and forward seed-beds at every opportunity. About the middle of the month sow for cutting in May and June o Page 24 7 matches asses may be made from mid-July to mid-September, the dwarfs in cold frames and the climbers on narrow borders in any house that can be spared for the purpose. Broccoli to be planted Page 25 5 matches uce.—Continue to plant as before advised, and make a final sowing in frames not later than the middle of the month. Parsnips may be dug all the winter as wanted. Although a slight fr Page 27 1 match res have the opposite effect to the nitrogenous fertilisers, checking rampant growth and encouraging the early formation of flowers, fruit, and seeds. They are comparatively inexpensi Page 28 7 matches ortion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame Page 29 3 matches be sown during August or September in pots or pans placed in a cool frame, the seedlings being pricked off into other pots as soon as they have attained a suitable size. As colder we Page 30 6 matches el the top, and cover with four or five inches of rich soil. Place a frame upon it with the light a trifle open. When the thermometer indicates 60°, draw drills at six inches apart; s Page 31 7 matches to the roots as a skilful hand can make them carry. Place them in a frame, or in the sheltered part of a greenhouse, quite free from dripping water. Always give air on suitable days, Page 32 2 matches are not to cover the hearts of the plants. Place the pots in a close frame; attend to shading, and sprinkle with soft water both morning and evening until well established. In the sec Page 33 4 matches lia is a tender plant, it is easily managed in a greenhouse, or in a frame resting on a hot-bed. The seed may be sown as early as January, but unless sufficient space is at command to Page 34 9 matches ee in each 48-pot and when established grow on during winter in cold frames, giving air daily except in frosty weather, when the frames must remain closed and can be protected with wh Page 35 5 matches n. Lobelias make elegant pot plants, yet, with the exception of the _ramosa_ varieties which are excellent for the purpose, they cannot be grown satisfactorily in pots. The difficult Page 36 10 matches odating in their growth, and may be trained into various forms. The pyramid and fan-shape are most common, and the least objectionable. We confess, however, to a feeling of antipathy Page 37 6 matches render the mixture porous. For two or three days keep the boxes in a frame, which must remain closed and be shaded from sunshine until the seedlings are established, but remove the sh Page 38 8 matches o commence the preparation of the ground in autumn. Trenching is of paramount importance, for the roots of the Sweet Pea require a considerable depth of good soil in which to ramify f Page 39 1 match e inch in height can be potted off separately. Place them in a close frame, shade from sunshine, and when well established, gradually give air and harden off. It will not be safe to t Page 40 7 matches aken to fill the glasses as lightly as possible with the compost; if crammed in tightly the root growth is liable to lift the bulbs out of position. ACHIMENES Showy stove bulbs rema Page 41 5 matches ly there is no Cape bulb which can be grown with greater ease in the frame or cool greenhouse. One characteristic is very marked, and it is the disproportion between the small bulb an Page 42 5 matches h. In October remove the covering, and transfer the pots to a pit or frame, or they may be placed under the greenhouse stage for a time, provided they will not be in the way of drippi Page 43 2 matches e for naturalising in clumps or masses in the border. OXALIS These frame plants are suitable for the cool greenhouse or for forcing, and they are adapted also for the open border in Page 44 1 match e will answer for them, and some gardeners produce fair specimens in frames over hot-beds. The bulbs will lie dormant for a considerable time, so that it is easy to have a succession Page 45 3 matches der of the work of growing Anemones. Aquilegia sown this month in a frame will produce plants which may flower later in the year, provided the season is favourable; but they will cer Page 46 5 matches them, and place in a cool frame until established. Plenty of space, no more water than is absolutely essential, and progressive ventilation, Page 47 7 matches ere is, however, no danger at all in sowing in pans placed in a cool frame. The plants should be potted immediately they are large enough to handle. The flowering from this sowing wil Page 48 5 matches heap of ashes. But, as a rule, it will be necessary to store them in frames until spring; and they may be finer in the second than in the first season. Cineraria.—To insure a success Page 49 5 matches and place them in a sheltered part of the greenhouse or in a shaded frame, allowing free access of air on the leeward side. If aphis has to be dealt with—and it is very partial to Ca Page 50 9 matches les. When the tops begin to grow, remove the pots to a greenhouse or frame, and subdue the light for a brief period until the natural colour is gained. Thence transfer to the forcing- Page 51 3 matches this flower is to pot the bulbs now or in December, and keep them in frames until April, when they may be transferred to the open ground. A dry soil and a sunny spot should be found f Page 53 3 matches aught, and they may be completely eradicated by perseverance. When a frame or pit is infested, they can be destroyed wholesale by pouring boiling water down next the brickwork or the Page 55 4 matches of autumn is caused by the brown _Puccinia violæ_, allied to the _P. graminis_ of Corn and to the _P. malvacearum_ of Hollyhocks and various malvaceous plants. The _Puccinia_ of Viole Page 56 4 matches —spraying, 440 —Wart Disease of, 440 Pot Marigold, 67, 278 —Marjoram, 67 Pots, cleaning, 357 —sizes of, 357 Potting soil, 355 Primrose, 289, 370, 394 —Cape, 302 —Chinese, 2
of producing some of the most elegant garden flowers in one season from 19994 characters on this page
of producing some of the most elegant garden flowers in one season from seed alone. The time and the method of sowing flower seeds must in each case be regulated by considerations as to their nature. Seeds of tender plants are usually sown in pots or pans and placed on a moderate hot-bed or in a propagating house early in spring, and in this case the plants have greenhouse cultivation until the time arrives for hardening them off preparatory to final planting. But seeds of many hardy flowers may be treated in the same way, when a long season of growth is necessary for their development. Thus Phloxes, Verbenas, and Hollyhocks, plants that differ immensely in habit and constitution, may all be sown in February, and put side by side in the same warm pit or vinery, or even in the warmest corner of any greenhouse, and the very same treatment will suit them equally well. The soil should be principally loam and sand, with a little old thoroughly well-rotted manure from a hot-bed or compost heap; and light, air, and moisture must be regulated with a view to insure a free and vigorous growth from the first, with the least possible amount of artificial heat. In some cases, however, the sowing should be deferred to March or April, and the result will be far more satisfactory than the growth made under the stimulus of artificial heat earlier in the season. But in every case the plants must have sufficient time; for although the rapid system has been developed, the constitution of the plants remains unchanged, and those which have heretofore been classed as biennials and perennials need a long season when treated as annuals. A considerable proportion of the finest flowers may be raised from seed by the aid of a frame and a little careful management. We will take as an example a very restricted garden. Here is a small frame and some packets of seed, and the month of February or March has arrived. The pans and pots are made ready with sweet sandy compost, and the seeds are sown and labelled, and the pans and pots are packed together in the frame on a bed of clean coal ashes, or some slates, or tiles, or bricks laid on the soil, to promote warmth and cleanliness and to prevent the intrusion of worms among the seeds. By simple management almost as quick a growth of seeds can be insured in this frame as with the aid of a hot-bed, and the secret consists in careful storage of the heat of the sun. Lay over the seed-pans sheets of glass to prevent evaporation, and let the sun shine full upon them. Be careful as to moisture: they must never be wet, never dry, and the water must not be slopped about carelessly. It is a good rule to immerse the pots or pans in a vessel containing soft water, slightly tepid. When the seedlings begin to appear, give a little air and lay sheets of paper tenderly over them during the hour or two at midday when the sun may be shining brightly. But keep them from the first as ‘hard’ as possible with plenty of light and air, always taking care that they are neither roasted, nor blown away by the cruel east wind, nor nipped at night by a killing frost. A few old mats or light loppings of trees laid over the frame from sundown to sunrise will be sufficient protection at those trying times; and when spring frosts are making havoc with the tender sprouting leaf and bloom in every part of the garden those little things will be safe under their glass cover, and slight experience will show that a common frame may become a miniature hot-house in the hands of one who has learned to make failure the stepping-stone to success. We must not omit to mention that the owner of such a garden, or, indeed, of any garden, will be prudent to take advantage of the first fine weather to sow in the open ground whatever flower or vegetable seeds should be sown at that season. The frame garden can be reserved, if needful, for wet weather, because it is of the utmost importance to sow a good breadth of seeds in the open ground as early as possible in the month of March. Turning from this small example to the great garden, it will be obvious that to those who always have heavy work on hand the advantages of this transference, of labour from the old system to the new are immense. Both to employers and gardeners the advantages are of importance; the propagation of bedders by cuttings, and of florists’ flowers by suckers and divisions and layers and pipings, will not, of course, be completely abolished; but for all ordinary purposes the ends in view may be accomplished more simply, more expeditiously, and more cheaply than heretofore. The pits hitherto appropriated to bedders, and the like, may to a great extent be liberated, and there will be no difficulty in finding for them more profitable occupants. While Mushrooms and early Potatoes and winter salads are in request, it will be a gain to many a garden to have reduced the summer display of flowers to a simple system of seed-sowing, at an expense that may be described as merely nominal. Before dealing specifically with certain flowers, it may be advisable to say a few words generally concerning the culture of Annuals—Hardy, Half-hardy, and Tender—and also on hardy Biennials and Perennials. Annuals.—Although the most popular kinds of annuals are largely employed in the embellishment of flower gardens, they are adapted for many uses to which they may with advantage be more frequently applied. A few misconceptions prevail as to the relative merits of this class of plants. By some they are regarded as ‘weedy’ and ‘short-lived.’ Their very cheapness, and the relatively small amount of skill required in their cultivation, tend in some degree to detract from their value in public estimation. We will not be so rash as to say that a more extended use of annuals would render unnecessary the cultivation of what are especially known as ‘bedding plants’; but there is something to be said on behalf of annuals that may be worth the consideration of all who are interested in the development of freshness, variety, and richness of colour in the flower garden. In the first place, these plants come into flower within a comparatively short period of time from the sowing of the seed, and it is a matter of considerable importance that a large proportion of the best continue beautiful until the very close of the season. Sometimes in the autumn Geraniums become literally washed out, while Tom Thumb Nasturtiums may be ablaze with colour, and continue so when the Geraniums are housed for the winter. A large number of showy and long-lasting annuals are adapted for employment in bedding, and by a little management those that do not last the season out may be replaced by others for succession; thus affording the advantage of increased variety, and making no demand for glass and fuel to keep them through the winter as do the ordinary bedders. We have had great and glorious sheets of Candytufts, snow-white, rich crimson, and bright carmine; and when they began to wane they were removed, and the ground planted with Asters, and very soon there was another display, so fresh and bright and various that no greenhouse bedders could surpass them. Great hungry banks, that would have swallowed many pounds’ worth of greenhouse plants to cover them, have been made delightfully gay at a very trifling cost by sowing upon them Tropæolums, Tom Thumb Nasturtiums, _Bartonia aurea_, the dwarf varieties of _Lupinus_, Virginian Stock, _Collinsia bicolor_, Convolvuluses, Candytufts, Eschscholtzias, Poppies, and Clarkias; and damp, half-shady borders have been delicately tessellated by means of Forget-me-nots, Venus’ Looking-glass, Pansies, the Rosy Oxalis, Nemophilas, Godetias, Silenes, Coreopsis, and Scabious. For the more important positions in the flower garden we have choice of many really sumptuous subjects, such as Stocks, Asters, Balsams, Drummond’s Phlox, Lobelias, the lovely new varieties of Antirrhinums, Dianthus, Portulacas, Zinnias, tall Stock-flowered Larkspurs, Nemesias, and many other flowers equally beautiful and lasting. We do not hope by these brief remarks to change the prevailing fashion—indeed, we have no particular wish that way—but we feel bound to observe that it is sufficient for the beauty of the garden that the greenhouse bedders should be confined to the parterre proper. It is waste of space and opportunity to place them in the borders everywhere, as is too commonly done. In sunny borders, annual and perennial herbaceous plants are far more appropriate. Some time since, while walking over a large garden, we left the rich colouring of the geometric beds to discover what should make the wondrous glow of crimson on a border far away; and to our surprise it proved to be a clump of the Indian Pink, which had been sown as an annual with other annuals, and was there shining in the midst of a constellation of the loveliest flowers of all forms and hues, the result simply of sowing a few packets of seed. No one can despise the Wallflower in the spring, and the heavenly-blue flowers of _Nemophila insignis_ in early summer will tempt many a one to walk in the garden who would care little for sheets of scarlet and yellow that in full sunshine make the eyes ache to look upon them. It must be remembered, too, that among annuals are found many most richly-scented flowers; others, like the everlastings and the grasses, are valuable to dry for winter use for employment in bouquets, and garlands in Christmas decorations; and the Sweet Peas, and _Tropæolum canariense,_ and climbing Convolvulus may be employed to cover arbours and trellises with the best effect possible, and may even be allowed to hang in festoons about the sunny parts of rockeries, or trail over the ground to make genuine bedding effects. Another important matter must have mention here, and we commend it to the consideration of gardeners who are severely taxed to secure extensive displays of flowers during the summer season. It is that a number of plants of highly ornamental character, usually treated as perennials, are really more effective, besides occasioning less labour to produce them, when cultivated as annuals. The Dianthus and its several splendid varieties do better as annuals than biennials. For all the ordinary purposes of display, Lobelias may be as well grown from seed as from cuttings, and in every garden will be found proof of the small amount of care they require; for we find stray, self-sown plants in pots of Geraniums and other places, and these, if left alone, become perfect bushes, and are a mass of flowers all the summer. Many annuals commonly reputed to be tender and usually raised in heat do very well indeed on a more rough and ready method. In proof of this, sow _Perilla nankinensis_ in the first week of May where it is required, and in the month of July you will probably be convinced that Perilla does not always need careful nursing in heated houses through the spring. Even the really tender Castor-oil Plant will thrive if sown in the open ground the first week in May. Having no check, as plants put out from pots must have, the growth will be regular and sturdy, and attain magnificent dimensions. Perhaps the most effective way of growing annuals is to arrange them in harmonious blendings or contrasts of colour. The wide choice of varieties available admits of an almost endless number of combinations, and the following tables, classified according to colour, will no doubt afford some serviceable suggestions, although these by no means exhaust the list. The height is indicated in feet and Climbers as ‘Cl.’ WHITE, AND CREAM SHADES. TALL. Chrysanthemum coronarium, Princess May 3 Chrysanthemum coronarium, Double white 3 Cornflower, White 3 Helichrysum, Silver Globe 3 Larkspur, Stock-flowered, White 3 Lavatera alba splendens 3 Poppy, Giant Double, White 3 Poppy Giant Single, White 3 Scabious, Snowball 3 Chrysanthemum carinatum album 2-1/2 Chrysanthemum Dunnetti, Double white 2-1/2 Nasturtium, Tall, Pearl Cl. MEDIUM. Clarkia elegans, Snowball 2 Lupinus Hartwegii, White 2 Malope, White 2 Poppy, White Swan 2 Shirley, Double White 2 Calendula pluvialis 1-1/2 Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum Clarkia, Double White 1-1/2 Gilia nivalis 1-1/2 Gypsophila elegans 1-1/2 Hawkweed, White 1-1/2 Hawkweed Silver 1-1/2 Jacobea, Double, White 1-1/2 Sweet Sultan, Giant White 1-1/2 Chrysanthemum coronarium, Dwarf double white 1-1/4 DWARF. Acroclinium, Single White 1 Candytuft, Improved White Spiral 1 Clarkia, Dwarf white 1 Clarkia Double dwarf white 1 Convolvulus minor, White 1 Eschscholtzia crocea alba 1 Godetia, Duchess of Albany 1 Layia elegans alba 1 Linaria, Snow-white 1 Nasturtium, Dwarf, Pearl 1 Platystemon californicus 1 Viscaria, Pure White 1 Alyssum, Sweet 3/4 Chrysanthemum inodorum plenis-simum, Bridal Robe 3/4 Collinsia candidissima 3/4 Godetia, Dwarf White 3/4 Swan River Daisy, White 3/4 Swan River Daisy Star White 3/4 Venus’ Looking-glass, White 3/4 Venus’ Navel-wort 3/4 Virginian Stock, White 3/4 Candytuft, Little Prince 1/2 Nemophila insignis alba 1/2 Alyssum minimum 1/3 Silene, Dwarf White 1/3 YELLOW AND ORANGE SHADES TALL. Sunflower, Giant Yellow 10 Sunflower Primrose Perfection 6 Sunflower Miniature 4 Sunflower Stella 4 Sunflower Primrose Stella 4 Chrysanthemum coronarium, Chrysanthemum Double yellow 3 Chrysanthemum, Golden Queen 3 Coreopsis tinctoria 3 Helichrysum, Golden Globe 3 Sunflower, Dwarf Double 3 Sunflower Single Dwarf 3 Chrysanthemum Dunnettii, Chrysanthemum Double Golden 2-1/2 Marigold, African 2-1/2 Nasturtium, Ivy-leaved Golden Gem Cl. Nasturtium, Tall, Yellow Cl. MEDIUM. Hibiscus africanus major 2 Bartonia aurea 1-1/2 Chrysanthemum, Star varieties 1-1/2 Coreopsis Drummondii 1-1/2 Coreopsis coronata 1-1/2 Erysimum, Orange Gem 1-1/2 Hawkweed, Yellow 1-1/2 Leptosyne Stillmani 1-1/2 Lupinus Menziesii 1-1/2 Sweet Sultan, Yellow 1-1/2 DWARF. Calendula, Orange King 1 Calendula Lemon Queen 1 Cheiranthus Allionii 1 Chrysanthemum coronarium, Chrysanthemum coronarium, Dwarf double yellow 1 Dimorphotheca aurantiaca 1 Eschscholtzia californica 1 Escholtzia, crocea 1 Escholtzia, crocea fl. pl. 1 Eschscholtzia, Mikado 3/4 Layia elegans 1 Lupinus, Dwarf yellow 1 Nasturtium, Dwarf, Cloth of Gold 1 Nasturtium, Dwarf, Yellow 1 Tagetes signata pumila 1 Tagetes Mandarin 3/4 Linaria, Golden Gem 3/4 Marigold, Miniature orange 3/4 Marigold Miniature orange 3/4 Eschscholtzia, Miniature Primrose 1/2 Limnanthes Douglasii 1/2 Sanvitalia procumbens, Single 1/2 Sanvitalia Double 1/2 Leptosiphon aureus 1/4 BLUE, MAUVE, AND PURPLE SHADES. TALL. Cornflower, Blue 3 Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Blue 3 Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Pale Mauve 3 Lupinus, Tall dark blue 3 Poppy, Giant Double, Mauve 3 Scabious, Mauve 3 MEDIUM. Godetia, Double Mauve 2 Lupinus Hartwegii, Azure Blue 2 Poppy, Mauve Queen 2 Sweet Sultan, Purple 2 Xeranthemum superbissimum 2 Xeranthemum imperiale 2 Anchusa, Annual Blue 1-1/2 Gilia capitata 1-1/2 Gilia tricolour 1-1/2 Jacobea, Double, Purple 1-1/2 Nigella, Miss Jekyll 1-1/2 Phacelia tanacetifolia 1-1/2 Salvia, Blue Beard 1-1/2 Sweet Sultan, Giant Delicate Mauve 1-1/2 Sweet Sultan, Giant Mauve 1-1/2 DWARF. Asperula azurea setosa 1 Candytuft, Lilac 1 Convolvulus minor, Dark blue 1 Convolvulus Sky-blue 1 Cornflower, King of Blue Bottles 1 Eutoca viscida 1 Linaria, Mauve 1 Lupinus, Dwarf rich blue 1 Mathiola bicornis 1 Phacelia congesta 1 Viscaria, Bright Blue 1 Whitlavia gloxinioides 1 Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf blue 3/4 Leptosiphon androsaceus 3/4 Nigella, Double dwarf 3/4 Phacelia campanularia 3/4 Swan River Daisy, Blue 3/4 Swan River Daisy, Star Blue 3/4 Campanula attica 1/2 Nemophila insignis 1/2 PINK AND ROSE SHADES TALL. Cornflower, Pink 3 Larkspur, Stock-flowered, Rosy Scarlet 3 Lavatera rosea splendens 3 Lupinus mutabilis, Cream and Pink 3 Poppy, Giant Double, Chamois-rose 3 Scabious, Pink 3 Nasturtium, Salmon Queen Cl. Nasturtium, Rosy Queen Cl. MEDIUM. Clarkia elegans, Double Salmon 2 Clarkia elegans, Double Delicate Pink 2 Godetia, Double Rose 2 Jacobea, Single, Bright Rose 2 Poppy, Pink Gem 2 Poppy, Cardinal, Salmon-pink 2 Poppy, Shirley, Single Rose-pink 2 Poppy, Shirley, Double Pink 2 Saponaria Vaccaria, Pink 2 Clarkia, Double Rose 1-1/2 Hawkweed, Pink 1-1/2 Jacobea, Double, Rose 1-1/2 Silene Armeria, Rose 1-1/2 Statice Suworowi 1-1/4 DWARF. Acroclinium, Double rose 1 Acrolinium, Single rose 1 Convolvulus minor, Pink 1 Eschscholtzia, Frilled Pink 1 Escholtzia, Rosy Queen 1 Escholtzia, Rose cardinal 1 Gypsophila elegans, Delicate pink 1 Lupinus, Dwarf delicate pink 1 Nasturtium, Dwarf, Salmon Pink 1 Nasturtium, Dwarf, cæruleum roseum 1 Silene, Double Salmon Pink 1 Silene, Double Delicate Pink 1 Silene, Bonetti 1 Silene, Pseudo-Atocion 1 Statice spicata 1 Viscaria, Delicate Pink 1 Cornflower, Victoria, Dwarf rose 3/4 Godetia, Dwarf Pink 3/4 Godetia, Satin-rose 3/4 Abronia umbellata 1/2 Candytuft, Dwarf Pink 1/2 Saponaria calabrica 1/2 Silene, Double Dwarf Delicate Pink 1/3 Silene, Double Dwarf Brilliant Rose 1/3 Silene, Bonetti, Dwarf Pink 1/3 Leptosiphon roseus 1/4 CRIMSON AND SCARLET SHADES, including Carmine and Ruby. TALL. Coreopsis atrosanguinea 3 Helichrysum, Fireball 3 Poppy, Giant Double, Scarlet 3 Polygonum, Ruby Gem 2-1/2 Malope, Red 2 Nasturtium, Tall, Improved Lucifer Cl.
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PUBLIC-DOMAIN BOOK The Culture of Vegetables and Flowers From Seeds and Roots Sutton & Sons Ltd.primary
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