THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS TEXT

coolness alike tend to delay the growth of foliage until roots are formed. Therefore, if the cultivator resolves to have the plants in view from the commencement, he must place them in a low and uniform temperature. The water should always be pure and bright, although it must not quite touch the bulb, or the latter will rot. Wires to support the flowers are necessary, and those which are manufactured expressly for the purpose are both neat and effective. A rather low temperature, and free access of pure air, should be regarded as necessary conditions of health in all stages of growth. Hence it will be obvious that a mantelpiece, with its fluctuations of heat and cold, is a most unsuitable position for the glasses. We should like to add, that notwithstanding the high qualities of the Hyacinth, it is quite a cottager’s flower. For pot culture the Hyacinth is a grand subject. Prepare the pots carefully as to drainage, and fill them with a light, rich, porous compost. Remove a little soil from the central surface, and into this hollow lightly press the bulb, and press the soil somewhat firmly round it, leaving about half the bulb visible. If too much power is employed, the soil will be so compact that when the roots begin to grow, instead of penetrating, they will lift the bulb out of its proper position. There is always some risk of this, and it accounts for the practice of heaping over the pots a considerable weight of ashes. Of course this covering serves a second purpose in checking leaf-growth until the roots are established. Any cool and safe position will answer for storing the pots at this stage. For the earliest supply of flowers select single varieties, as these naturally come into bloom somewhat in advance of the doubles. When the tops begin to grow, remove the pots to a greenhouse or frame, and subdue the light for a brief period until the natural colour is gained. Thence transfer to the forcing-pit as requirements demand; and they will need a week or ten days to prepare them for use. It is easy to secure a continuous supply of Hyacinths from Christmas onwards by forcing successive batches of roots until the final display will come into flower without artificial assistance. To augment the beauty of the flowers employ as little heat as may be necessary, and defer the finishing temperature until the latest moment possible. For general decorative purposes, small pots will be found extremely convenient when a brilliant display is wanted in a limited compass; good specimens can be grown in the 48-size, but for exhibition the 32-size must be resorted to. Neither in pots nor in glasses should the bulbs be allowed to send up leaves from between the outer scales; these rob the central growth, and they should be carefully removed with a sharp knife. Hyacinths, Italian and Roman, should be potted in successive batches to provide a continuous supply. When the roots are formed the pots may be removed to a pit or frame, and to the forcing temperature as the buds show. If they have been brought on gradually, a very few days in a warm pit or house will throw them into bloom. It is a source of astonishment to us that these flowers are not more extensively grown in private gardens. Immense numbers are annually consigned to the London markets, and find a ready sale for bouquets and table decoration. Of course these Hyacinths will not bear comparison with the splendid named varieties which come later, but the Italian and Roman classes are ready at a time when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the same class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to ornamental contrivances. Iris.—The tuberous varieties are all perfectly hardy, and may be planted at any time from August to December. Put into light soil three inches deep and nine inches apart they will give no trouble, except to lift and divide them every second or third season. Ixia.—Babianas, Ixias, and Sparaxis may all be treated in precisely the same manner. In sheltered districts in the Southern counties they can be grown in the open ground; but otherwise the culture must be in pots under the shelter of a frame or greenhouse. A 48-sized pot will hold four or five bulbs, and they will thrive in any soil which contains a large proportion of sand. In spring they may be transferred to a sandy border, or they can be kept in pots for a couple of years when well managed. Jonquil.—The treatment recommended for Narcissus will suit this highly perfumed flower, both for forcing and in the open ground. Narcissus.—It is undesirable to hold these bulbs in a dry condition longer than is necessary, and those intended for pot culture should be got in promptly. A low temperature must be relied on for keeping back such as are intended to flower late. The Double Roman and the Paper White naturally come into bloom in advance of other sorts, and these should be selected for the earliest display. Give them a rich porous soil, and pot them rather firmly, but not so firmly as to render it impossible for the roots to penetrate, or the bulb will be raised above the soil. Place them in a cool spot, covered with suitable material to keep the bulbs in their places, and to prevent the foliage from starting prematurely. When top-growth commences, the pots must go into some house or frame where they can progress slowly until the moment arrives for forcing them. If the buds just show, about a week in a bottom heat of 65° will suffice to bring them to perfection. A succession can be brought forward at intervals by the same means, until the final lot will flower without artificial aid. And for the comfort of those who do not possess heating apparatus, we may add that the flowers grown naturally will probably be finer than those which have been forced. Narcissus may also be grown in glasses in the manner recommended for Hyacinths, or in bowls and other suitable receptacles filled with moss-fibre. In the open ground Narcissus should be planted in quantity, especially in spots where it appears to be naturally at home, and one of the most charming effects is obtained by putting them in the rough grass adjoining shrubbery borders. Instead of cutting the grass, it must be allowed to throw up flower-heads, and this affords the bulbs time to mature in readiness for the following season. The many forms of Double and Single Daffodil are effective border flowers, and the numerous varieties of Narcissus should be grown in clumps and patches in every spot which is suitable and vacant. In the reserve border of many gardens large numbers of Pheasant’s Eye and other Narcissus are planted to supply flowers for cutting. They are peculiarly valuable for the purpose, and if cut when scarcely ready they will develop in water, and last for many days. In planting, be guided as to distance by the size of the bulb, allowing four or five inches between small sorts, and six to nine inches for large varieties; depth, six to nine inches. Oxalis.—Except in a few sheltered districts, it will be necessary to cultivate this exceedingly pretty flower in frames, or in a sunny, airy greenhouse. It may also be forced in the stove with success. Put several bulbs in a pot, and give them a light soil with plenty of sand in it. Snowdrop.—It does not improve the roots of this exquisite little favourite to keep them out of the ground, and they should, if possible, be planted early. Sparaxis needs the same treatment as advised for the Ixia. Sweet Pea.—Exhibitors of Sweet Peas and those who endeavour to secure the finest sprays for decorative purposes, commence the preparation of the ground during the present month and incur whatever expense may be necessary to insure a deep bed of rich friable loam in which the roots can ramify freely. It is also the practice to sow seeds about the middle of September in order to provide sturdy well-rooted plants in readiness for transfer to the prepared plots in early spring. Either pots or boxes may be used, and a frame is sufficient to bring the seedlings safely through the winter. The method is dealt with in detail on page 305. From mid-September to the end of October, according to the locality, is an excellent time for sowing Sweet Peas outdoors where the soil is light and the situation fairly warm. Plants from autumn-sown seed are generally more robust and produce finer flowers than those raised from seed sown in the open in spring. Tropæolum tuberosum.—In potting the tuberous varieties, insure efficient drainage, and use a compost of rich light loam mixed with sand. The foliage will trail over the sides of wire baskets with graceful effect, but it may be trained around balloon-shaped wires specially made for these flowers. The bulbs remain dormant all through the winter, and may be started at any time from September to March. Tulip.—The early class of Tulips is of great value for forcing because of their brilliant colours and elegant forms. They take kindly to a high temperature, but forcing should not be commenced too early, nor should the heat be allowed to exceed 65° at the finish. Plunging is the most satisfactory method. Several bulbs may be put into one pot, but it is more convenient to grow them singly, so that flowers in exactly the same stage of development may be selected for use at one time. A continuous supply may be secured by potting batches at short intervals. When in bloom the roots can be washed free from soil for placing in vases. Decayed turf, with decomposed cow-manure and a proportion of sand, make an excellent potting soil for Tulips, and it will be all the more suitable if laid up in a heap for twelve months after being mixed. OCTOBER Anemone.—The tuberous-rooted Anemones may be planted in the open at any time from September to March, and from successive plantings a continuous display will be obtained from February until far into spring. For the choice named varieties it is customary for specialists to make elaborate preparations, into which we need not enter here. Splendid flowers can be grown in clumps and beds in ordinary gardens by deep digging, and the employment of a liberal dressing of decayed cow-manure. Plant the roots from four to six inches apart, and at a uniform depth of about three inches. In a heavy, retentive soil it is not advisable to risk a collection of named Anemones until January, unless a deep layer of light compost can be placed in the drills where the roots are to be planted. Annuals, Hardy.—On light soils it will be safe to transplant these now; but on heavy land the risk is too great, and we advise waiting until February or March. Lift the plants with as much soil attached to the roots as possible. Crocus.—Several flowers bloom in advance of, or as early as, the Crocus; but no other bulb of its own period can compare with it for brightness and effective colouring. Plant during this month and November, in groups and patterns wherever there is a vacant plot and bulbs can be found to fill it. Put them in at a uniform depth of about three inches. Drills are easy to draw, and are better for the bulbs than the objectionable plan of dibbling. Cyclamen seed may be sown again this month. If properly grown, seedlings raised now will bloom splendidly next autumn. Ferraria.—See Tigridia, page 379. Gladiolus.—By the end of the month lift roots which have flowered, even if the stems are still green. Label them, and hang in an airy place to dry. A little later remove the foliage with a sharp knife. Then lay out the roots for about a fortnight, and when ready store them in paper bags or boxes placed on a dry shelf, secure from vermin. Hollyhock.—In favoured districts and in light soil it will be safe to winter this plant in the open ground with merely the protection of a little dry litter. But in damp adhesive land it is perilous, and a cold frame will afford the requisite protection until May returns. Hyacinth.—Considering the magnificent appearance of this flower, its culture is most simple. Any fairly good garden soil which is not too damp in winter will grow it; and the bulbs may be planted in clumps or beds in any design or arrangement of colour that taste may dictate. At six inches apart there will be a brilliant display, but the distance is quite optional. The crowns of the bulbs should not be less than four or more than six inches below the surface; the greater depth will slightly retard the flowering. When planted they will give no more trouble until the time arrives for lifting them to make room for other occupants. Hyacinth, Feather, is an exceedingly beautiful border flower during May and early in June. The stems are from nine to fifteen inches high, and carry flowers whose petals are cut into slender filaments. It will grow in pots and in the open, in any soil which suits Hyacinths. Plant a good number in each group. Hyacinth, Grape.—An interesting dark blue flower, which should be freely grown in mixed borders to bloom in April. Singly it is useless; plant good-sized clumps in soil which answers for bulbs. Hyacinths, Miniature, are the delight of children, in whose honour many of the varieties are named. Except for their diminutive size, they are in all respects equal to their larger relations. The culture in pots, glasses, and beds is similar to that advised for the full-sized roots, save that the planting in open ground need not be quite so deep, three inches of soil over the crowns being sufficient. Hyacinths, Italian and Roman.—Uncover the pots containing the earliest planting, and at first place them in a dimly lighted position. The application of heat will depend on the time the flowers are wanted; but when the plants are forward enough, plunge them in a temperature of 65°, and in about a week they will be ready for use. Lachenalias rarely attain the proportions they are capable of for want of water in their growing state. They thrive in peat, and may be forced into flower at almost any season. Except in warm and sheltered gardens, they must not be planted in the open. Yet only sufficient warmth is required to keep frost at bay. Leucojums are perfectly hardy bulbs which will grow in any garden. The flowers resemble Snowdrops, but are much larger. Plant in dense groups. Narcissus.—From the natural characteristics of this bulb it is desirable that it should be planted early. Sometimes, however, it is impossible, consistently with other arrangements, either to pot or to plant Narcissus before October or November. In such cases it is consoling to know that from sound, well-ripened roots good flowers may be confidently anticipated, even from late plantings. Ornithogalum.—In the open this bulb must have some protection during winter, to save its large fleshy roots from injury by frost. A heap of light manure or dry litter will answer the purpose. Plant six inches deep. Scilla præcox can be grown almost anywhere, and in a light rich soil it blooms profusely. The bulbs will safely pass the severest winter in the open ground, and flower in February or March. The exact time depends on the climate and position. In sheltered spots and mild districts they will naturally bloom earlier than in bleak and exposed quarters. Plant in masses or lines, and the bulbs may remain undisturbed for years. A dense row makes an exceedingly beautiful background to Snowdrops. The other Scillas are equally hardy and valuable, and they all flower with great freedom. Triteleia uniflora is a handsome white-flowering hardy bulb, which will grow freely in any garden. It is adapted for the company of any of the dwarf-growing bulbs, and may be employed in either lines or clumps. Plant the roots three inches apart and two inches deep. Tuberoses are valued for the purity of their white flowers, and for the agreeable perfume they exhale. The bulbs may be potted singly or three in a pot. They thrive in a compost of loam and leaf-mould, and need a bottom heat ranging between 60° and 70° to bring them to perfection. The African bulbs are generally ready in September and the importations from America arrive in December and January. Tulips may be planted in the open ground at any time during the month. We shall say nothing as to the arrangement of colours, nor as to the form of the beds, for both points admit of endless diversity. The mixed border may be enlivened with groups of many varieties, and if they are judiciously selected, there will be a succession of flowers for several weeks in the spring. Wallflower.—After the summer bedding plants are cleared, Wallflowers may be usefully employed to fill beds with green foliage all the winter. They will flower freely in spring, when their colour and fragrance will be especially welcome, and they can be removed in time to make way for a different display for the summer. Winter Aconite is not dismayed by frost or snow, but will put forth its golden blossoms in the dreariest days of February, and after the flowers have passed away the foliage will remain as an ornament. To put in single roots is useless; it is far better to plant a few large patches than to fritter away the flower in a number of small and inconspicuous groups. NOVEMBER Cyclamen.—Where there is a large demand for this flower, another sowing may be made this month, unless it was done in October. With so important a subject it is not wise to depend on a single venture. The seedlings will afford a valuable succession to those started in August. Gladiolus.—The soil which answers best for the autumn-flowering section is a medium friable loam, with a cool rich subsoil. A light loam can be made suitable by trenching, and putting a thick layer of cow-manure at the bottom of each trench. And a heavy soil may be reduced to the proper condition by the free admixture of light loam or sand. Autumn is the proper time for doing this work, and the ground should be left rough, so that it may benefit by winter frosts. Wireworms are deadly enemies to the Gladiolus corms, and an effort should be made to clear them out. Happily, they will flock to traps such as Potatoes and Rape cake, and their destruction is a mere question of daily attention. Planting must, of course, be deferred until spring. Hyacinthus candicans is generally grown in the company of other flowers which attain to something like its own imposing proportions. In good soil the spikes grow three feet high. It may be planted from this time until March. Lilies are an ornament to the cottage garden, and they grace the grandest conservatory. Many of the most superb varieties, including the king of all the race, _L. auratum_, can be magnificently flowered in the open border; and we have seen fine specimens of the _Lancifolium_ varieties grown in pots without the aid of pit or frame. It is therefore obvious that there are no difficulties in the culture of Lilies. In borders the best soil for them is a deep, rich, moist loam. Peat and leaf-mould also answer; but a stiff clay will not do unless it has been cultivated and mixed with lighter stuff. Plant the roots at least six inches deep, at any time they are in a dormant state, or can be obtained in pots. Their position in the border should be clearly marked, or the roots may sustain injury when the soil is forked over. The noble appearance of _L. auratum_ will always command for it a prominent place in the conservatory or greenhouse. It will grow in sandy peat, or in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand. The bulb should be put into a small pot at first. When this is full of roots, transfer to a larger size, and shift occasionally until the flower-buds appear, when re-potting must cease. A cool house will bring the plant to perfection, although it will bear a high temperature if wanted early. During growth water must be given freely and be gradually reduced when the flowering season is over. The _Lancifolium_ varieties require the same treatment, but it is usual