THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS FROM SEEDS AND ROOTS
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be well to level down and point in, half a spade deep, a thin coat of decayed manure to make a nice kindly seed-bed. Where soil known to be unsuitable, such as a damp clay or pasty lo
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and the surface raked clean. Give the beds a liberal dressing of half-decayed manure, and carefully touch up the sides to make them neat and tidy. It is usual at the same time to dig a
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ed and this assists the setting of flowers in dry weather. A mulch of decayed manure will prove of great benefit to the plants and will prolong the period of bearing. In some gardens
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the hoe during summer, and as autumn approaches regularly remove all decaying leaves. Those who have been accustomed to treat Sprouts and Kales on one uniform rough plan will be surpr
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he plants stand for some time, the outer leaves begin to rot, and the decay proceeds inwards, to the deterioration or destruction of the plant. A clean and effective process is to cove
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soil, which will be sufficient provided it consists in great part of decayed manure, kept always moist enough for healthy growing. The next step will be to plant them out about six in
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hopped over with turfy loam from an old pasture. If the soil is poor, decayed manure should be added, but the best possible Melons may be grown in a fertile loam without the aid of man
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rotection to the roots of the plants, and a light mulch of thoroughly decayed manure will prove very helpful in a dry season. In the event of prolonged dry weather, however, measures m
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all piece off each of these at the time of planting to facilitate the decay of the tuber when it has accomplished its work, for having nourished the first growth the sooner it disappea
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be exercised to bestow the fluid on the Sea Kale only. As the leaves decay in autumn they should be removed, and the ground kept thoroughly clean. When finally cleaned up, let it be f
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af-mould, or a mixture of material turned out of pots, with some good decayed manure. In this the young plants will root freely and quickly without becoming gross, for they should atta
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for pots or borders. As the plants advance, leaf-mould or thoroughly decayed manure in moderate quantity should be supplied; but, instead of incorporating it with the loam in the usua
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he absence of leaf-mould, use two parts of loam and one of thoroughly decayed manure with a few pieces of charcoal added. Sweetness is not absolutely necessary for success, but neverth
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y their seeds and mar the order of the garden. Dig them in, and their decay will nourish the next crop. If early sowing is practised, and the earliest possible produce of everything is
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of struggling against it. Where plants are occasionally lost through decay at the collar, small pieces of charcoal laid in a circle round the stem have proved a simple and effectual a
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iant vines may every year be seen trailing over the sides of heaps of decayed turf or manure. All forward vegetables are prized, and Marrows are no exception to the rule. An early supp
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hought in one particular garden. The short and easy way with all soft decaying rubbish is to put it at the bottom of a trench when preparing land for planting. There it ceases to be a
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n to the removal of the lower leaves of Cabbages, where they lie half decayed upon the ground. The heavy rains of this month interfere in a material degree with outdoor work, and are
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consequence of long cultivation. Natural loams are the result of the decay and admixture of various earths, and they are mostly of a mellow texture, easily worked and highly productiv
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value to this crop. BEET.—For a fine crop a moderate amount of well-decayed dung applied in autumn is almost essential, as well as 3 to 4 lb. of superphosphate per square rod in spri
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d be rich and fine. Good loam, improved by the addition of thoroughly decayed manure and leaf-mould, with sufficient sand to render the texture porous, will suit all kinds of annuals t
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ch to the middle of April prepare a compost consisting principally of decayed leaf-mould, with sufficient loam to render it firm, and sharp sand to secure drainage. Either pots or seed
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ants suffer for the lack of water. ESCHSCHOLTZIA Hardy perennial A decade or so ago the predominant colours found in Eschscholtzias were yellow and orange, but in recent years a num
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t and frost. After about six weeks, each bulb should be examined, and decayed specimens removed. If any of them have commenced growing, pot them and place in a pit or greenhouse. In Ma
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the earth to a depth of eighteen inches or two feet, and fill in with decayed manure and loam, chiefly the former. Upon this put out the plant, or sow seed as may be determined. If thi
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the trench with a fork or pickaxe, replace with an equal quantity of decayed manure, leaves, old potting soil or any other suitable stuff that may be on hand. Finally return the top s
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e for it. As the flowering time approaches mulch the ground with well-decayed manure. The plants must be carefully staked and tied out. It is not merely necessary to secure the main s
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oil. Poor land should also be enriched by incorporating a dressing of decayed manure as the work proceeds. Subsequently one or two light surface forkings will help to make the bed mell
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and rise slowly. When the buds show, a top-dressing of fresh loam and decayed manure will be helpful, and to allow for this the soil must be two inches from the tops of the pots when t
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e them. If the soil needs enriching, there is no better material than decayed cow-manure, which may be incorporated as the work goes on, or it can be applied as a top-dressing. Those w
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ce, but there is no difficulty in obtaining it. A constant supply of decayed leaf-mould may possibly be arranged on the spot by sweeping up leaves and making a fresh heap every fall.
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ed. Between the plants there must be a clear space or the leaves will decay through contact. While growing, a moist atmosphere, with a temperature of 60° or 65 °, will suit them; but i
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he bed a heavy soil in an open situation, and dress it liberally with decayed manure. Give the land a deep digging, and lay it up rough, that it may be benefited by frosts. In January
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l often prove effectual. Turfy loam three parts, leaf-mould one part, decayed cow-manure one part, with an addition of sharp sand, make a first-class compost. Sow in well-drained 48-si
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y needful to dig it well, and to incorporate a sufficient quantity of decayed manure. If disposed to incur a little extra trouble to give the plants a start, take out some soil with a
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t will hold five or six bulbs, and the soil should consist largely of decaying vegetable fibre, such as peat, leaf-mould, and turfy loam. The pots can be stood in any sheltered positio
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in bloom the roots can be washed free from soil for placing in vases. Decayed turf, with decomposed cow-manure and a proportion of sand, make an excellent potting soil for Tulips, and
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varieties. To do them justice the land must be liberally dressed with decayed manure, and the longer the bed can be made ready before planting, the better will it answer. Put the roots
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ble in the discoloration of the leaves which turn yellow and begin to decay. Several generations of the insect, the scientific name of which is _Phorbia cepetorum_, appear in the cours
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ots, multiplies rapidly in the tissues, and produces malformation and decay. After the disease has made some progress insect agency frequently augments the mischief, so that on cutting
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the disease is so far advanced that the outer leaf-stalks have become decayed, the entire plant should be removed and destroyed. It is of the utmost importance that every particle of d
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greatly accelerate decay. No remedy is known, but we advise the purchase of the soundest and best bulbs. Good drainage and sufficient
would like a peculiarly elegant and delicious dish of Spinach, pinch
off a sufficiency of the tops of the advancing shoots, and cook them
Spinach fashion. If properly done, it is one of the finest vegetables
ever eaten. As pinching off the tender tops of the shoots lessens the
fruitfulness of the vines, we only recommend this procedure where there
is a large plantation.
Gourds may be trained to trellises, fences, and walls. In all such
cases, a good bed should be prepared of any light, rich loam, and it
will be none the less effective if made on a mound of fermenting
material.
HERBS
With certain exceptions, the growing of Sweet Herbs from seeds is
altogether advantageous. The plants come perfectly true, and are so
vigorous that it is easier to raise them from seed than to secure a
succession from slips or cuttings. To meet a large and continuous
demand in the kitchen there must be a proportionate plantation in the
border; but in gardens of medium size we do not advocate the culture of
Herbs on an extensive scale, unless there be a special object in view.
A moderate number of Herbs will meet the necessities of most families.
Still it is a fact that the tendency is always in the direction of
increased variety, and gardeners are called on to provide frequent
changes of flavouring Herbs, some of which are quite as highly prized
in salads as they are for culinary purposes.
In the smallest gardens, Mint, Parsley, Sage, and both Common and Lemon
Thyme, must find a place. In gardens which have any pretension to
supply the needs of a luxurious table there should be added Basil,
Chives, Pot and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel,
Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens
generally contain a plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties
which follow.
Several of the most popular Herbs, such as Chives, Mint, Tarragon, and
Lemon Thyme, are not grown from seed—at all events, those who venture
on the pastime might employ their labour to greater advantage. But
others, such as Basil, Borage, Chervil, Fennel, Marjoram, Marigold,
Parsley, Savory, &c., are grown from seed, in some cases of necessity,
and in others because it is the quicker and easier way of securing a
crop.
Angelica and Mint flourish in moist soil, but the majority of aromatic
Herbs succeed on land that is dry, poor, and somewhat sandy, rather
than in the rich borders that usually prevail in the Kitchen Garden.
Happily they are not very particular, but sunshine they must have for
the secretion of their fragrant essences. A narrow border marked off in
drills, and, if possible, sloping to the south, will answer admirably.
Thin the plants in good time, and the thinnings of those wanted in
quantity may, if necessary, be transplanted. The soil must be kept free
from weeds, and every variety be allowed sufficient space for full
development.
Angelica (_A. Archangelica_).—A native biennial which is not easily
raised from seed treated in the ordinary way. Germination is always
capricious, slow and irregular. It may be several months before the
plants begin to appear. The best results are obtained by placing the
seed in sand, kept moist for several weeks before sowing. The leaves
and stalks are sometimes blanched and eaten as Celery, and are also
boiled with meat and fish. Occasionally the tender stems and midribs
are coated with candied sugar as a confection. Angelica was formerly
supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, but its reputation as a
remedy for poison and as a preventive of infectious diseases is not
supported by the disciples of modern chemistry. The seeds are still
used for flavouring liqueurs.
Balm (_Melissa officinalis_).—A perennial herb, which can be propagated
by cuttings or grown as an annual from seed. An essential oil is
distilled from the leaves, but they are chiefly used, when dried, for
making tea for invalids, especially those suffering from fever. The
plant has also been used for making Balm wine. Sow in May.
Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the
same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April.
Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally obtained
from India, and one of the most popular of the flavouring Herbs. Seeds
should be sown in February or March in gentle heat. When large enough
the seedlings must be pricked off into boxes until they are ready for
transferring to a rich border in June, or seed may be sown in the open
ground during April and May. A space of eight inches between the plants
in the rows will suffice, but the rows should be at least a foot apart.
The flower-stems must be cut as they rise, and be tied in bundles for
winter use. This practice will prolong the life of the plant until late
in the season. Many gardeners lift plants in September, pot them, and
so maintain a supply of fresh green leaves until winter is far
advanced.
Borage (_Borago officinalis_).—A native hardy plant, which thrives in
poor, stony soil. The flowers are used for flavouring purposes,
especially for claret-cup. Borage is also a great favourite with
bee-masters. Sow in April or May in good loam, and thin to fifteen or
eighteen inches apart. The rows should be from eighteen to twenty-four
inches asunder, for the plant is tall, and strong in growth.
Chervil, Curled (_Anthriscus Cerefolium_).—Used for salads, garnishing,
and culinary purposes. To secure a regular supply of leaves small
successional sowings are necessary from spring to autumn, and frequent
watering in dry weather will prevent the plants from being spoiled by
throwing up seed-stems. For winter use, sow in boxes kept in a warm
temperature.
Chives (_Allium Schænoprasum_).—A mild substitute for the Onion in
salads and soups. The plant is a native of Britain, and will grow
freely in any ordinary garden soil. Propagation is effected by division
of the roots either in spring or autumn. The clumps should be cut
regularly in succession whether wanted or not, with the object of
maintaining a continuous growth of young and tender shoots. At
intervals of four years it will be necessary to lift, divide, and
replant the roots on fresh ground.
Fennel (_Fæniculum officinale_).—A hardy perennial which has been
naturalised in some parts of this country. It is grown in gardens to
furnish a supply of its elegant feathery foliage for garnishing and for
use in fish sauces. Occasionally the stems are blanched and eaten in
the same way as Celery, and in the natural state they are boiled as a
vegetable. The seeds are also employed for flavouring. Sow in drills in
April and May, and thin the plants to fifteen inches apart.
Finocchio, or Florence Fennel (_Fæniculum dulce_, DC).—A sweet-tasting
herb, very largely grown in the south of Italy, where it is eaten both
in the natural state and when boiled. Sow in the open ground during
spring or early summer, in rows about eighteen inches apart, and thin
or transplant to six or nine inches. When the base begins to swell,
earth up the plants in the same manner as Celery. If transplanted,
pinch off the tips of the roots.
Horehound (_Marrubium vulgare_).—A well-known medicinal herb, from
which an extract is obtained for subduing irritating coughs. Sow in
April or May, and thin the plants until they stand fifteen inches
apart.
Hyssop (_Hyssopus officinalis_).—The leaves and young shoots are used
as a pot-herb, and the leafy tops and flowers, when dried, are employed
for medicinal purposes. Hyssop is also occasionally used as an edging
plant. A dry soil and warm situation suit it. Sow in April, and thin
the plants to a foot apart in the rows.
Lavender (_Lavandula_).—Universally known and valued for its perfume.
Although the plant is generally propagated from cuttings, it can easily
be grown from seed sown in April or May. The plants attain a height of
one or two feet, and the stems should not be cut until the flowers are
expanded.
Marigold, Pot (_Calendula officinalis_).—Employed both in flower and
vegetable gardens: in the former as a bedding annual, and in the latter
that the flowers may be dried and stored for colouring and flavouring
soups; also for distilling. In April or May sow the seed in drills one
foot apart, and thin the plants to the same distance in the rows.
Marjoram, Pot (_Origanum Onites_).—One of the most familiar Herbs in
British gardens. The aromatic leaves are used both green and when dried
for flavouring. Strictly the plant is a perennial, but it is readily
grown as an annual. Sow in February or March in gentle heat, and in the
open ground a month later. The plants should be allowed a space often
inches or a foot each way.
Marjoram, Sweet Knotted (_Origanum Majorana_).—This plant is used for
culinary purposes in the same way as the Pot Marjoram, and it is also
regarded as a tonic and stomachic. The most satisfactory mode of
cultivation is that of a half-hardy annual. Sow in March or April and
allow each plant a square foot of ground.
Mint (_Mentha viridis_).—Known also as Spearmint. It must be grown from
divisions. Between the delicacy of fresh young green leaves and those
which have been dried with the utmost care there is so wide a
difference that the practice of forcing from November to May is fully
justified. This is easily accomplished by packing roots in a box and
keeping them moist in a temperature of 60°. Where this is impossible,
stems must be cut, bunched, and hung in a cool store for use during
winter and spring. Mint grows vigorously in damp soil, and the bed
should have occasional attention, to prevent plants from extending
beyond their proper boundary. To secure young and luxuriant growth a
fresh plantation should be made annually in February or March. If
allowed to occupy the same plot of land year after year the leaves
become small and the stems wiry.
Parsley (_Carum Petroselinum_) will teach those who have eyes exactly
how it should be grown. There will appear here and there in a garden
stray or rogue Parsley plants. No matter how regularly the hoeing and
weeding may be done, a stray Parsley plant will occasionally appear
alone, perhaps in the midst of Lettuces, or Cauliflowers, or Onions.
When these rogues escape destruction they become superb plants, and the
gardener sometimes leaves them to enjoy the conditions they have
selected, and in which they evidently prosper. The lesson for the
cultivator is, that Parsley should have plenty of room from the very
first; and this lesson, we feel bound to say, cannot be too often
enforced upon young gardeners, for they are apt to sow Parsley far more
thickly than is wise, and to be injuriously slow and timid in thinning
the crop when the plants are crowding one another.
Parsley, like many other good things, will grow almost anywhere and
anyhow, but to make a handsome crop a deep, rich, moist soil is
required. It attains to fine quality on a well-tilled clay, but the
kindly loam that suits almost every vegetable is adapted to produce
perfect Parsley, and every good garden should show a handsome sample,
for beauty is the first required qualification. To keep the house
fairly well supplied sowings should be made in February, May, and July.
The first of these will be in gentle heat. When large enough prick out
the plants into boxes, or on to a mild hot-bed, and transfer to the
open ground at the end of April, allowing each plant a space of one
foot each way. In the open, it is best to sow in lines one foot apart,
and thin out first to three inches, and finally to six inches, the
strongest of the seedlings being put out one foot apart. By following
this plan sufficient supplies for a small household may be obtained
from one annual sowing made in April. It should not be overlooked that
Parsley is indispensable to exhibitors of vegetables, especially as a
groundwork for collections, and due allowance for such calls must be
made in fixing the number and extent of the sowings. When the plant
pushes for seed it becomes useless, and had best be got rid of; but by
planting at various times in different places a sufficiency may be
expected to go through a second season without bolting, after which it
will be necessary to root them out and consign them to the
rubbish-heap. Parsley is often grown as an edging, but it is only in
large gardens that this can be done advantageously, and then a very
handsome edging is secured. In small gardens it is best to sow on a bed
in lines one foot apart, and thin out first to three inches, and
finally to six inches, the strongest of the thinnings being planted a
foot apart, to last over as proposed above. When Parsley has stood some
time it becomes coarse, but the young growth may be renewed by cutting
over; this operation being also useful to defer the flowering, which is
surely hastened by leaving the plants alone. For the winter supply a
late plantation made in a sheltered spot will usually suffice, for the
plant is very hardy; but it may be expedient sometimes to put old
frames over a piece worth keeping, or to protect during hard weather
with dry litter. A few plants lifted into five-inch pots and placed in
a cool house will often tide over a difficult period. In gathering,
care should be taken to pick separately the young leaves that are
nearly full grown, and to take only one or two from each plant. It
costs no more time to fill a basket by taking a leaf or two here and
there from a whole row than to strip two or three plants, and the
difference in the end will be considerable as regards the total produce
and quality of the crop.
Pennyroyal (_Mentha Pulegium_) is a native perennial which must be
propagated by divisions, and this can be done either in spring or
autumn. The rows may be twelve or fifteen inches apart, but in the rows
the plants do well at a distance of eight inches. The taste for
Pennyroyal is by no means universal, but some persons like the tender
tops in culinary preparations. The belief in its supposed medicinal
virtues is slowly dying.
Purslane (_Portulaca oleracea_).—This annual plant thrives best in a
sunny position. Seed should be sown from mid-April onwards to insure a
succession of young leaves and shoots which may be cooked as a
vegetable or eaten raw as a salad. Space the rows nine inches apart and
thin the plants to a distance of six inches.
Rampion (_Campanula Rapunculus_).—Both leaves and roots are used in
winter salads; the roots are also boiled. If the seed be sown earlier
than the end of May the plants are liable to bolt. Choose a shady
situation where the soil is rich and light, and do not stint water. The
rows need not exceed six inches apart, and four inches in the rows will
be a sufficient space between plants.
Rosemary (_Rosmarinus officinalis_).—A hardy evergreen shrub easily
grown from seed, the leaves of which are used for making Rosemary tea
for relieving headache. An essential oil is also obtained by
distillation. A dry, warm, sunny border suits the plant. Sow in April
and May.
Rue (_Ruta graveolens_).—A hardy evergreen shrub, chiefly cultivated
for its medicinal qualities. The leaves are acrid, and emit a pungent
odour when handled. The plant is shrubby, and as it attains a height of
two or three feet it occupies a considerable space. Sow in April.
Sage (_Salvia officinalis_).—Although Sage can be raised from seed with
a minimum of trouble, yet this is one of the few instances where it is
an advantage to propagate plants from a good stock. The difference will
be obvious to any gardener who will grow seedlings by the side of
propagated plants. Still, seedlings are often raised, and as annuals
the plants are quite satisfactory. Sow under glass in February and
March, and in open ground during April and May. Prick off the seedlings
into a nursery bed before transferring to final positions, in which
each plant should be allowed a space of fifteen inches.
Savory, Summer (_Satureia hortensis_).—An aromatic seasoning and
flavouring herb, which must be raised annually from seed. Sow early in
April in drills one foot apart, and thin the plants to six or eight
inches in the rows. Cut the stems when in full flower, and tie in
bunches for winter use.
Savory, Winter (_Satureia montana_).—A hardy dwarf evergreen which can
be propagated by cuttings; but it is more economically grown from seed
sown at the same time, and treated in the same manner, as Summer
Savory.
Sorrel (_Rumex scutalus_).—The large-leaved or French Sorrel is not
only served as a separate dish, but is mingled with Spinach, and is
also used as an ingredient in soups, sauces, and salads. Leaves of the
finest quality are obtainable from plants a year old, and when the crop
has been gathered the ground may with advantage be utilised for some
other purpose. Light soil in fairly good heart suits the plant. The
seed should be sown in March or early April, in shallow drills six or
eight inches apart, and the seedlings must be thinned early, leaving
three or four inches between them in the rows. To keep the bed free
from weeds is the only attention necessary, unless an occasional
watering becomes imperative. In September the entire crop may be
transferred to fresh ground, allowing eighteen inches between the
plants, or part may be drawn and the remainder left at that distance.
In the following spring the flower-stems will begin to rise, and if
these are allowed to develop they reduce the size of the leaves and
seriously impair their quality; hence the heads should be pinched out
as fast as they are presented.
Tarragon (_Artemisia Dracunculus_).—This aromatic herb is used for a
variety of purposes, but is most commonly employed for imparting its
powerful flavour to vinegar. The plant is a perennial, and must be
propagated by divisions in March or April, or by cuttings placed in
gentle heat in spring. Later in the year they will succeed under a
hand-glass in the open. Green leaves are preferable to those which have
been dried, and by a little management a succession of plants is easily
arranged. For winter use roots may be lifted in autumn and placed in
heat. Those who have no facilities for maintaining a supply of green
leaves rely on foliage cut in autumn and dried.
Thyme, Common (_Thymus vulgaris_).—An aromatic herb, well known in
every garden, and in constant demand for the house. Seedlings are
easily raised from a sowing in April, or the plant can be grown from
division of the roots in spring. Thyme makes a very effective edging,
and is frequently employed for this purpose on dry, well-kept borders.
Thyme, Lemon (_Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris_).—This plant cannot be grown
from seed; only by division of the roots in March or April. It is an
aromatic herb, generally regarded as indispensable in a well-ordered
garden.
Wormwood (_Artemisia Absinthium_).—An intensely bitter herb, used for
medicinal purposes. The plant is a hardy perennial, and is usually
propagated in spring by taking cuttings or dividing the roots.
HORSE-RADISH
Cochlearia Armoracia
This vegetable is highly prized as a condiment to roast beef, but as a
rule it is badly grown. The common practice is to consign it to some
neglected corner of the garden, where it struggles for existence, and
produces sticks which are almost worthless for the table. In the same
space a plentiful supply of large handsome sticks may be grown with as
little trouble as Carrots or Parsnips. Choose for the crop a piece of
good open ground, and in preparing it place a heavy dressing of rotten
manure quite at the bottom of each trench. Early in the year select
young straight roots from eight to twelve inches long, each having a
single crown, and plant them one foot apart each way. By the following
autumn these will become large, succulent sticks, which will put to
shame the ugly striplings grown under starving conditions. The roots
may be dug as required; but we do not advocate that method. It is
better practice to clear the whole bed at once, and store the produce
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