WOMAN'S INSTITUTE LIBRARY OF COOKERY. VOLUME 5: FRUIT AND FRUIT DESSERTS; CANNING AND DRYING; JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING AND PICKLING; CONFECTIONS; BEVERAGES; THE PLANNING OF MEALS TEXT

substance from the material containing it. They are usually very strong, so that only a little is needed to flavor a comparatively large quantity of food. Peppermint, wintergreen, and cinnamon are the oils that are used the most. 20. EXTRACTS are prepared by using alcohol to extract the flavoring substances from certain materials. The alcohol acts as a preservative, so that the finished extract nearly always contains a high percentage of this material. Vanilla and such flavorings as lemon and orange are examples of extracts that are usually made in this way. A few companies manufacture a product in which glycerine instead of alcohol is used as the preservative. Flavorings so prepared are in the form of a thick, sirupy substance rather than a liquid and are usually sold in a tube. 21. ARTIFICIAL FLAVORINGS.--Flavorings classified as artificial flavorings are of two kinds: those having for their basis substances extracted from coal tar and those prepared by various chemical combinations. They are also known as _synthetic flavors_. With regard to both healthfulness and taste, they are not so desirable as the natural flavorings. 22. ADULTERATION OF FLAVORINGS.--As it is a common practice to adulterate flavorings, every manufacturer of these materials is obliged to state on the label of each bottle or tube of flavoring just what its contents consist of. Therefore, when the purchase is made, the label should be carefully examined. Without doubt, vanilla is adulterated more often than any other flavoring, a pure extract of vanilla being seldom found. The beans from which the flavor is extracted are very expensive, so the Tonka bean and other cheaper flavoring substances are often resorted to in the making of this flavoring. However, when large amounts of such things are used, the price of the extract should be less than that charged for the pure extract of the vanilla bean. Many chefs and professional cooks overcome this difficulty by purchasing the vanilla beans and using them for flavoring purposes by soaking or cooking small pieces of them in the material that is to be flavored or grinding the bean in a mortar and using it in the ground form. COLORINGS 23. COLORINGS are used in the making of confections, candy in particular, for two purposes: to make them attractive and to indicate certain flavors. For instance, candies flavored with wintergreen are usually colored pink, while those containing peppermint are colored pale green or are left white. Strawberry and rose flavors are also colored pink; orange and lemon, their respective shades of yellow; violet, lavender; and pistachio and almond, green. 24. The substances used for coloring confections are of two general classes: _vegetable_ and _mineral_, or _chemical_. The vegetable colorings, like the natural flavorings, are considered to be the most healthful ones. Some of the chemical colorings are derivatives of coal tar, just as are the coal-tar flavorings. Cochineal, a red color extracted from the bodies of cochineal insects, is a coloring matter much used in the preparation of confections. These coloring materials may be purchased in several forms. The ones most commonly used come in the form of liquid or paste, but frequently colorings are to be had in powder or tablet form. 25. Discretion must always be observed in the use of colorings. Because of their concentration, they must be greatly diluted and used in only very small amounts. As is well known, pale colors in candies are always more attractive than deep ones. Then, too, when candies contain much color, most persons are likely to consider them harmful to eat. To get the best results, only a little coloring should be added at a time, and each amount added should be mixed in thoroughly. Then the danger of getting too much coloring will be avoided. It should be remembered, however, that if colored candies are kept for any length of time or are exposed to the light, they will fade to a certain extent; consequently, these may be colored a little more deeply than those which are to be used at once. ACIDS 26. To prevent the creaming or the crystallizing of such candy as taffy, an acid of some kind is generally used with the cane sugar in the making of this variety of confection. The acid, upon being boiled with the sugar, changes a part of the cane sugar to invert sugar, and as this does not crystallize, the candy will not become sugary. A similar effect is obtained by adding glucose in sufficient amounts; since it does not crystallize, the cane sugar is prevented from becoming sugary. 27. The acids most commonly used for this purpose are cream of tartar, acetic acid, vinegar, which has acetic acid for its basis, and lemon juice, which has citric acid for its basis. With each pound of sugar, it will be necessary to use 1/8 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 1 or 2 drops of acetic acid, or 1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice in order to prevent crystallization. Lemon juice and vinegar are much more likely to flavor the candy than are cream of tartar and acetic acid. Often, if a fine-grained creamy candy is desired, a small amount of one of these acids is used. Even in small quantities, they will prevent the coarse-grained crystallization that is the natural result of the cooking and stirring of the cane sugar when nothing is done to prevent it. FOOD MATERIALS 28. In addition to the ingredients already mentioned, there are a number of materials that may be used in the making of candy to provide food value and at the same time give variety and improve the flavor and appearance of the candy. Chief among these materials are coconut, cocoa, chocolate, nuts, candied and dried fruits, milk, cream, butter, etc. Their value in candy depends on their use, so it is well to understand their nature and the methods of using them. 29. COCONUT.--Either shredded or ground coconut is often used in candy to give it flavor or variety. Coconut for this purpose may be secured in a number of forms. A coconut itself may be purchased, cracked open to remove the flesh, and then prepared either by grating it or by grinding it. This will be found to be very delicious and preferable to any other kind. However, if it is not desired to prepare the coconut in the home, this material may be purchased shredded in boxes or in cans. That which comes in boxes is usually somewhat dry and is often found to be quite hard. The canned varieties remain soft, since the shredded coconut is mixed with the milk of the coconut, but these have the disadvantage of not keeping very well. Any coconut that becomes too dry for use may be softened by steaming it. 30. COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.--In the making of confections, cocoa and chocolate are used extensively for both flavoring and coating. Either of them may be used for flavoring purposes, but chocolate is always preferable, because it has a richer, deeper flavor than cocoa. Bitter chocolate should be used in preference to any kind of sweet chocolate. When it is to be cooked with candy for flavoring, it may be added to the other ingredients in pieces and allowed to melt during the cooking. It is often used without cooking, however, as when it is added to material that is to be used as centers for bonbons or opera creams. In such an event, it is first melted over steam or hot water and then worked into the candy. 31. When desired for coating, chocolate that is sweetened is usually employed, although many persons are fond of creams that have a bitter coating. Sometimes a bitter-sweet coating, that is, a slightly sweetened chocolate, is used, and for most purposes a coating of this kind is preferred. Such chocolate must usually be purchased from a store where confectioner's supplies are sold or from a candy-making establishment. Milk chocolate and very sweet coatings may also be purchased for coating, but the eating chocolate that is sold in bars will not produce satisfactory results, and so should never be used for coating purposes. 32. CANDIED AND DRIED FRUITS.--Many varieties of candied or crystallized fruits and flowers find a place in the making of confections. Sometimes they are used as an ingredient, while other times they are added to bonbons and chocolates merely for decorative purposes. Again, they are often used in boxes of fancy candies that are packed to sell at some special event or to give away. They are somewhat expensive to purchase, but if they are properly used they add such an appetizing touch and produce such gratifying and delightful results that the expenditure for them is well justified. Many of these may be prepared in the home with a certain degree of satisfaction. 33. The two candied fruits most frequently used are candied pineapple and candied cherries, but, in addition to these candied apricots, peaches, pears, limes, lemons, and oranges are often found in the market. Cherries preserved in maraschino wine and creme de menthe add attractive touches of color to candies and make delicious confections when coated with bonbon cream or chocolate. 34. Crystallized violets, rose petals, and mint leaves are used frequently in the preparation of confections. They are added merely for decoration and make very attractive candies. They can usually be purchased in confectionery stores. 35. Several varieties of dried fruits, chief among which are dates, figs, and raisins, are useful in the making of confections. They have the advantage of not requiring complicated manipulation, and at the same time they lend themselves to a number of delicious confections that may often be eaten by persons who cannot eat anything so rich as candy. Children can usually partake of confections made of these fruits without harm when candy would disagree with them. 36. NUTS.--Nuts of various kinds probably have more extensive use in the making of confections than any other class of foods. In fact, there are few kinds of candy that cannot be much improved by the addition of nuts. Halves of such nuts as English walnuts and pecans are frequently used by being pressed into the outside of bonbons and chocolates. Then, too, pieces of various kinds of nuts are used with a filling for coated candies. Such nuts as almonds, filberts, walnuts, and peanuts are often covered singly or in clusters with the same chocolate coating that is used to coat creams. Pistachio nuts, which are light green in color, are either chopped or used in halves on chocolates or bonbons. 37. When nuts are not desired whole for confections, they should never be put through a food chopper; rather, they should always be broken up by being cut or chopped with a knife. The simplest way in which to cut them is to spread the nuts in a single layer on a board and then with a sharp knife press down on them, having one hand on the back of the knife near the point and the other on the handle and rocking the knife back and forth across the nuts until they are as fine as desired. They may also be chopped in a chopping bowl or cut one at a time with a small, sharp knife. 38. Salted nuts, while not a confection in the true sense of the word, are closely related to confections, since they are used for the same purpose. For this reason, it seems advisable to give the methods of preparing them in connection with the preparation of confections. 39. POP CORN.--An excellent confection and one that always appeals to children may be made from pop corn. This variety of Indian corn has small kernels with or without sharp points. To prepare it for confections; the kernels, or grains, are removed from the ears and then exposed to heat in a corn popper or a covered pan. When they become sufficiently hot, they pop, or explode; that is, they rupture their yellow coat and turn inside out. The popped kernels may be eaten in this form by merely being salted or they may be treated with various sugar preparations in the ways explained later. 40. MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER.--Milk is extensively used in the making of candy, both to obtain a certain flavor and to secure a particular consistency. Skim milk may be used for this purpose, but the richer the milk, the better will be the flavor of the finished candy. Cream, of course, makes the most delicious candy, but as it is usually expensive, it greatly increases the cost of the confection. Butter may be used with milk to obtain a result similar to that secured by the use of cream. If skim milk is used, butter should by all means be added, for it greatly improves the flavor of the candy. In any recipe requiring milk, condensed or evaporated milk may be substituted with very satisfactory results. These milks may be diluted as much as is desired. Besides providing flavor, milk, cream, and butter add food value to the confections in which they are used. Most of this is in the form of fat, a food substance that is not supplied by any other ingredients, except perhaps chocolate and nuts. They are therefore particularly valuable and should always be used properly in order that the most good may be derived from them. 41. The chief problem in the use of milk is to keep it from curding and, if curding takes place, to prevent the curds from settling and burning during the boiling. When maple sirup, molasses, or other substances that are liable to curdle milk are to be cooked with the milk, a little soda should be added or, if possible, the milk should be heated well before it is put in. When it can be done, the milk should be cooked with the sugar before the ingredients likely to make it curdle are added. In case the milk does curdle, the mixture should be treated at once, or the result will be very unsatisfactory. The best plan consists in beating the mixture rapidly with a rotary egg beater in order to break up the curds as fine as possible, and then stirring it frequently during the boiling to keep the milk from settling and burning. As this stirring is a disadvantage in the making of candy, every precaution should be taken to prevent the curding of the milk. EQUIPMENT FOR CONFECTION MAKING 42. The utensils for candy making are few in number and simple in nature. As with all of the more elaborate foods, the fancy candies require slightly more unusual equipment, and even for the more ordinary kinds it is possible to buy convenient utensils that will make results a little more certain. But, as illustrated in Fig. 1, which shows the general equipment for confection making, practically all the utensils required are to be found in every kitchen. [Illustration: FIG. 1] 43. To boil the confectionery ingredients, a saucepan or a kettle is required. This may be made of copper or aluminum or of any of the various types of enamelware that are used for cooking utensils. One important requirement is that the surface of the pan be perfectly smooth. A pan that has become rough from usage or an enamelware pan that is chipped should not be used for the boiling of candy. The size of the utensil to use depends on the kind and the amount of the mixture to be boiled. A sugar-and-water mixture does not require a pan much larger in size than is necessary to hold the mixture itself, for it does not expand much in boiling. However, a mixture containing milk, condensed milk, cream, or butter should be cooked in a pan much larger than is needed for the same quantity of sugar and water, for such a mixture expands greatly and is liable to boil over. The necessary size of the pan to be used should be overestimated rather than underestimated. In the cooking of candy, just as in the cooking of other foods, the surface exposed to the heat and the depth of the material to be cooked affect the rapidity of cooking and evaporation. Consequently, if rapid evaporation and quick cooking are desired, a pan that is broad and comparatively shallow should be used, rather than one that is narrow and deep. 44. Measuring cups and spoons, a spoon for stirring, and a knife are, of course, essential in making confections. Then, too, it is often convenient to have a metal spatula and a wooden spoon or spatula. When these utensils are made of wood, they are light in weight and consequently excellent for stirring and beating. If egg whites are used in the preparation of a confection, an egg whip is needed. When candy must be poured into a pan to harden, any variety of pan may be used, but generally one having square corners is the most satisfactory. Then if the candy is cut into squares, none of it will be wasted in the cutting. 45. A thermometer that registers as high as 300 or 400 degrees Fahrenheit is a valuable asset in candy making when recipes giving the temperature to which the boiling must be carried are followed. A degree of accuracy can be obtained in this way by the inexperienced candy maker that cannot be matched with the usual tests. A small thermometer may be used, but the larger the thermometer, the easier will it be to determine the degrees on the mercury column. A new thermometer should always be tested to determine its accuracy. To do this, stand the thermometer in a small vessel of warm water, place the vessel over a flame, and allow the water to boil. If the thermometer does not register 212 degrees at boiling, the number of degrees more or less must be taken into account whenever the thermometer is used. For instance, if the thermometer registers 208 degrees at boiling and a recipe requires candy to be boiled to 238 degrees, it will be necessary to boil the candy to 234 degrees because the thermometer registers 4 degrees lower than it should. 46. The double boiler also finds a place in candy making. For melting chocolate, coating for bonbons, or fondant for reception wafers, a utensil of this kind is necessary. One that will answer the purpose very well may be improvised by putting a smaller pan into a larger one containing water. In using one of this kind, however, an effort should be made to have the pans exactly suited to each other in size; otherwise, the water in the lower pan will be liable to splash into the pan containing the material that is being heated. For the coating of bonbons, a coating fork, which is merely a thin wire twisted to make a handle with a loop at one end, is the most convenient utensil to use. However, this is not satisfactory for coating with chocolate, a different method being required for this material. 47. A number of candies, such as fondant, bonbon creams, and cream centers for chocolates, can be made much more satisfactorily if, after they are boiled, they are poured on a flat surface to cool. Such treatment permits them to cool as quickly as possible in a comparatively thin layer and thus helps to prevent crystallization. When only a small amount of candy is to be made, a large platter, which is the easiest utensil to procure, produces fairly good results. For larger amounts, as, for instance, when candy is being made to sell, some more convenient arrangement must be made. The most satisfactory thing that has been found for cooling purposes is a marble slab such as is found on an old-fashioned table or dresser. If one of these is not available, and the kitchen or pastry table has a vitrolite or other heavy top resembling porcelain, this will make a very good substitute. 48. To prevent the hot candy from running off after it is poured on a slab or any similar flat surface, a device of some kind should be provided. A very satisfactory one consists of four metal bars about 3/4 to 1 inch in width and thickness and as long as desired to fit the slab, but usually about 18 inches in length. They may be procured from a factory where steel and iron work is done, or they may be purchased from firms selling candy-making supplies. These bars are merely placed on top of the slab or flat surface with the corners carefully fitted and the candy is then poured in the space between the bars. When it is desired to pour out fudge, caramels, and similar candies to harden before